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  1. #51
    Active Member hillrider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Texas View Post
    I don't know what tools are included with the Spyder, as I don't use those tools as my main tools. I haven't had the chance to get around to opening that bag to see what is in there. However, most people will not generally have a 36mm socket, or the T40 & T45 Torx bits. I had the T40 and T45, but didn't have the 36mm socket. I didn't mind having to go out and purchase this, as it gives me an excuse to buy a tool I didn't have I can justify the cost of any tool because not only am I saving a lot of money by doing my own service, but doing my own service helps me to learn more about the RT that I would not have known if I had the dealership perform the work, and it eliminates any fear of taking the plastic off (this is my third time for taking the plastic off).
    After nearly stripping the transmission drain plug, I bought a new one. Close, and I mean close, examination showed it to be a 6mm allen. That means one drain is a T45 and the other is a 6mm. Now the replacement is the 6mm. There's no way of telling what the original drain was, I buggered it really bad getting it off. The reason for the differing types of tool is perhaps european logic.

    Haven't figured out how to show it, but I've got a '15 RT_S SE6.
    Last edited by hillrider; 12-08-2014 at 05:09 PM.

  2. #52
    Very Active Member bluestratos's Avatar
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    I just completed my second oil change on my 14 a few weeks back. It took less than 1 hour including re and re mirror and panels.
    This is very much a do it your self project. When putting the new O rings on the metal drain plug be sure to wrap the metal threads in masking tape before rolling the new O ring back on to prevent damage from the sharp threads.

  3. #53
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default YOU ARE CORRECT

    Quote Originally Posted by hillrider View Post
    After nearly stripping the transmission drain plug, I bought a new one. Close, and I mean close, examination showed it to be a 6mm allen. That means one drain is a T45 and the other is a 6mm. Now the replacement is the 6mm. There's no way of telling what the original drain was, I buggered it really bad getting it off. The reason for the differing types of tool is perhaps european logic.

    Haven't figured out how to show it, but I've got a '15 RT_S SE6.
    .....It's absolutely a 6 mm Allen....I checked with a Mirror and flashlite first, because my 08 GS and 11 RSS both had 6 MM Allen's too................Mike

  4. #54
    Very Active Member PMK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    ..............................JMHO......I think just about any Auto parts store can match up your BRP " O- RINGS " , but as uflyer suggested and I do also if it's not broken or damaged re-use the old one ......But you can get one as a spare now in case you need it later ...................Mike
    I have not researched sizes or material yet. Consider though, the green O rings are not typical materials from the parts store. They may have the size, but if they are black it is not the same. I deal with the green O rings often in high performance suspension dampers. These I believe, like the BRP stuff is Flouro or viton material. Better at high heat and won't breakdown. Also consider, different materials could have different durometer ratings or how firm the rubber compound rates. Saying this, is could be possible the oil filter cap would not seat before failing.

    I was hoping to use Stat-O-Seals for crush washer replacements, but the dimensions needed seem inadequate to seal properly.

    http://www.parker.com/portal/site/PA...L&vgnextfmt=EN

    Regardless of what you buy or where you get them, be careful.

    Also, the tip of wrapping with tape is valid. Personally I do not use masking tape, but would use plastic electrical tape or if possible a small section of heavy plastic bag.

    If you do plan to shop on your own, I have used these guys with excellent results. You will need to sort out the sizes, material and part numbers on your own.

    http://www.theoringstore.com/

    PK

  5. #55
    Very Active Member Roadster Renovations's Avatar
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    Excellent tutorial on the oil change. Plan on doing mine tomorrow. One thought I had, I use a lot of green O rings in R134 A/C work. Wonder if they are the same material? Be nice to find a secondary source for parts.

  6. #56
    Very Active Member coz's Avatar
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    Default Over thinking it

    Do yourself a favor. Get what you need from Bajaron. So what if it's two dollars more. Ron is one of the best vendors on this site, and should be supported. His service is excellent. JMHO
    Last edited by coz; 01-01-2015 at 10:15 AM.
    it was fun while it lasted.

  7. #57
    Very Active Member PMK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by coz View Post
    Do yourself a favor. Get what you need from Bajaron. So what if it's two dollars more. Ron is one of the best vendors on this site, and should be supported. His service is excellent.
    Last I heard, Ron had posted a while back he was trying to source the items. I am not sure if he has them available or not at this time. Hopefully he will mention if the items are available.

    PK

  8. #58
    Very Active Member jcthorne's Avatar
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    My OEM and replacement o-rings are black, not green. Both filters.

    Blue Flame Spyder F3-S
    2015 F3S , Blue Flame

  9. #59
    Very Active Member PMK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jcthorne View Post
    My OEM and replacement o-rings are black, not green. Both filters.
    Guess your 13 uses different "o"rings than a 14.

    My 2014 oem "o" rings are mixed with some green and some black.

    PK

  10. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by Texas View Post
    Well I decided to do my first oil change on my Spyder RT-S tonight. Even though the process is somewhat documented in the Operator's Guide, I find it a bit difficult to follow. That, combined with the fact you will need several parts to complete the job, I thought I would document the procedure the best I could to fill in some of the gaps that BRP left out.

    Besides the tools you will need to do the job, you will also need the following parts to perform the oil change:
    • 5.3L/5.6qts (SE6), or 4.9L/5.2qts (SM6)
    BRP's Recommendation: (XPS 4-STROKE SYNTH. BLEND OIL (SUMMER) (P/N 293 600 121) or a 5W40 semi-synthetic (minimum) or synthetic motorcycle oil meeting the requirements for API service SL, SJ, SH or SG classification
    • Oil Filter - BRP #420956743 - $15.99
    • Large Oil filter O-Ring - BRP #420850482 - $9.99
    • Small Oil filter O-Ring - BRP #420950812 - $9.99
    • Small Oil filter O-Ring - BRP #420650927 - $9.99
    • Engine Gasket Ring - BRP #420430623 - $1.49
    • Engine O-Ring - BRP #420250460 - $5.99
    • Engine O-Ring - BRP #420430115 - $5.99
    • Copper Washer for Gearbox Drain Plug - BRP #420250640 - $0.99
    Total Cost of Parts - $60.42 + Cost of Oil

    Step 1:
    As in the guide, remove the following RH body panels.
    – Side panel
    – Top side panel
    Once these are removed, the oil filter will be exposed as seen just to the right of the middle of the following picture:


    Step 2:
    Place an appropriate drain pan under the RT. This drain pan will need to be large enough to capture the oil. You will need to remove two drain plugs on the bottom of the RT to allow the oil to flow into the pan. Most of the oil will come out of the engine (I'm guessing about 80%), so if your drain pan isn't large enough to capture all of the oil, then you can do one plug; discard the oil; then do the other plug. Discard both crush washers.

    The gearbox drain plug is located just under the oil dipstick. This requires a T40 tool to remove. The engine drain plug one is located on the left side of the RT and requires a T45 to remove. You can view the Operator's Guide for a drawing that depicts their exact locations, however, it lists the descriptions of each of these drain plugs incorrectly (it has them reversed). So please make special note of this. While there is no magnet on the engine drain plug, notice the amount of metal deposits that collected on the magnet of the gearbox drain plug in just over the first 1,000 miles:


    Step 3:
    Remove the dipstick.

    Step 4:
    You will need a 36mm socket to remove the oil filter cover:


    Using the 36mm socket and a socket driver, unscrew oil filter cover:


    You can now lift the cover off, but hold a paper towel under the cover as you lift it off to catch the dirty oil as it will drip off:


    Notice there is more to the cap than just a cap, so keep this in mind as you raise the cap. Also notice the o-rings that need to be replaced:


    Step 5:
    Check and clean the oil inlet and outlet orifices in crankcase for dirt and contaminants.

    Step 6:
    Replace the o-rings with new ones on the filter cover.

    Step 7:
    Install the new filter:


    Step 8:
    After cleaning the filter cover and installing new o-rings, install the filter cover.

    Step 9:
    Using new sealing washers and o-rings, install both engine and gearbox drain plugs.
    (From the Operator's Guide - Torque engine drain plugs 25 N•m to 30N•m. Torque gearbox drain plug 18 N•m to 20N•m)

    Step 10:
    For SE6 Model - Pour 5.3 L of the recommended oil into the engine.
    For SM6 Model - Pour 4.9 L of the recommended oil into the engine.

    Step 11:
    Start engine and let idle for two minutes. Check for leaks at the Engine oil filter, as well as the engine and gearbox drain plugs.

    Step 12:
    Once the oil temperature reaches 176°F/80°C, stop the engine, check the oil level, then add missing quantity of oil.

    Step 13:
    Install all removed body panels.
    You can get a 36mm socket at Northern Tools for $14. With the amount of oil the 1330 holds, I am going to start out with an oil pig and vacuum out the majority of oil before removing the plugs. I did this with my Harley to get most of the oil out of the tank. It really cut down on possible oil messes.

  11. #61
    Very Active Member Cruzr Joe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pjweimer View Post
    Was there supposed to be a link added to this comment?

    No, i just used post # 1 and printed it out.


    Cruzr Joe
    2018 F3 Limited, BRP Driver Backrest, Spyderpops Lighted Bump Skid, Dual Spyclops Light, Mirror Turn Signals, Laser Alignment, Engine LEDs, Fog Lights With Halo's, Cushion Handgrips, BRT LEDs, and Under Lighting, Lamonster IPS, (with Clock), F4 25" Vented Windshield with Wings, Airhawk "R" Cushions. Position 4 Brake setting, Short reach Handlebars, Dash Mounted Voltmeter and 12 Volt Plug. Set of 3rd pegs. Extended Passenger Seat. Exterior BRP Connect setup, Ultimate Trailer

  12. #62
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    Those are some deep details and useful gonna bookmark this page

  13. #63
    Active Member wd8ajj's Avatar
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    Local dealer has the total oil change kit with all from BRP for 69.00. Easier than hunting for aftermarket parts and all in 1 box, oil,filters rings ect.

  14. #64
    Very Active Member Highwayman2013's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wd8ajj View Post
    Local dealer has the total oil change kit with all from BRP for 69.00. Easier than hunting for aftermarket parts and all in 1 box, oil,filters rings ect.
    You're taking all the fun out of it.
    2016 F3 Limited
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    2016 F 3 Limited , Vegas White

  15. #65
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    Cool 2014 Spyder RT Oil change parts listing

    I agree with the well done presentation.. Very helpful.
    After doing some more recent research, I did find an online retailer that has all the needed parts for the oil change at a better price..
    In fact they have most any OEM parts you would need..
    http://www.powersportswarehouse.com

    Here is a list of the parts again. And pricing.
    just plug in the part# in the websites part search window to locate them,, very easy.
    The French description on the 2 parts below are for the sealing washers..

    420956743 - Can-Am - Oil Filter @$11.99ea.

    420430623 - Can-Am - Anneau Étanche @$1.47ea.

    420950812 - Can-Am - O-Ring @$4.49ea.

    420250640 - Can-Am - Rondelle En Cuivre @$1.47ea.

    420650927 - Can-Am - O-Ring @$4.49ea.

    420850482 - Can-Am - O-Ring @$4.49ea.

    420250460 - Can-Am - O-Ring @$2.99ea.

    420430115 - Can-Am - O-Ring @$2.99ea.

    I typically use AMSOIL in all my rides... and use Motorcycle 10W40. full synthetic for the Spyder....

  16. #66
    Member DSSpyder's Avatar
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    Question Oil Drain Plug

    How about a Magnetic Drain Plug (M14 x 1.5) from BigBikeParts # 5-301? ($5.95/ea)

  17. #67
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    Oil and transmission filter alternative part numbers for all spyders now listed on our oil filter cross reference:

    http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/FilterXRef.html

    Oil filters, about $8 on ebay, o-ring kits about $5 on ebay, transmission filters about $5 on ebay, oil about $20 for 5 quarts Delo 400 5w-40 full synthetic at Walmart, total cost of oil change about $33-$38.

  18. #68
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    Default Quick Update

    For the 2017 F3-S, use a 6mm hex key on the transmission plug. Also before loosening the two drain plugs, check to make sure the bits fit snugly into the heads of the plugs. NO ROCKING, NO SLOP. Your bits should be high-quality pieces, not Chinese-made cheapos because they are often sloppy and brittle. Use a long-enough ratchet to give good torque. And remember counter-clockwise when looking at the plug loosens it. Ok, the socket's in the plug head and your hand is on the ratchet, so give the ratchet a good swift and sharp tug. Don't overdo it, just make it QUICK!. This will break the plugs loose without giving them time to think about stripping! And, I recommend replacing those plugs with Gold Plugs..MP01, one for the engine, one for the tranny (they're both the same number, you have to specify when ordering)..

    Thanks, and happy Ryding.
    2017 F3-S Daytona , Yellow and black

  19. #69
    Very Active Member JKMSPYDER's Avatar
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    Default NO THEY ARE NOT!!

    There are two different sizes of Gold Plug foe the 1330 engine. The engine plug is MP-18 and the transmission plug is MP-01.
    2020 F3 Ltd

    Spyderpops Bumpskid
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    2013 ST-S retired 1/9/16 at 25,061 miles
    2015 F3S sold at 77,565 miles.
    2015 F3-S , BajaRon Plugs Can-Am Red

  20. #70
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    One thing, on the F3-S Spyder anyway, remove the oil filter together with the inner bolt. Don't try to remove the bolt and then the cover-it won't come out. Take it all out together, cover, bolt and filter as one piece. Give them a chance to finish draining, and therefore leaving less of a mess, by removing them slowly. Put the new filter, cover and bolt back in together too. It's a lot easier. Also, once you've removed the T-45 and T-40 drain plugs, replace them with Gold Plugs that have a hex head (as God intended bolts to be!). They're also magnetic and are pretty inexpensive and can be installed/removed with a good old fashioned 17mm socket. Not to mention you will also have two magnetic drain plugs for added protection!
    2017 F3-S Daytona , Yellow and black

  21. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by hillrider View Post
    After nearly stripping the transmission drain plug, I bought a new one. Close, and I mean close, examination showed it to be a 6mm allen. That means one drain is a T45 and the other is a 6mm. Now the replacement is the 6mm. There's no way of telling what the original drain was, I buggered it really bad getting it off. The reason for the differing types of tool is perhaps european logic.

    Haven't figured out how to show it, but I've got a '15 RT_S SE6.
    replace both of those "T" drain plugs with Gold Plugs, MP-18 and MP-01.. They have direct replacements for both and use hex heads-17mm, easy to get and use. No more stripped or buggered drain plugs and also the Gold Plugs are both magnetic.
    2017 F3-S Daytona , Yellow and black

  22. #72
    Very Active Member jcthorne's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TerryTheSpyderRyder View Post
    One thing, on the F3-S Spyder anyway, remove the oil filter together with the inner bolt. Don't try to remove the bolt and then the cover-it won't come out. Take it all out together, cover, bolt and filter as one piece. Give them a chance to finish draining, and therefore leaving less of a mess, by removing them slowly. Put the new filter, cover and bolt back in together too. It's a lot easier. Also, once you've removed the T-45 and T-40 drain plugs, replace them with Gold Plugs that have a hex head (as God intended bolts to be!). They're also magnetic and are pretty inexpensive and can be installed/removed with a good old fashioned 17mm socket. Not to mention you will also have two magnetic drain plugs for added protection!
    So much wrong with this statement.

    There is no bolts on the F3 oil filter.
    There are no drain plugs that use a T40 Torx
    Lastly, big troubles with the Gold plug on the engine side. Poor design with a thin wall where the hole for the magnet is far too close to the o-ring groove. Plug snaps off inside the engine on removal. Have seen two of them do this and one was a very expensive engine tear down to fix. We will not install them. Use the RIGHT tools for removal and there is no trouble with the OEM plugs.

    Blue Flame Spyder F3-S
    2015 F3S , Blue Flame

  23. #73
    Very Active Member jcthorne's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TerryTheSpyderRyder View Post
    replace both of those "T" drain plugs with Gold Plugs, MP-18 and MP-01.. They have direct replacements for both and use hex heads-17mm, easy to get and use. No more stripped or buggered drain plugs and also the Gold Plugs are both magnetic.
    Nope, no stripped head, just a snapped off thread end stuck up inside your engine. Yea great trade off. Just use the right tools on the oem plugs.

    Blue Flame Spyder F3-S
    2015 F3S , Blue Flame

  24. #74
    Active Member RudyB's Avatar
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    Default Re oil change

    Your totally overthinking it

  25. #75
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    thanks for the post

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