My RT is Jacked Up!

[Texas]

I never came across any pictures on how it was done, and I wished I had done this back when I changed my oil, but I thought everyone would like to see this for reference. It is very, very easy to lift the RT without any other tools than what you use for you car. Using two ramps, I drove the RT onto the ramps. I then set the brake and turned off the RT, then I lifted the rear by using a low profile jack at the rear of the center beam on the bottom of the RT. I then used a 3 ton stand to set to rest the rear of the RT (see pictures below). The RT is super stable. This took all of 5 minutes to complete, and I may even do this every time I go to cry down the RT; as it is much easier to dry off the bottom of it in this position.

[finless]

I have read it here many times that you are not suppose to jack up or support the RT by the rear shock bracket/mount.

Bob

[bmwlarry]

ditto on the shock mount!!

[Texas]

Thank you to everyone who replied. I didn't see any damage to the support after I lowered it. I did inspect it closely. However, I did notice what looks like two rubber bands crossed over that support. Part of each rubber band is jammed in between the support and bracket, and crosses over to the other side. They are both badly weathered (as a rubber band wasn't made for that environment), and I'm sure will fall apart any day. Does anyone know why there would be a couple of rubber bands here?

Also, the question to me remains; How/where do you jack up the rear and rest it on a stand?

[garb55]

I did the same thing except I backed the front wheels onto the ramps
This gave more room to crawl under for an oil change
Don

[Texas]

I did the same thing except I backed the front wheels onto the ramps
This gave more room to crawl under for an oil change
Don

...and that was my other thought; to purchase another set of ramps to have that third ramp to set the RT back wheel on. Thanks Don.

[Bob Denman]

Is there any place along the right hand side of the swingarm, where you can see a lifting point?

[finless]

...and that was my other thought; to purchase another set of ramps to have that third ramp to set the RT back wheel on. Thanks Don.

This is in fact what I do. Drive it up on ramps on the front, jack up the back and slide another ramp under the tire.
Only time I have it on the jack (ahrbor frieght ATV lift) is when adjusting the belt tension/tracking which I have done once.

Bob

[GMAN9]

By the way...where did you get the composite ramps at? They look lighter and easier to manuever than my heavy steel ones.

[Texas]

By the way...where did you get the composite ramps at? They look lighter and easier to manuever than my heavy steel ones.

Wally World

Is there any place along the right hand side of the swingarm, where you can see a lifting point?

I'm assuming the lift point that I used "at the back of the chasis center beam" is still ok. The question is where do you rest the back on a stand?

So unless anyone says otherwise, I now believe my steps will be as follows:

LIFTING THE RT:

1. Drive the RT's front wheels up onto the ramps.

2. Set the Parking Brake and turn off the RT.

3. Lift the back of the RT by using a low profile jack; lifting at the back end of the chasis center beam.

4. Position a third ramp under the rear tire and lower the RT onto the ramp.

If you need to remove the rear wheel, after performing the above steps, follow the additional steps below:

5. About three inches fore of the rear of the chasis center beam, lift the RT just enough to scoot a jack stand under so that it rests at the rear of the chasis center beam, with enough room so that there is no danger in the stand slipping off the beam.

6. Scoot the stand into position as described in step 5.

7. Lower the RT onto the stand.

[Jim&Teresa]

By the way...where did you get the composite ramps at? They look lighter and easier to manuever than my heavy steel ones.

I have these low profile "Rhino" ramps and they work well -- use it to drive the front end up. I use an ATV jack to jack the whole bike up and then use blocks under the back wheel while the front wheels are on the ramps. I leave the ATV jack in place for safety.

You can get these Rhino ramps about everywhere -- Amazon.com, Ebay, etc.....

Good luck and be safe!

[Texas]

I'm surprised nobody noticed my RT-S is completely blacked out

[ScooterJeff]

You just didn't give us enough time to notice the blacked-out parts. I noticed it right away - well right after I noticed that your garage looks more like a doctors office!

[spyderyderjim]

Thank you to everyone who replied. I didn't see any damage to the support after I lowered it. I did inspect it closely. However, I did notice what looks like two rubber bands crossed over that support. Part of each rubber band is jammed in between the support and bracket, and crosses over to the other side. They are both badly weathered (as a rubber band wasn't made for that environment), and I'm sure will fall apart any day. Does anyone know why there would be a couple of rubber bands here?

Also, the question to me remains; How/where do you jack up the rear and rest it on a stand?

Thank you for posting photos of raising up RT for repairs.
The rear stock shock bushing/bolt bends & bolt gets stuck in bushing.
That is one reason not to raise rear of RT using rear lower shock mount, or let it sit on jack stand.
I installed a grade 8 equivalent lower rear shock bolt to replace stock bolt that bends, 10m x 140m with self locking nylock nut.
I admire your high mileage you are getting on your 2014 RT!!
I enjoy the thrill of high speed cornering in mountain roads so get lower mileage, but 37 mpg even with a heavy throttle hand.
I do have a cat-delete exhaust pipe, and ceramic/reflective wrapped the exhaust pipe under the engine of 2014 RT.
So that is probably why I still get good mileage with those mods on (that lean out RT fuel ratio a little).
Are you considering putting a Kumho Ecsta AST 4 ply car tire on rear for better mileage?
I am installing the rear Kumho tire Thursday.
I jack up RT under rear section of frame, and put jack stand under forward part of swing arm pivot area.
I also use a 4" high rear tire ramp, to go with the front ramps raising RT up for easy access underneath.
Enjoy.
Jim
bent lower rear RT stock shock bolt bushing.jpglower rear shock bolt grade 8 hardness.jpg

[Texas]

Thanks for the extra info Jim. I'll keep the information about the bolt in case I see any future issues with it. By the way, did that happen after repeated lifts, or after only one lift? I'm not going to change the tire out until I need it. I'm curious to see what kind of mileage I can get, since so many people are reporting low mileage with them. When I do change it out, I know there are a few options, so I'm not sure which one I will change out to; but I'm almost certain it won't be the stocker. I haven't considered the cat-delete or ceramic wrap options, as I enjoy the quietness of the RT, and heat is a non-existent issue, so I haven't thought about wrapping the pipes either.

[spyderyderjim]

Thanks for the extra info Jim. I'll keep the information about the bolt in case I see any future issues with it. By the way, did that happen after repeated lifts, or after only one lift? I'm not going to change the tire out until I need it. I'm curious to see what kind of mileage I can get, since so many people are reporting low mileage with them. When I do change it out, I know there are a few options, so I'm not sure which one I will change out to; but I'm almost certain it won't be the stocker. I haven't considered the cat-delete or ceramic wrap options, as I enjoy the quietness of the RT, and heat is a non-existent issue, so I haven't thought about wrapping the pipes either.

The lower rear stock shock bolt bent on my 2011 RT. If the stock shock bolt bends into the lower shock bushing, it is really difficult to remove when bent together.
Elka gave me a replacement bushing & I bought a grade 8 replacement bolt.
John at Elka said a lower rear stock 2013 RT shock bolt was already bent before they started testing Elka rear shock.
So it doesn't take much to bend lower rear stock shock bolt.
I wrapped the 2014 RT exhaust pipe to keep heat off underneath the engine cases because it is only about 3/8" clearance.
I will have exhaust pipe Jet-Hot Ceramic coated later this summer, as ceramic wrap is messy.
http://www.jet-hot.com/

Didn't mean to side track your post.
Enjoy your rides.
Jim

[retirednick]

I am so jealous of all the garage pictures,,, anyway I just reverse up on 3 ramps, as most of the work is accomplished at the front 3rd of the Spyder; no ramp parts get in the way. Now if I can get rid of all the ants in my backyard before my next oil change.

[dslim]

I'm surprised nobody noticed my RT-S is completely blacked out

I just saw this post and showed it to my wife right away, what did you use to get rid of the chrome? Nice ride!!

[3 Wheel Addict]

The rubber band keeps the shock bushings assembled on the shock during assembly of the spyder on the line. Makes sure the pieces stay in place and don't get dropped.

[MTFan]

I stack three 2x12 in varied length. I then back all three wheels up the ramps at the same time. I did cut a 45 degree angle on the front of each the 2x12. I don't need to worry about them breaking, and also use them for my vehicles.

[Texas]

I just saw this post and showed it to my wife right away, what did you use to get rid of the chrome? Nice ride!!

Thanks, I used Plasti Dip. It's a great product, as you can easily remove it whenever you want.

[Raknid]

just saw this thread. I have to also say that I love your garage. Shames me into spending time to organize and clean mine up thought vs riding! :-)