-
Are My Brakes Worn?
I have a 2009 RS SE5 with about 24,000 miles on it. Lately I have been getting a brake failure warning when going downhill while applying the brakes. When I level out it goes away. This happened to me last year and I added a little bit of brake fluid to the reservoirs and it went away.
I am pretty sure the pads are worn to the point the fluid is dropping in the reservoirs just enough to activate the warning. My question is, is there a specification on how thick the remaining material on the pads should be when it is time for replacement? I want to inspect the brakes this weekend and determine if they need to be replaced.
-
There is a minimum spec for pad thickness; I THINK that it's 1mm. But you'd better double-check that!
EDIT: I just checked the manual for my old 2010 RT, and for that bike, 1mm is the minimum. I just don't know if it's the same for your bike.
Last edited by Bob Denman; 06-13-2014 at 09:45 AM.
-
New brake pads are pretty inexpensive and easy to change yourself so for peace of mind why don't you go ahead and change them?
2017 F3T-SM6 Squared Away Mirror Wedgies & Alignment
2014 RTS-SM6 123,600 miles Sold 11/2017
2014 RTL-SE6 8,600 miles
2011 RTS-SM5 5,000 miles
2013 RTS-SM5 burned up with 13,200 miles in 13 weeks
2010 RTS-SM5 59,148 miles
2010 RT- 622
-
Very Active Member
It's time..!!
with that mileage I would have new pads on hand. By the time you get to checking the thickness you will have it all apart anyway might as well change them. If you are close and reassemble you will worry about it with every upcoming trip...will they last..?? Will I end up metal on metal and need new disk too..??
Gene and Ilana De Laney
Mt. Helix, California
2012 RS sm5
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
-
Very Active Member
thats a lot of miles on a set of brake pads... I would expect them to be shot... like the man says they don't cost much, and of course the life you save may be your own
220,000 Mile Spyder Ryder, IBA Premier member #59352, Saddlesore 1000 (11), Bun Burner 1500 (3), Saddlesore 2000 (2), Bun Burner Gold, MILEEATER SILVER
-
SpyderLovers Sponsor
-
Active Member
That would be my .02 also.
check your brake fluid, even a table spoon low can trip that sensor and the min for brake pads is probably the same for all the models, 1mm and I think the disc min is 5.33mm
-
Very Active Member
Also agree with the last two posters.
First line of defense, check the level of brake fluid in the brake fluid receptacle.
At 24K, brake pads are another consideration.
Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.
Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)
MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles
IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
-
Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Handymandbq
I have a 2009 RS SE5 with about 24,000 miles on it. Lately I have been getting a brake failure warning when going downhill while applying the brakes. When I level out it goes away. This happened to me last year and I added a little bit of brake fluid to the reservoirs and it went away.
I am pretty sure the pads are worn to the point the fluid is dropping in the reservoirs just enough to activate the warning. My question is, is there a specification on how thick the remaining material on the pads should be when it is time for replacement? I want to inspect the brakes this weekend and determine if they need to be replaced.
On my second set by then!!!!
Two Wheelers from 1963-2011
Three Wheelers:
2011 RT(Red)
2014 RT(white)
2016 F3T(red)
2022 RT current ride(silver)
__________________
2016 Slingshot
2018 Vanderhall
2019 Slingshot
-
Very Active Member
Originally Posted by BajaRon
Very likely that your pads are TOAST! You might even be into the rotor on the rear. But that should be making a racket.
My guess is the warning light has more to do with low fluid in your master cylinder than worn out brake pads (though one does cause the other). That's why the light goes away when you level out.
I wish Scotty would come back. He used to take care of all these questions for us!
I miss Scotty too. Always the mechanical words of wisdom.
Current: 2018 F3 Limited
Previous: 2011 RT with 622 Trailer
Mods:
F4 Customs 25" Windshield
F4 Customs Air Wings
Spyderpops Top Case/Seat Extender
TackForm Phone Mount
Lamonster Ram Ball Handlebar Mount
Show Chrome Passenger Armrests
-
SpyderLovers Sponsor
Originally Posted by lyonsden
I miss Scotty too. Always the mechanical words of wisdom.
True! Scotty was always right. I'm only right some of the time. And if you ask my wife.... Hhmmm, on second thought, let's not ask her...
Shop Ph: 423-609-7588 (M-F, 8-5, Eastern Time)
Only SLOW people have to leave on time...
-
Very Active Member
I've been absent for a long time... 5 yrs of daily posts and reads, I've expanding into other obsessions. Ha!
How do I know if I need new brake pads on my 2010 RTS ? It recently came back from service so they checked and filled fluids. But not inspection of brake pads. When I brake It "mushy" and seems a bit slow to stop.
How do I measure pads without removing them?
If they (front or rear) are below the 1mm level, where can I get a set?
Lastly, anyone have a link on a How to Change brake pads?
RT-S # 352; Timeless Black... faster than any other color. Mods: EasternBeaver PC8 Fuse Box, 12v digital dashboard display, RearTrunk internal Lights.
Pioneer XMP3 hardwired, KewlMetal highway foot rests, PolkAudio Speaker upgrades (dxi525 & dxi400), Custom Garmin Nuvi bracket and wiring, Panel Savers, Custom LED array third brake light and rear signal LED's. Custom mud flap lights. Daytime Running Lights (3wattsx6). Heated Corbin seat with 'Lamonster' cut. JBL 400watt Amp,
Other secret mods.
Posting Permissions
- You may not post new threads
- You may not post replies
- You may not post attachments
- You may not edit your posts
-
Forum Rules
|