Results of Amsoil 10W-40 lab test @ 4000 Mi

[MarkLawson]

This is the current approval for M1 10w40 moto oil as of May 2014

SN, JASO MA1
2006

According to the SN rating it meets the BRP spec, and as an SN rated, does not have the additional codes indicating additives or friction modifiers.

From what I read, it seems MA2 is less components bad for the catalytic converter.

If there is more or a reason to seek out an MA2, please explain.

Thanks
PK

I cannot speak to the codes as I don't know much about them. As suggested, it might be worthwhile to do a search concerning Mobil 1 (motorcycle blend) and it's use in the Spyder. Not all reported results were positive. The codes then also met BRP's requirements, but some of the real world results indicated problems. I love the oil myself & have run it in my Goldwings for many years.

[den1953]

I can't yet speak for the 1330 Rotax Can AM yet as I don't own one yet, but I do use this Amsoil in my Victory Cross Country. I don't push it to 9000 miles however and change mine every 6000 miles. My engine is oil & air cooled and probably runs hotter than your water cooled ones. I've never had my oil tested but I've never had a problem with Amsoil and changes at 6000 mile intervals. I'm no expert, but I do take good care of my rides and I feel that a 6000 mile oil change interval is more appropriate sounding than a 9000 mile one. Just my two cents worth.

[BikerDoc]

I ran 9300 to my 12300 mile maintenance with no oil use and barely did colored from translucent with brp blend

[ulflyer]

I ran 9300 to my 12300 mile maintenance with no oil use and barely did colored from translucent with brp blend

Doc, color doesn't mean anything relative to shearing. I guarantee that if you test yours at 5K you'll find the viscosity has sheared down to as little as 20 weight. If you plan on keeping your ACE a long time, and I imagine you do,
I'd recommend you test your favorite oil. Blackstone will send you free bottles and you mail it back with about $25, or you can get WIX samples online or from NAPA for a bit less. Unless I find some magic oil formula, I don't plan on exceeding 4000 miles between changes.

A friend of mine recently had BRP Blend put in her '12 and if
I can catch her at the 3-4K range I'll do a test on it. I've tested several oils, but never the BRP blend, and would like to know how it fares compared to other oils.

[SB1]

I ran Shell T6 in my Yamaha Tour Deluxe and Mobile 1 V Twin in my Ultra. Have not had any issue with either. I will run the T6 in my RTS 1330 and do the changes every 4500.

[ulflyer]

I ran Shell T6 in my Yamaha Tour Deluxe and Mobile 1 V Twin in my Ultra. Have not had any issue with either. I will run the T6 in my RTS 1330 and do the changes every 4500.

I've thought of that oil but theres so many interesting ones that
I wanted to test and never got around to it. Can I talk you into testing the t6 at 4000? I'd sure like to know how it fares.

Heres the type kit I use:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wix-24077-Oi...item35d6c02254

[SB1]

I've thought of that oil but theres so many interesting ones that I wanted to test and never got around to it. Can I talk you into testing the t6 at 4000? I'd sure like to know how it fares.

Will do, was thinking of doing that anyway. Just to be certain "Blackstone" is the lab you used, I like consistency?

[ulflyer]

Will do, was thinking of doing that anyway. Just to be certain "Blackstone" is the lab you used, I like consistency?

I've used Blackstone on my cars in the past and they are good, but have used only WIX on my previous '11 and now on '14 because I got a good deal on a doz of the prepaid kits. Wix uses a lab in Atlanta called ALS. Whichever you use, mail it in a brown puffy or box and ans "no" to the PO litany. While used oil is legal to mail, some clerks don't know it and won't accept your word. The test above on mine was mailed 2 Jun and I got an email report on 10 Jun.

[SB1]

I've used Blackstone on my cars in the past and they are good, but have used only WIX on my previous '11 and now on '14 because I got a good deal on a doz of the prepaid kits. Wix uses a lab in Atlanta called ALS. Whichever you use, mail it in a brown puffy or box and ans "no" to the PO litany. While used oil is legal to mail, some clerks don't know it and won't accept your word. The test above on mine was mailed 2 Jun and I got an email report on 10 Jun.

Will do, it will be a couple of months I am currently on the Dino oil with 1500 miles. I ride quite a bit so not to long.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

.So is BAJARON full of hooey about Amsoil..........? ? ? ? ?................His test reports appear to differ from yours ....Mikeguyver

[Ramjet]

You know this is interesting. I would like to see test results from different labs on the same oil from the machine.

I seriously question how any synthetic is shearing in 4000 miles of highway riding. maybe the machine is running too hot?

I would be more interested in the ferrous content along with other metals in the sample.

I change even with Amzoil every 4000 miles even in my cars.

[sddinnh]

The way it was explained to me in fluid dynamics is that the viscosity of oil is a byproduct of the long oil molecules in the oil. These long oil molecules are what rides between the surfaces for them to slide on. Over time. these molecules are essentially "chopped" up shorter and shorter by the transmission gears and the viscosity changes. Oil that runs only in engines (cars, bikes with separate transmission oil) is not subject the this and thus maintains it's viscosity longer. Oil that runs in both the engine and transmission does not maintain it's viscosity as long. Thats why transmissions generally run much heavier oil so it holds up longer by starting out heaver. JMHO and what I was taught

[DrewNJ]

A friend of mine recently had BRP Blend put in her '12 and if
I can catch her at the 3-4K range I'll do a test on it. I've tested several oils, but never the BRP blend, and would like to know how it fares compared to other oils.

please post up your findings if you do get the opportunity. this would be very interesting to see for sure!



Sent from my Venue 8 3830 using Tapatalk

[jcthorne]

The way it was explained to me in fluid dynamics is that the viscosity of oil is a byproduct of the long oil molecules in the oil. These long oil molecules are what rides between the surfaces for them to slide on. Over time. these molecules are essentially "chopped" up shorter and shorter by the transmission gears and the viscosity changes. Oil that runs only in engines (cars, bikes with separate transmission oil) is not subject the this and thus maintains it's viscosity longer. Oil that runs in both the engine and transmission does not maintain it's viscosity as long. Thats why transmissions generally run much heavier oil so it holds up longer by starting out heaver. JMHO and what I was taught

Actually modern transmissions are going to thinner and thinner oils. The latest Mercon LV is essentially a 0 weight oil but has a film strength better than 75w gear oil. The thinner oils flow better and have less drag for fuel efficiency. Weight and film strength are not directly related as they once were.

[ulflyer]

.So is BAJARON full of hooey about Amsoil..........? ? ? ? ?................His test reports appear to differ from yours ....Mikeguyver

Mike, I wouldn't touch that one with a 10 foot pole. I think too much of Ron to contradict him.

Perhaps its the results of us using different labs. All I know is that I had 6 tests done on the 998 using a variety of motorcycle oils, and now the first test on the 1330. Every one of these showed oil shearing significantly from 2000-3000 miles. I used the same lab ALS.

The question in my mind is, WHEN IS AN OIL TOO THIN? The labs say when it shears down significantly from its higher weight...in our case 40W. But look at most cars now using 0W-20! Surely BRP knows oil shears rapidly...this is nothing new in the bike world; almost all that share oil with gearbox/clutch experience this. Yet BRP says it ok to use their BLEND for 9000 miles? I can about guarantee you that by that time its 10W or so. BRP, is that fine with you?

So, until I get an informed answer about how thin I can run an oil, I'll keep checking mine till I come up with a solution that satisfys me. It need not suit others and I'm not trying to say any of you should follow my lead; just tossing out info as I get it as I know some others are also interested in oil results. Each of you need to do what makes you feel comfortable.

[sddinnh]

WHEN IS AN OIL TOO THIN? The labs say when it shears down significantly from its higher weight...in our case 40W. But look at most cars now using 0W-20! Surely BRP knows oil shears rapidly...this is nothing new in the bike world; almost all that share oil with gearbox/clutch experience this. Yet BRP says it ok to use their BLEND for 9000 miles? I can about guarantee you that by that time its 10W or so. BRP, is that fine with you?

That's a good question. But, I think I'll stick to 3-4000 miles changes until I get more definitive information, either from BRP or another dependable source. Look at it this way, It can't hurt anything and at worst I'm replacing oil that doesn't need to be replaced.

[ulflyer]

That's a good question. But, I think I'll stick to 3-4000 miles changes until I get more definitive information, either from BRP or another dependable source. Look at it this way, It can't hurt anything and at worst I'm replacing oil that doesn't need to be replaced.

I agree. You can use about any cycle oil and be saft at 3K. I enjoy trying and testing various formulas and if I can find something that will give me 4K I'd be happy. Otherwise, I'll go 3K also.

[Ramjet]

The shear strength of many synthetic is rather high again I would like to see that oil tested and see the results of different labs before I would be convinced. Of course I am not saying you should spend the money I just am making conversation so to speak.

Plus the synthetics have a much lower pour point to begin with so I really am suspect of those labs results and the analysis from this lab.

That said I would not go 9000 miles I like the 4k-4.5k change intervals. Even with Amzoil.

The he more I think about it the more I am questioning this Lab and the results.....

[jerpinoy]

If you change your oil often than the recommended intervals then you are giving your hard earn money to the oil companies and not helping the environment. JMHO.

[ulflyer]

The shear strength of many synthetic is rather high again I would like to see that oil tested and see the results of different labs before I would be convinced. Of course I am not saying you should spend the money I just am making conversation so to speak.

Plus the synthetics have a much lower pour point to begin with so I really am suspect of those labs results and the analysis from this lab.

That said I would not go 9000 miles I like the 4k-4.5k change intervals. Even with Amzoil.

The he more I think about it the more I am questioning this Lab and the results.....

Only way to know is to send of two samples at same time, one to a diff lab. I'd be glad to do that if someone will foot the bill for a Blackstone test...about $25.Someone on BITOG forum did that with auto oil and the results were the same.

I would think since NAPA, WIX, and I think O'Reilly, use this lab (ALS) it must be suitable. I did use Blackstone for the first test on my '11 and it also came back showing severe shearing. Thats when I began tested nearly every oil change and got interested in trying diff oils mostly out of curiosity.

From tests others have done on BITOG on a variety of bikes and a variety of oil, I haven't seen any 10-40, and no 5-40 exceed 4000 other than in some bikes that do not share oil with gear/clutch. Usually the major shearing is by 2000 mi.

20-50 and 20-40 seems to hold up very well in other bikes but BRP doesn't sanction use of this. I did test the use of a quart of 20-50 along with 10-40 in my '11 one summer and that helped considerably. Two quarts was even better.

[jcthorne]

This is one of the reasons I installed the oil pressure gauge that so many told me was a waste of money. The low viscosity over milage shows up in low idle oil pressures. My last drain of BRP XPS was down to 9psi at hot idle. Fresh oil and its near 30 again. Running the Valvoline synthetic MC oil this time and will keep an eye on the gauge and send it off for testing.

[Tango]

If you change your oil often than the recommended intervals then you are giving your hard earn money to the oil companies and not helping the environment. JMHO.

I agree with this. The Gold Wing calls for oil and filter every 8,000 miles. Or one year. And that's using Dino oil! Most riders here would fall under the one year change interval. Those under the Mason/Dixon line probably put more miles on. I usually change my oil and filter every fall to have fresh oil circulate before parking for the winter. Have been doing this with my cycles for 35 years. Never had an engine problem. Tom

[ulflyer]

I agree with this. The Gold Wing calls for oil and filter every 8,000 miles. Or one year. And that's using Dino oil! Most riders here would fall under the one year change interval. Those under the Mason/Dixon line probably put more miles on. I usually change my oil and filter every fall to have fresh oil circulate before parking for the winter. Have been doing this with my cycles for 35 years. Never had an engine problem. Tom

I don't believe The GW has a shared sump does it? They are one of the few machines that exceed the numbers I've been posting. Another one is the BMW.

[sddinnh]

Older BMW 1200's used a dry clutch and separate gear oil (which I maintain is a different animal), the latest water cooled ones have moved to a wet clutch and common oil for both the engine and the transmission. They were only introduced last year, so the results are still out on those.

[ulflyer]

This is one of the reasons I installed the oil pressure gauge that so many told me was a waste of money. The low viscosity over milage shows up in low idle oil pressures. My last drain of BRP XPS was down to 9psi at hot idle. Fresh oil and its near 30 again. Running the Valvoline synthetic MC oil this time and will keep an eye on the gauge and send it off for testing.

JT, this is new to me and really interesting. Never knew about the viscosity/oil pressure relationship. What kind of
miles do you get on the oil before the pressure drops? Did you notice the pressure starting to drop earlier, that it, for some time before you changed the oil?