Recommended synthetic oil brand/weight for hot states?

[StealthSpyder]

Hey guys,

I live in South Florida....hot pretty much year round!!

What is a good recommended synthetic oil for the spyder? Something that I can pickup at advanced auto or napa auto parts would be ideal so I don't have the high shipping costs of heavy oil thru the mail.

I did a forum search and I saw one thread on Amsoil 10W-40...is this the go-to brand that is generally agreed upon being the best for our rotax 990? Do the auto parts stores carry this?

Thanks!

[BajaRon]

Hey guys,

I live in South Florida....hot pretty much year round!!

What is a good recommended synthetic oil for the spyder? Something that I can pickup at advanced auto or napa auto parts would be ideal so I don't have the high shipping costs of heavy oil thru the mail.

I did a forum search and I saw one thread on Amsoil 10W-40...is this the go-to brand that is generally agreed upon being the best for our rotax 990? Do the auto parts stores carry this?

Thanks!

Some are using 20w-50 but BRP recommends only 10w-40 weight oil. A high quality 10w-40 should work in any climate.

[lyonsden]

Hey guys,

I live in South Florida....hot pretty much year round!!

What is a good recommended synthetic oil for the spyder? Something that I can pickup at advanced auto or napa auto parts would be ideal so I don't have the high shipping costs of heavy oil thru the mail.

I did a forum search and I saw one thread on Amsoil 10W-40...is this the go-to brand that is generally agreed upon being the best for our rotax 990? Do the auto parts stores carry this?

Thanks!

I've been using Castrol Power RS Racing 4T Oil. It is full synthetic. Almost $10 per quart. I buy it at Advance Auto here. No problems, been running it for a couple of years now. I think Castrol makes the BRP oil. I might be mistaken but I read that somewhere.

[Chupaca]

I use the summer blend can am XPS kits. Comes with filters orings washers and oil. Free shipping on ebay for $56.00 a bit more for the se models.

[StealthSpyder]

Some are using 20w-50 but BRP recommends only 10w-40 weight oil. A high quality 10w-40 should work in any climate.

Ron...is BRP's 10W-40 spyder oil a true Type IV Ester based oil? I know that is the type of oil that you recommend and I am just wondering if BRP's 10W-40 is a type IV ester based oil.

[MikeinGA]

Ron...is BRP's 10W-40 spyder oil a true Type IV Ester based oil? I know that is the type of oil that you recommend and I am just wondering if BRP's 10W-40 is a type IV ester based oil.

The Spyders were made to use full synthetic motorcycle oil and the SE5 shifting system work much better with full synthetic motorcycle oil. I'm in Ga. and never had a problem with Amsoil 10W-40 full synthetic motorcycle oil it's one of the best oils made. That's IMHO.

Mike

[HuckFin]

Some are using 20w-50 but BRP recommends only 10w-40 weight oil. A high quality 10w-40 should work in any climate.

My 2013 service manual states in the technical section to use XPS synthetic blend (summer blend) or a 5x40 motorcycle oil. (semi-synthetic (minimum) or synthetic) meeting the requirements API service SL SJ SH or SG classification. With that said I may be going to 10x40 Amsoil next time around, but I think I will research it a little more first.

[mikecronis]

Wondering if Molybdenum is required for clutch operation on an SE5? One could use Mobil-1 MX4T 10-40 if that's the case. My Honda bikes don't want Moly according to the manual. If not, Mobil-1 10W-40 is $4.99 a quart at WalMart and is as good as Amsoil as one of the few last remaining true synthetics that don't use paraffin as well as Repsol.

[BajaRon]

Ron...is BRP's 10W-40 spyder oil a true Type IV Ester based oil? I know that is the type of oil that you recommend and I am just wondering if BRP's 10W-40 is a type IV ester based oil.

Without doing more research, to the best of my knowledge both the synthetic component in the blended oil and the full synthetic are type III, mineral based oils with and additive package.

[jtoro1]

Hey guys,

I live in South Florida....hot pretty much year round!!

What is a good recommended synthetic oil for the spyder? Something that I can pickup at advanced auto or napa auto parts would be ideal so I don't have the high shipping costs of heavy oil thru the mail.

I did a forum search and I saw one thread on Amsoil 10W-40...is this the go-to brand that is generally agreed upon being the best for our rotax 990? Do the auto parts stores carry this?

Thanks!

I use valvoline motorcycle oil 10-40w synthetic from Wal-Mart 8.47

[billybovine]

Some are using 20w-50 but BRP recommends only 10w-40 weight oil. A high quality 10w-40 should work in any climate.

BRP recommends a 5W-40 weight oil.

[billybovine]

I've been using Castrol Power RS Racing 4T Oil. It is full synthetic. Almost $10 per quart. I buy it at Advance Auto here. No problems, been running it for a couple of years now. I think Castrol makes the BRP oil. I might be mistaken but I read that somewhere.

From my research Castrol has not made oil for BRP since at least 2008.

[billybovine]

Ron...is BRP's 10W-40 spyder oil a true Type IV Ester based oil? I know that is the type of oil that you recommend and I am just wondering if BRP's 10W-40 is a type IV ester based oil.

BRP's synthetic oil is 0W-40 weight and blended 5W-40 weight.

[BajaRon]

BRP's synthetic oil is 0W-40 weight and blended 5W-40 weight.

The original spec oil was 5w-40 and 10w-40. They were Castrol products but I don't know what BRP is using now.

The lower number is not all that critical unless you're storing your Spyder in sub zero temps. Snowmobiles have more need for the low number than most (if any) Spyders.

Couple this with the fact that the bigger the percentage spread between the lower number and the higher number, the greater the propensity for viscosity loss, and a 10w-40 oil looks better and better.

Frankly, I would be happy with a 15w-40 oil. 15w is plenty thin to flow quickly and crank readily to temps down into the 20's. And the lower spread would help to maintain the viscosity index over time.

[DrewNJ]

If I were running in a hot climate all the time I'd be mixing in a quart of 20w50.
However, currently I just run the BRP kit year round with no issues.

[M109Dreamer]

We live in AZ and use Amsoil 10w-40 and will continue to do so. It handles the 100+ degree temps here just fine.

[StealthSpyder]

This is a high-level oil discussion and I'm enjoying it, thanks for the input so far all! Ron...any 15w40 synthetics out there?

If I were running in a hot climate all the time I'd be mixing in a quart of 20w50.
However, currently I just run the BRP kit year round with no issues.

That's interesting...can you elaborate as to how that oil differs and why it would be more beneficial in a hot climate year round?

[BajaRon]

This is a high-level oil discussion and I'm enjoying it, thanks for the input so far all! Ron...any 15w40 synthetics out there?

There may be a true synthetic, Type IV 15w-40 out there. Rotella makes a 15w-40 but it isn't good for wet clutches.

(In reference to using a mix of 10w-40 and 20w-50)

That's interesting...can you elaborate as to how that oil differs and why it would be more beneficial in a hot climate year round?

Heat tends to thin oil. It's just a matter of raising the viscosity level by mixing a thicker oil with a thinner oil. If you did the math you could figure out what 3 quarts of 10w-40 + 1 quart of 20w-50 would work out to. Some feel better with a thicker oil. But thicker is not always better. Otherwise, we'd all be running 90w-140!

As always, we are looking at another trade-off.

Advantages to thinner oil (lower viscosity).
Pumps easier and quicker. Will lubricate parts at start-up more quickly (when 80% of wear occurs)
Gets between close tolerance parts easier and more quickly
Less HP to pump means more HP to rear wheel (better fuel mileage)
Less resistance (drag) on parts - engine/transmission spins easier (better fuel mileage)
Transfers heat better than thicker oil - lower engine temps
Wipes off cylinder walls more easily (may burn less oil)

Disadvantages to thinner oil (lower viscosity)
May not have enough viscosity to adequately protect engine parts (higher wear - Increased temperatures)
May require more frequent oil changes (higher costs)
Viscosity is more likely to drop below safe levels in fewer miles
May slip by rings more easily (higher oil usage)

You can pretty much reverse these for a higher viscosity oil.

The rule of thumb is that you want to use the thinnest (lowest viscosity) oil you can and still provide adequate lubrication to all parts at all times. All of these factors are taken into consideration when a lubricant is recommended by the manufacturer.

[Jeriatric]

Mobil 1 synthetic 4T 10w40 & V twin 20w50 spec sheet.

http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lub...ycle_Oils.aspx


(pdf) copy and paste the link below for Rotella T

Link > Page 1 Technical Data Sheet Shell Rotella® T Triple Protection

Above is spec sheet for Rotella 15w40 which is a dino oil - as far as being wet clutch compatible? Read the spec sheet.

Working from tablet so excuse the sequencing. Sometimes it will not cooperate.

[StealthSpyder]

There may be a true synthetic, Type IV 15w-40 out there. Rotella makes a 15w-40 but it isn't good for wet clutches.

(In reference to using a mix of 10w-40 and 20w-50)



Heat tends to thin oil. It's just a matter of raising the viscosity level by mixing a thicker oil with a thinner oil. If you did the math you could figure out what 3 quarts of 10w-40 + 1 quart of 20w-50 would work out to. Some feel better with a thicker oil. But thicker is not always better. Otherwise, we'd all be running 90w-140!

As always, we are looking at another trade-off.

Advantages to thinner oil (lower viscosity).
Pumps easier and quicker. Will lubricate parts at start-up more quickly (when 80% of wear occurs)
Gets between close tolerance parts easier and more quickly
Less HP to pump means more HP to rear wheel (better fuel mileage)
Less resistance (drag) on parts - engine/transmission spins easier (better fuel mileage)
Transfers heat better than thicker oil - lower engine temps
Wipes off cylinder walls more easily (may burn less oil)

Disadvantages to thinner oil (lower viscosity)
May not have enough viscosity to adequately protect engine parts (higher wear - Increased temperatures)
May require more frequent oil changes (higher costs)
Viscosity is more likely to drop below safe levels in fewer miles
May slip by rings more easily (higher oil usage)

You can pretty much reverse these for a higher viscosity oil.

The rule of thumb is that you want to use the thinnest (lowest viscosity) oil you can and still provide adequate lubrication to all parts at all times. All of these factors are taken into consideration when a lubricant is recommended by the manufacturer.

This is fantastic info and very educational, thank you!

Another thing I was wondering about is I can mix in, for instance, Amsoil 10w-40 in to top off my oil even though my engine is full of BRP's spyder oil right? Is Amsoil 10w-40 more viscous than BRP's spyder oil?

[Michael211_2000]

On this note, what if any oil additives are safe in these Rotax engines? I like to run a little STP oil treatment in my engines, and occasionally put some SeaFoam in the crankcase oil (most often when I'm ~100 miles or so from an oil change, just to help clean out any crud that's built up in the crankcase).

Are these additives safe for the Spyder engine if used as directed?

Thanks.

ps. Before my previous oil change I did top-off with some STP oil treatment and ran another 500 miles till the oil change with no noticeable harm. I've added a small amount of SeaFoam to the fuel tank after filling up on occasion, but haven't tried it in the Rotax crankcase oil yet...

- Michael

[DrewNJ]

Yes, you can mix and match with no issues.

Personally, I'm not into oil additives. Modern day oils are so good to the point where additional additives just aren't really needed.

[BajaRon]

On this note, what if any oil additives are safe in these Rotax engines? I like to run a little STP oil treatment in my engines, and occasionally put some SeaFoam in the crankcase oil (most often when I'm ~100 miles or so from an oil change, just to help clean out any crud that's built up in the crankcase).

Are these additives safe for the Spyder engine if used as directed?

Thanks.

ps. Before my previous oil change I did top-off with some STP oil treatment and ran another 500 miles till the oil change with no noticeable harm. I've added a small amount of SeaFoam to the fuel tank after filling up on occasion, but haven't tried it in the Rotax crankcase oil yet...

- Michael

I would definitely not use STP or any similar additive in the Spyder. You run a pretty good risk of clutch slippage. That is why there is a JASO rating on MC oils. Adding STP (or similar) is going to lower that JASO rating. Once your clutch starts slipping it is likely that you'll need an expensive clutch replacement. Definitely not worth it.

As mentioned by DrewNJ, current (good quality) oils are very good. Adding things to them is playing Russian Roulette with your motor. Again, just not worth it in my opinion.

Adding Sea-Foam type products to the crank case is going to lower your viscosity. This is also not good, especially with old oil that has already lost a great deal of viscosity due to shear, etc.

I would consider adding Sea Foam and running the engine without load (in your driveway) just before an oil change. The Sea Foam will clean the innards of your engine/transmission. But I would not add it with new oil. A lower viscosity isn't nearly as critical when the engine is not under load. But honestly, if you're doing timely oil and filter changes there is little, if any, 'Crud' buildup in your Rotax motor.

[Mortis]

I use an 10W-60 fully synthetic oil in my Spyder. The 60 grade can stand more heat and works very well.
The problem with an oil that is not after JASO is that the ash content normally is to high and will make the clutch slip. (JASO say lower than 1,2%)Sulfate Ash= sulfur and phosphorus

I have been testing a car oil ACEA A3/B4 (API SM, SL, CF) 10W-60 fully synthetic in a BMW S1000RR super bike and this works very well.(ash content was 1,3%)
NO clutch slipping after one season.

An JASO spec oil will never get the same performance as a car spec oil because you can not additivate it so high (Some of the additives will give to high ash content and make the clutch slip)

[MikeinGA]

I would definitely not use STP or any similar additive in the Spyder. You run a pretty good risk of clutch slippage. That is why there is a JASO rating on MC oils. Adding STP (or similar) is going to lower that JASO rating. Once your clutch starts slipping it is likely that you'll need an expensive clutch replacement. Definitely not worth it.

As mentioned by DrewNJ, current (good quality) oils are very good. Adding things to them is playing Russian Roulette with your motor. Again, just not worth it in my opinion.

Adding Sea-Foam type products to the crank case is going to lower your viscosity. This is also not good, especially with old oil that has already lost a great deal of viscosity due to shear, etc.

I would consider adding Sea Foam and running the engine without load (in your driveway). A lower viscosity isn't nearly as critical when the engine is not under load. But honestly, if you're doing timely oil and filter changes there is little, if any, 'Crud' buildup in your Rotax motor.

What you want to do is go the Amsoil website and ask the professionals. I use Amsoil 10W-40 motorcycle oil here in Georgia and it lasts for 6,000 miles and is still in good condition and could used safely for another 1,000 miles. That's IMHO.

Mike