I know that you're supposed to warm the engine up before checking the oil, but I've seen different input on when to pull the dipstick. Some people have said to check it within 30 seconds; others have said to wait 30-60 seconds. As you can imagine, these give two different results.
So, for real, what is correct? As always, thanks in advance for any feedback.
Michael
You call it a midlife crisis. I call it all the things I wanted to do!
I come in from a ryde..take off my helmet, gloves, and jacket then pull the panel and check. I'm not sure how much time that all takes but that works for me. Mostly the wait is for any foaming to bubble down but main thing is the engine is at running temp. The whole run the engine for whatever time from cold moves the oil but a higher viscosity running temps is where your oil will be working the hardest and be most spread out. So for real..I don't know..
Gene and Ilana De Laney Mt. Helix, California
2012 RS sm5
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
That's pretty much how I do it, right or wrong. However, I doubt 30 or so seconds makes that much difference in the oil level.
Like Chupie said, the key is to get the engine good and hot. Don't just go around the block and call it good. Go for at least 15 minutes of spirited riding or more. Then check it.
The instructions in the owners manual would indicate you don't have a lot of time, since it directs you to remove the panel, first . . . I pull in to the garage, leave it running, remove the panel, shut it off, and check the oil, right away . . .
"Topper" is my Pearl White 2013 RT-LTD
Professional Retiree - liked it so much when I retired from the USAF, that I started another career so I could do it again!
Happy to be a member of the Maryland Spyder Web - find us at
I know that you're supposed to warm the engine up before checking the oil, but I've seen different input on when to pull the dipstick. Some people have said to check it within 30 seconds; others have said to wait 30-60 seconds. As you can imagine, these give two different results.
So, for real, what is correct? As always, thanks in advance for any feedback.
I made this up right after I purchase the 2008 spyder, PE# 301, by the time I unscrew the dip stick I can measure the oil and get a good reading.
I go for a ride, the longer the better, like all day. When I get home I park the spyder in the garage shut it off remove my riding gear then remove the panel and check the oil.
Just changed my oil. Added three quarts and checked level. Stick showed over full. Ran the bike and the level did not show at all. Added another quart, ran bike and level just showed on the bottom of the stick.
The owners manual states that you can check oil level cold. It should just show on the bottom of the stick.
It does not state that you need to run the bike first. But after my little "test", it appears that you do need to run the bike first.
The Spyder is a dry sump system. As long as there is oil in the tank, the engine internals are getting the proper amount of oil. So running a little low is okay. So is running a little high.
In a dry sump system, the oil for the engine is supplied by the tank. The tank is where the oil dip stick is located. The oil in the tank is not lubricating the engine in the same way a wet sump engine works. If you add too much to a wet sump system, you will get foaming, you will lose power and the crankshaft now has to fight the higher oil level. Too little and the crank may not get the proper amount of oil. Take a sharp turn or brake too hard and the oil pump is certain to cavitate.
Dry sump systems have some "fudge" factor built in. This is why most race cars use a dry sump system and not a wet sump. A dry sump system is more expensive and complicated than a wet sump system. If the tank has oil, the engine is supplied with the proper amount of lubrication. But, running in the driveway and on the street are different things. Braking or turning can starve the oil pump if you are too low. The oil may slosh to the side and expose the supply hose for the engine to air instead of oil. Too much and the tank may get too full and prevent the oil moving through the engine.
So it appears to me that BRP wants the tank about half full. The dip stick seams to go about half way in the tank. A little high or a little low is nothing to panic about.
Still, it is best to try for the exact level. If you are within a quarter inch on the stick, I think your fine. At least you are checking the level and won't run dry.
Enjoy the ride.
You REALLY need to follow the instructions EXACTLY as printed in the manual...
It ain't "rocket surgery"!
And it's even clear enough that I can manage to get the job done...
Originally Posted by Dragonfly
Found that a Turkey Baster and a short piece of tubing work great. Insert the Baster into the oil filler whole and mark it where it stops. Insert tubing in the end of the Turkey Baster (1/4 " works well used for ice maker) measure from top of dip stick to about the 3/4 full mark and cut off tubing as measured from mark on Turkey Baster. (Then before Thanksgiving buy a new Turkey Baster)
I cut off the tubing just fine. . . . . . Then an aw s--- . . . . . . . . The leftover cut end of the tubing was STILL IN THE TANK!!! How dumb can you get So about 5 or 6 inches of LLDPE tubing was inside my oil tank. Spent the next two hours fishing it out. Prolly wouldn't have hurt anything (after consulting the shop manual) but better safe than sorry. Lesson for the rest of you, take the tube OUT OF THE TANK before you cut it.
Take Care,
Allen B.
Checking The Oil For Real
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Originally Posted by mpapatonis
Don't do what I did
Originally Posted by Dragonfly 
So about 5 or 6 inches of LLDPE tubing was inside my oil tank.
Spent the next two hours fishing it out. Prolly wouldn't have hurt anything (after consulting the shop manual) but better safe than sorry. Lesson for the rest of you, take the tube OUT OF THE TANK before you cut it.
