oil level affecting shifting?

[jroberts650]

Can the oil level affect shifting if its a little over filled? Mine is like a 1/2" over the full mark when hot and I haven't had a chance to extract any yet. But the shifting seems OK except when I've been riding for a while. I normally shift around 5100 rpm but after riding a while and the temps are hot I have to shift into 2nd around 5600 rpm so I don't have delayed shifting. All others gears and downshifts are OK. Every once in a while 3rd will be delayed. Kind of aggravating because this was my fear of an electric shift. I really wanted a manual but decided on electric. Am I doing something wrong or is it my oil level? Just changed oil to Mobil 4T semi synthetic.

[Chupaca]

can be affected but it is also as oil temp rise anyway. Not a good idea to run it overfilled the machine is going to find a place to spit it out usually the air box which in turn may dribble it out creating a mess. Keep it at full or below. Suck some out cause 1/2" over is a lot...

[billybovine]

Can the oil level affect shifting if its a little over filled? Mine is like a 1/2" over the full mark when hot and I haven't had a chance to extract any yet. But the shifting seems OK except when I've been riding for a while. I normally shift around 5100 rpm but after riding a while and the temps are hot I have to shift into 2nd around 5600 rpm so I don't have delayed shifting. All others gears and downshifts are OK. Every once in a while 3rd will be delayed. Kind of aggravating because this was my fear of an electric shift. I really wanted a manual but decided on electric. Am I doing something wrong or is it my oil level? Just changed oil to Mobil 4T semi synthetic.

Oil level does not affect shifting until the oil level gets more than a quart low. That is well below the add line.

How you handle the throttle during the shift has a dramatic effect on how long the computer decides to take to feather in the clutch. If you are adding throttle during the shift it will sometimes take stupid long time.

[jroberts650]

Oil level does not affect shifting until the oil level gets more than a quart low. That is well below the add line.

How you handle the throttle during the shift has a dramatic effect on how long the computer decides to take to feather in the clutch. If you are adding throttle during the shift it will sometimes take stupid long time.

Well normally I shift while accelerating as soon as I get to 5100 rpm. Sometimes if I'm behind someone slow or turning and I keep a steady rpm right at shift point, when I accelerate and shift it usually has a delay in shifting up. How can i prevent this or what's the right way to approach shifting to minimize delay. I don't ever back off the throttle when shifting either.

[jroberts650]

can be affected but it is also as oil temp rise anyway. Not a good idea to run it overfilled the machine is going to find a place to spit it out usually the air box which in turn may dribble it out creating a mess. Keep it at full or below. Suck some out cause 1/2" over is a lot...

I will suck some out tomorrow morning first thing, thanks.

[billybovine]

Well normally I shift while accelerating as soon as I get to 5100 rpm. Sometimes if I'm behind someone slow or turning and I keep a steady rpm right at shift point, when I accelerate and shift it usually has a delay in shifting up. How can i prevent this or what's the right way to approach shifting to minimize delay. I don't ever back off the throttle when shifting either.

Accelerating is fine just make sure you add the throttle before the shift and hold it steady during, it will give you a quick yet smooth clutch engagement. Play with it you will get what I mean.

[Omcge]

Can the oil level affect shifting if its a little over filled? Mine is like a 1/2" over the full mark when hot and I haven't had a chance to extract any yet. But the shifting seems OK except when I've been riding for a while. I normally shift around 5100 rpm but after riding a while and the temps are hot I have to shift into 2nd around 5600 rpm so I don't have delayed shifting. All others gears and downshifts are OK. Every once in a while 3rd will be delayed. Kind of aggravating because this was my fear of an electric shift. I really wanted a manual but decided on electric. Am I doing something wrong or is it my oil level? Just changed oil to Mobil 4T semi synthetic.

I ran mine over filled for about a 1000 miles and never noticed any leaking or blowing out. I don't think it is as critical as some make it out to be. there is quite a bit of space in the tank above the fill line.
I get a smother shift by easing off the throttle just a little bit when I shift.

[jroberts650]

Accelerating is fine just make sure you add the throttle before the shift and hold it steady during, it will give you a quick yet smooth clutch engagement. Play with it you will get what I mean.

OK I'll try your suggestion. I've put 1000 miles on it since I've had it so I'm not really sure how the previous owners treated it. Hoping it wasn't anything to do with clutch or clutch disks. Just paranoid.

[Bob Denman]

The RTs seem to be less-affected by high oil situations. They don't seem as likely, to try and pack it into the airbox!

[jroberts650]

The RTs seem to be less-affected by high oil situations. They don't seem as likely, to try and pack it into the airbox!

I also read some posts where the RT's had some problems with the clutch bearings and weights causing the delay also in certain models. Should I call the service center and see if mine has been in before for that problem. I'm sure if it had a recall the dealer would have checked any open recalls and performed any necessary service before I purchased.

[Illinois Boy]

Can the oil level affect shifting if its a little over filled? Mine is like a 1/2" over the full mark when hot and I haven't had a chance to extract any yet. But the shifting seems OK except when I've been riding for a while. I normally shift around 5100 rpm but after riding a while and the temps are hot I have to shift into 2nd around 5600 rpm so I don't have delayed shifting. All others gears and downshifts are OK. Every once in a while 3rd will be delayed. Kind of aggravating because this was my fear of an electric shift. I really wanted a manual but decided on electric. Am I doing something wrong or is it my oil level? Just changed oil to Mobil 4T semi synthetic.

Sounds like your habits of manual shifting could be partly to blame.

As the manual states, do not roll-off the throttle when shifting, despite those stating otherwise. I used to roll-off out of habit, but learned quickly the shifts are much improved when holding it steady. So... the engineers and their manual is correct.

The same holds true for accelerating; although there will always be one or two who will debate that also. Simply be sure to hold the throttle steady when hitting the paddle-shifter. See if you do not see improvement with a little practice. It will take some getting used to and to change some old-engrained habits.

If you do not, then you should have the dealer look at it to make sure you do not have another issue; like cracked vacuum hoses, or a shifting sensor going out (although I doubt either at this point).

In reviews of the SE system by expert riders, a majority of them preferred the performance of the SE over the manual once they were able to master it. I feel exactly the same, once you learn how to maximize it. However, some still like the idea of doing their own shifting, and I understand that 100%.

Having said that, if you have experience on a tight racing bike (dirt or street), personally I do not believe you will ever get that performance from the manual or SE Spyders. At least I haven't.

[mpapatonis]

I'm having the EXACT SAME ISSUE on my 2010 RT-S. First to second has a delay and even a clunk sometimes. Once in a while from second to third as well. Seems to happen more after the engine is warm just like you said.

My oil level is right on the money and I'm consistent on the throttle. Something else must be going on with this model year.

[jroberts650]

I'm having the EXACT SAME ISSUE on my 2010 RT-S. First to second has a delay and even a clunk sometimes. Once in a while from second to third as well. Seems to happen more after the engine is warm just like you said.

My oil level is right on the money and I'm consistent on the throttle. Something else must be going on with this model year.

Yep exactly the same with me. Seems to do it more when warm but not always. If it delays to 2nd one time, I will shift at 5500-5600 rpm the next time and I will shift like its should. I never back off and always hold a steady speed while shifting.

[mpapatonis]

I've been searching for a solution for over a week now. Drives me nutty.

[jroberts650]

I've been searching for a solution for over a week now. Drives me nutty.

Me too. I may check out the vacuum lines.

[mpapatonis]

Please keep me posted and I'll do the same.

I know exactly what you mean about it being worse if you maintain a speed or slow down in first before you accelerate and shift. Seems to shift smoother if you run it right up from zero and shift.

[jroberts650]

Please keep me posted and I'll do the same.

I know exactly what you mean about it being worse if you maintain a speed or slow down in first before you accelerate and shift. Seems to shift smoother if you run it right up from zero and shift.

I certainly will.

[jroberts650]

Just got back from riding 50 miles and no delay at all. Shifted into 2nd at 4800 rpm and all others 5100rpm. No problems or delays.

[mpapatonis]

Mine was good today too. Strange how intermittent it can be. My ride was short though.

[spydajohn]

Your oil level should not have any effect on you're gear change because it's not like a normal bike where the dip stick is in the gear box and oil levels are critical .the spyder has a reservoir oil tank and it is pumped from there into the engine and keeps it at a constant pressure so the only way the level can effect your gearbox is if it runs very low and the pump has no supply ,this will put it in limp mode.the thing that will effect it the most is the type of oil you use .the temps where I live only go below 20 for about 2to3 weeks a year and go as high as 40c so I found that using 10w50 was better for gear changes and for the engine ,by doing this I don't get oil in my air box now and I burn less .this is something that brp can only guess because they don't know where you live .maybe you might even need to have different grades of oil for summer and winter to improve your gear changes.just my thoughts from the other side of the world and hope this mite help.

[jroberts650]

Your oil level should not have any effect on you're gear change because it's not like a normal bike where the dip stick is in the gear box and oil levels are critical .the spyder has a reservoir oil tank and it is pumped from there into the engine and keeps it at a constant pressure so the only way the level can effect your gearbox is if it runs very low and the pump has no supply ,this will put it in limp mode.the thing that will effect it the most is the type of oil you use .the temps where I live only go below 20 for about 2to3 weeks a year and go as high as 40c so I found that using 10w50 was better for gear changes and for the engine ,by doing this I don't get oil in my air box now and I burn less .this is something that brp can only guess because they don't know where you live .maybe you might even need to have different grades of oil for summer and winter to improve your gear changes.just my thoughts from the other side of the world and hope this mite help.

You know I never thought of the oil weight before. I ended up using Mobil 4T 10-40. Maybe you're right because I live in SC and we have been having some low 90's and very high humidity lately when the shifting has been delayed. I noticed when I rode the other night in the 70's I never had any delayed shifting. So maybe the oil does need to be thicker during the summer. maybe I need to run the 10w-50. That may be the problem.