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  1. #1
    Active Member JoeUpchurch's Avatar
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    Unhappy 2012 RT LTD clicks but won't start

    Hi everybody,

    I've read every post I can find on this subject, pulled every relay, pulled and checked every fuse, tightened every battery terminal, unit shows 12.8 at the battery and the frunk accessory 12 V plug as well as the brunk accessory 12 V plug, The dealer installed a new battery on 5/28/14. My dealer isn't open till Tuesday, anyone got any more suggestions? I suspect bad cell in the battery with less than 300 miles traveled however, no bulging on it. I have a 12V battery load tester and will try that tomorrow.

    Appreciate any help - thanks,

    Joe

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoeUpchurch View Post
    Hi everybody,

    I've read every post I can find on this subject, pulled every relay, pulled and checked every fuse, tightened every battery terminal, unit shows 12.8 at the battery and the frunk accessory 12 V plug as well as the brunk accessory 12 V plug, The dealer installed a new battery on 5/28/14. My dealer isn't open till Tuesday, anyone got any more suggestions? I suspect bad cell in the battery with less than 300 miles traveled however, no bulging on it. I have a 12V battery load tester and will try that tomorrow.

    Appreciate any help - thanks,

    Joe
    kill switch? Left in gear?

  3. #3
    Active Member JoeUpchurch's Avatar
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    If it is the kill switch it would be broken - checked and double checked each try.

  4. #4
    Active Member JoeUpchurch's Avatar
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    Says in 1st gear but I can't get it out. Always cranked in first gear in the past.

  5. #5
    Active Member JoeUpchurch's Avatar
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    Only relay I didn't pull was the "rectifier" under the plastic - put the plastic back on without thinking.

  6. #6
    Active Member JoeUpchurch's Avatar
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    And, of course, hasn't thrown the first code - checked that before and after on and off and start failure.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoeUpchurch View Post
    And, of course, hasn't thrown the first code - checked that before and after on and off and start failure.
    Foot or hand on brake then try to start

  8. #8
    Active Member Princeau99's Avatar
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    Default Probably not very helpfull

    There was a guy in the last two weeks that had the same symptom (sounds like anyway) and it turned out to be his starter had locked up. Not something I would try to fix at home.

    bummer dude!
    2014 Pearl white RTS

  9. #9
    Active Member JoeUpchurch's Avatar
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    Cool Thanks, but tried that repeatedly

    Quote Originally Posted by happyspyder2039 View Post
    Foot or hand on brake then try to start
    Thanks for the effort of reading and replying to my problem.

  10. #10
    Active Member JoeUpchurch's Avatar
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    Cool Load test verifies battery in perfect condition and fully charges

    I guess it's on to my dealer now - have no trailer - we'll see how well BEST PLUS works!, to be continued

  11. #11
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    The only way that your bike could turn over while in first gear...

    ... if your foot was on the brake.
    Give it another try...


    "Says in 1st gear but I can't get it out. Always cranked in first gear in the past."
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  12. #12
    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default Little checking..!!

    you can put it into "N" manually with a wrench. With no codes hard to tell much could be the gear position sensor or as the other member with the starter problem where the magnet came loose and he JB welded it back. Somewhat involved if no mechanically savy...sadly the old push start won't work on the se's let us know what they find...
    Gene and Ilana De Laney
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    ​2012 RS sm5
    2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black

  13. #13
    Active Member JoeUpchurch's Avatar
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    Default Had my foot on the brake every cranking attempt

    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    The only way that your bike could turn over while in first gear...

    ... if your foot was on the brake.
    Give it another try...


    "Says in 1st gear but I can't get it out. Always cranked in first gear in the past."
    Had my foot on the brake every cranking attempot for 2 days

  14. #14
    Active Member JoeUpchurch's Avatar
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    Default click - no crank

    Quote Originally Posted by Chupaca View Post
    you can put it into "N" manually with a wrench. With no codes hard to tell much could be the gear position sensor or as the other member with the starter problem where the magnet came loose and he JB welded it back. Somewhat involved if no mechanically savy...sadly the old push start won't work on the se's let us know what they find...
    sure will, thanks for your interest!

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoeUpchurch View Post
    Had my foot on the brake every cranking attempot for 2 days
    Sorry... I had to ask about it.

    My guess now, is that your battery isn't as good as you think it is...
    Can you have it load tested?
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  16. #16
    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    Sorry... I had to ask about it.

    My guess now, is that your battery isn't as good as you think it is...
    Can you have it load tested?
    The OP load tested the battery and tested fine. So that eliminates the battery as the cause. When he pushes the starter button there is a click. That eliminates the kill switch being in the off position and not having his foot on the brake pedal. With either of those issues there should only be silence. So manually putting it into neutral would be a waste of time. He has checked all the connections so that leaves the starter or a connection he missed.

    2018 F3 LIMITED

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    I suggested a load test, because I've heard some folks in here talk about the batteries testing pretty decent without a load...

    ...But make them work, and a bad cell, has been known to make an appearance...
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  18. #18
    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    I suggested a load test, because I've heard some folks in here talk about the batteries testing pretty decent without a load...

    ...But make them work, and a bad cell, has been known to make an appearance...
    But he said he owns his own load tester in the first post and said it tested good in another.

    2018 F3 LIMITED

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    I guess because I didn't see a reference to the results of the test; I was wondering if he had done it yet...
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  20. #20
    Active Member JoeUpchurch's Avatar
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    Cool Load test on battery

    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    I guess because I didn't see a reference to the results of the test; I was wondering if he had done it yet...
    Sorry, for specifics the load test showed capability better than 400 CCA - with battery listed at about 350 CCA, I call that "passing the load test".

  21. #21
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    Default Start button

    Our was clicking just like you reffer, it would after a few tries finally start. We were told that we were not holding it correctly... this went on for about a year.. At Spyderfest this year, BRP rep told me the same thing.. He would look at it, when he tried to crank, lt just clicked.. "Naturally I hollered,, you ain't holding it right... they replaced a defective switch button.. stranger things have happened.. mileasge has nothing to do with it either.. our reverse actuator went out with 800 miles on it...

  22. #22
    Active Member JoeUpchurch's Avatar
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    Chris ( from my dealer) called this afternoon and informed me that my Spyder was fixed and that the problem was that the chassis ground had come undone. Can anyone tell me where the chassis ground is, how to check if it comes undone? Really perplexed.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  23. #23
    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
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    Under the seat on the right side is the main one. Doubles as the negative jumper post.

    2018 F3 LIMITED

  24. #24
    Active Member JoeUpchurch's Avatar
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    Billy, how could this be? The jumper post was a solid connection to the battery, the dealer mentioned that they should have caught it at the 4600 inspection - just makes no sense to me - I made sure that the thing was tight from the top. Help, please.


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  25. #25
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    Joe,
    Is your bike now starting normally for you?
    If so...
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

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