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  1. #26
    GOS member (Girls On Spyders) ruthie's Avatar
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    So you have to order the Arachnid tire then hope your closest dealer will mount it for who know what.


    2014 RT SE6 Limited
    rYding Safe = Having Fun

    Ruthie

  2. #27
    SpyderLovers Sponsor cptjam's Avatar
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    Default Concur

    No problem with sourcing quality parts world-wide. Problem with junk at this price point. There is a term BRP needs to learn:
    Commercial Off The Shelf
    COTS
    why have obscure bits and pieces that fail when used? Why have so many non-standard items that should be common and proven? Like tires, spin on oil filters, air filters, gauges, connections, just to name a few!
    BRP makes some world class stuff, and we do love it. However, having a tire blow and NOBODY carries that size is just wrong! Cross country machines need to be reliable, repairable, and made of parts we can buy! JMHO, Joe
    Joe Meyer



    Dealer for the Outlaw/ROLO laser Alignment system

  3. #28
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    The harsh truth is that Kenda can't even make a good bicycle tire! If there is any bike riders on here they will know what I'm talking about.... Kenda tires are like ink cartridges that come with new printers that work great but they are not gonna last long.

  4. #29
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    on My 11 I got 13K out of the rear tire, then put a Kumo on and it was still only 1/3 worn at 25K when I trade it in. The Kumo was terrible on wet roads though, major hydroplaning which almost caused a serious accident when towing my trailer on the freeway. Don got 17K on his stock back tire. I will watch the new one carefully.

    One thing I noticed, I have remote tire pressure indicators and have my tires set at factory spec for the 14 (28 PSI). After riding 20 miles the back tire was already up to 33 PSI on cool roads this weekend.

    People keep talking about "burn outs" but neither my 2011 or my 14 can break loose off the line. Now and then I feel a bit of slip as I go over the painted intersection lines but nothing much.

  5. #30
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    That's why they say to check your tire pressures cold...
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  6. #31
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    there doesn't seem to be any real agreement on tire pressures (front and rear)....

  7. #32
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    For 2014:
    20 psi front
    28 psi rear
    Is what they suggest...
    I'll stick with them, until I see a need to make a change.
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  8. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    For 2014:
    20 psi front
    28 psi rear
    Is what they suggest...
    I'll stick with them, until I see a need to make a change.
    That's exactly the PSI settings I'm using. Like the ryde at those pressures.

  9. #34
    Very Active Member ARtraveler's Avatar
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    I have previously experienced 13K to 15K miles on rear tires of all my 's. Hoping that this will not be an issue on my new 2014. Tick...tick...tick...

    Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.

    Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)

    MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles

    IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
    2020 F3L , Magma Red

  10. #35
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    I would also tend to believe that the added weight to these machines is a contributing factor in the tire wear too.

    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

  11. #36
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    Are you calling me, "FAT"?
    Oh...
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  12. #37
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    Lets see, worn out in the middle and not on the edges.... hey, how about dual compound tires? Harder compound in the middle and softer on the edges helps with cornering. Oh wait, I have those on my 2 wheeler. Never mind. Lets step up BRP.... we have the technology.

  13. #38
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    Default Just a thought

    Are those that are finding that their tyres are wearing out quicker mainly riding two up ?

    Sorry about the spelling of tyres, but I'm English.

  14. #39
    Very Active Member StanProff's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpyRyd View Post
    Here is the pic of my rear tire in the proper orientation .
    I think it will last longer now, it was mounted sideways before.
    Happy Spyderlovers

  15. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    For 2014:
    20 psi front
    28 psi rear
    Is what they suggest...
    I'll stick with them, until I see a need to make a change.

    a friend of mine said to put 25 in the fronts - haven't tried it yet but....

  16. #41
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    It's worth a try...
    I'd be concerned about siffening up the sidewalls too much...
    The flexing that they do, is kind of relied upon by the manufacturers as part of the suspension's ability to soak up bumps.
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  17. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by lookerjdc View Post
    a friend of mine said to put 25 in the fronts - haven't tried it yet but....
    That's what I'm running and it seems ok to me. Stops a lot of the tire roll in the corners and not noticably worse on our "frost heaved" NH roads. I looked at the tire and it says no less than 15 and no more than 30 so I figure I'm pretty safe

  18. #43
    Very Active Member Tango's Avatar
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    Putting some extra air to stiffen up the sidewall is a good idea. Less body roll, and keeps the sidewall from compressing too much allowing pot holes to reach the rim. I've got 22 lbs in the front. Will move up to 24lbs. next. Had a long discussion with a BMW engineer who advised to run the tires to the sidewall max. The tires will resist punctures and blowouts and protect the rims better. Said to do this with bikes and cars. Tom
    Baloo is my name. Spyders are my game. Well, it's a doo-bah-dee-doo, yes, it's a doo-bah-dee-doo, I mean a doo-bee, doo-bee, doo-bee, doo-bee, doo-bee-dee-doo. And, well, now. Ha ha! What have we here?



    2020 Petrol Blue Metallic RTL

  19. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tango View Post
    Putting some extra air to stiffen up the sidewall is a good idea. Less body roll, and keeps the sidewall from compressing too much allowing pot holes to reach the rim. I've got 22 lbs in the front. Will move up to 24lbs. next. Had a long discussion with a BMW engineer who advised to run the tires to the sidewall max. The tires will resist punctures and blowouts and protect the rims better. Said to do this with bikes and cars. Tom
    As I read the side of the tire, the sidewall max is 30. It just cautions not to run less that 15. My guess is that BRP spec's 20 for the "cushy" ride, not for cornering performance. Mine cane with 18 psi and I first raised it to 20 and saw no noticable difference. I went to 25 and the tire roll was noticeably less with not a lot of degradation in the ride. I suppose I should try 30 just to say I've tried it, but ........

  20. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by NZSpyderRyder View Post
    Are those that are finding that their tyres are wearing out quicker mainly riding two up ?

    Sorry about the spelling of tyres, but I'm English.
    Not me, I have never ridden two up?

  21. #46
    Very Active Member Tango's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sddinnh View Post
    As I read the side of the tire, the sidewall max is 30. It just cautions not to run less that 15. My guess is that BRP spec's 20 for the "cushy" ride, not for cornering performance. Mine cane with 18 psi and I first raised it to 20 and saw no noticable difference. I went to 25 and the tire roll was noticeably less with not a lot of degradation in the ride. I suppose I should try 30 just to say I've tried it, but ........

    Baloo is my name. Spyders are my game. Well, it's a doo-bah-dee-doo, yes, it's a doo-bah-dee-doo, I mean a doo-bee, doo-bee, doo-bee, doo-bee, doo-bee-dee-doo. And, well, now. Ha ha! What have we here?



    2020 Petrol Blue Metallic RTL

  22. #47
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    Two ply tires.

  23. #48
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    two-plies...
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

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