Bearing Pieces in oil

[JohnnyK]

Congrats. I'm really glad to see you were sucessful. You are now the expert. You've been there and done that.

John

[Roadster Renovations]

Excellent job!!

[jtoro1]

To pull up code press mode+set+turn signal cancel all at the same time info is on spydercodes app the best app on my phone

[billybovine]

To pull up code press mode+set+turn signal cancel all at the same time info is on spydercodes app the best app on my phone

That is not the correct way to pull up codes on a GS/RS. That is for RT and ST.

Press mode button repeatedly to scroll to total engine hours on display.
Press and hold the Hold button. Repeatedly press the flash high beams button 5 times in less than 5 seconds.

[billybovine]

When an "E" is displayed instead of the gear and the "R", "N" are not flashing. That means there is a fault coming from the Gear Position Sensor. That does mean that the sensor is bad, but could be. Make sure it is not damaged. Screws are tight. Maybe take it off and clean it. Since it is only giving you an "E" in reverse it could be you put the shift lever back on, one or two spline teeth off.

[Caito]

If you were following this thread before. I am sorry it took me this long to come up with my last post. Life been really busy and a little riding in between. All my riding will be done for the year now. First nor'easter snow storm hits 2 days ago and this time the white stuff going to stay. I like to listed a few things that you really need to watch while you are doing the job.

1. Get a good shop manual
2. Read it over and over until you have some concepts about the job you about to do.
3. Be patience and walk away for a break if you get overwhelm.
4. Take your time in everything you do. All the parts are machine fits. You shouldn't have to force them together. It you do then stop and look.
5. When you take your piston out, mark it. It was supposed to have marks from the factory but mine didn't. MARK IT ..
6. Once everything is back together. Hand crank it first to make sure everything fit and run before you start the engine.
7. Take pictures , video and write notes. What ever you need to do to help remembering where everything goes or fits.
8. Try to avoid power tools unless you have to. Some nuts and bolts you do need power tools to get it off.


If you choose to take on this task just know that I had minimal knowledge about engines and no hands on experiences at all. It can be done but very trying. Patience and time. Good Luck..

Thank You for following this post, all the help and encouragements. Now I can say Been there Done that!!


attached a few pictures some of the tools I used.

[DrewNJ]

Nice work! Its great to see someone take the time, educate themselves, and take the initiative to get it done vs. the standard "take it to your dealer" response.
As you found out these things are really not that complex once you dive into them.

[Frank G]

[Andy Cserny]

You are one gutsy guy! A difficult undertaking and hats off to you. I took the engine out of my 1800 Gold Wing and just took off the back of the engine and the rental, not the purchase price was over $200 for the specialty tools and to split the case and reassembly would have required over $2500 in specialty tools.
Getting back on your topic, considering the time it took you, minus the time it would take an experienced BRP mechanic, are the prices quoted you really out of line? At $75 to $100 per hour of shop time it would have been the cheaper option to buy a used engine out of a wreck and have it installed rather than having your engine overhauled as you did.

[finless]

While I like to work on stuff and have rebuilt many engines in my years, I think I would bite the bullet and just buy a new 998 engine for a little less than $2K. But this post is saved in my bookmarks if ever I need it and decide to tear down the engine anway...

Bob

[Bob Denman]

You are one gutsy guy! A difficult undertaking and hats off to you. .

[Caito]

You are one gutsy guy! A difficult undertaking and hats off to you. I took the engine out of my 1800 Gold Wing and just took off the back of the engine and the rental, not the purchase price was over $200 for the specialty tools and to split the case and reassembly would have required over $2500 in specialty tools.
Getting back on your topic, considering the time it took you, minus the time it would take an experienced BRP mechanic, are the prices quoted you really out of line? At $75 to $100 per hour of shop time it would have been the cheaper option to buy a used engine out of a wreck and have it installed rather than having your engine overhauled as you did.

I spent a total of about $1000 CAD. $500 for parts and about $500 for tools including a shop crane and 2 good quality torque wrenchs. The estimate quotes over the phone was $6000 and $9000 to do the job from 2 different shops. An used engine on eBay runs about $2000 US or more before shipping and fees. I haven't seen an used engine anywhere near where I am. The total hours I spent on it max. 30 hours or less without counting the time waiting for parts. I guess if someone was considering doing this they can work out their own numbers. I was at the point that I had nothing to lose. I guess it wasn't so much the money but to proof that it can be done at a reasonable cost with minimal mechanic experience. I am always ready and happy to pay someone for a job well done at a reasonable price. What is reasonable price is quite different to each of us I guess. A job well done is so hard to come by these days even with good intentions. That's how all this get started. Thanks for your comment and the experience I gained through this whole exercise.. Priceless.

Thanks and is snowing like crazy where I am ...

[Big Arm]

[snics]

My hat off to you, quite the undertaking.

[jtoro1]

I am saving this for it is my turn the rebuild my engine . Did you get all the problems resolved after you put it together. That was good work.

[Grandpot]

Lubricate all the moving parts with assembly lube or a heavy oil. When you first start the engine you don't want dry parts rubbing.

Good luck. Sounds like a great adventure.

[Caito]

I am saving this for it is my turn the rebuild my engine . Did you get all the problems resolved after you put it together. That was good work.

Yes, problem solved. It started on the first crank and machine runs great. When and if you need to rebuilt your engine. You might consider marking your piston before removing it. It was suppose to be marked from factory but there was no marking on mine.

[NorCalBud]

Nice work! Its great to see someone take the time, educate themselves, and take the initiative to get it done vs. the standard "take it to your dealer" response.
As you found out these things are really not that complex once you dive into them.

Caito,
I just remembered following this thread several months ago but lost track of it until just today. I'm so glad you were able to get this project completed with your own 2 hands!!! What a sense of satisfaction you must have knowing what you have accomplished. I was really pulling for you the entire way...

I thank you for all the detail you provided during the process...This was like reading a good mystery novel. Thanks for taking us all along with you on the adventure.
Enjoy the Ryde!!!

[Roadster Renovations]

I also followed this last year! Again, well done! I have bookmarked this for future reference. That is one of the reasons I do an oil analysis on my 1330. If something is failing, I want to know about it!

[Tarzan]

This is a very good write up. Thank you to the OP for posting alll this good information. I am just starting to reassemble my engine and transmission and will use this for reference. Awesome work!

[Tarzan]

In this post he mistakenly states that there is a bolt hole that will accept the crankshaft locking pin and lock the crank. It is actually on the clutch side of the engine. At least that's where it is on my 2012 RTS.

[ARtraveler]

This post dates back to July 2014. Most of the posters are no longer here.

[Tarzan]

This post dates back to July 2014. Most of the posters are no longer here.

I understand that. But I'm using this thread as a reference while re-assembling my engine. I just want to point out to anyone that ends up doing the same will at least double check that note.