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  1. #1
    Active Member bigsims330's Avatar
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    Ok spyderlove Iím in need of some help Iím at a lost Iíve tried several things out with no positive out come

    So here we go Iím riding my spyder out of nowhere it shuts off dead I managed to push it to a hill and jump start it well it started and I managed to get half way home before it shut off once again I thought it has to be the battery so I took out the old multimeter the battery was between 12&13 volts for kicks I put the battery on my battery tinder for about 2 hours the bike power on with all lights and started fine next day went to start the bike dead once again so I to the battery to have it tested at my local auto shop battery tested fine I couldnít believe it so I took it to my local can am dealer battery tested fine there too got back home install the battery back in the spyder turned the switch to the on the bike light up for less than a minute while I was trying to pull up codes spyder cuts off once again I have a spare battery installed that one with the same outcome bike powers on then cuts off no dash lights but you hear the click from the key from the off to on position

    I replace all fuseís also
    Last edited by bigsims330; 07-10-2014 at 11:53 PM.

  2. #2
    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default Tough one..!!

    batteries can be tricky. Volt testing is not enough. Load testing is needed. These machines have systems that need fully charged batteries in some cases min 12.7 volts. You seem to have checked the fuses and relays now also check the ground cables to the frame. It may be some loose connection. Didn't check to see which model we are talking about. But also check your output (voltage coming back to the battery while running)..
    Gene and Ilana De Laney
    Mt. Helix, California

    ​2012 RS sm5

  3. #3
    Active Member bigsims330's Avatar
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    Gs 08
    Load test while running was 13 give or take I order all new relays
    Last edited by bigsims330; 07-11-2014 at 01:12 AM.

  4. #4
    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default Well..!!

    Quote Originally Posted by bigsims330 View Post
    Gs 08
    Load test while running was 13 give or take I order all new relays
    When it cut out or dies do you still have all the lights and guages working..?? Does it still crank..?? Could your coil or plug wire have gone bad..?? This would kill the engine or bad gas, bad kill switch...cause if it still cranks and lights are working then battery may be fine..just throwing stuff at you....
    Gene and Ilana De Laney
    Mt. Helix, California

    ​2012 RS sm5

  5. #5
    Active Member bigsims330's Avatar
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    No gauges light won't crank either I just change the pluge and coil 2 weeks ago
    thanks I might check the coil tomorrow

  6. #6
    Registered Users Gray Ghost's Avatar
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    Just a suggestion, but right now you are just throwing parts at the thing without isolating the problem. It really sounds to me like you have a loose or corroded ground connection somewhere. It will be a pain, but you are more likely to find your problem by tracing the wiring systematically to ensure that everything is connected properly.

    Do you have a service manual or wiring diagram for your bike?


    Clifford Fargason
    2013 Spyder RTL
    2007 Royal Star Venture

  7. #7
    Active Member bigsims330's Avatar
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    Yup and your right about throwing part too
    But I changed the coil and spark plug for a whole other reason
    Last edited by bigsims330; 07-11-2014 at 07:33 AM.

  8. #8
    Very Active Member Bob Denman's Avatar
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    Is this battery the original one that came with the bike?
    If it is; it may have "run it's course", and needs to be retired now.
    Otherwise; your problem may be with either the "unrelated" coil change, or an intermittent connection to ground...
    Tackle one possible source at a time, and check them off as you go... Good Luck!

  9. #9
    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
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    I agree with not throwing parts at it. Get out the multimeter and start tracing. But in particular off the top of my head check the negative jumper post under the seat.

    2018 F3 LIMITED

  10. #10
    Active Member bigsims330's Avatar
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    Sometimes its the little things you look over I just picked up my spyder before all this happen from the local dealer after everything was said and done it was the main ground thanks everyone for the help

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigsims330 View Post
    Sometimes its the little things you look over I just picked up my spyder before all this happen from the local dealer after everything was said and done it was the main ground thanks everyone for the help
    Hey there! Can you please tell me more about the root cause you discovered? I've got a 2010 RT with the exact same symptom. I've had her towed to a local mechanic but I'm looking to give him every possible advantage in locating the problem.

    Many thanks.
    David

  12. #12
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    As some have mentioned, typically it is a ground issue or actually is the battery. When you turn on the key and no lights on the dash come on, power is not getting there. You said all fuses were good. There is a big ground lug on the older Spyders by the battery. I had to loosen this (do NOT take off!!) and wedge some sand paper in there to shine up the metal and coat with some WD40. If you press the start button and it clicks or does nothing then new battery, even if it tests OK. By testing I mean it has 12+V, and the LOAD is tested at a car parts store - can it supply the 100 (or whatever rated) amps?? Probably not. I got a new battery at Batteries Plus, been great for 3 years now, costs about $110. Even if you do not change the battery yet, pull off the cables and hit with a wire brush and a bit of WD40 to seal it.

    Using a multimeter that checks for shorts, clip one end one the battery ground and test ground points around the frame. Should beep (or have very small resistances - less than maybe 1-2 ohms). I think there are a couple major grounding points on the frame that can get corroded over time.

    For example you said you replaced the coil. BRP added a wire from the coil going to the frame near the radiator. That ground has to be REALLY good, or the coil will cause noise at the TCM (Trans control module) and the bike will stick in gear because that computer went bonkers. On my bike I actually had to add a very thick wire from the coil to the battery ground, bypassing the frame connections. Only then it stopped the shifting issue.

    Another idea to throw out - use a jumper cable to jumper the battery ground to the frame up front? If that helps it proves it is a ground connection (this assumes battery is OK).

    Hope you get it running OK!! Keep us informed.

    Steve

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