Results of Amsoil 10W-40 lab test @ 4000 Mi

[Tango]

I don't believe The GW has a shared sump does it? They are one of the few machines that exceed the numbers I've been posting. Another one is the BMW.

Gold Wing uses only one oil for both. And the clutch fouls easily if you use a friction modified oil. Tom

[Ramjet]

The labs you are using are mainly labs that deal with Automobile Oils the oil that you use in a cycle is a different animal in that most cars are not running wet clutches like a MC does. I still am very skeptical of the results you are getting.

To to the post talking about the environment well let's get one thing straight I recycle oil so that is of not concern of mine if it was that important we would all be riding bicycles.

[Jeriatric]

Read for yourself.

http://www.epc.shell.com/Docs/GPCDOC...en-US)_TDS.pdf

$18.00 a gallon @ our local Auto Zone.

I ran Shell T6 in my Yamaha Tour Deluxe and Mobile 1 V Twin in my Ultra. Have not had any issue with either. I will run the T6 in my RTS 1330 and do the changes every 4500.

[ulflyer]

Read for yourself.

http://www.epc.shell.com/Docs/GPCDOC...en-US)_TDS.pdf

$18.00 a gallon @ our local Auto Zone.

About $13 at Walmart (for a gal compared to $13 qt for Motul 7100)! I'll let you know how the Rotellaa tests out shortly after I hit the 2500 mile mark with it! Thats what I put in mine yesterday. BTW, this oil has been a favorite of many bikers for some years now and I believe theres several Spyder owners using it but don't publicize it Early on a couple owners said it caused their clutch to slip and this kept me from using it in my '11, but I'm giving it a try in the '14.

I have Motul 7100, with it claims of wonderfulness, in the garage for the next change after the Rotella.

[ulflyer]

[QUOTE=Ramjet;826829]The labs you are using are mainly labs that deal with Automobile Oils the oil that you use in a cycle is a different animal in that most cars are not running wet clutches like a MC does. I still am very skeptical of the results you are getting. Quote

I've read hundreds of UAO motorcycle reports on BITOG forum , some from reputable cycle racers and others with a lot of mechanical knowledge, and never read anything that suggested the labs were not competent to test motorcyle oils. Indeed, unless you tell them they don't know, or care, what type machine the test oil came from.

Nevertheless, I respect your views and would encourage others with differing views to chime in. That's a good way to learn.

BTW, if you know of a lab that specializes in motorcyle oil tests I'd be glad to give it a try.

[Jeriatric]

About $13 at Walmart (for a gal compared to $13 qt for Motul 7100)! I'll let you know how the Rotellaa tests out shortly after I hit the 2500 mile mark with it! Thats what I put in mine yesterday. BTW, this oil has been a favorite of many bikers for some years now and I believe theres several Spyder owners using it but don't publicize it Early on a couple owners said it caused their clutch to slip and this kept me from using it in my '11, but I'm giving it a try in the '14.

I have Motul 7100, with it claims of wonderfulness, in the garage for the next change after the Rotella.

IMO....the temps that these engines have to operate at add to viscosity loss. Then, start running one in constant high ambient temps and it gets worse.

When we took our trip up north, much of the time my spyder was running 3 to 4 bars(hardly HOT). As soon as we got to Thousand Oaks(inland) on highway 101. The spyder went to 5 bars and that's where it stayed. If memory serves me, we were registering 113 degrees in the desert.

While 5/10w 40 may work in Canada.....some of us actually ride where it gets hot and STAYS HOT. Again, jm2c.

Look forward to hearing about your test results. If, you DO NOT notice any operational differences. It would be great if you could hold out on the test, until you match the mileage of your previous 'A' oil test. Just a thought.

[ulflyer]

IMO....the temps that these engines have to operate at add to viscosity loss. Then, start running one in constant high ambient temps and it gets worse.

When we took our trip up north, much of the time my spyder was running 3 to 4 bars(hardly HOT). As soon as we got to Thousand Oaks(inland) on highway 101. The spyder went to 5 bars and that's where it stayed. If memory serves me, we were registering 113 degrees in the desert.

While 5/10w 40 may work in Canada.....some of us actually ride where it gets hot and STAYS HOT. Again, jm2c.

Look forward to hearing about your test results. If, you DO NOT notice any operational differences. It would be great if you could hold out on the test, until you match the mileage of your previous 'A' oil test. Just a thought.

I might push it to 3000 but frankly I expect it to be sheared to point of needing change by then. Perhaps I'll be surprised and if so, it may become my oil of choice. At the price, I don't mind changing it every 3000.

Its going to be awhile before I reach those miles as I don't have any trips planned and with hot WX at my doorstep I'll be riding less.

[jcthorne]

JT, this is new to me and really interesting. Never knew about the viscosity/oil pressure relationship. What kind of
miles do you get on the oil before the pressure drops? Did you notice the pressure starting to drop earlier, that it, for some time before you changed the oil?

The hot idle oil pressure was pretty steady up until about 2600 miles and then started dropping. By 3000 it was down to 9psi. This is with the BRP XPS installed at the dealer. I am on Valvoline synthetic now and the pressure is back up and the valve train is much quiter. Will have to watch and see how this oil fill goes as I put miles on the bike.

I had previously seen this behavior in my GT500 some years back when Motorcraft synthetic changed suppliers/blends and prompted a change to Rotella. I would like to use Rotella in the Sypder but not sure on the wet clutch. It worked very well in our Harley with a wet clutch though.

[ulflyer]

The hot idle oil pressure was pretty steady up until about 2600 miles and then started dropping. By 3000 it was down to 9psi. This is with the BRP XPS installed at the dealer. I am on Valvoline synthetic now and the pressure is back up and the valve train is much quiter. Will have to watch and see how this oil fill goes as I put miles on the bike.

I had previously seen this behavior in my GT500 some years back when Motorcraft synthetic changed suppliers/blends and prompted a change to Rotella. I would like to use Rotella in the Sypder but not sure on the wet clutch. It worked very well in our Harley with a wet clutch though.

Thanks JT for the info. Your info about the pressure dropping fairly rapidly from 2600 on correlates with tests I have done and with a multitude of tests done on BITOG. Basically, all 10-40 oil starts shearing rapidly from about 2000 on in a shared sump engine.

For those interested in reading about tests others have done: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...ads.php/forums you'll see a thread there similar to this one with comments from non-Can Am owners. I go by "TC1446".

You've got me interested in pressure gauge so I'm going to look up your previous threads about installation to see if its anything I can do, or have done. I'd really like to have it on my 1330 as I expect to have this machine a long time and want to give it quality care.

[garb55]

Shell makes 3 different Rotella T oils
Rotella T 15w-40 is dino. oil and is for diesel engines [$12.98 a gal. Walmart]
Rotella T5 10w-30 is a blend [$16.00 a gal. Walmart]
Rotella T6 5w-40 is full synthetic [$21.00 a gal. Walmart]
I ran T6 in my 2008 GS SM5 for 6 years [36000 miles] with no problems
I am now running T6 in my 1330 [changed oil at 3000 miles break in service now have total of 6000 miles on bike]
I installed an oil pressure gauge before oil change and at idle when engine is at running temp. the oil pressure is 9 to 11 psi
with both oils even when oil is new
BRP I believe states in service manual that above 5psi is ok [I think that is correct]
The oil pressure switch is set really low
At 3000 rpm I am running at a little above 40psi
All gauges vary a little so this is my check point for my gauge [Digital pro sport gauge]
Don20140420_105731.jpg20140420_105659.jpg

[jcthorne]

Read for yourself.

http://www.epc.shell.com/Docs/GPCDOC...en-US)_TDS.pdf

$18.00 a gallon @ our local Auto Zone.

That data sheet is not for Rotella T6 Synthetic. That is for the regular Rotella T, sometimes called T5. The T6 runs about $21 a gallon at WalMart or Sams. A bit more at the autoparts stores and truck stops. Oh, and the T6 is a 5W-40.

[Jeriatric]

That data sheet is not for Rotella T6 Synthetic. That is for the regular Rotella T, sometimes called T5. The T6 runs about $21 a gallon at WalMart or Sams. A bit more at the autoparts stores and truck stops. Oh, and the T6 is a 5W-40.

Right you are.

[ulflyer]

Right you are.

Both T and T6 are now Jaso Ma2, api SN. T5 is not rated MA at all.

[Bad Dog6]

You might try Oil Analyzers Inc. They are recommended by Amsoil. I have not tested oil in my Spyder but I have on every other vehicle I have owned over the years and the test results have always supported Amsoil's claims. Would be interested to compare to Blackstone's.

[ulflyer]

You might try Oil Analyzers Inc. They are recommended by Amsoil. I have not tested oil in my Spyder but I have on every other vehicle I have owned over the years and the test results have always supported Amsoil's claims. Would be interested to compare to Blackstone's.

Thanks for the info. In case anyone wants to know about the Lab I've been using, here is their web site. I use the lab in Atlanta:

http://www.l-a-b.com/lab/als-laborat...veley-services

[BajaRon]

I love oil threads... but sometimes I just sit back and watch. Especially when my experience differs from others.

I can only go with what I've done and it's not to discredit what ulflyer has posted. We simply have had different experiences with oil testing and I have no explanation for this. I assume that all testing facilities use the same methods so results should not vary that much as long as all other parameters are the same.

Motorcycle oil is an automotive lubricant and will not make any difference in the test results. This is certainly not a factor in the differences in testing outcomes.

I've had my 10w-40 Amsoil tested several times. I've had a few with slight fuel dilution and that, I'm sure, is a function of too rich a setting on my Juice Box. The JB is not extremely adjustable through the power band like the PC unit. But I digress.

In my worst test so far, with 6,400 hard, hot miles on the oil, I ended up with a 13.3 cST viscosity rating. As you can see in the conversion chart below, that's not too bad. Especially with the 1.7% (though slight) fuel contamination which will lower the viscosity index.

As you can see in this conversion chart, each SAE viscosity rating has a range within the cST index (Left side of the chart).

I have also tested BRP oil for another person with about 5.5k on it. That test came back pretty ugly with a lot of RED - Warning! Danger Will Robinson! notations. If you're going to run extended mileage with anything but a high quality, Type IV true synthetic oil in your Spyder I would highly recommend having it tested. And, as ulflyer points out, it doesn't hurt to have your Amsoil, or whatever true synthetic oil you choose tested as well.

I use Oil Analyzers, Inc. but I'm not saying they are any better or worse than another testing service. They are a certified facility so I believe their results can be trusted.

Just to see what would happen I sent a sample of Amsoil but said it was Castrol. The results came back similar to previous Amsoil tests but with this statement; 'We acknowledge the FLUID INFORMATION (manufacturer and/or product name) was provided, however we were not able to validate it within our database or from the fluid manufacturer.'

In other words, they were saying that my sample was NOT a Castrol product of any kind. It means they were paying attention and I thought that was significant.

I hope this information helps someone make an informed decision on what I consider to be an important aspect of ownership... Lubrication!

[BajaRon]

This topic is getting pretty heavy, almost to a BITOG level.

Can I ask, BajaRon, which BRP oil was tested, the full synthetic or the blended.

PK

It was the blended oil. And BITOG has some very good information.

I figure it's like the candy store. Some go for the simple stuff like a lemon drop. Others go for the Cheesecake with exotic toppings. You get both ends of the spectrum here on Spyderlovers and everything in-between!

(Excuse me while I check to see if there is any of that cheesecake left in the fridge....)

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Read for yourself.

http://www.epc.shell.com/Docs/GPCDOC...en-US)_TDS.pdf

$18.00 a gallon @ our local Auto Zone.

IT'S AN " SM " OIL ! ! ! ..........Mikeguyver

[Jeriatric]

IT'S AN " SM " OIL ! ! ! ..........Mikeguyver

Oh no!!!!

[SB1]

IT'S AN " SM " OIL ! ! ! ..........Mikeguyver

But the 1330's do NOT carry the same SM warning that the previous models did.

[AbNormy]

Now I don't feel quite so bad about finding out my dealer put 20/50 not 10/40 amsoil last fall, except it was fall not spring or summer. I chewed them out and rightly so cause they didn't tell me I only discovered it by accident, drained it and put 10/40 in. But it's hot here and I drive 10-12 miles each way to work. So I saved the 20/50 and think I'll at least use a qt with the other 2.5 qts 10/40 to use it up, or do y'all think it'll be ok just 20/50 in the summer?


Living the dream while I still can!

[ulflyer]

Now I don't feel quite so bad about finding out my dealer put 20/50 not 10/40 amsoil last fall, except it was fall not spring or summer. I chewed them out and rightly so cause they didn't tell me I only discovered it by accident, drained it and put 10/40 in. But it's hot here and I drive 10-12 miles each way to work. So I saved the 20/50 and think I'll at least use a qt with the other 2.5 qts 10/40 to use it up, or do y'all think it'll be ok just 20/50 in the summer?

AbNormy, with a handle like that, you can use anything you want!

I did use a quart with a second for topping off in my previous '11 Rt over a period of several oil changes with no obvious issues.
It brought the viscosity up enough that it was still in the safe zone at the 4K mile changes that I used.

[BajaRon]

IT'S AN " SM " OIL ! ! ! ..........Mikeguyver

You know the 'SM' rating stands for don't you.... 'Slip Much?'.

[ulflyer]

You know the 'SM' rating stands for don't you.... 'Slip Much?'.

Pretty sure its rated SN......'Slip No-more"

[Ramjet]

misconception go to: Read and learn this is a great site to get educated.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com