Do you have a pic of the engine and where your setting your gears, there should only be one TDC mark for the crank which will be top dead center on the compression stroke and there should be dots to align up for the cams, bolt the tensioners in place pull the pins and then rotate the engine.
As far as the transmission every bike motor I've done granted not that many but a couple it is always best to assemble the transmission and put it in the neutral position. Personally have not looked at a rotax apart yet but the internal workings on the SE and the SM should be about the same.
Last edited by billrob71; 08-28-2014 at 09:12 PM.
Bill 2013 RSS Neutron Green
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Looking at the engine break down there's a primary and a secondary gear on the crank that drives the timing chain and a upper and lower balance shaft also that you need to make sure is timed correctly as well , counter balance shaft probably won't cause your bind but will vibrate the motor to death if not in there correct still like to see a pic of both side where the chains are.
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Dam sorry told ya wrong and was thinking about this in the shower I remember the last 4stroke ATV I did if the balance shaft is out of time, on the power stroke the crank would hit the balance shaft. So I'm sure you have checked that but just throwing it out there.
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K .. done a 12 hour shift of work today. Get home and spent the last 2 hours on the engine. I think I did assemble the bike in neutral because I did thought of this before I started. I purposely put the bike in neutral before all this started and I assembled the gear box same way I took it out. I am guessing gear box is in neutral since I can spin it forward and backward.
Some really Good News!! first I like to thank all the members for your advices and kind thoughts. I did it and the engine now turns freely and like it suppose to and it going through all the cycles like it suppose to.
I recheck all my work on the rear cylinder. All the markings that I am supposed to match and it was all good. I then proceed to lock TDC for the rear cylinder but I had to crank through quite a few TDC before the markings all in syn like it was when I assembled it. I will try to take pictures tomorrow and post it for future references for other members. I then crank the crank shaft clockwise 300 degrees rough guess on my part. I start looking for the locking hole for TDC for the front cylinder. This is really a 2 person job but I was determined and found it after a lot of chosen words and a cold one. I proceed to lock it and start to look around. The timing chain gear in the bottom for the front cylinder is off by about 8 tooth on the magneto side. I will post pictures of the marking tomorrow. I proceeded to reinstall the bottom gear and match the marking. I then reinstalled all the chain guards, tensioners and both of the timing gears on top like I did before. Then I crank one, two , three, four, five...
PS. I think I remember the balance shaft did move some when I tried to install the timing chain drive gear on but I can't be sure.
Dam sorry told ya wrong and was thinking about this in the shower I remember the last 4stroke ATV I did if the balance shaft is out of time, on the power stroke the crank would hit the balance shaft. So I'm sure you have checked that but just throwing it out there.
Yes. You are right and that's exactly what it was.. Thanks
I won't be able to continue my work on the bike for at least a week. I will post again once my work on the bike resume. In the mean time I will try to take the pictures of all the markings a person suppose to match and post it tomorrow. Thanks again and I will be posting again soon.
TDC marking fir the front cylinder and timing gears aligment. The rear cylinder must be install first. Set to TDC then rotate crank clockwise 300 degree and lock TDC for the front. Those will be your marks. 20140829_085013.jpg20140829_084958.jpg20140829_084946.jpg
TDC marking for the rear cylinder. This is the cylinder that must be assembled first. Notice the small dots on the bottom timing gear. It must match the line in the crank case in order for the rest of the gears and marking to line up and the gears to turn in sync. 20140829_084730.jpg
The markings on the drive gear and the balance shaft gear was covered after I installes it. But I put I marking on the drive gear where the 2 marks will line up. Just to give you an idea where to look.
I am saving all the info for when I is my turn I might be able to get it done being a F4 and F16 mechanic.
You are doing a good job do it once check twice. Good luck
what did you use to lock the gears unordered to torque them?
The locking bolt I purchased from BRP. Once that is in place, nothing would move and you can crank and torque to your liking. I think I did uploaded a picture of it in the previous post. Is a long bolt with a hex bolt head one end and you can put a 13mm socket on it. The other end will slide right into the hole on the mag inside the crankcase and lock the crank. It works good. I will try to load a picture when I gather all the tools one needs to do the job.
Back from vacation and the engine is back on the bike.
Just came back from vacation. I work all day today and had the engine back on the bike. It fired up on first try and I was over joyed. The transmission wont shift then I was pretty disappointed. I had a cold one then started to think maybe the oil hadn't get into the shifting unit yet. I waited for an hour or so and tried it again. Well, no go. I realized I hadn't shifted through the gear when I was putting it together. I crossed my finger and hoped for the best. I then grabbed a very very large screw driver and shifting through the gear forward and back.
I then did the following 1. Jacked up my bike 2. Put the belt on 3. shift the bike in neutral manually 4. started my bike 5. shifted it into first with the shifting paddle 6. bring the RPM up to about 5000 7. Lord and behold she shifted into 2nd, then 3rd , 4th & 5th then back down again.
It rained hard here today. I will have to wait until tomorrow or weather is clear to give it a good test run. So far so good. It gave me an error on my reverse but it reverse fine. I might have to bring it in to have the gear position sensor reset or set right with BRP software. I notice from 1st to neutral is a little sluggish but it had done that before I had it apart. I might have to put another gasket on the magneto side because I notice a small leaks. I am thinking maybe I can put some liquid gasket on the outside of the engine case to stop or slow down the leaks for now.
A couple of things I had notice while I started my bike the first time.
1. It took all the oil in the oil change pack. The large jug and the 1 liter jug. The oil just barley show on the dip stick.
2. I had to wait a little for the oil to get into the shifting units.
3. I had an error on the computer when I reverse
4. A small oil leaks on the magneto side's cover
5. sluggish shifting from 1st down to neutral
6. Engine over heating while I had it on jack and adjusting the belt for about 20 min. I then realize the coolant were low. I added more coolant and so far so good.
7. I really need to take it for a good test drive to see how it runs.
Thank you for following and I will make a few final posting as soon as I get a chance. I am pretty much on survival mode right now. Between work, kids, my good wife and fixing my spyder. I am sure lots of you know exactly what I meant. Cheers
Not being able to shift right away is to be expected. The oil pump for the shifting system is running as long as the engine is running. But is in a closed loop when not shifting gears. That means the air will not leave the shifting system until multiple gear shifts are done.
Give us the code you are getting we might be able to help you sometimes you do not need the BUDS to clear codes. You did a petty good job.
Thanks. It didn't really give me a code. Instead of showing R (reverse), it show as E but my bike reversed fine. I guess I will have to get the code error code to display.
Took the bike out this morning for a first test ride. Everything works like it should except the reverse error showing on display. It is official my bike is running again.
I will have to replace the gasket on the magneto side. Anyone have experiences doing this please help. I did installed it by the book but it leaks. I am thinking should I be using any type of sealant with this gasket to help it seals or I just lucked out on a bad gasket. I ordered another new gasket and second time lucky (hopefully).
Picture of my bike before test ride this morning and the $20.00 luggage rack I put together last summer. I will make a final post of all the tools that I used and a few must do for this job. It will be sometime next week. Thanks
Not being able to shift right away is to be expected. The oil pump for the shifting system is running as long as the engine is running. But is in a closed loop when not shifting gears. That means the air will not leave the shifting system until multiple gear shifts are done.
Thanks.. I am sure that's exactly what it was. Once I manually shifted those gears a few time up and down. It shifted easier and this morning it shifted good during my test ride.
Congrats on getting it back together, it is amazing what you can do when you put your mind to it. It s a great feeling when you decide and do it yourself.
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I remember the last 4stroke ATV I did if the balance shaft is out of time, on the power stroke the crank would hit the balance shaft. So I'm sure you have checked that but just throwing it out there.
Originally Posted by billrob71
