I am new to the Spyderlovers.com but a regular visitor the last 3 years or so. Great forum and please keep up the great work.
About 2 weeks ago I heard noises from the front sprocket. I decided to do an oil change before a long ride. I found bearing pieces in my oil drain plug. Even for a novice like me knew that was not good. I am attempting to do the job myself after two shops told me it will cost between $5000 - $8000 to replace the bearing. I laughed and told them I will do it myself. So here I am half way into the job and I need some info in setting the TDC on the timing gear. Any help would be great and thank you.
1. Do I need to set TDC before I took the balance shaft and timing gear off?
2. Does the fly wheel have to come off before I split the case?
3. Can I pull the case from the clutch side and leave the other side intact?
4. Appreciate any tips and advice you can give this novice?
If you found bearing-bits in the oil; they might have travelled through the engine to get there ...
I'm way less of a mechanic than you... all I can say is be careful, and
Now that's a heck of a first post. Looks like you have quite a job going on there.
Your way beyond my mechanical abilities, but there are people on here that can talk the language with you.
You might find more help if you could supply information about year, model, miles on the engine, etc. Checked out your profile and did not see anything listed.
$5000 - $8000 to repair a bearing Even I would be finding an alternative fix at that price.
Hang in there.
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Thank You for all the reply. I just downloaded shop manual and I did pretty good so far without it. It will help a lot from now on. This is my first attempt in digging into any engine. I am going to need all the help and luck I can get.
I am thinking my problem is in the gear box since the noise is coming from the front sprocket. Base on the parts diagram, it seems to have quite a few bearing in there.
Entire engines go around $2K so your shops are way off base.
Get a shop manual on line.
There are step by step procedures for everything.
Having bearing pieces in the oil may only be the start of your problems.
I'd check into a short block.
Yep.. seen one on ebay for $1850 with 6000KM on it. As soon as I hear the noise then I stopped. I am hoping my problem end there with just the bearing.
you should have a manual. You came a long way without one or your is missing those pages. You will have to do some serious inspection and pull the clutch and tranny apart. Your almost there explaining the proceedures here would be tough. Get the online and plug it into your flatscreen and you will have pictures and spec's etc..good luck...
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While dealer was doing an oil change on my 2010 RTS SE5 He noticed metal o drain plug magnet and found big pieces in oil pan. Dealer found that c clip on clutch pack had come apart and shims were falling off.
As result Dealer replaced clutch pack.
I have 36000 km on my 2010 spyder, Do you know for sure that it is bearing ? If SE5 could it be clutch pack c clip?
While dealer was doing an oil change on my 2010 RTS SE5 He noticed metal o drain plug magnet and found big pieces in oil pan. Dealer found that c clip on clutch pack had come apart and shims were falling off.
As result Dealer replaced clutch pack.
I have 36000 km on my 2010 spyder, Do you know for sure that it is bearing ? If SE5 could it be clutch pack c clip?
Yes, I am pretty sure is needle bearing or roller bearing. I seen them before on other machines but not from Spyder.
Hope for the best for ya but if you have the motor out I'd take it apart and start inspecting and make sure all is clean. There will be smaller pieces of bearing material in there so take your time and do it right the first time. Make sure all your timing marks are aligned when you put everything back together one tooth off can cause problems.
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Some glad downloaded the shop manual. I found TDC for both of the cylinders and I will take all your advices. I am being very careful and taking my time to go through the motor. I will try to update my post as I go. I am hoping to do some riding before the season end.
I am new to the Spyderlovers.com but a regular visitor the last 3 years or so. Great forum and please keep up the great work.
About 2 weeks ago I heard noises from the front sprocket. I decided to do an oil change before a long ride. I found bearing pieces in my oil drain plug. Even for a novice like me knew that was not good. I am attempting to do the job myself after two shops told me it will cost between $5000 - $8000 to replace the bearing. I laughed and told them I will do it myself. So here I am half way into the job and I need some info in setting the TDC on the timing gear. Any help would be great and thank you.
1. Do I need to set TDC before I took the balance shaft and timing gear off?
2. Does the fly wheel have to come off before I split the case?
3. Can I pull the case from the clutch side and leave the other side intact?
4. Appreciate any tips and advice you can give this novice?
My answers are general answers as related to all motorcycle engines and are not be Spyder specific, since the engine is an Aprilia Rotax motor and I'm not a professional tech or Can Am certified, but I am an experienced motorcycle wrencher.
1. Yes, unless you are doing a complete tear down. Then it doesn't really matter all that much, because then you're starting from scratch.
2. Yes
3. I'm not sure I'm following you. If you mean spliting the cases without pulling anything apart from the clutch housing. No.
I'm not sure why you would want to attempt that. I assume you want to split the engine open to find the missing pieces of metal, if so, then you'd want to take it completely down for an inspection.
4. What some people do, and I've never personally done, is to take the side covers off and pull the jugs (and clutch plates) then flush the case with solvent, like diesel. Hoping to flush out all of the metal pieces. Most oil pumps have a screen hidden inside the case half. Pull that and check it. You're looking for all of the mission pieces, as best as you can reconstruct the bearing. If you find what you think is all of it, then you should be good to go. The solvent flush is a crap shoot, but it's your call.
Also, either way I'd pull apart the oil pump and check the rotors for scoring and/or damage. They have pretty tight tolerances and are made of soft metal and are easily damaged.
How far are you tearing it down?
Ideally, you really want to consider going completely down. Your going to be into the trans too.
Basically, think of it as a complete rebuild. Replace all your gaskets and soft parts. Check for damage on the crank, jugs and trans gears. More will depend on which bearing came apart.
Yes, clutch and flywheel have to be removed.
My answers are general answers as related to all motorcycle engines and are not be Spyder specific, since the engine is an Aprilia Rotax motor and I'm not a professional tech or Can Am certified, but I am an experienced motorcycle wrencher.
1. Yes, unless you are doing a complete tear down. Then it doesn't really matter all that much, because then you're starting from scratch.
2. Yes
3. I'm not sure I'm following you. If you mean spliting the cases without pulling anything apart from the clutch housing. No.
I'm not sure why you would want to attempt that. I assume you want to split the engine open to find the missing pieces of metal, if so, then you'd want to take it completely down for an inspection.
4. What some people do, and I've never personally done, is to take the side covers off and pull the jugs (and clutch plates) then flush the case with solvent, like diesel. Hoping to flush out all of the metal pieces. Most oil pumps have a screen hidden inside the case half. Pull that and check it. You're looking for all of the mission pieces, as best as you can reconstruct the bearing. If you find what you think is all of it, then you should be good to go. The solvent flush is a crap shoot, but it's your call.
Also, either way I'd pull apart the oil pump and check the rotors for scoring and/or damage. They have pretty tight tolerances and are made of soft metal and are easily damaged.
Thank you for you answer. I will check the oil pump and the screen to make sure.
How far are you tearing it down?
Ideally, you really want to consider going completely down. Your going to be into the trans too.
Basically, think of it as a complete rebuild. Replace all your gaskets and soft parts. Check for damage on the crank, jugs and trans gears. More will depend on which bearing came apart.
Yes, clutch and flywheel have to be removed.
The further I goes and the more I work on it. I think I am going all the way. I had pretty much everything off now except the clutch assembly and the water pump. I think after that I will be into splitting the crankcase. So far as I can see..I don't see any damages at all. Everything is as good as the first day they put it in. I found and see no metal pieces. I am still hoping all the damages will be in the gearbox area. Thank you for all the reply. I will update this post as I move along.
The further I goes and the more I work on it. I think I am going all the way. I had pretty much everything off now except the clutch assembly and the water pump. I think after that I will be into splitting the crankcase. So far as I can see..I don't see any damages at all. Everything is as good as the first day they put it in. I found and see no metal pieces. I am still hoping all the damages will be in the gearbox area. Thank you for all the reply. I will update this post as I move along.
You are a braver man than me I would have just got a new (used) engine this should be very informative make sure to take pictures along the way.
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You are a braver man than me I would have just got a new (used) engine this should be very informative make sure to take pictures along the way.
His right i would check used engine but it is good to take it apart to look at it , you might get lucky like i did when i was young ,you will very pleased if it works out, what do you have to loose, I was an F 16 mechnic, I love taking things a part.
His right i would check used engine but it is good to take it apart to look at it , you might get lucky like i did when i was young ,you will very pleased if it works out, what do you have to loose, I was an F 16 mechnic, I love taking things a part.
I am not really that brave. I figure I have everything to gain and nothing to lose. I just don't think it should cost that much to fix.(what the shops quote me) I am sure some of us know what is like to have 3 kids in University. I am making notes and taking pictures along the way and I sure hope no one will need it in the future. I will post some pictures as I get along further.
Your going the route I would have gone too. I would rather spend the time and money to go through the motor and do the repairs myself and know its right vs. Buying a used motor and rolling the dice on the outcome.
The water pump is easy. Leave it intact with the case. Its gear driven and part of the case. Likely, you won't have to mess with it.
Just waiting for the tool from BRP to take the flywheel or Magneto off. So far there are no damages at all as far as I can see. There seem to be some play on the Front Sprocket shaft. I am not sure if that is the way suppose to be. Does anyone know if it should or not?? I can see my trans from the crankcase opening. What I can see looked good. I can't wait to get in there and put my Spyder back on the road. It's been too long since I ride.
Part number for the tool 529036097 (Magneto Puller) and the Crank locking bolt for locking the Crankshaft 529036098. The locking bolt would be useful anytime you need to do anything to the timing chain.Service manual recommended you find TDC and install locking bolt before you do anything to the timing chain and something else too. ( I can't quite remember) I am sure the lock bolt will come in handy when I put motor back together again.
So far I had proceeded without problem with my minimal set of mechanical skills. I am sure most of us have the will to do this, CAN. Just do a lot of reading and ask a lot of questions. Prepare to purchase the right tools for the job. I keep a step by step journal as I goes about my business. I took a lots of before and after pictures everytime I took a part off. Just pay a lot of attention to details and I also try to avoid power tools as much as I can. I have a 2 foot and a 4.5 ft cheater bar handy when those locktite get in the way. If the bolt don't move just STOP and think about your next step. There might be a better way then force your way through which might end up damaging something. You are then into a bigger job or perhaps more expensive.
If anyone have any good tips or I must have to put the motor back together. Please jump in and shares your knowledge. General tips like putting the gasket back on, Parts need to be locktite, or anything that might help make my engine runs again.
My real work always seems to get in the way of fixing my bike but attached is a few pics on how far I get.
Bearing Pieces in oil
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Originally Posted by Rattigan_Roger
Goodonya
Down to the flywheel..
