I installed my new LED Denali's yesterday and they work Great! Less than 5 amp draw for both and they are great at lighting further out than the stock hi-beams. The are also set up to work with the high beam circuit on the bike so they dim down to a basic daytime running light then go bright when the hi beams are turned on.
After checking every possible location I choose to locate on the top of the plastic A-Arm as there the 14's design will not allow them to be mounted on the side of the fender. While checking under the arm I discovered a 3/8" hole in a metal cross strap which is exactly where I wanted to mount the lights. I made a hardwood spacer up to fill the gap between the plastic and the cross strap so I could bolt it down tight.
Wiring was very easy however right now I have the high/low beam trigger wires connected together and run from an accessory line coming from my new fuse panel. The on off switch is located on a custom cup holder clamp that I built with this end in mind. I will get some pictures if anyone wants to see more. See Post #7 for more pictures
Last edited by bluestratos; 03-17-2014 at 03:14 PM.
I installed my new LED Denali's yesterday and they work Great! Less than 5 amp draw for both and they are great at lighting further out than the stock hi-beams. The are also set up to work with the high beam circuit on the bike so they dim down to a basic daytime running light then go bright when the hi beams are turned on.
After checking every possible location I choose to locate on the top of the plastic A-Arm as there the 14's design will not allow them to be mounted on the side of the fender. While checking under the arm I discovered a 3/8" hole in a metal cross strap which is exactly where I wanted to mount the lights. I made a hardwood spacer up to fill the gap between the plastic and the cross strap so I could bolt it down tight.
Wiring was very easy however right now I have the high/low beam trigger wires connected together and run from an accessory line coming from my new fuse panel. The on off switch is located on a custom cup holder clamp that I built with this end in mind. I will get some pictures if anyone wants to see more.
Cruzr Joe
2018 F3 Limited, BRP Driver Backrest, Spyderpops Lighted Bump Skid, Dual Spyclops Light, Mirror Turn Signals, Laser Alignment, Engine LEDs, Fog Lights With Halo's, Cushion Handgrips, BRT LEDs, and Under Lighting, Lamonster IPS, (with Clock), F4 25" Vented Windshield with Wings, Airhawk "R" Cushions. Position 4 Brake setting, Short reach Handlebars, Dash Mounted Voltmeter and 12 Volt Plug. Set of 3rd pegs. Extended Passenger Seat. Exterior BRP Connect setup, Ultimate Trailer
Here are the pictures. The bolt you see comes done through an existing hole. To find the location on top I drilled the spacer block to the same size, slid it in to place and then sharpened a bolt that matched the hole size. I used a large C-clamp and with a wood block on top compressed the bolt until it left a dimple in the plastic. Perfect every time, lol.
I have HID headlights and foglights now and LED Driving/High beam lights. All of the colors are nice and white with no blue tint.
When I made the clamp for the cup holder I added the tear drop extension for the driving light used with my PIAAs. Turned out the new switch matches very well!
Last edited by bluestratos; 03-17-2014 at 03:09 PM.
please keep us posted as to the night time improvement of your lighting. Very well done.... Where did you procure the lights, and what Lumen output are they?
I picked up a set at Bikeweek and will be installing them on the inside of the fenders
I pulled my bike up to the Twisted Throttle booth and we checked the lights (they pulled a set out to test with) and there is clearance to mount them using the top bolt on the fender support arm, and then mount them below that bolt
it is what it is - 2014 Black RT-S - Baja Ron Anti-Sway bar, lots of LEDs, Spyderpops Skid Plate, Twisted Sister HID Driving Lights, Tricled 2nd, 3rd & 4th brake lights, F4 Customs vented windshield, Lamonster highway pegs, Ultimate Tall Boy seat, Utopia backrest
I bought these on the internet for 359.99 through Amazon and sold by Denali. I cannot find a Lumen rating but they light the road 4 times further than the stock high beams according to the data. Don't look directly at the bulb while lit or you will not be seeing much for the next few minutes... how do I know? Lol. I tried the spot on the fender mount but did not like the look and was a little concerned about getting them to mount with out movement at that location as they are not light. Let me know how yours work for you if you do use that spot.
As you can see from the Amazon add pasted below, they only draw 5 amps in total but they are amazing at night. They light the road in brightly far ahead of the headlights but they are a focused 10 degree spot so no wasted light to the sides, above or below. Denali (TT-DX) Xtreme Dual Intensity Spot LED Light Kit with 5 Amp Fuse
I love the Denali dual intensity lights. I didn't think they would be a good fit for my Spyder, unlike my BMW, but I might give it a second look, given your success. Do you notice much flicker from the bouncing, with them mounted to the a-frames?
-Scotty 2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine) 2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes 2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
No, actually a bit less than when I had my Piaa's mounted on the side of the fenders, They are a narrow beam so you do see them bounce a bit on a rough road but nothing that I have found distracting. On a hard turn of the wheels the light hits the leading edge of the fender but only on a tight turn as in parking. I am still playing with the best set up but it has been wet and cold lately so not too excited about going out after dark, lol....
I got a nice set of lights from up in your neighborhood. I have them mounted but not connected. I opted for one 10 degree and one 20 degree for a little more spread closer. Supposed to go out to 650 feet. We'll see. http://www.cyclopsadventuresports.co...uare_p_11.html
Love my
Statistics show that most motorcycle accidents are caused by a defective nut holding the handlbars.
Here are the pictures. The bolt you see comes done through an existing hole. To find the location on top I drilled the spacer block to the same size, slid it in to place and then sharpened a bolt that matched the hole size. I used a large C-clamp and with a wood block on top compressed the bolt until it left a dimple in the plastic. Perfect every time, lol.
I have HID headlights and foglights now and LED Driving/High beam lights. All of the colors are nice and white with no blue tint.
When I made the clamp for the cup holder I added the tear drop extension for the driving light used with my PIAAs. Turned out the new switch matches very well!
how/where did you run the wiring so they are set up to work with the high beam circuit on the bike so they dim down to a basic daytime running light then go bright when the hi beams are turned on?
Last edited by lookerjdc; 03-21-2014 at 05:27 AM.
it is what it is - 2014 Black RT-S - Baja Ron Anti-Sway bar, lots of LEDs, Spyderpops Skid Plate, Twisted Sister HID Driving Lights, Tricled 2nd, 3rd & 4th brake lights, F4 Customs vented windshield, Lamonster highway pegs, Ultimate Tall Boy seat, Utopia backrest
how/where did you run the wiring so they are set up to work with the high beam circuit on the bike so they dim down to a basic daytime running light then go bright when the hi beams are turned on?
the controller looks like a nice option, but I am interested in how bluestratos installed/connected his lights since it seems like he tapped directly into the hi/lo beam switch on the Spyder
it is what it is - 2014 Black RT-S - Baja Ron Anti-Sway bar, lots of LEDs, Spyderpops Skid Plate, Twisted Sister HID Driving Lights, Tricled 2nd, 3rd & 4th brake lights, F4 Customs vented windshield, Lamonster highway pegs, Ultimate Tall Boy seat, Utopia backrest
Denial's come with a hi/low bean circuit so just take the low beam wire to an accessory wire, the other wire taps into the high beam wire on the bike. I have still not installed the high beam wire as I need to locate the wire that runs the shutter in the headlights so I have them both hooked to power which is an option in the install page. I posted to see if someone could identify that wire color for me as I cannot find my old manual.
I took the bike out for a night ride yesterday, taking back country roads and wow...with my new HID fog, headlight and the LED driving lights it lights up the road in a clean, white light that is so bright the reflective speed limit signs look bazaar, the look like a brilliant white glowing ball on a stick a quarter about a 10th of am away. The driving lights are about as same brightness and range as the HI beams the HID's are pretty amazing as well. The HID Fog lights really light up the road about 100 ft down the road so they fill the dark area just in front of the bike. With everything on at once the front of the bike is a big white light ball when viewed from the reflection in a storefront glass. Very happy with the results!
Last edited by bluestratos; 03-21-2014 at 09:30 AM.
Denial's come with a hi/low bean circuit so just take the low beam wire to an accessory wire, the other wire taps into the high beam wire on the bike. I have still not installed the high beam wire as I need to locate the wire that runs the shutter in the headlights so I have them both hooked to power which is an option in the install page. I posted to see if someone could identify that wire color for me as I cannot find my old manual.
I took the bike out for a night ride yesterday, taking back country roads and wow...with my new HID fog, headlight and the LED driving lights it lights up the road in a clean, white light that is so bright the reflective speed limit signs look bazaar, the look like a brilliant white glowing ball on a stick a quarter about a 10th of am away. The driving lights are about as same brightness and range as the HI beams the HID's are pretty amazing as well. The HID Fog lights really light up the road about 100 ft down the road so they fill the dark area just in front of the bike. With everything on at once the front of the bike is a big white light ball when viewed from the reflection in a storefront glass. Very happy with the results!
It looks like the shutter is an 18 ga. gray wire, but I am not positive. That's also from an old manual, so the 2014 may be different, but I doubt it. That circuit also has a 20 ga. gray that runs to the cluster from a junction terminal. Sorry I didn't know you still needed the colors, I thought you found them.
-Scotty 2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine) 2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes 2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
not before he figures out the lighting connections to tie in to the hi/low switch on the bike
gives you more opportunities for more posts Bob
it is what it is - 2014 Black RT-S - Baja Ron Anti-Sway bar, lots of LEDs, Spyderpops Skid Plate, Twisted Sister HID Driving Lights, Tricled 2nd, 3rd & 4th brake lights, F4 Customs vented windshield, Lamonster highway pegs, Ultimate Tall Boy seat, Utopia backrest
I can try to do a video, never posted one on here before. If not I will see about a picture next time I take it out at night. No time to work on the wiring this weekend, was riding instead
I can try to do a video, never posted one on here before. If not I will see about a picture next time I take it out at night. No time to work on the wiring this weekend, was riding instead
blue, did you see my comment about the wiring in the other thread?