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  1. #26
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    Your always going to have some instances of boiling fuel due to the design. Fuel can boil at a pretty low temp, and ethanol even lower, so having a hot motor/exhaust real close to the tank, it would be expected. You would either need to relocate the tank, significantly change the exhaust routing or change the motor with an inline to rout the exhaust out the front then down and under.
    Boiling fuel happens on a lot of platforms and is not totally unusual. Also, keep in mind that canisters and purge valves are not common place on motorcycles either....,

    Sent from my Venue 8 3830 using Tapatalk

  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by SNOOPY View Post
    I have the panels coming for one.

    Also have JTs air filter in the garage which should clear up some space.
    .
    Mount that baby under the Tupperware, and it'll clear up all kinds of space... in your garage!!
    Git 'er done!
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  3. #28
    Very Active Member jcthorne's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rattigan_Roger View Post
    Because the fuel boils after the engine is stopped and the canister becomes inundated with fumes that return to liquid gasoline
    Problem is, it happens engine running or not. The fumes are BAD sitting at a traffic light.

    Blue Flame Spyder F3-S
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  4. #29
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    Default "Due to the design"

    I keep reading the above statement in posts here, so this is clearly a BRP problem they need to address, fix, and repair for all on their dime.

  5. #30
    Very Active Member SNOOPY's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    Mount that baby under the Tupperware, and it'll clear up all kinds of space... in your garage!!
    Git 'er done!


    Waiting for new panels to hopefully do it all at once, getting tired of taking panels off every other week.....maybe I should just leave all the panels off...then i wouldn't have any heat issue at all.

    .

  6. #31
    Very Active Member SNOOPY's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vrooom View Post
    I keep reading the above statement in posts here, so this is clearly a BRP problem they need to address, fix, and repair for all on their dime.








  7. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by SNOOPY View Post
    Waiting for new panels to hopefully do it all at once, getting tired of taking panels off every other week.....maybe I should just leave all the panels off...then i wouldn't have any heat issue at all.
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  8. #33
    Active Member Craniac's Avatar
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    Finally had a chance to ride it after the "repair". I filled the tank and was very careful not to "overfill". Hit the brakes hard a couple times to see if I could force any fuel up into the first filter. Then I rode for about 45 minutes. Low 70's temp.
    Opened the seat and checked the filters.

    The first filter had some gas in it, Keep in mind that the filter is a couple inches higher than the highest part of the factory line.

    No liquid fuel in the second filter..

    The gas smell is greatly diminished.

    I think I will keep having the gas odor until my canister dries out. Also it was much cooler today so heat might not be as much a problem.

    I am pretty convinced that the factory tank vent hose allows raw fuel to pour into the Evap Canister when hitting the brakes with a near full tank. Overfilling is NOT the problem. BRP needs to fix this!

  9. #34
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    They did... PIMS NYC 012.jpg
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  10. #35
    Active Member Craniac's Avatar
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    I'm glad they fixed it for '14. They need to fix for previous years.

  11. #36
    Registered Users Dat Guy's Avatar
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    I wonder if this has anything to do with my abysmal gas mileage. Mine radiates heat and vapors all the time, and all the while I'm imagining nickles and dimes floating away through the air as it does so...

  12. #37
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    Could you have a purge valve that's acting a bit wonky?
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  13. #38
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    Default Gas fumes and mpg

    Quote Originally Posted by Dat Guy View Post
    I wonder if this has anything to do with my abysmal gas mileage. Mine radiates heat and vapors all the time, and all the while I'm imagining nickles and dimes floating away through the air as it does so...
    If you want to stop the gas fumes wrapped the modifold pipes. It will stop the boiling of the gas plus keep it cooler under the plastic. What helped my mpg beside cooling the compartment was changing the air box to a new 12" round air cleaner. Now I have more power at 3K rpms then I did at 4K+ rpms. my mpg went from 20-27 to 28-36 and no more strong smell of gas fumes. RJ

  14. #39
    Very Active Member jwulf74's Avatar
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    Did you do anything with the cat like wrap it or remove it? Seems like that is a high heat source right under the gas tank.
    2017 Can Am Commander Limited
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  15. #40
    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
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    Craniac, Interesting thread you started and thanks for sharing. I was thinking the same thing for those who are having this problem. To run the vent hose as high as possible before looping down to reduce or prevent liquid gas from entering the canister. This should add some evidence for against if it's an overfilling cause or contributing factor. The clear gas filter is a great idea. What was your thinking for the extra loops of hose around the frame?

    Depending on your results I may do the same thing. I have not had any gas smell issues on my 2013 ST, but it would be easy, cheap insurance. I do know what it's like because my 2009 GS would smell from time to time.

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  16. #41
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    Default Gas fumes and mpg

    Quote Originally Posted by jwulf74 View Post
    Did you do anything with the cat like wrap it or remove it? Seems like that is a high heat source right under the gas tank.
    No I left the cat alone and yes it does put out heat but not to the gas tank. It was the 2 manifold pipes that was heating up the gas tank and creating all the gas fumes. When I wrapped the manifold pipes it cooled it down so much that I didn't have a boiling gas tank or hot glove box. then I took out the factory air box and replaced it with Air Filter Kit Performance Can-Am Spyder RS and RT,
    http://www.kewlmetalstore.com/index....f71b20b3a27625 I get 25% more air and a deep throat sound plus more mpg as well as more power. What a world of a difference and I can now see the top of the engine as well as getting to the front spark plug easy. That in proved my power and mpg. You can replace your cat that looks like that cat but a strait flow instead. RT Cat-Bypass is now available at www.spyder1attitude.com. RJ

  17. #42
    Active Member Craniac's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by billybovine View Post
    Craniac, What was your thinking for the extra loops of hose around the frame?
    That may be the first time someone has accused me of thinking.

    Actually it was the only way I could get six feet of hose added without getting it too close to moving/hot parts.
    I bought six feet of hose, I was going to use six feet of hose. No thinking involved!

  18. #43
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    This is the big problem to some of us who want to do what the BRP suppose to be their responsibility.
    2012 Spyder RT SE5 Brake pedal mod

  19. #44
    Active Member Craniac's Avatar
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    In the mid 80's today. Started out about 1.5 gallons below full. So it was NOT overfilled! Checked the fuel filter/sight glasses before the ride. Did not see any fuel in either one. Rode about 60 miles. Checked both again. Right one did not have any fuel in it. Left one had a little raw fuel in it. Once again, this is a couple inches higher than the highest point for the factory hose routing.
    Spyder Evap 004.jpg
    This fuel would have gone into the Evap Canister.

  20. #45
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    Default My Attempt at the Fixing the Horrid Fuel Smell

    Quote Originally Posted by Craniac View Post
    In the mid 80's today. Started out about 1.5 gallons below full. So it was NOT overfilled! Checked the fuel filter/sight glasses before the ride. Did not see any fuel in either one. Rode about 60 miles. Checked both again. Right one did not have any fuel in it. Left one had a little raw fuel in it. Once again, this is a couple inches higher than the highest point for the factory hose routing.
    Spyder Evap 004.jpg
    This fuel would have gone into the Evap Canister.
    If you want to stop the gas fumes wrapped the modifold pipes. It will stop the boiling of the gas plus keep it cooler under the plastic. What helped my mpg beside cooling the compartment was changing the air box to a new 12" round air cleaner. Now I have more power at 3K rpms then I did at 4K+ rpms. my mpg went from 20-27 to 28-36 and no more strong smell of gas fumes. RJ

  21. #46
    Active Member Craniac's Avatar
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    Went back to the garage after the bike had sat awhile. The fuel smell was back. Looked under the bike at the overflow hose and I could see the vapors pouring out. Don't know of it is from today's ride or just some fuel left in the canister that is evaporating.

    I found a couple articles on the 'net about rebuilding Evap Canisters. Looks easy. You go the pet store and buy some activated charcoal and replace the old charcoal. The trick is getting the canister open. I don't know if the Spyder canister is designed to be serviced or if it would have to be cut open. Anyone have one out of the bike?

  22. #47
    Active Member jrk36's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge707 View Post
    I am sorry! I did not realize many people have to go 100 miles to the next town?
    I live in Broome in regional Western Australia and when I leave town heading south the next fuel stop is 295km (183 miles) away! Mind you I always carry spare fuel when heading that way!
    John K
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  23. #48
    Very Active Member SNOOPY's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Craniac View Post
    Went back to the garage after the bike had sat awhile. The fuel smell was back. Looked under the bike at the overflow hose and I could see the vapors pouring out. Don't know of it is from today's ride or just some fuel left in the canister that is evaporating.

    I found a couple articles on the 'net about rebuilding Evap Canisters. Looks easy. You go the pet store and buy some activated charcoal and replace the old charcoal. The trick is getting the canister open. I don't know if the Spyder canister is designed to be serviced or if it would have to be cut open. Anyone have one out of the bike?

    I would guess its sealed. May be easier to just replace ...of course I say that not knowing if a new one is reasonably priced or not.

  24. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Craniac View Post
    I found a couple articles on the 'net about rebuilding Evap Canisters. Looks easy. You go the pet store and buy some activated charcoal and replace the old charcoal. The trick is getting the canister open. I don't know if the Spyder canister is designed to be serviced or if it would have to be cut open. Anyone have one out of the bike?
    Quote Originally Posted by Rattigan_Roger View Post
    Canister lists for 66.99
    709000090 Vapor Canister Evaporative emission component. $66.99
    Buy a new one. To say they are sealed is an understatement. They are impenetrable. I cut my old one apart with a hacksaw to see the design. Not fun. An in and out swap with a new one is quick and easy.

    Don't be disappointed if it does not help. It did not help mine. My old canister was fine and a brand new one was no better. Ditto for the purge valve.

    RT and Gold Wing States & Provinces

  25. #50
    Active Member Craniac's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gypsy_100 View Post
    I cut my old one apart with a hacksaw to see the design.
    I am interested in the internals. Were there any valves inside?
    I was thinking about cutting in in half, lengthening it, replacing the charcoal and mounting it where the '14's mount.

    Mine already has the heat shielding so BRP tried and failed.

    pics would be a huge help.

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