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 oil change body panels
Just a couple questions,
Looks like one has to tear half the bike apart to change the oil. How hard is it to get the mirror off . Book says push up on end and shove to the rear. Will this come right off? I'm afraid I'll break it.
Then book says pop the grommets out on the side panel. Just how do you pull on this panel to get this done?
Also this is all on the left side right??
Also what brand and wt. oil are you boys using?
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Very Active Member
Here's the thing..!!
I don't have an RT so can only refer to what I have heard. The mirror part is tricky and once you've done it it is easy. There are some videos you can search out showing it being done. The easiest on the oil and filters etc is to get a kit. You can find them on line ( ebay is where I go) for a little over $50.00 and has all you need. If you go aftermarket check with BajaRon who sells the filters and Amsoil. Otherwise you can find other oil but has to be the same spec's as brp...take your time..you can do it...
Gene and Ilana De Laney
Mt. Helix, California
2012 RS sm5
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
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Mirror Removal: from Scotty... 
Most damage to the keyhole clips comes from improper or overly physical removal of the mirrors. I have never broken a clip on two RT's, although the mirrors have been removed frequently. To remove without damage I recommend the following:
1. Place one hand at the back of the mirror near the outer edge of the glass. This hand should apply light pressure toward the front to keep you from moving the mirror to far and breaking the clip.
2. With the other hand, rap against the front puter edge to pop the front spring clip loose. I describe the force of the hit as "firm, but gentle". A sharp, short rap is all you need. Do not tug or push, and be sure to resist with the other hand.
3. Move the backup hand to the top outer portion of the housing.
4. From underneath, rap upward with the other hand to pop the lower spring clip loose.
5. Gently lift straight up on the mirror assembly, about 1/2", then pull outward to slip the latch pin from the keyhole clip.
6. Pull the wires from inside the console until the wiring connector is clear of the body. An untrimmed wire tie on the cable will prevent the connector from falling back inside, when it too is pulled clear of the body.
7. Installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure to straighten the spring clips before you reinstall, so they are straight and parallel. Lightly lubing the latch pins helps, too.
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Registered Users
Before you do it
Go to your dealer and buy a couple of the upper clips (aka keyhole). They cost about $8.50. Have them for spares. Don't ask me how I know this..
mike s
Duck
Michael Spivack
2007 Goldwing
2012 RT Limited Lava (traded 5/2/14)
RT Mods. Cup holder, Utopia Backrest, Hi mounter tail light, FZ1 fuse box, aux power outlet, CB and Gerbing outlets
2014 RT Limited Cognac (purchased 5/2/14)
RT Mods. Cup holder, Spyder Backrest, 2012 CB and Gerbing outlets
GWRRA
Cape Cod, Ma.
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Very Active Member
The mirrors are easy to remove and I have had mine off several dozen times. I place my left hand on top of the mirror to be ready to catch it incase I whack too hard, then with my right palm I strike the outermost part of the mirror in an upwards fashion from below. Mirror pops right off then disconnect the wiring and make sure it hangs out of the hole on the bike so it is easy to find later.
Next remove the access cover below the wind deflector by pulling on the leading edge(front near the frunk) on top and bottom, then the bottom on the inside. The top has no grommets, just a black locator clip.
You then remove the side wind deflector, the black plastic cover with a reusable rivet under the frunk lid, the upper side panel with 5 screws (the two stainless one you see on the surface are not removed, they are part of the pin that snaps into the center grommets) and the lower side panel with 5 screws and one plastic reusable rivet. I usually take the lower black wind deflector off as well to gain better vision and access.
It is no big deal and I can strip these parts off in less than 10 minutes using my power driver. I have a plastic partitioned bin that I keep each panels rivets/screws/bolts in for easy reinstallation. I never had to replace the mirror clips doing it this way.
 Originally Posted by bluep
Just a couple questions,
Looks like one has to tear half the bike apart to change the oil. How hard is it to get the mirror off . Book says push up on end and shove to the rear. Will this come right off? I'm afraid I'll break it.
Then book says pop the grommets out on the side panel. Just how do you pull on this panel to get this done?
Also this is all on the left side right??
Also what brand and wt. oil are you boys using?
Last edited by bluestratos; 05-16-2014 at 01:00 PM.
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oil
What brand an weight of oil are you boys using??
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by bluep
What brand an weight of oil are you boys using??
Best to use it what the book says
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Very Active Member
Many of us use Amsoil 10W-40 motorcycle oil. BajaRon, a sponser on this forum, sells it at a fair price. Valvoline makes a decent quality synthetic cycle oil readily avail from Walmart.
Or you can buy it from your dealer along with the oil filter. As far as I know, there are no kits out yet for the '14. Read your manual; it calls for a little over 5 quarts, plus the filter. Be careful with the drain plugs, making sure you have the right tools to remove them.
Two Wheelers from 1963-2011
Three Wheelers:
2011 RT(Red)
2014 RT(white)
2016 F3T(red)
2022 RT current ride(silver)
__________________
2016 Slingshot
2018 Vanderhall
2019 Slingshot
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[QUOTE=ulflyer;813251]Many of us use Amsoil 10W-40 motorcycle oil. BajaRon, a sponser on this forum, sells it at a fair price. Valvoline makes a decent quality synthetic cycle oil readily avail from Walmart.
Or you can buy it from your dealer along with the oil filter. As far as I know, there are no kits out yet for the '14. Read your manual; it calls for a little over 5 quarts, plus the filter. Be careful with the drain plugs, making sure you have the right tools to remove them.[/QUOT
The book says 5 W 40, I was concerned about the SE6 shifting right with 10W40 instead of 5W40?? My choice in oil is Mobile 1, 10W40 full synthetic. Anyone out there using this in the new 2014 , 1330 with SE6 ??
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Active Member
[QUOTE=bluep;813261]
Originally Posted by ulflyer
Many of us use Amsoil 10W-40 motorcycle oil. BajaRon, a sponser on this forum, sells it at a fair price. Valvoline makes a decent quality synthetic cycle oil readily avail from Walmart.
Or you can buy it from your dealer along with the oil filter. As far as I know, there are no kits out yet for the '14. Read your manual; it calls for a little over 5 quarts, plus the filter. Be careful with the drain plugs, making sure you have the right tools to remove them.[/QUOT
The book says 5 W 40, I was concerned about the SE6 shifting right with 10W40 instead of 5W40?? My choice in oil is Mobile 1, 10W40 full synthetic. Anyone out there using this in the new 2014 , 1330 with SE6 ??
Have Amsoil 10W40 in my 2014 SE6, and it does just fine.
GUZZI :
2020 RTL blue
 
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[QUOTE=Guzzi;813402]
Originally Posted by bluep
Have Amsoil 10W40 in my 2014 SE6, and it does just fine.
Is this Amsoil 10W40 a motorcycle oil?
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Is it necessary to take the mirror and attached panel off to change the oil?
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by SPYD1
Is it necessary to take the mirror and attached panel off to change the oil?
You've paid a lot of money for your Spyder, Just use what the book says.
Mine is a older SM5 so it is going to be a little different, but I never remove any thing but the one little panel over the oil tank on the left side.
I don't see why the mirrors and side panels need to come off for an oil change. On the '14 maybe so 
As far as removing mirrors and panels, it is not a hard thing to do. Just go on you tube and you'll find videos on how to do it. Also the site admin. of This forum (Lamonster) has many good Videos on do it you self maint. items for the spyder.
 Happy Spyderlovers 
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by SPYD1
Is it necessary to take the mirror and attached panel off to change the oil?
Only on the '14 and thats so you can get to the oil filter.
Two Wheelers from 1963-2011
Three Wheelers:
2011 RT(Red)
2014 RT(white)
2016 F3T(red)
2022 RT current ride(silver)
__________________
2016 Slingshot
2018 Vanderhall
2019 Slingshot
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[QUOTE=Guzzi;813402]
Originally Posted by bluep
Have Amsoil 10W40 in my 2014 SE6, and it does just fine.
[QUOTE=bluep;815240]
Originally Posted by Guzzi
Is this Amsoil 10W40 a motorcycle oil?
Yes, absolutely use 10W40 MOTORCYCLE oil from Amsoil.
2017 F3T-SM6 Squared Away Mirror Wedgies & Alignment
2014 RTS-SM6 123,600 miles Sold 11/2017
2014 RTL-SE6 8,600 miles
2011 RTS-SM5 5,000 miles
2013 RTS-SM5 burned up with 13,200 miles in 13 weeks
2010 RTS-SM5 59,148 miles
2010 RT- 622
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Originally Posted by StanProff
You've paid a lot of money for your Spyder, Just use what the book says.
Mine is a older SM5 so it is going to be a little different, but I never remove any thing but the one little panel over the oil tank on the left side.
I don't see why the mirrors and side panels need to come off for an oil change. On the '14 maybe so
As far as removing mirrors and panels, it is not a hard thing to do. Just go on you tube and you'll find videos on how to do it. Also the site admin. of This forum (Lamonster) has many good Videos on do it you self maint. items for the spyder.
The 2014 is completely different from older models. The mirrors and side panels do indeed need to come off to change the oil.
2017 F3T-SM6 Squared Away Mirror Wedgies & Alignment
2014 RTS-SM6 123,600 miles Sold 11/2017
2014 RTL-SE6 8,600 miles
2011 RTS-SM5 5,000 miles
2013 RTS-SM5 burned up with 13,200 miles in 13 weeks
2010 RTS-SM5 59,148 miles
2010 RT- 622
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