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  1. #1
    Active Member ZDarkman's Avatar
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    Default Need help with 2012 RT-S (SM5) adjusting shifter linkage after installing floorboards

    I started installing Seal floorboards (RT SM5 PUP DLX) back in December but had to stop because I kept getting a cold after laying on the garage floor after the cold weather arrived here in NJ.

    At the time of the installation, I replaced the shifter arm with the new one that came with the kit and thought I kept the linkage exactly at the same length. At that time I did not turn or twist the linkage arm at all. Just unbolted the old arm and linkage and bolted on the new arm with re-attached the linkage.

    After that I went to start it and check everything out, but could not get it into neutral only 3rd, 4th, and 5th. Since then I took the shifter and linkage off several times and made several adjustments but the best I could get is 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th. I do not have the correct tools at this time to make this job easier. So each time I need to make an adjustment to the linkage bar, I must remove the shifter arm. I do not have the proper tools to leave the shifter arm on and just remove the linkage. I do not have an offset 10 mm wrench to just take off the linkage arm from the shifter.

    My question is, is there a trick to re-adjusting the linkage arm such as putting the bike in 2nd gear and then try adjust the linkage arm from more of a mid way point. I thought this would be a 1 2 3 process, but WOW, was I wrong.

    Any help would be deeply appreciated.

  2. #2
    Active Member ZDarkman's Avatar
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    Default Everythink OK for now, this thread is CLOSED :)

    After adjusting the linkage so I can at least get my foot under the shifter to up shift, I still could only get it in 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th gear. I then checked all over to make sure there was any interference with the movement with the shifter or linkage, didn't find any problems there. Everything looked good, so I figure let's just start it, maybe that would take care of it, and sure enough it did. After running it and then shifting thru the gears, everything was there. Took it for a 100 ft ride and everything seem to be fine.

    Will put some miles on it later to be absolutely sure since it's going to hit 70 here in NJ.

    Ryde ON

  3. #3
    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default Tricky..!!

    Without the right tools it can be tricky. Glad you got it and you should be fine. Enjoy the changes and the ryde...
    Gene and Ilana De Laney
    Mt. Helix, California

    ​2012 RS sm5
    2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black

  4. #4
    Registered Users Venenosa's Avatar
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    Default How r those pups?

    I'm considering purchasing the pups for my 12 RT SM5. I was wondering how u like them and about the hard braking and the shifting...any problems with those 2 things? If you have pics, I would love to c them on.

    Thanks!

  5. #5
    Active Member Plyrod38's Avatar
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    Default

    Interesting screen name, I am originally from the Lehigh Valley, and my old German Grandfather would tell me that when I asked a question that he didn't want to answer.
    Regarding the Seal Pups, I feel they would be the best option since your brake pedal would work without any chance of bottoming out on the floor board. I have the Deluxe boards on my RT and sometimes it gets scary when I need to do a quick stop and my boot gets real close to the board before the bike stops.
    2012 RT LTD Lava Bronze, Ultimate seat, backrests and fuel door. Two Brothers Titanamium. Laser Alignment, Seals Floorboards. BajaRon Sway Bar and links, Spyderpops blockoff, Grilles, Missing Belt Guard, Bumpskid, Gold Wing Windshield Vent, Kewlmetal Helmet Locks, Rumbling Pride Flag Holders, Cup holders, Signal LED's on mirrors, Baker Built belt stabilizer, gremlin bell, Bad Boy air horn, TricLed 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th taillights and fender LED strips. RT-622 trailer, ........More to come.

  6. #6
    Registered Users Venenosa's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Plyrod38 View Post
    Interesting screen name, I am originally from the Lehigh Valley, and my old German Grandfather would tell me that when I asked a question that he didn't want to answer.
    Regarding the Seal Pups, I feel they would be the best option since your brake pedal would work without any chance of bottoming out on the floor board. I have the Deluxe boards on my RT and sometimes it gets scary when I need to do a quick stop and my boot gets real close to the board before the bike stops.
    Thanks for the info!

  7. #7
    Active Member ZDarkman's Avatar
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    Default Love the floorboards!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by Venenosa View Post
    I'm considering purchasing the pups for my 12 RT SM5. I was wondering how u like them and about the hard braking and the shifting...any problems with those 2 things? If you have pics, I would love to c them on.

    Thanks!
    Totally love the floorboards. They are well built and heavy duty. I installed highway pegs as soon as I got the bike so I chose the pup DLX floorboards so I didn't have to take them off. The highway pegs and floorboards work very well together. I like to take my turns fast and hard so with the floorboards, I can plant my feet at various angles and positions on them.

    Sometimes I am concerned about the braking, so I will look into a bigger spacer to lift the pedal a little higher. Also someone mentioned there is a way to adjust the brake pedal height so I will look into that as well but I am aware of it so right now it is not a crucial problem.

    There is no problem with the shifting because the linkage is adjustable so you will be able to give yourself enough room to get your foot under the pedal for upshifting.

    I posted some pictures of the floorboards in another photo album under my screen name.

    Hope this helps a little.

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