I know this is late but, 648 is used on bearings to hold them in the case/housing. We used it extensively on shaft bearings in our brush drive gear boxes. If yo don't use some type of "locking bond" there is a very good chance the bearing outer race will spin in the housing. Not a good scenario. It's also used on most "press fit" items like gears and seals. Permatex sleeve retainer is the same stuff. If you can find it, STP oil treatment works as a great assembly lube. I used it for years rebuilding engines. Never had a problem.
Thanks. STP oil treatment perfect to know. I have some of that laying around. I now know what 648 is for after your explanation, the flywheel are press fit to the crankshaft and is hold in by a washer and a bolt at the end of the crank on the magneto side. The 648 must be used to help bond it to the crank .. Thanks
Okay, I have the gear box back in and the crank and the balance shaft back in. The gasket cut and in place and guess what?? My torque wrench was a little too hefty. I wasn't lying when I said I am not much of a mechanics. My torque wrench is from 30 to 250 foot pound. I needed one for 97 in pound and 18 foot pound for some of the nuts and bolt. Local industrial place had one for $252 and tax, OUCH!!! I ended up buying two one from 10 foot pound to 150 foot pound $49.00 and another for from Nappa from 0 in pound to 200 in pound on sale for $99.00. If you see a great deal for the smaller torque wrench wouldn't hurt to pick one up for future use.
I will attempt to install most of the gears(drive gear, cam gears, water pump gear, etc) tomorrow morning before I had to go to work. If I have enough time maybe one or both of the cylinders.
It seems the user manual had loctite 243 just about every where but none were use on the bolts that hold the crank case together ( on the outside). Should I put a little bit of blue loctite on them. I don't think it will hurt anything.. anyone know why they didn't use loctite ?? or just really not necessary. Thanks..
Okay half my engine is now back together. Just need my friend to show up and help with torquing everything down before I proceed with the front cylinder. The rear cylinder had to be fully assemble before any work can be done on the front cylinder.
Just a few points I notice while I was putting the crankcase together for novice like me.
*Do not hoover anything over your engine case that might felt off.
*If you think you read your service manual enough time.. read it again.
*If you think you took enough pictures ... take more for reference
*Do not rush into the next stage until you are 110% sure you done what the service manual ask you to do.
*Everything is machine fit and if it doesn't go in.. stop and look
*If you felt overwhelmed just stop and take a break. One bolt at a time and is not a race.
*a little bit of oil will kept your washer from falling off and make the job of line things up a lot easier.
*couple of tools is a must have for this job.. the magneto removal tool and the crank locking bolt.
*To found TDC the crank locking bolt will fit into a bolt hole on the mag inside the crank case when it is on TDC and it stop the crank from moving. If it move you are not on TDC. I was off by one tooth without using the locking bolt. My second try with the locking bolt and I was dead on.
*I am pretty sure there is one hole on the mag for the rear cylinder's TDC and another one for the front cylinder. (I will know for sure once I start working on the front cylinder.
*To get your piston back on, putting the pin and clip back. It is a major pain and tedious work. After a number of tries and 30 min later.. here is what I came up with and make it a breeze to put in. I use a needle nose pliers to hold one end of the clip in position then I use another pliers to hold the other end and put it in the groove. It works great.
*If you are rich get someone else to do it for you.
Going to my real work now and hopefully have time to finish this job tomorrow.
Attach is the pliers I used to put the clip back into the piston.
PS. A small setback the piston ring broke while trying to put the cylinder back. It will be another 3 days wait for parts and another $100 later..
No.. this is the first time I ever putting a piston in a cylinder and learned my lesson. I used a big ratchet clamp off a rubber drain pipe connector on my second try to hold the rings in and it slide in most of the way. I used a small screw driver to give the last ring a little squeeze and it slide in the rest of the way. I also did put the piston into the cylinder first. I then tipped my engine on the side to put the pin in. It took all the weight off while I put the pin and the clip in.
The rear cylinder is back on, all the gears are back on, clutch reassembled and back on. The front cylinder is locked at TDC and just waiting for the rings to show up tomorrow. I am going to put the rest of the gears back on the magneto side today and the fly wheel will be going back on today too. Oh yes and I did replaced the broken needle bearing in the clutch and pack it with bearing oil.
Just couple of points.
*I did left the clutch cover off to help located TDC for both cylinder. You can see TDC coming up by looking at the crank or the cam loop. You can also double check by watching it coming up from the clutch side. On the clutch side with the cover off there is an opening in the crankcase. I can see the bolt hole in the mag swing by. When it line up with the bolt hole on the crankcase then slide your locking bolt in and lock it. The crank will not move and you are on TDC. You can double check the cam loop and valves on top.
*I shined a small flash light into the bolt hole on the crank case to line things up. EASY WAY.
*I also did it by feel. If you thread the locking bolt in until it hit the mag then back off just a hair. While TDC is coming up then just try to thread the bolt in slow and easy as you turn the crank. The locking bolt will go into the bolt hole eventually and the crank will lock. This will be useful if the engine is on the bike and all the covers is on.
*The Dow Corning oil is almost like a Vaseline paste.
I will try to load a picture of it later but internet very slow lately.
Thanks.. stressful but had fun. Like always any tips, tricks and I must know please send it this way.
Piston ring didn't show up at the dealer today. They said BRP sent the last set to some dealer in Quebec instead of me. I guess luck would have it... It is now on back order and I guess it shows up when it shows up. There will be no more work done until the rings are here. I will post again once the parts get here. Thanks for the support..
Ps. Will up load some pics later that might be of interest of follow spydies. I think our carrier trying to get us into ordering fibreop and my high speed been slowing to a snail pace lately. They are succeeding because I ordered it today.
Hmmm.. I dont think I will be adjusting anything. The engine ran perfect before I took it apart. I would just like to put her back together the way it was with my new bearing installed. The less I mess around the less things can go wrong. I am really not that goo at this.
Base on the service manual.. the top of the piston suppose to have marking on it. A or B size. This marking also serves as an direction indicator of which way the piston should points. Well .. you guess it.. there is no marking on top.
Anyone would like to share any knowledge or bad news ..
I took a chance and installed I the way I thought I did took it off and I hand cranked the engine. It moves smooth and not hitting anything. I took it I am not going to bent any valves when I turn the key. Any thought???
PS. Make sure mark your pistons before theybcomen off.
Actually, Since you have the motor out, it would be really easy to check the valve clearance. The procedure is in the manual and wouldn't take more than a few minutes.
Actually, Since you have the motor out, it would be really easy to check the valve clearance. The procedure is in the manual and wouldn't take more than a few minutes.
And would be a wise decision since you have it apart , not A hard job with the manual to give you your specs and there's nothing in your way.
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Agreed. Once you taken the top end apart and reassembled it, things change ever so slightly. It would be foolish not to go the extra inch or two to check the valves.
Thank you for the suggestions. I will check the valves when I get a chance but right now that's the last thing on my plate. I installed the new piston rings and reassemble the front cylinder. I can crank the engine by hand without problem before I installed the front timing chain and gears. The seconds I thought I was done and crank the engine. I can't crank the engine more then a couple of turns by hand. Any thoughts ??? I followed the service manual to the teeth and I just can't seems to see where the problem could be. I am wondering if the balance shaft and the crank are not in sync. Could they be hitting when they turn? Could the front timing gear are off that might be causing this? Please help ...
I am going to take one more crack at it tonight then it will be another week before I can go at it again. Welcome any thought you might have. Thanks
Check timing and have the spark plugs out so it turns over by hand
I am going to check my timing again and the spark plugs is already out. I can see the valve half way open and then stop. I am thinking the piston might be at the wrong spot. Thanks
I am pretty sure I am . The engine however seems to be able to rotate both direction pretty free with just the rear cylinder on. Even with the front cylinder on without the timing gear install. It also rotates free. I am highly suspecting that the timing gear is off for the front cylinder. ???
Make sure it is in neutral when you turn it by hand after you get it to turn then put it thru all the gears
so if is not in neutral when I put it together. The engine might not be able to turn ??? It is a semi automatic.. I not sure how I am going to shift the gear yet. I will have to look and see.
First I am going to go over everything I did. Second I am going through what the book told me to do one more time with the front cylinder. I am 100% sure I got the rear cylinder right. In the mean time I like to know if I am in neutral or not. There isn't really a lever like the standard shift do but I might be able to turn the shifter by hand on the clutch side. Thanks and wish me luck. Going to need it...
The gearbox in a SE is identical to a SM. Instead of a long lever for your foot on a SM there is a short lever operated by the HCM. They both attach to same shaft on the left of the engine. Get a 13 mm open end wrench (in your tool kit) put it on the flats on the back of the shift lever. This will give you enough leverage to easily shift up and down the gears.
The gearbox in a SE is identical to a SM. Instead of a long lever for your foot on a SM there is a short lever operated by the HCM. They both attach to same shaft on the left of the engine. Get a 13 mm open end wrench (in your tool kit) put it on the flats on the back of the shift lever. This will give you enough leverage to easily shift up and down the gears.
Originally Posted by bruiser
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I used a big ratchet clamp off a rubber drain pipe connector on my second try to hold the rings in and it slide in most of the way. I used a small screw driver to give the last ring a little squeeze and it slide in the rest of the way. I also did put the piston into the cylinder first. I then tipped my engine on the side to put the pin in. It took all the weight off while I put the pin and the clip in.
It is now on back order and I guess it shows up when it shows up. There will be no more work done until the rings are here. I will post again once the parts get here. Thanks for the support..
