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Thread: DPS Error

  1. #1
    Member gftempl's Avatar
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    Default DPS Error

    Before I load my 2010 RT/S on a trailer for a long ride to the shop, maybe someone out there will have an idea how to fix my problem. I rode my Spyder home and parked it...no problem. The next day when I started it I got the dreaded handlebar error icon. I checked the codes and got both P0551 and P0552. I checked the grounds on the chassis (right side) and at the battery...both tight. I checked all the fuses...none blown and all were reseated (under seat and in frunk). I pushed in all the relays...all appeared tight. I read were swapping R7 and R8 relays might show a bad relay so I swapped R7 (main relay 1) and R8 (headlight hi/low beam) and started bike...still got the error only now I noticed the hi beams were on and I could not lower them (I do not know if this problem already existed before today since I mainly ride in daylight). The relay clicks but nothing happens. I ordered new relays and replaced both R7 and R8 and all the problems still exist. DPS error and hi/low beams do not switch - hi is always on. As far as I can tell everything else works. Any more suggestions????

  2. #2
    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default Curious..!!

    during this testing and changing have you removed the key from the ignition and walked away with it..?? This will let the computer reset and in some cases clear the screen. Sometimes it takes disconnecting the battery. You have covered what you can do further dps work will need dealer intervension...if you can start it and ryde around slowly this may unstick things but again take the key walk...
    Gene and Ilana De Laney
    Mt. Helix, California

    ​2012 RS sm5
    2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black

  3. #3
    Member gftempl's Avatar
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    Default done that too...

    Did the key walk a number of times...guess tomorrow I'll just fire it up and see if a ride around the block can fix my ills. What puzzles me is that there was no indication of a problem until I parked it, had a beer and went to bed. Maybe Spyders were meant to be ridden 24/7 without ever turning them off.

  4. #4
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    Default

    How old is the battery in the bike?
    The DPS is the single-largest electrical draw on the bike.
    If the battery can't stand the pain any more; it sometimes lets it's complaints be heard as DPS issues...
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  5. #5
    Very Active Member bruiser's Avatar
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    Default

    Those are torque sensor codes. If you're still getting the codes I suspect that is a true failure. Is the steering any different? Ie: harder to turn? Most likely the torque sensor has shorted to ground.



    USAF '69-'89 E7
    Thailand/Vietnam 1972
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  6. #6
    Member gftempl's Avatar
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    Default Still bad...

    The battery is original but I thought about the drain and used my trickle charger to bring it up and left the charger on while starting to see if that would help, it didn't. I took the bike for a ride and the steering was very stiff so the DPS definitely wasn't working. Any clue what the DPS and permanent hi beams have in common?

  7. #7
    RT-S PE#0801 timeless's Avatar
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    Default Similar problem in March

    Quote Originally Posted by gftempl View Post
    The battery is original but I thought about the drain and used my trickle charger to bring it up and left the charger on while starting to see if that would help, it didn't. I took the bike for a ride and the steering was very stiff so the DPS definitely wasn't working. Any clue what the DPS and permanent hi beams have in common?
    I had a similar problem in March of this year and was preparing to take a trip from Fort Walton Beach, Fl to Key Largo, Fl.

    I pulled the side covers and removed the battery(original on my 2010 RT SE5) cleaned all connections and the battery also. Put it back together with a little no ox and just like all the forum discussions said the problem magically went away.


    As of this date all is still good !!!!!!!!!!

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