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Very Active Member
 Anyone have a "hot rubber" smell when its parked?
When I pull in to my shed and shut down I get a good whiff of hot rubber.
Its not noticable when parked out in the open. The belt doesn't feel hot to the touch. Not particularly concerned but curious if any others have noticed this.
Two Wheelers from 1963-2011
Three Wheelers:
2011 RT(Red)
2014 RT(white)
2016 F3T(red)
2022 RT current ride(silver)
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2016 Slingshot
2018 Vanderhall
2019 Slingshot
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I have noticed it on my 2012...
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 Originally Posted by ulflyer
When I pull in to my shed and shut down I get a good whiff of hot rubber.
Its not noticable when parked out in the open. The belt doesn't feel hot to the touch. Not particularly concerned but curious if any others have noticed this.
I have noticed it when I pull in the garage
I have 3000 miles on my 2014 RTL and it is not as bad as it was brand new
How many miles on your bike?
Don
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I have the same strange smell. It sort of smells like a cross between burnt plastic and rubber.
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Originally Posted by ACES WILD
I have the same strange smell. It sort of smells like a cross between burnt plastic and rubber.
All of my motorcycles smelled like that....don't know why....
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Very Active Member
[QUOTE=garb55;775961]I have noticed it when I pull in the garage
I have 3000 miles on my 2014 RTL and it is not as bad as it was brand new
How many miles on your bike?
Don[/QUOTe
About 1600. Maybe it will dissipate with more miles. 
Two Wheelers from 1963-2011
Three Wheelers:
2011 RT(Red)
2014 RT(white)
2016 F3T(red)
2022 RT current ride(silver)
__________________
2016 Slingshot
2018 Vanderhall
2019 Slingshot
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I agree with PMK, check your belt tracking and look for signs of belt dust. If you have added any mods like the Spyderpops belt guard, check there, too. Any contact with the belt is a problem. If nothing is obvious, I'd report it to your dealer, provided you are beyond the break-in mileage and it is not just the muffler and other components "burning in".
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My 2010 RT did it from the first day. After a few thousand miles I noticed the belt was also tracking against the flange. Then came the first rear tire replacement. The smell was more evident and a chirping sound was coming from the pulley at slow speeds. After several dealer applied magic grease attemps it would return and I would also get a DPS error code on long sweeping right hand curves. And a nice layer of black on the rear rim. So, the wheel was out of alignment so bad it caused both conditions. I spent the good part of a saturday adjusting the tracking to get it back to the 1mm spacing it is supposed to have. No more chirp, no more black dust, no more error codes, no more smell. I just picked up my new 2014 rt yesterday and the smell is there and so is the belt misalignment. I know what my project is this weekend. Get to it soon. It will eat on the belt.
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Originally Posted by gonker
My 2010 RT did it from the first day. After a few thousand miles I noticed the belt was also tracking against the flange. Then came the first rear tire replacement. The smell was more evident and a chirping sound was coming from the pulley at slow speeds. After several dealer applied magic grease attemps it would return and I would also get a DPS error code on long sweeping right hand curves. And a nice layer of black on the rear rim. So, the wheel was out of alignment so bad it caused both conditions. I spent the good part of a saturday adjusting the tracking to get it back to the 1mm spacing it is supposed to have. No more chirp, no more black dust, no more error codes, no more smell. I just picked up my new 2014 rt yesterday and the smell is there and so is the belt misalignment. I know what my project is this weekend. Get to it soon. It will eat on the belt.
What did you use in tracking to ensure the proper adjustment is made? Can you provide more info and details how.
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I sometimes have a smell like that but it is just after I start it then it goes away.
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Originally Posted by jerpinoy
What did you use in trackto ensure the proper adjustment is made? Can you provide more info and details how.
I use a metric machinist rule to check the gap. Loosen the axel so it will move when you use the adjuster. Don't touch the adjuster on the left side near the belt. Since the belt is too close to the flange, tighten the adjuster on the right side. I am patient so I only move it 1/8th turn clockwise. Clockwise moves the axel on that side back toward the rear of the bike. Tighten the axel back up and take a ride down the street a block. Roll to a straight stop, hop off and check the gap. If it has not moved, go back and do it all again. You could just spin the wheel while it is off the ground and watch the belt track but putting it under a load will change where it wants to track. After you think you are done have the dealer or friend with the sonic tension guage check the belt. I put 30,000 miles on my 2010 and the belt and pulley are still ready for another 30,000. Good luck. Be patient. It will pay off with peace of mind.
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