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Originally Posted by dndfindley
Car tires have been shown to last a lot longer but BRP put the Kenda's on there for a reason and I'm sticking with it.
Profit
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As I see it..!!
Couple of things I noticed from ryders I have met. Some don't know which is the wear bar and which is the rain blocks. Shoddy dealers have convinced them they needed new tires before they really did. I ryde hard and just now changed my oem Kenda at 20,000 miles. I run a bit low on the air pressure so to get full contact at speeds and even wear. The other factor is the actual road construction and roads traveled, the weather and tire temps reached while ryding. There is the model roadster and the ryder. The 14's I feel have the problem that many are upgrading and are used to cranking down to get to the torque range at higher rpms. The increased horse power and the low end torque is wearing the tires out quicker and they feel they got a bad batch as well. I don't throw the milk out because the sell by date has passed, I do when it comes out like cottage cheese... Jmo
Gene and Ilana De Laney
Mt. Helix, California
2012 RS sm5
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
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Originally Posted by dndfindley
Acceptable or not that is about the norm for OEM. I have 8500 miles on mine and it's down to the wear bars but I think I can make it until I have the 9300 mile service done and then I'll have the dealer mount another Kenda OEM while it's in for routine service. Car tires have been shown to last a lot longer but BRP put the Kenda's on there for a reason and I'm sticking with it.
I understand those who have this approach.
BRP certainly has a reason for every component installed (or not installed). But to assume that the reason is 'Best Possible Part or Component for the job' is going to be off the mark. In general, the truth is that BRP (or any manufacturer) is going to use the materials which at least meet the minimum requirements needed to achieve the established goal for the least amount of cost.
In other words, you're looking at a weighted matrix which determines the quality of each component. Highest quality and best possible performance are seldom of greatest concern. And for good reason. You might be looking at a $250,000.00 machine if BRP approached the Spyder in this way. Plus the fact that most would not necessarily need or appreciate 'The Very Best' of everything.
Every vehicle is a compromise, including our Spyder. Some components are worth upgrading, some are not. This depends as much on the individuals needs/wants as it does in the quality of the original component.
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Originally Posted by Chupaca
Couple of things I noticed from ryders I have met. Some don't know which is the wear bar and which is the rain blocks. Shoddy dealers have convinced them they needed new tires before they really did. I ryde hard and just now changed my oem Kenda at 20,000 miles. I run a bit low on the air pressure so to get full contact at speeds and even wear. The other factor is the actual road construction and roads traveled, the weather and tire temps reached while ryding. There is the model roadster and the ryder. The 14's I feel have the problem that many are upgrading and are used to cranking down to get to the torque range at higher rpms. The increased horse power and the low end torque is wearing the tires out quicker and they feel they got a bad batch as well. I don't throw the milk out because the sell by date has passed, I do when it comes out like cottage cheese... Jmo
I've been thinking my rear tire was at the wear bars, but after your comments, maybe I have been looking at the rain blocks
Will have to have another more careful look. Thanks
2008 GS SM5, Full Moon Silver
2007 Piaggio MP3 - 250cc
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Originally Posted by Chupaca
Couple of things I noticed from ryders I have met. Some don't know which is the wear bar and which is the rain blocks. Shoddy dealers have convinced them they needed new tires before they really did. I ryde hard and just now changed my oem Kenda at 20,000 miles. I run a bit low on the air pressure so to get full contact at speeds and even wear. The other factor is the actual road construction and roads traveled, the weather and tire temps reached while ryding. There is the model roadster and the ryder. The 14's I feel have the problem that many are upgrading and are used to cranking down to get to the torque range at higher rpms. The increased horse power and the low end torque is wearing the tires out quicker and they feel they got a bad batch as well. I don't throw the milk out because the sell by date has passed, I do when it comes out like cottage cheese... Jmo
Very True! And some get more out of a tire than others....
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Tires
Originally Posted by BajaRon
Stock size, 225-50-15
It would be nice to find a slightly larger rear tire to get closer on actual speed. But as far as I know they didn't make this in a 225-55-15.
I used a 215/60/15 and it puts the speedo very close.
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Originally Posted by Highwayman2013
I used a 215/60/15 and it puts the speedo very close.
One of the good tire size choices. You trade some tread width for a more accurate speedo/odometer.
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Originally Posted by Highwayman2013
I used a 215/60/15 and it puts the speedo very close.
As a tire guy i can tell you 215x60R15 is a performance downgrade that would be noticeable at highway speeds & exit ramps.
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Originally Posted by dndfindley
Thailand? Seriously?
Why not ? The OEM Kenda is made in China.
- Bob
2014 Spyder Ltd. Silver Platinum Satin
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The mark..!!
Originally Posted by oldgoat
I've been thinking my rear tire was at the wear bars, but after your comments, maybe I have been looking at the rain blocks
Will have to have another more careful look. Thanks
If you look hard turning a whole revolution you will find a small triangle on the side of the tire. Across from that is the wear limit see picture below...
20140408_173906.jpg hope you can see it...
Gene and Ilana De Laney
Mt. Helix, California
2012 RS sm5
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
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Originally Posted by SPECTACUALR SPIDERMAN
As a tire guy i can tell you 215x60R15 is a performance downgrade that would be noticeable at highway speeds & exit ramps.
I guess that would probably be true if you were talking about using the same model tire with only a change in size. But if you upgrade to a significantly higher UTQG rated tire, the one centimeter difference in width would probably be overcome by the higher quality construction and materials used in the new tire.
I run a 215-60-15 Michelin hyrdoedge, and I can personally attest that it performs better than the kenda, in every single aspect of riding, including highway speeds, where it balloons significantly less. Even treadwear, which we all know is a shortcoming of the kenda.
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Originally Posted by SPECTACUALR SPIDERMAN
As a tire guy i can tell you 215x60R15 is a performance downgrade that would be noticeable at highway speeds & exit ramps.
Not to argue, just curios.
What would be the performance downgrade?
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Originally Posted by BajaRon
Not to argue, just curios.
What would be the performance downgrade?
Yes please explain this down grade. Michelin Primacy 215/60/15
2016 F3 Limited
2019 Ryker Rally
2014 Suzuki V Strom 650
2020 CSC TT 250
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Originally Posted by definitely
Acceptable or not that is about the norm for OEM. I have 8500 miles on mine and it's down to the wear bars but I think I can make it until I have the 9300 mile service done and then I'll have the dealer mount another Kenda OEM while it's in for routine service. Car tires have been shown to last a lot longer but BRP put the Kenda's on there for a reason and I'm sticking with it.
I rolled the dice and rode my bike home(2000km). I was on a road trip and no where near home when I first noticed my tire. Rear tire is now worn down in the middle almost like a racing slick(no wear bars or noticable tread left). I ran 28psi in the rear from the time I got the bike. Mileage now at 92k(aprox 5700miles) and I can't get in at my dealer for replacement until the 17th. I will for sure go with the Kuma....or another but deffinetly no more Kenda's.
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Originally Posted by dndfindley
Thailand? Seriously?
As someone already pointed out, the Kenda is made in China. There are probably some car tires made in the U.S. that will hopefully fit the Spyder. That is your call.
My trailer tires for my toy hauler are also made in Thailand. They are the best ten ply tires currently on the market. I would have bought the American made Goodyears if they even offered a ten ply. The Goodyears have also earned a pretty bad reputation among those with trailers for premature wear and failure. As much as I try to buy U.S. made product, sometimes it makes more sense to buy the best product. Not every product made overseas is crap. Oh...and those tires I bought were more expensive than the Goodyears even in the same ply count.
WackyDan - Fun, not crazy.
Charlotte (Matthews), NC
Silver Moon SM5 - V35 and V46 Givis, CHAD, Motolight 35w steering lights, Dash Powerlets, Helibar risers, Garage door opener, Eastern Beaver PC-8, Digital voltmeter, Kewl Metal Intake, Evoluzione Sway Bar, RT Shocks and Juice Box PRO.
*Mower deck in development*
2008 model -new in crate, April 09
26,000 miles.
Looking for other Charlotte area riders to cruise with and compare Spyders.
HAPPY SPYDER OWNER
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Originally Posted by Chupaca
Couple of things I noticed from ryders I have met. Some don't know which is the wear bar and which is the rain blocks. Shoddy dealers have convinced them they needed new tires before they really did. I ryde hard and just now changed my oem Kenda at 20,000 miles. I run a bit low on the air pressure so to get full contact at speeds and even wear. The other factor is the actual road construction and roads traveled, the weather and tire temps reached while ryding. There is the model roadster and the ryder. The 14's I feel have the problem that many are upgrading and are used to cranking down to get to the torque range at higher rpms. The increased horse power and the low end torque is wearing the tires out quicker and they feel they got a bad batch as well. I don't throw the milk out because the sell by date has passed, I do when it comes out like cottage cheese... Jmo
I know which is the rain blocks & wear blocks. I am through the rain blocks and well into the wear blocks at 4750 miles. I have been lowering pressure to try to get more life out of them. But how low can I go? Either way no change the center still wears fast. It has nothing to do with the 14 RT and the 1330 engine, I am on my ST-L and I feel I will be lucky to see 6500 miles out of the oem tire.
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We have also been told by BRP techs that they got a bad batch of tires.
I have burned through many tires in my 75,000 miles on three spyders, a few of the OEM Kenda, some of the Kumhos, a couple of the Maxxis Vectras, and am now using the Toyo Proxes, which is also discontinued like the Kumho. The Kumhos were OK, the Maxxis was better, the Toyo Proxes was the best for traction and performance. I bought six of them when I learned they were discontinued. BajaRon likes this one as well, comes in the OEM size. I would not hesitate to again run the Maxxis Vectra, that is what I have on my original 2008 #006 Spyder right now.
It all depends on what your criteria is - longevity, cost, traction, wet pavement performance, speed rating, sidewall flex, what do YOU want? I know that I want a tire that is going to hold together at 100+ MPH, one that is going to grip the road when it is wet, one that lasts longer than the latest POS Kenda, one that isn't going to pop me $150 each time it is bald. The Kumho is getting tough to find, I know riders like this one but it is only fair at best. It IS perfectly OK to run a different size, preferably as close to stock diameter as possible. I have made many posts on what is acceptable size-wize, as have many others. I run my spyders long and hard, limit seeker for sure, and I know my nanny well, with stock and non-stock tires.
Bottom line, the latest Kenda rear tires are not lasting as long as the previous ones, and I REFUSE to replace the rear tire every time the oil is changed!
2021 RT Limited - Deep Marsala Red – 4,200 miles
2013 ST-S SE-5 - Circuit Yellow – 56,000 miles
2015 F3-S SM-6 - Can-Am Red Solid Gloss – 2,000 miles - SOLD
2008 GS SM-5 Premier Edition #659 - Full Moon – 34,000 miles - SOLD
2008 GS SM-5 Premier Edition #006 - Full Moon – 34,800 miles - SOLD
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THIS IS THE REASON FOR THE KENDA'S
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I'm probably the only one that actually likes my Kendas.....[emoji12]
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Originally Posted by Chupaca
If you look hard turning a whole revolution you will find a small triangle on the side of the tire. Across from that is the wear limit see picture below...
20140408_173906.jpg hope you can see it...
Thank you.
Found it & have 5/32nds still to go, so OK for a good while
2008 GS SM5, Full Moon Silver
2007 Piaggio MP3 - 250cc
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Car tire is on
Finally had a car tire mounted on the Spyder. WOW. What an improvement in the handling. Sticks to the curves like it was glued there. No more swishy rear in the turns. Don't know about the mileage yet. Too soon to tell. Will keep you posted.
Also had the Sirius antenna moved to the outside of the trunk. Totally solved the missed signal.
All is good.
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