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  1. #1
    Active Member srwilli's Avatar
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    Default Seal Floorboards and Braking

    I have had the Seal floorboards installed on my 2012 RT Limited for almost a year and must say right up front I really enjoy them. They allow foot movement and help the comfort on long rides. That being said I do have an issue that I hope someone can help. While returning from my trip to New Orleans, I had to do a hard brake due to a slowdown of traffic. I was not able to engage the anti-lock brakes, and buried the pedal down to the floorboard. My bike only has 8 K miles, but just in case I have taken it to the dealer to have the brakes checked and everything was fine. Contacted John regarding a possible solution by increasing the size of the spacer, he told me that he was not aware of this problem and that a larger spacer was not available. This is not a complaint, I like the floorboards, and want to keep them, but I also want to be able to do an emergency stop. I am looking for recommendations on how to resolve this issue. If anyone else has experienced this and solved it please tell me what you did. John recommended that I put extra washers between the pedal and the spacer, which I have tried but it does not raise the pedal enough to allow an emergency stop.

    Thanks in Advance

    2012 RT Limited
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  2. #2
    GOS member (Girls On Spyders) Spyder_Cowgirl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by srwilli View Post
    I have had the Seal floorboards installed on my 2012 RT Limited for almost a year and must say right up front I really enjoy them. They allow foot movement and help the comfort on long rides. That being said I do have an issue that I hope someone can help. While returning from my trip to New Orleans, I had to do a hard brake due to a slowdown of traffic. I was not able to engage the anti-lock brakes, and buried the pedal down to the floorboard. My bike only has 8 K miles, but just in case I have taken it to the dealer to have the brakes checked and everything was fine. Contacted John regarding a possible solution by increasing the size of the spacer, he told me that he was not aware of this problem and that a larger spacer was not available. This is not a complaint, I like the floorboards, and want to keep them, but I also want to be able to do an emergency stop. I am looking for recommendations on how to resolve this issue. If anyone else has experienced this and solved it please tell me what you did. John recommended that I put extra washers between the pedal and the spacer, which I have tried but it does not raise the pedal enough to allow an emergency stop.

    Thanks in Advance
    Had similar problem after taking the three wheeled safety class .... where the brakes were used frequently and with much hard braking. The brakes were fine, but the pedal travel had increased to the point where the rubber top of the pedal was contacting the edge of the cutout in the seal floorboard. I too contacted John and he suggested adding some washers with a longer screw to create a larger spacer. About that time, there were some posts about some 2013's with factory floorboards that needed a small trim of the rubber to clear the factory board. This is what we ended up doing with mine .... trimmed the rubber in order to allow it to fall into the cutout in the floorboard. Also, since the brakes squealed like a banshee, I had them replaced with units from BajaRon and had some brake quiet applied as well. Replacement of the brake pads raised the pedal a fraction and trimming the rubber made sure that it will always clear the board.

    Best Regards .... Ann
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  3. #3
    Very Active Member Pennyrick's Avatar
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    Default Made my own spacer

    http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...905#post617905

    Here is a link to a thread I posted some time back.

    I had a local machine shop make me an aluminum spacer... that does the trick.
    Penny and Rick have owned many motorcycles starting in 1974 with Honda’s, then to Suzukis, Gold Wings and ultimately Spyders.
    ‘74 Honda 360T (pair); ‘78 Suzuki GS 1000 (pair); ‘’82 Honda Aspencade; ‘84 Honda 400; ‘87 Yamaha 1100; ‘99 Honda Valkyrie; ‘01 Suzuki Burgman(triked); ‘02 Honda GL 1800(triked); ‘10 Spyder RTSE; ‘11 Spyder RTSM; ‘12 Spyder RTSL (pair); ‘20 Spyder RTL (current)


  4. #4
    Active Member Plyrod38's Avatar
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    Default

    I have the same situation. I PM'd John Anderson (Seal Floorboards) and he told me to put some washers under the spacer block and go to the hardware store and get longer bolts.
    I am not happy with that reply. You would think he would man up and come up with a better resolution so we cal all "Ride in Comfort----Safely".
    2012 RT LTD Lava Bronze, Ultimate seat, backrests and fuel door. Two Brothers Titanamium. Laser Alignment, Seals Floorboards. BajaRon Sway Bar and links, Spyderpops blockoff, Grilles, Missing Belt Guard, Bumpskid, Gold Wing Windshield Vent, Kewlmetal Helmet Locks, Rumbling Pride Flag Holders, Cup holders, Signal LED's on mirrors, Baker Built belt stabilizer, gremlin bell, Bad Boy air horn, TricLed 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th taillights and fender LED strips. RT-622 trailer, ........More to come.

  5. #5
    Very Active Member ARtraveler's Avatar
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    Default

    Blocks and spacer washers do work. They raise the pedal up high enough that you should not have problems with bottoming out the pedal on the floorboard.

    Did that with both 's with seals. PS. John really is a good person. The three or so times I contacted him personally, he gave me good information.

    Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.

    Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)

    MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles

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  6. #6
    Active Member Plyrod38's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by akspyderman View Post
    Blocks and spacer washers do work. They raise the pedal up high enough that you should not have problems with bottoming out the pedal on the floorboard.

    Did that with both 's with seals. PS. John really is a good person. The three or so times I contacted him personally, he gave me good information.
    I agree John is a good and cordial person. I just feel that if his product is showing a deficiency, he should stand up and provide us with a fix without having to go to a hardware store remedy. He didn't provide these floorboards for free.
    2012 RT LTD Lava Bronze, Ultimate seat, backrests and fuel door. Two Brothers Titanamium. Laser Alignment, Seals Floorboards. BajaRon Sway Bar and links, Spyderpops blockoff, Grilles, Missing Belt Guard, Bumpskid, Gold Wing Windshield Vent, Kewlmetal Helmet Locks, Rumbling Pride Flag Holders, Cup holders, Signal LED's on mirrors, Baker Built belt stabilizer, gremlin bell, Bad Boy air horn, TricLed 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th taillights and fender LED strips. RT-622 trailer, ........More to come.

  7. #7
    Very Active Member Cruzr Joe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Plyrod38 View Post
    I agree John is a good and cordial person. I just feel that if his product is showing a deficiency, he should stand up and provide us with a fix without having to go to a hardware store remedy. He didn't provide these floorboards for free.

    There is no difference between his floorboards and the other after market floorboards that i am aware of (regarding this specific situation). The extra spacing should be handled by which ever company you purchased them from.

    Cruzr Joe
    2018 F3 Limited, BRP Driver Backrest, Spyderpops Lighted Bump Skid, Dual Spyclops Light, Mirror Turn Signals, Laser Alignment, Engine LEDs, Fog Lights With Halo's, Cushion Handgrips, BRT LEDs, and Under Lighting, Lamonster IPS, (with Clock), F4 25" Vented Windshield with Wings, Airhawk "R" Cushions. Position 4 Brake setting, Short reach Handlebars, Dash Mounted Voltmeter and 12 Volt Plug. Set of 3rd pegs. Extended Passenger Seat. Exterior BRP Connect setup, Ultimate Trailer

  8. #8
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    Default Adjustment

    Quote Originally Posted by srwilli View Post
    I have had the Seal floorboards installed on my 2012 RT Limited for almost a year and must say right up front I really enjoy them. They allow foot movement and help the comfort on long rides. That being said I do have an issue that I hope someone can help. While returning from my trip to New Orleans, I had to do a hard brake due to a slowdown of traffic. I was not able to engage the anti-lock brakes, and buried the pedal down to the floorboard. My bike only has 8 K miles, but just in case I have taken it to the dealer to have the brakes checked and everything was fine. Contacted John regarding a possible solution by increasing the size of the spacer, he told me that he was not aware of this problem and that a larger spacer was not available. This is not a complaint, I like the floorboards, and want to keep them, but I also want to be able to do an emergency stop. I am looking for recommendations on how to resolve this issue. If anyone else has experienced this and solved it please tell me what you did. John recommended that I put extra washers between the pedal and the spacer, which I have tried but it does not raise the pedal enough to allow an emergency stop.

    Thanks in Advance
    I have the Seal Pups and love them. I am able to execute a hard stop. Last month I noticed the pedal travel had increased and was a bit soft. The dealer did some sort of adjustment or fluid change that corrected it.

  9. #9
    Very Active Member napper39's Avatar
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    Default

    when i had seals on my 2010 rs i had the same proublem and i went to the hardware store and found a thick spacer, that did the trick.

  10. #10
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    Perhaps if some of you contacted Joh with your concerns; he'd see that this is an "issue" that won't go away. I'm pretty darn sure that he'd find a way to have a solution available for everyone.
    ...And I'm ashamed to admit that i've never owned any of his products; but I've talked to him, and believe him to be a very honest man.
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  11. #11
    Very Active Member ARtraveler's Avatar
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    I have been under the impression that all new Sealfloorboards come with the spacer blocks. I ordered mine separately from John because I received boards without spacers.

    If you bought used--your probably on your own. If you bought new, I would recommend talking with John.

    When I sold my deluxe ones recently, I included the spacers with them.

    Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.

    Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)

    MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles

    IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
    2020 F3L , Magma Red

  12. #12
    Active Member srwilli's Avatar
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    I thought I was clear in my original post. I did talk to John. He said that the spacer block I received was the only size provided, and then recommended that I put washers between the spacer and the pedal. I did that, three for each bolt, it did not raise the pedal enough. Once again, I am not complaining, just looking for a solution that someone has discovered. So far, going to a machine shop and having another spacer made seems like the best suggestion. If John had told me he could make another larger spacer but I would have to pay for it, I would have done that, I guess trying the washers was an inexpensive suggestion. Still need a spacer. I have also enlarged the cut out on the floorboard so that when the pedal goes below the board it doesn't get stuck.

    2012 RT Limited
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  13. #13
    Very Active Member ARtraveler's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by srwilli View Post
    I thought I was clear in my original post. I did talk to John. He said that the spacer block I received was the only size provided, and then recommended that I put washers between the spacer and the pedal. I did that, three for each bolt, it did not raise the pedal enough. Once again, I am not complaining, just looking for a solution that someone has discovered. So far, going to a machine shop and having another spacer made seems like the best suggestion. If John had told me he could make another larger spacer but I would have to pay for it, I would have done that, I guess trying the washers was an inexpensive suggestion. Still need a spacer. I have also enlarged the cut out on the floorboard so that when the pedal goes below the board it doesn't get stuck.
    Sorry, I did overlook the part about the spacer. Is it possible your brakes need adjusting? That could result in to much travel of the brake pedal. I do realize that you need to get the issue solved. When you need to stop hard and fast, you cannot afford to have the pedal bottoming out and not giving you a full stop. I have had to make one panic stop, and the set up worked for me without bottoming out. Sounds like further investigation is needed. Please keep us informed, I am also interested is seeing that your problem is solved.

    Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.

    Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)

    MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles

    IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
    2020 F3L , Magma Red

  14. #14
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    Have you checked your brake fluid reservoirs? If they're a bit low; that affects the pedal quite a bit!
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  15. #15
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    We put Weboard brand floor boards on our RT and I can verify that if you need to panic stop,there is plenty of room for pedal travel.We were on our way to to Tn. this weekend and had the bad timing of going through Atlanta at rush hour.We were pulling our trailer that was loaded and two up when a car panic stopped in front of us and I had to use all of the braking power to get it stopped. There was no problem with the floorboards getting in the way of the brake pedal and believe me ,I was standing on it.

  16. #16
    Very Active Member DR Buck's Avatar
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    There is also linkage adjustment that will allow you to raise thepedal somewhat.
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  17. #17
    Active Member srwilli's Avatar
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    I took the bike to the dealer last week and the brakes checked fine. I will look in the maint manual for the linkage adjustment

    2012 RT Limited
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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by DR Buck View Post
    There is also linkage adjustment that will allow you to raise thepedal somewhat.
    Can you give us some more information on that?
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  19. #19
    Very Active Member DR Buck's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    Can you give us some more information on that?

    Its an adjustment behind the lower casting. Not easy to get to, but is In the service manual.
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  20. #20
    Active Member srwilli's Avatar
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    I have not been able to locate the adjustment you mention in the service manual. If you can provide a page number I would greatly appreciate it. I have only found the Master Cylinder adjustment that requires a jig and is performed if you remove the pedal.

    Thks


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    2012 RT Limited
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    Seal Floorboards
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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by DR Buck View Post
    Its an adjustment behind the lower casting. Not easy to get to, but is In the service manual.
    Are you talking about the rod which connects to that bellcrank sort of a deal; that the brakelight switches use for activation?

    What would make PERFECT sense; is the lower connecting rod to have a threaded screw adjustment system built into it.
    (Somebody go get JT; I bet he could build it!)
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  22. #22
    Active Member crazyspyder's Avatar
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    Post modify

    yaah I'm one of the earlier first customer to get them , and I informed him of the dangerous situation. I almost rear ended a BUG when that pedal got rammed flushed to his boards without stopping hard!
    his come with a spacer that is wayyy tooo short in height (about a 1/4 to 3/8) . he told me then he remachining blocks to new specs. but I do agree he is a respectable man!
    I am a machinist and made my own block.100_4610.jpg 100_4611.jpg difference from original kit. aluminum is the mod.
    '' RIDE -WINE - DINE LIKE ITS YOUR LAST DAY- SO MAKE IT COUNT DAILY''
    2013 ram 1500 RT HEMI 405 Hp
    2012 spyder RT + cat-bypass, mod muffler, PCV + auto tune, HID headlight n foggers, seal floorboards, LED's every where, supercharged ..not!
    2012 Fiat c500 conv.

  23. #23
    Active Member srwilli's Avatar
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    Would you be willing to make another one for me.. I would pay a reasonable price😄


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    2012 RT Limited
    SpiderWrap Graphics
    KewlMetal DualKewl FenderZ Running Lights
    TricLED Dual Running & Brake Lights
    Seal Floorboards
    Bajaron Anti-Sway Bar
    Utopia Backrest
    Diamond R Luggage Rack
    SpyderPops Upper Blockoff
    SpyderPops Catalytic Converter Shield

  24. #24
    Rockin Member Macca's Avatar
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    I added these 1" spacers I found online.
    uploadfromtaptalk1398477780781.jpg
    uploadfromtaptalk1398477819106.jpg

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    2011 Pearl White RT Limited
    HMT Brake Light, Fender Tips Kit, Mudflap Lights, GloRyders, Seal Floorboards, Powerlet 12V, Garage Door Momentary Button, Bump Skid, Elka's Stage 1, Ultimate Sea, Air Wings

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  25. #25
    Active Member crazyspyder's Avatar
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    Default yeah - I could...

    Quote Originally Posted by srwilli View Post
    Would you be willing to make another one for me.. I would pay a reasonable price��


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
    yes I can , if you willing to sit tight while I make a duplicate of mine. you have the 2012 Rt Se5 ? .....did I say free. yes it would be! send me a PM to start comm.
    '' RIDE -WINE - DINE LIKE ITS YOUR LAST DAY- SO MAKE IT COUNT DAILY''
    2013 ram 1500 RT HEMI 405 Hp
    2012 spyder RT + cat-bypass, mod muffler, PCV + auto tune, HID headlight n foggers, seal floorboards, LED's every where, supercharged ..not!
    2012 Fiat c500 conv.

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