Question about Elka's Stage 1 + R installation on a 2012 RT...

[ZDarkman]

I recently purchased Elka Stage 1 +R, and I'm in the middle of the installation. Having problems so I called Pitbull, where I got them from, and no one has gotten back to me yet.

I do have shock relocaters installed. I had a hard time getting the one's out but I did. The problem I am having is getting the new ones in, they are an inch longer. I just want to confirm I have the right shocks since they are an inch longer, or is this only because of the adjustment that was done.

The only way I can see to get more clearance is to, loosen the sway bar and disconnect the helm links so that the A-arm can drop down further and this should be able to give me more clearance. I don't want to do this unless this is the only way. Does anyone know of how to get them in there?

[ZDarkman]

If you do have an uninstalled Elka Stage 1 +R that will fit a 2012 RT, laying around, can you do me a favor and measure it from end to end. The ones I have measure about 19 14/16 long. They are an inch longer than my old shocks.

I just can't get it in there, I have a hard enough time getting the old ones off or on. Plus I do have the shock relocaters.


I just want to confirm this is correct shock before I try my hail mary, which is taking off the helm links, loosening Ron's sway bar, and rotating them out of the way. I believe the A-arm will drop down further when jacked up if I do this, because it seems the A-arm is resting on the sway bar.


Any input will be appreciated.

[Chupaca]

on the home page there is an elka rep sponsor. Check with them. I have not worked with elkas with the sway bar and relocators my machine does well. I may just go for the RT shocks. Most shocks I have worked with did not need compressing or droping the a arms etc. If you are going with the elkas you might remove the relocators....good luck...

[my3gs]

They should fit I did mine they are a bit tight in an out but will fit. I have a 12 RT.

[Bob Denman]

Or contact Len at PitBull. He sells the relocation bracket, and install LOTS of Elkas...

[ZDarkman]

Got one shock on, only took about 3 loonnngggg hours. I did have to go for the hail mary. Had my brother come over, who is very mechanical, and he said the same thing, there was no way that shock was going in there just my jacking it up.

For some reason, maybe I have my sway bar to tight, but when you jack it up, and the tire comes off the ground, the A-arm doesn't come down far enough to put the new Elkas in there. So I had no choice but to disconnect the heim links, loosen the sway bar a little and just rotate it down out of the way. Is it possible that I had the sway bar to tight, and thats why the A-arm just rests against the sway arm when jacked up, it drops a little but not much. When I disconnected the bottom bolt off the old shock, the A-arm only dropped down another 1/2 inch and the Elka's are definitely an inch longer. I took pictures, but guess there's no need to really post them here. It is, what it was.

Ran out of time and darkness was here, so will finish it tomorrow, looks like the bike is about 2 inches higher now on that one side. I hope it doesn't go over an inch when all done, bike already went up an inch after putting on sway bar and shock relocaters.


Just wanted to thank everyone who responded.

[spacetiger]

I know several riders are using both, but I'd say if you have Elka's you don't need the relocators. The Elka's should come sized to your front end loading. That might make installation easier. If you find the new shocks do the job, you can sell the relocation brackets to reduce the cost of the new shocks.

Jerry

[spyderyderjim]

If you do have an uninstalled Elka Stage 1 +R that will fit a 2012 RT, laying around, can you do me a favor and measure it from end to end. The ones I have measure about 19 14/16 long. They are an inch longer than my old shocks.

I just can't get it in there, I have a hard enough time getting the old ones off or on. Plus I do have the shock relocaters.


I just want to confirm this is correct shock before I try my hail mary, which is taking off the helm links, loosening Ron's sway bar, and rotating them out of the way. I believe the A-arm will drop down further when jacked up if I do this, because it seems the A-arm is resting on the sway bar.


Any input will be appreciated.

I realize you already have one Elka shock mounted.
But my 2011/2012 Elka Stage 5 shocks are 18 1/8" eye to eye.
The 2013/2014Elka Spyder RT shocks.jpg Elka's are 18 3/4" eye to eye.
Seems like you have 2013 length Elka shocks!!
Of course call Len to double check you have the correct length Elka's.
Jim

[ZDarkman]

I'm most likely going to return the Elka's.

Called Pitbull, where I purchased it, did not talk to Len, but spoke to someone else there who basically told me it doesn't make a difference if I have the Elka's that fit a 2012 or 2013. He said the only difference is that the 2013 is about an inch longer.

After taking the old shock off, the new one did measure about an inch longer, 18 3/4" from middle eye to middle eye. The total length of the Elka's measure about 19 7/8" long from end to end.

When I initially installed the sway bar and shock relocater, the bike rose up at least 1 1/2 to 2 inches, I do not remember exactly. Before putting on the Elka's, I measured from ground to the top of the bumper plate and it measured 6 inches. After installing the Elka's it rose to 9 inches, it CAME UP 3 WHOLE INCHES. I did start the bike and I usually don't loose much air out of the rear shock.

I didn't get a chance to take it for a ride yet because it started to rain.

If anyone has a bumper plate and ELKA's Stage 1 +R, can you do me a favor and measure it from the ground to the top of the bumper plate and let me know what it is. Thank you.

[mob133]

once you test drive the bike I think you may change your mind. the elkas are great 5000 miles and would never go back. you can really tweak these shocks xtra firm to soft but still with good handling,as far a the install problems,its beenabout 8 month since I installed mine but it seems to me there wa some literature referring to getting the bike jacked way up and something about leaving the relocator loose until the very end then tighten up . hope im not confusing this with just relocator install instructionsbut I know it only took me about 2.5 hours to do both

[Arachnida]

I just put mine on today. I just used my atv jack and jacked up the from off of the ground a feww inches and it gave me enough clearance. I do not have relocaters on my 2010 rt. I also took the front frunk off. Takes about 30 minutes. Made the whole job much faster and easier. Good luck

[spyderyderjim]

I'm most likely going to return the Elka's.

Called Pitbull, where I purchased it, did not talk to Len, but spoke to someone else there who basically told me it doesn't make a difference if I have the Elka's that fit a 2012 or 2013. He said the only difference is that the 2013 is about an inch longer.

After taking the old shock off, the new one did measure about an inch longer, 18 3/4" from middle eye to middle eye. The total length of the Elka's measure about 19 7/8" long from end to end.

When I initially installed the sway bar and shock relocater, the bike rose up at least 1 1/2 to 2 inches, I do not remember exactly. Before putting on the Elka's, I measured from ground to the top of the bumper plate and it measured 6 inches. After installing the Elka's it rose to 9 inches, it CAME UP 3 WHOLE INCHES. I did start the bike and I usually don't loose much air out of the rear shock.

I didn't get a chance to take it for a ride yet because it started to rain.

If anyone has a bumper plate and ELKA's Stage 1 +R, can you do me a favor and measure it from the ground to the top of the bumper plate and let me know what it is. Thank you.

You can unscrew spring pre-load about 1 " and it should lower ride height/ground clearance; (normal ground to under front part of RT frame is about 5").
You should have a small hex wrench to loosen small screw on upper ring of Elka's, also a round pin type wrench to back off (unscrew) top ring about 1".
Measure length of spring before unscrewing pre-load ring, (spring length should be around 8 1/2" stock setting).
Jacking up front of 2012 RT helps.
Elka's are a big improvement in absorbing small bumps in road, but still firm in corners!!
You may want to think about keeping 2013/2014 RT length Elka's for when/if you decide to buy 2014/2015 Spyder RT as they will bolt right up!!
Enjoy your test ride.
Jim

[ZDarkman]

I spoke to someone over at Pitbull, and it wasn't Len, but the person didn't confirm if the shocks were for a 2012 or anyone other year. He said if it was for a 2013 or 2014, that the only difference would be that they are about an inch longer.

Well for me, it is just TOO HIGH. If I measure the height underneath after the end of the the bumpskid, from the frame to ground it is 7 3/4 inches. When I measure about 6 inches before the cat converter, it is around 7 inches from frame to gound.

If I unscrew the pre-load about an inch, to me that ruins the whole purpose of the ELKA's doesn't it. Making ajustments based on height and not on its handling based on the weight of the driver and passenger.

I'm going to talk to someone else who works directly from ELKA to find out what my options are. If the 2012 Elka's are an inch shorter, that is one I should have, not one that is longer, period. I don't want to take off the relocaters either because I bought them to stable the ride and I'm sure they do help to some degree.

If it wasn't so HIGH, I would keep them like you said, so further down the road, if I upgrade to a new model RT, chances are my current ELKA's would fit it.

When I ordered the ELKA's, supposedly it was set up for the questions that I answered, such as how much I weight, passenger, how I drive, and so on.

You can unscrew spring pre-load about 1 " and it should lower ride height/ground clearance; (normal ground to under front part of RT frame is about 5").
You should have a small hex wrench to loosen small screw on upper ring of Elka's, also a round pin type wrench to back off (unscrew) top ring about 1".
Measure length of spring before unscrewing pre-load ring, (spring length should be around 8 1/2" stock setting).
Jacking up front of 2012 RT helps.
Elka's are a big improvement in absorbing small bumps in road, but still firm in corners!!
You may want to think about keeping 2013/2014 RT length Elka's for when/if you decide to buy 2014/2015 Spyder RT as they will bolt right up!!
Enjoy your test ride.
Jim

[ZDarkman]

Finally was able to convince someone over there at Pitbull that I have the wrong shocks. So they are being returned. I am not going to buy another pair of Elka's from Pitbull, their staff was courteous and professional, just seems they are under-staffed, just my opinion.

If there are any other Elka vendors out there, still selling them at Spyderfest prices, please contact me. Looking for Elka's Stage 1 +R for a 2012 Spyder RT-S.