oil filter

[faithit]

I'm wondering if there is the possibility of using a spin-on oil filter for the spyder?
Any ideas?
faithit

[Bionic Pope]

No way. No how.

Why would you want to anyway?

[3tracs]

Found this old post while doing a search on filters...

I'd love a spin on filter for the Spyder. I had a Jardine oil filter relocation kit put on my Yamaha V-Star and it made oil change a lot quicker, plus the extra oil the filter could hold couldn't of been a bad thing.

Is there a kit for the Rotax motor that allows use of a spin-on type filter? It looks like there would be enough room to fit one.

Thoughts???

Harry

[zeebill]

If there was it might also help with the fact that three dealers in very differemt parts of the country have had the second smaller filter for the SE5 on back order for over two months now. That is totally ridiculous but a sad fact of life I guess? The V Star had a really horrible spot for the oil filter as I remember. Bill

[3tracs]

If there was it might also help with the fact that three dealers in very differemt parts of the country have had the second smaller filter for the SE5 on back order for over two months now. That is totally ridiculous but a sad fact of life I guess? The V Star had a really horrible spot for the oil filter as I remember. Bill

You're right, before I put the Jardine kit on, I'd have to remove the exhaust to do an oil change. The kit took an hour and a half job and cut it down to 30 minutes!

[NancysToy]

You're right, before I put the Jardine kit on, I'd have to remove the exhaust to do an oil change. The kit took an hour and a half job and cut it down to 30 minutes!

That's why many Yamaha owners install the filter kit. I'm sure it was the main reason the aftermarket developed it. The Spyder still has to have body panels removed, etc., and there are only two screws for the filter cover, so I doubt there is a driving force for the aftermarket to come up with an adapter. Nothing much to be gained.

[M2Wild]

I'm wondering if there is the possibility of using a spin-on oil filter for the spyder?
Any ideas?
faithit

That would been the smart thing for BRP to do. But why do most of the cars have their filter located in the near impossible place to get to? Same reason BRP did with their stupid setup .... They make it difficult enough for you to want to take it to a dealer. Then its CHA-CHING time. Why do you think so many here complaint about the $250 dealer charges for oil change? LOL

[boborgera]

That would been the smart thing for BRP to do. But why do most of the cars have their filter located in the near impossible place to get to? Same reason BRP did with their stupid setup .... They make it difficult enough for you to want to take it to a dealer. Then its CHA-CHING time. Why do you think so many here complaint about the $250 dealer charges for oil change? LOL

I'm sure the people who design these things don't work on them.
Just like the side view mirrors, I dont think they ever rode the Spyder
in traffic ?/?

[NancysToy]

That would been the smart thing for BRP to do. But why do most of the cars have their filter located in the near impossible place to get to? Same reason BRP did with their stupid setup .... They make it difficult enough for you to want to take it to a dealer. Then its CHA-CHING time. Why do you think so many here complaint about the $250 dealer charges for oil change? LOL

I'm sure the filter location is no nerfarious plot by the manufacturers to force you to get your oil changed by a dealer or a professional. Oil filter location on any engine is more a matter of design considerations. There are actually precious few good places to put it. I suspect many manufacturers would love to have it handy on the bottom of the engine, like a small-block Chevy, but it has to be close to the oil pump, and has to allow room for other mechanical needs. The real trouble with modern vehicles is that they put a ton of accessories and components in a small space, then stuff the whole shebang under tight, aerodynamic or sporty bodywork. All those panels and screws need to be removed at oil change time, and often other components interfere. Same problem whether it is a Spyder, modern car, crotch rocket, or sport-touring bike.

I personally prefer removing a couple of screws and a cover to get to a canister filter than to try to get a special tool onto the filter and try to find a way to get enough leverage to remove the spin-on on my BMW or my Ford truck. An alternative is to punch the filter with a long screwdriver and use that for leverage, but there are still frequent clearance issues...plus it is messy! I think it is pretty simple to change the filter on our SM5. Maybe the tranny filter on the SE5 is more difficult. I have never seen one to know.

[Dudley]

I'm sure the filter location is no nerfarious plot by the manufacturers to force you to get your oil changed by a dealer or a professional. Oil filter location on any engine is more a matter of design considerations. There are actually precious few good places to put it. I suspect many manufacturers would love to have it handy on the bottom of the engine, like a small-block Chevy, but it has to be close to the oil pump, and has to allow room for other mechanical needs. The real trouble with modern vehicles is that they put a ton of accessories and components in a small space, then stuff the whole shebang under tight, aerodynamic or sporty bodywork. All those panels and screws need to be removed at oil change time, and often other components interfere. Same problem whether it is a Spyder, modern car, crotch rocket, or sport-touring bike.

I personally prefer removing a couple of screws and a cover to get to a canister filter than to try to get a special tool onto the filter and try to find a way to get enough leverage to remove the spin-on on my BMW or my Ford truck. An alternative is to punch the filter with a long screwdriver and use that for leverage, but there are still frequent clearance issues...plus it is messy! I think it is pretty simple to change the filter on our SM5. Maybe the tranny filter on the SE5 is more difficult. I have never seen one to know.

I have changed them both...a piece of cake. The transmission filter is the one that oil falls between the cooling fins, but Simple Green and a water hose and that cleans up easy. When I change the oil, I like taking my time and look for things that may be out of order, so while looking, the oil is dripping into the pan. After the oil has finished dripping I remove the oil filter. Minimal drip and easy off and on. The transmission filter is even easier to reach, but that's only every 12K miles or so.

[Firefly]

That would been the smart thing for BRP to do. But why do most of the cars have their filter located in the near impossible place to get to? Same reason BRP did with their stupid setup .... They make it difficult enough for you to want to take it to a dealer. Then its CHA-CHING time. Why do you think so many here complaint about the $250 dealer charges for oil change? LOL

Well, I've not heard of people paying quite that much for a Spyder oil change. Pretty sure the going rate is around $100.

I can do mine easily in 45 minutes - probably 1/2 hour if I'm jammin....

I could understand if you changed the oil every month--- but since most do it 2-4 times a year--- it just isn't that big of a deal. I would be careful using an aftermarket filter system--- you never know what kind of problems you might introduce to the system--- and this is a dry-sump--- which is a bit different beast.

I like the way they have it set up--- always hated those spin-ons--- usually a PITA to remove---in tight spaces at least.

[BajaRon]

Wow! I just don't get the auto-trash BRP mode that some seem to go to as 1st resort.

I've had a lot of motorcycles and the Spyder is on the easy side of the scale for oil changes. The 990 Rotax is a sport bike motor. You don't design a sport bike with spin on filters hanging off of it (as a rule).

Compact size is at a premium on this engine. Sure, we have tons of room to hang things on the Spyder but the engineers did not have the Spyder in mind when they built this power plant.

It amazes me that people will happily line up to pay more for a can of generic oil just because it has a BRP label slapped on the front (same for filters, etc.) when there are as good or better products out there for less money. Then complain about how much the dealer charges to do service work.

Now I am not against people paying too much for generic products because they have the manufacturers label on it. If they want to do that it's fine with me. But the Spyder is not all that difficult to change oil on. I just don't see why owners can't either do their own or be willing to pay the dealer for it.

I don't mean to be harsh but I look at it this way. Pick one or the other and be happy!

[BajaRon]

I would be careful using an aftermarket filter system--- you never know what kind of problems you might introduce to the system--- and this is a dry-sump--- which is a bit different beast.

You should always look into whatever aftermarket product you use.

As for filters, oil, O-Rings, etc., the manufacturer (BRP in this case) will contract with a reputable company that produces these products, have them make to their specs (if it is not something the company already produces), have them put the product in a package with the BRP label / part number and sell it.

Many times the company that manufactures the product will put the same item into their label, give it a different part number (or maybe not) and sell it for a much lower price.

In this case your getting the same product for less money. Some like to do things this way, others don't. But it is a viable, sensible option. Especially for those that like to do their own work.

As for the dry-sump aspect, this really has nothing to do with filtration. It simply means oil storage is external instead of internal (crank case). This is done to make the engine more compact and allows the engineers to shave inches off the bottom of the engine case.

[M2Wild]

Compact size is at a premium on this engine. Sure, we have tons of room to hang things on the Spyder but the engineers did not have the Spyder in mind when they built this power plant.

That a good point.

[Firefly]

You should always look into whatever aftermarket product you use.

As for filters, oil, O-Rings, etc., the manufacturer (BRP in this case) will contract with a reputable company that produces these products, have them make to their specs (if it is not something the company already produces), have them put the product in a package with the BRP label / part number and sell it.

Many times the company that manufactures the product will put the same item into their label, give it a different part number (or maybe not) and sell it for a much lower price.

In this case your getting the same product for less money. Some like to do things this way, others don't. But it is a viable, sensible option. Especially for those that like to do their own work.

As for the dry-sump aspect, this really has nothing to do with filtration. It simply means oil storage is external instead of internal (crank case). This is done to make the engine more compact and allows the engineers to shave inches off the bottom of the engine case.

By 'aftermarket oil systems' , I was referring to one of those by-pass oil filtration systems like the ones that Amsoil sells. I've not seen a rotax-specific unit--- therefore I would be cautious of rigging one to work with the 990-- could throw a fault on the oil pressure, etc....

Seems there are 2 options for filters for the Spyder--- and neither is going to break someone's wallet too bad. $30 - $60 a year on oil filters to keep a $20K toy running well is pretty cheap in my book....

[spyder1]

Wow! I just don't get the auto-trash BRP mode that some seem to go to as 1st resort.

I've had a lot of motorcycles and the Spyder is on the easy side of the scale for oil changes. The 990 Rotax is a sport bike motor. You don't design a sport bike with spin on filters hanging off of it (as a rule).

Compact size is at a premium on this engine. Sure, we have tons of room to hang things on the Spyder but the engineers did not have the Spyder in mind when they built this power plant.

It amazes me that people will happily line up to pay more for a can of generic oil just because it has a BRP label slapped on the front (same for filters, etc.) when there are as good or better products out there for less money. Then complain about how much the dealer charges to do service work.

Now I am not against people paying too much for generic products because they have the manufacturers label on it. If they want to do that it's fine with me. But the Spyder is not all that difficult to change oil on. I just don't see why owners can't either do their own or be willing to pay the dealer for it.

I don't mean to be harsh but I look at it this way. Pick one or the other and be happy!

very well put BajaRon

[BajaRon]

By 'aftermarket oil systems' , I was referring to one of those by-pass oil filtration systems like the ones that Amsoil sells. I've not seen a rotax-specific unit--- therefore I would be cautious of rigging one to work with the 990-- could throw a fault on the oil pressure, etc....

Seems there are 2 options for filters for the Spyder--- and neither is going to break someone's wallet too bad. $30 - $60 a year on oil filters to keep a $20K toy running well is pretty cheap in my book....

Ok, thanks for the clarification. It takes me longer to figure things out than say....NancysToy. I thought you meant aftermarket replacement filters.

I think it would be pretty tough to rig up something for a remote spin-on filter for the Spyder. I guess it might make the oil change a bit easier but I just don't see a great advantage there.

Still, to each his own. If someone came up with a slick system I'd take a look at it.