Ignition End Of Seat Latch Cable

[poogiethe1st]

2013 St-Limited:

Does anyone know what body panels or otherwise needs to be removed to access the back of the ignition switch where the seat latch cable attaches? I'm looking for a step-by-step procedure. I have the factory service manual, both digital and paper, and I can't seem to find anything that shows how to address this area. I'm hoping that there's a simple way in without tearing the entire front of the bike off. I'm sure that my cable is bound up there and won't allow me to turn the key; therefore, I need to get in there and 'readjust' everything so that the seat latch will work as it should.

Also, can anyone tell me if this is something that might be addressed quickly and efficiently by a vendor at Spyderfest 2014. The bike is still under warranty and I don't trust the dealers in my area.

[Larry rt]

Need to clarify one thing , you stated could not tun key, while pushing down , or you can turn 2820 N. Glenstone Ave., Springfield, Missouri 65803
key but seat latch will not release ?

[Gordy]

have to replace the cable on mine as well seized up have to use a long screwdriver to open seat

[Yazz]

2013 St-Limited:

Does anyone know what body panels or otherwise needs to be removed to access the back of the ignition switch where the seat latch cable attaches? I'm looking for a step-by-step procedure. I have the factory service manual, both digital and paper, and I can't seem to find anything that shows how to address this area. I'm hoping that there's a simple way in without tearing the entire front of the bike off. I'm sure that my cable is bound up there and won't allow me to turn the key; therefore, I need to get in there and 'readjust' everything so that the seat latch will work as it should.

Also, can anyone tell me if this is something that might be addressed quickly and efficiently by a vendor at Spyderfest 2014. The bike is still under warranty and I don't trust the dealers in my area.

More people will help you in a bit. Just have to say I hate it when the Maintenance Manuel doesn't tell you about what you want to know.

PitBull PowerSports, the sponsor for Spyderfest is the best of the best. It's better to get to Spyderfest a few days early before the rush comes if you need work on your Spyder. Once the Fest starts, it gets crazy down there. Give them a call and set up an appointment. They are good people.

Hope your seat latch is working properly before Spyderfest comes...

[warp10]

try pushing down on the lid while turning the key. it will take the pressure off the latch.

[poogiethe1st]

Need to clarify one thing , you stated could not tun key, while pushing down , or you can turn 2820 N. Glenstone Ave., Springfield, Missouri 65803
key but seat latch will not release ?

I can only turn the key part of the way. By removing the right side cover, I can pull on the cable and release the seat; therefore, it's not the latch or the plunger. With the seat up, the key will still not turn all the way to actuate the seat release, AND IT DEFINITELY SHOULD! It has to be on the ignition end; therefore, I need help figuring out how to access the back of the ignition where the cables for the seat and "frunk" are attached to the igniton. The cable must be bound up there. I need a step-by-step procedure for removing whatever is necessary to access that area.

[poogiethe1st]

try pushing down on the lid while turning the key. it will take the pressure off the latch.

It's not the problem. The problem has been diagnosed. I need help with the fix as stated.

[jwulf74]

I took the wife's handlebars off to get powder coated... I hate to say that you will have to take the dash and most of the stuff behind it to even be able to get to the switch. Just got the parts back tonight re-assembling this weekend and I will be double checking everything before I put it all back together to make sure latched disengage and everything. It is a major pita to get to those connections.

On the plus side, it appears that her glove box latch never was hooked up and I am able to correct that now that I have everything torn apart. The cables all attach pretty much on the front (bike front) side of the switch so you shouldn't have to take the handlebars off which is even worse...

[BMWpilot]

It's not the problem. The problem has been diagnosed. I need help with the fix as stated.

Remove the upper side panels, speaker covers (may not be necessary in your case) and the dash outer (front) cover. You have to work your fingers under the d**m cover for the center handle bar to get to the ignition switch and the cables. I also removed the center panel that holds the parking brake switch, which means you'll have to remove the connectors from the switch. I had the mid side panels off also, but I don't remember if that was really necessary. I also pulled off the mirrors, and their mount brackets. A neat thing that I later found out was that the top plastic portion of the mirrors swings outboard after you remove the lower clear section. That helps when you pull the top part of the mirror upward after popping the mirror from the two lower pin retainer holes. And like JWulf says, you almost have to take the dash out to have clear access to the switch on the ST.

A medium long pair of bent nose hemostats might help when you reach under to get the cable end. However I took the brute force route and cut the entire cover off and replaced it with a new one later. (I was replacing the handlebar).

However, maybe you can figure out what's binding once you can get a look at the switch with an inspection mirror or flexible end video cam. You'll also be able to trace the cable run from the handlebar once the panels are off.

To tell you the truth, the amount of frustration this will generate almost calls for a dealer tech to work the problem. I have the ST manual, and it flat out lies to you regarding some ST differences. In the pictures you've noticed the RT, and older RS handlebars and how they say you are to access the ignition switch? Ha!...

Ed A. 2013 ST-S SM5

[poogiethe1st]

Remove the upper side panels, speaker covers (may not be necessary in your case) and the dash outer (front) cover. You have to work your fingers under the d**m cover for the center handle bar to get to the ignition switch and the cables. I also removed the center panel that holds the parking brake switch, which means you'll have to remove the connectors from the switch. I had the mid side panels off also, but I don't remember if that was really necessary. I also pulled off the mirrors, and their mount brackets. A neat thing that I later found out was that the top plastic portion of the mirrors swings outboard after you remove the lower clear section. That helps when you pull the top part of the mirror upward after popping the mirror from the two lower pin retainer holes. And like JWulf says, you almost have to take the dash out to have clear access to the switch on the ST.

A medium long pair of bent nose hemostats might help when you reach under to get the cable end. However I took the brute force route and cut the entire cover off and replaced it with a new one later. (I was replacing the handlebar).

To tell you the truth, the amount of frustration this will generate almost calls for a dealer tech to work the problem. I have the ST manual, and it flat out lies to you regarding some ST differences. In the pictures you've noticed the RT, and older RS handlebars and how they say you are to access the ignition switch? Ha!...

Ed A. 2013 ST-S SM5

Thanks for the info. This is actually helpful. Since the bike is still under warranty and I have a work around, I think that I'll try to get an appointment at Pitbull Powersports tomorrow, getting into Springfiled, MO to Spyderfest 2014 early.

[poogiethe1st]

try pushing down on the lid while turning the key. it will take the pressure off the latch.

Sounds like an issue for a dealer...

[NancysToy]

I agree that it would be less frustrating for the dealer to wrestle with this. You might try lubricating the latch, however. What you are describing can happen due to a latch that needs lubrication, adjustment, or both. It can also happen merely because of the trunk weather-strip being part way off and pushing up on the lid. The ignition switch doesn't have much leverage, so just won't budge if the latch is bound up.

[poogiethe1st]

Need to clarify one thing , you stated could not tun key, while pushing down , or you can turn 2820 N. Glenstone Ave., Springfield, Missouri 65803
key but seat latch will not release ?

Good to know that they're located near the motel where I'll be staying...

[poogiethe1st]

I agree that it would be less frustrating for the dealer to wrestle with this. You might try lubricating the latch, however. What you are describing can happen due to a latch that needs lubrication, adjustment, or both. It can also happen merely because of the trunk weather-strip being part way off and pushing up on the lid. The ignition switch doesn't have much leverage, so just won't budge if the latch is bound up.

As stated earlier, all I have to do is pull on the cable and the latch works fine. With the seat up, the latch works fine, but the key will not move far enough; therefore, I'm sure that there's something wrong on the ignition end. The latch has been lubed; there's no adjustment at the seat end. It is clearly on the ignition end, where there's something bound up or caught on something, but thanks for the input.

[poogiethe1st]

try pushing down on the lid while turning the key. it will take the pressure off the latch.

As stated, the problem is with the ignition end of the cable...

[poogiethe1st]

More people will help you in a bit. Just have to say I hate it when the Maintenance Manuel doesn't tell you about what you want to know.

PitBull PowerSports, the sponsor for Spyderfest is the best of the best. It's better to get to Spyderfest a few days early before the rush comes if you need work on your Spyder. Once the Fest starts, it gets crazy down there. Give them a call and set up an appointment. They are good people.

Hope your seat latch is working properly before Spyderfest comes...

I can just lift the seat and access the gas cap, so no problem with getting it fixed before or during Syderfest; however, I'm gonna' try to get Pitbull to fix it while there.

[Larry rt]

I went through a similar experience . When seat was raised worked fine , when lowered would not work . Took it to dealer they adjusted , the line up , worked a few times , then back to square one !
I discovered that the spring on the latch was weak , changed spring and since the dealer stated some times the cable would stretch , I took a notch ( the little brass think you use to mark our bow string for your arrow) and put that on the cable just before the lead one on the latch. Lengthened the pin infer the seat slightly ! After that never had a problem .

[jcthorne]

Getting to the back side of the ignition switch is a bear. Pretty much have to remove the dash to access the two bolts that mount it to the underside of the steering column. Then they bezel comes off the front. You may not have to remove the switch to service the cable, but most of the same body work will need to come off as needed to remove the cylinder.

See the service manual section on handle bar removal. Also the ignition switch is in the electrical section but it mostly just refers to other sections for body and instrument cluster removal.

There is no cable adjustment on the ignition switch end. The cables snap in much like the other end.

[poogiethe1st]

I went through a similar experience . When seat was raised worked fine , when lowered would not work . Took it to dealer they adjusted , the line up , worked a few times , then back to square one !
I discovered that the spring on the latch was weak , changed spring and since the dealer stated some times the cable would stretch , I took a notch ( the little brass think you use to mark our bow string for your arrow) and put that on the cable just before the lead one on the latch. Lengthened the pin infer the seat slightly ! After that never had a problem .

Unbolted the latch end, wiggled it around while playing with the key...I felt something pop in place and the key freed up, working the latch properly. I bolted it back up, and I've tested it about ten times successfully, both sitting on the bike and off the bike. Everything seems to be fine; however, I won't leave home without a #30 Torx and a 10mm socket to remove the side cover for access to the cable in the event that the problem recurs. Whew....

[poogiethe1st]

Getting to the back side of the ignition switch is a bear. Pretty much have to remove the dash to access the two bolts that mount it to the underside of the steering column. Then they bezel comes off the front. You may not have to remove the switch to service the cable, but most of the same body work will need to come off as needed to remove the cylinder.

See the service manual section on handle bar removal. Also the ignition switch is in the electrical section but it mostly just refers to other sections for body and instrument cluster removal.

There is no cable adjustment on the ignition switch end. The cables snap in much like the other end.

Unbolted the latch end, wiggled it around while playing with the key...I felt something pop in place and the key freed up, working the latch properly. I bolted it back up, and I've tested it about ten times successfully, both sitting on the bike and off the bike. Everything seems to be fine; however, I won't leave home without a #30 Torx and a 10mm socket to remove the side cover for access to the cable in the event that the problem recurs. Whew....

[poogiethe1st]

Hopefully, it's fixed for good. Thanks to everyone who responded and tried to help me out. The posts are greatly appreciated...see ya'll at Spyderfest 2014.

[NancysToy]

Hopefully, it's fixed for good. Thanks to everyone who responded and tried to help me out. The posts are greatly appreciated...see ya'll at Spyderfest 2014.

Glad you found it. be sure to lube the latch. As you have just discovered, the key switch doesn't have much leverage, so sometimes it won't move the latch or turn all the way to release, if there is the slightest extra resistance. Pulling the cable exerts more force than the key, so that can work when the key won't. Be aware that even as little overfilling the trunk so the cargo pushes lightly against the lid can keep the key (or electric release where applicable) from opening the trunk without pushing on the lid to reduce the resistance at the latch.

[Magdave]

Dielectric silicone is what I use to lube my latches. Look very closely with a strong flashlight under the seat edge as you set the pin on the latch. My pin was off from the start and once I got it centered in the latch hole it has worked like butter ever since.