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  1. #1
    formerly pman2011 YIRYDE's Avatar
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    Default BRP HID Headlights installed on a 2014 RT

    Here are some pics of the location where I installed my BRP HID Ballast on my 2014. I don’t have any pics on the removal of the headlights since it’s the same on all RT’s. I removed them from my 2011 prior to trade in and installed them on my 2014. I was determined to get these lights installed once I verified they would fit.

    BRP says these HID’s are available for the 2010 - 2012 RT’s and currently they do not sell them for the 2013 and 2014 RT’s. The Ballast gets installed on the 2010 – 2012 RT’s on a bracket located above the radiator.

    I installed them on the grill (removing grill made it easier) that’s located behind the A frame. I used the spacers that come with the ballast and mounted them to the grill with fender washers on both sides of the grill. I probably didn't need the spacers and could have mounted them directly to the grill but I wasn't sure how much heat the ballast would put off.

    I used high temp flat black spray paint and painted the ballast, washers and screws so when you look at the grill it would all be black. The adjustment is the same on the HID’s as it is for the stock headlights.



    photo 1.jpg
    Ballast Painted

    photo 6.jpg
    Ballast mounted to grill, side view

    photo 5.jpg
    Ballast mounted to grill, inside view

    photo 4.jpg
    Ballast mounted to grill, outside view
    Last edited by YIRYDE; 07-16-2014 at 11:32 PM.
    [B]


    2018 Intense Red F3T (See About Me under My Profile for mods)
    2010 Timeless Black RT-622 Trailer
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  2. #2
    formerly pman2011 YIRYDE's Avatar
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    Default Additional Pics

    Additional Pics

    photo 7.jpg
    Wiring

    photo 8.jpg
    Viewing Grill installed back on the Spyder
    [B]


    2018 Intense Red F3T (See About Me under My Profile for mods)
    2010 Timeless Black RT-622 Trailer
    2014 Timeless Black RTS-SE6, 34,300 Miles, traded May 2019
    2011 Timeless Black RTS-SE5, 15,180 Miles, traded April 2014

  3. #3
    Very Active Member PMK's Avatar
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    Looks like a nice location.

    For our machine, I made a pair of stainless steel mounting brackets, and secured all of it to the chassis. One ballast located on the right and one on the left.

    Ironically, the oem mount on the chassis and the oem bracket that comes with the lights would have all worked, except for them adding a small welded on mount for the airbox crossbar and another mount to support the existing chassis wires.

    PK

  4. #4
    formerly pman2011 YIRYDE's Avatar
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    I'm looking forward to seeing your design, it will give me a alternative solution.
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    2018 Intense Red F3T (See About Me under My Profile for mods)
    2010 Timeless Black RT-622 Trailer
    2014 Timeless Black RTS-SE6, 34,300 Miles, traded May 2019
    2011 Timeless Black RTS-SE5, 15,180 Miles, traded April 2014

  5. #5
    Very Active Member PMK's Avatar
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    Got a couple hundred miles on it yesterday, will get some photos and post them here, provided I do not see any problems with the install.

    PK

  6. #6
    Very Active Member PMK's Avatar
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    Some of the bodywork has been removed for swapping in the yellow / orange fog light bulbs. This allowed some photos of the BRP HID install on the 2014 RTs for our machine.

    As mentioned before, I made two stainless steel mounts for the ballasts. These are mounted, one on the left side of the machine and one on the right side. The mounting locations are almost a mirror from left to right. The frame has structure that extends out from the main frame to support bodywork. The stainless mounts are secured to the frame extensions. This could be done without drilling any holes in the frame extension. I was not too concerned, since the extensions support nothing, the two holes per side were small at 5mm each, and the frame extension is littered with oem holes.

    The wire routing from the headlights to the ballasts lays along the acoustic body panels. No coiling of excess, no strains from too short. This can be seen in some photos.

    If you look close, the engine / gearbox is visible behind the stainless mounts. The ballast mounting is via a bolt and nut, loctited to the plate. The ballast slips over this bolt / nut and is fastened with a second nut. This allows removal and install without removal of the plastic underside bodywork. I may drill 4 small holes in the plastic underside bodywork to allow an allen wrench to pass through, this would allow access to remove and install the stainless steel mounts without removing the plastic. Mo need currently, so it is staying as is.

    The location, and position of the stainless steel mount, acts as a heat shield if needed. There is a lot of cool air that enters via the grilles behind the suspension arms. Also, mounting the ballast as I did, allows airflow for cooling completely around the ballast as it is on standoffs with the mounting hardware.

    PK

  7. #7
    Very Active Member PMK's Avatar
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    This is the location used to mount ballasts in the 2012 and prior. The 2014 has the bracket welded to the frame, like the earlier years, however, this new mount was added to support the wire bundles, and also the aluminum crossbar for the airbox and stuff. Sadly, this prevents using the BRP supplied stainless bracket and their mounting location as on the earlier years. To claeify, the mount would be the item forward of the rubber dust accordion for the headlight aiming cable. It does have holes in it, so look close. The BRP kit provided special adapter bushings to reduce the hole size. If you attempt the install of BRP HIDs, don't waste your time trying to make this work. The welded to the rame mount for the wire harness is in the way and would need to be cut off.

    Really, this is a big design screw up. Has the designer repositioned just slightly, the BRP HID kit would have fit with no fuss for all years. Oh well.

    PK
    Last edited by PMK; 08-01-2014 at 04:44 AM.

  8. #8
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    Nice work guys!

  9. #9
    RT-S PE#0031 MarkLawson's Avatar
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    Wouldn't the constant heat from the radiator be detrimental to the life of the ballast? I would think there are places that would be much cooler that could be used for the location. Also, your location becomes a possible issue when removing the frunk.
    Mark & Mary Lou Lawson
    Snellville, GA USA
    '10 RT-S PE #0031
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    "Remember in the darkness what you have learned in the light." - Joe Bayly



  10. #10
    Very Active Member PMK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MarkLawson View Post
    Wouldn't the constant heat from the radiator be detrimental to the life of the ballast? I would think there are places that would be much cooler that could be used for the location. Also, your location becomes a possible issue when removing the frunk.
    You may not be aware that neither install involves the frunk. Mine are mounted on each side of the engine, one left side and one right side, in cool airflow.

    YIRide has his ballasts fastened to the plastic grill located aft of the suspension arms, his too is in cool air.

    The OEM BRP location is up high, on the right side with minimal airflow, pretty much above the proverbial flamethrower outlet on the right side.

    PK

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