2014 Spyder RT Oil Change

[Texas]

Well I decided to do my first oil change on my Spyder RT-S tonight. Even though the process is somewhat documented in the Operator's Guide, I find it a bit difficult to follow. That, combined with the fact you will need several parts to complete the job, I thought I would document the procedure the best I could to fill in some of the gaps that BRP left out.

Besides the tools you will need to do the job, you will also need the following parts to perform the oil change:
• 5.3L/5.6qts (SE6), or 4.9L/5.2qts (SM6)
BRP's Recommendation: (XPS 4-STROKE SYNTH. BLEND OIL (SUMMER) (P/N 293 600 121) or a 5W40 semi-synthetic (minimum) or synthetic motorcycle oil meeting the requirements for API service SL, SJ, SH or SG classification
• Oil Filter - BRP #420956743 - $15.99
• Large Oil filter O-Ring - BRP #420850482 - $9.99
• Small Oil filter O-Ring - BRP #420950812 - $9.99
• Small Oil filter O-Ring - BRP #420650927 - $9.99
• Engine Gasket Ring - BRP #420430623 - $1.49
• Engine O-Ring - BRP #420250460 - $5.99
• Engine O-Ring - BRP #420430115 - $5.99
• Copper Washer for Gearbox Drain Plug - BRP #420250640 - $0.99
Total Cost of Parts - $60.42 + Cost of Oil

Step 1:
As in the guide, remove the following RH body panels.
– Side panel
– Top side panel
Once these are removed, the oil filter will be exposed as seen just to the right of the middle of the following picture:


Step 2:
Place an appropriate drain pan under the RT. This drain pan will need to be large enough to capture the oil. You will need to remove two drain plugs on the bottom of the RT to allow the oil to flow into the pan. Most of the oil will come out of the engine (I'm guessing about 80%), so if your drain pan isn't large enough to capture all of the oil, then you can do one plug; discard the oil; then do the other plug. Discard both crush washers.

The gearbox drain plug is located just under the oil dipstick. This requires a T40 tool to remove. The engine drain plug one is located on the left side of the RT and requires a T45 to remove. You can view the Operator's Guide for a drawing that depicts their exact locations, however, it lists the descriptions of each of these drain plugs incorrectly (it has them reversed). So please make special note of this. While there is no magnet on the engine drain plug, notice the amount of metal deposits that collected on the magnet of the gearbox drain plug in just over the first 1,000 miles:


Step 3:
Remove the dipstick.

Step 4:
You will need a 36mm socket to remove the oil filter cover:


Using the 36mm socket and a socket driver, unscrew oil filter cover:


You can now lift the cover off, but hold a paper towel under the cover as you lift it off to catch the dirty oil as it will drip off:


Notice there is more to the cap than just a cap, so keep this in mind as you raise the cap. Also notice the o-rings that need to be replaced:


Step 5:
Check and clean the oil inlet and outlet orifices in crankcase for dirt and contaminants.

Step 6:
Replace the o-rings with new ones on the filter cover.

Step 7:
Install the new filter:


Step 8:
After cleaning the filter cover and installing new o-rings, install the filter cover.

Step 9:
Using new sealing washers and o-rings, install both engine and gearbox drain plugs.
(From the Operator's Guide - Torque engine drain plugs 25 N•m to 30N•m. Torque gearbox drain plug 18 N•m to 20N•m)

Step 10:
For SE6 Model - Pour 5.3 L of the recommended oil into the engine.
For SM6 Model - Pour 4.9 L of the recommended oil into the engine.

Step 11:
Start engine and let idle for two minutes. Check for leaks at the Engine oil filter, as well as the engine and gearbox drain plugs.

Step 12:
Once the oil temperature reaches 176°F/80°C, stop the engine, check the oil level, then add missing quantity of oil.

Step 13:
Install all removed body panels.

[murphybrown]

I was very impressed with your step by step directions and pics. I read every word and at the first "pick up tool". I made decision...yep this is a dealer service for me .. Probably be prudent to have plastic handy as my quick calculations says if I get out for $200 plus oil (which I provide-AMSOIL fan that I am) I will 'feel' OK...how long did it take..kinda want to estimate shop hrs...I realllly love surprises BUT not when it comes to my budget...thanks again.

[ulflyer]

Does the old oil filter come out with the cover, or do you just pull it out with your fingers?

[SpyRyd]

Still have to remove the RH mirror to remove the body panels? Please say no .

[Highwayman2013]

Looks like they don't have a kit for the 2014 oil change yet with all the parts listed.

[Texas]

Looks like they don't have a kit for the 2014 oil change yet with all the parts listed.

I wasn't able to find a kit either. That's why I listed all of the part numbers; so you can put them on your smart phone and take it in to the dealership and just rattle off the part numbers to the parts guy. It makes it a lot quicker than having the parts guy/gal look them up.

[NancysToy]

Nice job on the tutorial! I was surprised when you didn't say anything about inspecting and cleaning the oil tank screen. In looking at the parts list I found no oil tank? I take it from that the new engine is a wet sump system? You learn something new every day.

[PMK]

Nice job on the tutorial! I was surprised when you didn't say anything about inspecting and cleaning the oil tank screen. In looking at the parts list I found no oil tank? I take it from that the new engine is a wet sump system? You learn something new every day.

Like the OP, I have been getting prepared for the first service which I too may accomplish very soon.

In reading the manual, and looking at parts books, the engine is described as a Dry Sump. It sounds as if the engine scavenge pump is routing the fluid back to the gearbox and using the gearbox area as a holding tank. The oil is common to the engine and gearbox.

In regards to removing all the body work on the right side, the OP can comment, but I do believe it will require removing the mirror and some trim, then the side fairing.

This topic sure made some some details better explained. By chance, did you happen to photo the engine drain plug. It sounds like and from the parts book, this drain has two o rings plus a crush washer. Do you recall?

Thanks
PK

[Texas]

Still have to remove the RH mirror to remove the body panels? Please say no .

Yes, the mirror has to be removed in order to take off the main side panel. If this scares you and you want to do your own service, I suggest you go out to your garage and pop the mirror off right now. It is very simple to do it, and while hitting your Spyder may seem wrong, hitting the mirror to get it off is the way BRP designed the removal of the mirror. The attachment system was engineered for this, so you are not going to break it (known as a 'break-away' mirror). Once you have the mirror off, and the turn signal plug disconnected, spend some time inspecting the mirror's attachment system. I provided this picture for you:



Notice how the top clip only attaches one way. This means that this is the first clip to be attached. Once you move that clip into position, you simply hit the mirror from the right, toward the attachment system. Your hand sort of acts like a 'soft hammer'.

Doing this gives you an excellent indication as to how the mirror has to be taken off. Other people may have a different way, but I first hit the far side of the mirror (on the blinker side). This will disconnect the left clip you see in the picture. I then hit the mirror from the bottom, which forces the mirror to disconnect the bottom right clip you see in the picture. After that, the mirror simply lifts off the top right clip.

I don't know how to be more descriptive than that. I suggest you practice this a few times. You'll get it, and once you do, taking the plastic off the RT is no big deal. I've taken the plastic off of many motorcycles before, and BRP has done one of the best jobs I've ever seen for being the most "user friendly"; without being a Spyder RT certified technician.

[SpyRyd]

Yes, the mirror has to be removed in order to take off the main side panel. If this scares you and you want to do your own service, I suggest you go out to your garage and pop the mirror off right now. It is very simple to do it, and while hitting your Spyder may seem wrong, hitting the mirror to get it off is the way BRP designed the removal of the mirror. The attachment system was engineered for this, so you are not going to break it (known as a 'break-away' mirror). Once you have the mirror off, and the turn signal plug disconnected, spend some time inspecting the mirror's attachment system. I provided this picture for you:



Notice how the top clip only attaches one way. This means that this is the first clip to be attached. Once you move that clip into position, you simply hit the mirror from the right, toward the attachment system. Your hand sort of acts like a 'soft hammer'.

Doing this gives you an excellent indication as to how the mirror has to be taken off. Other people may have a different way, but I first hit the far side of the mirror (on the blinker side). This will disconnect the left clip you see in the picture. I then hit the mirror from the bottom, which forces the mirror to disconnect the bottom right clip you see in the picture. After that, the mirror simply lifts off the top right clip.

I don't know how to be more descriptive than that. I suggest you practice this a few times. You'll get it, and once you do, taking the plastic off the RT is no big deal. I've taken the plastic off of many motorcycles before, and BRP has done one of the best jobs I've ever seen for being the most "user friendly"; without being a Spyder RT certified technician.

Thanks. I've owned a12 RT Ltd for about 22 months now and have taken the mirrors off several times for various reasons. As you mentioned it's not a big deal after doing it a few times. Thanks for the detailed, picture documented, oil change procedures. I've bookmarked this post for future use. I'm not a 14 owner...yet. Taking a test ryde on Tuesday. It's my understanding that the ACE 1330 w/ 6 speed tranny is a hard combo to resist. Just hope I'm not so enamored by the test ryde that I wind up not negotiating a reasonable deal. Thanks again.

[Texas]

Does the old oil filter come out with the cover, or do you just pull it out with your fingers?

You simply pull it out with your fingers. It is simple to do and if you had let the oil drain for about an hour, the filter is not covered in oil, so it isn't messy at all.

[Texas]

I was very impressed with your step by step directions and pics. I read every word and at the first "pick up tool". I made decision...yep this is a dealer service for me .. Probably be prudent to have plastic handy as my quick calculations says if I get out for $200 plus oil (which I provide-AMSOIL fan that I am) I will 'feel' OK...how long did it take..kinda want to estimate shop hrs...I realllly love surprises BUT not when it comes to my budget...thanks again.

I don't know what tools are included with the Spyder, as I don't use those tools as my main tools. I haven't had the chance to get around to opening that bag to see what is in there. However, most people will not generally have a 36mm socket, or the T40 & T45 Torx bits. I had the T40 and T45, but didn't have the 36mm socket. I didn't mind having to go out and purchase this, as it gives me an excuse to buy a tool I didn't have I can justify the cost of any tool because not only am I saving a lot of money by doing my own service, but doing my own service helps me to learn more about the RT that I would not have known if I had the dealership perform the work, and it eliminates any fear of taking the plastic off (this is my third time for taking the plastic off).

[hillrider]

I don't know what tools are included with the Spyder, as I don't use those tools as my main tools. I haven't had the chance to get around to opening that bag to see what is in there. However, most people will not generally have a 36mm socket, or the T40 & T45 Torx bits. I had the T40 and T45, but didn't have the 36mm socket. I didn't mind having to go out and purchase this, as it gives me an excuse to buy a tool I didn't have I can justify the cost of any tool because not only am I saving a lot of money by doing my own service, but doing my own service helps me to learn more about the RT that I would not have known if I had the dealership perform the work, and it eliminates any fear of taking the plastic off (this is my third time for taking the plastic off).

After nearly stripping the transmission drain plug, I bought a new one. Close, and I mean close, examination showed it to be a 6mm allen. That means one drain is a T45 and the other is a 6mm. Now the replacement is the 6mm. There's no way of telling what the original drain was, I buggered it really bad getting it off. The reason for the differing types of tool is perhaps european logic.

Haven't figured out how to show it, but I've got a '15 RT_S SE6.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

After nearly stripping the transmission drain plug, I bought a new one. Close, and I mean close, examination showed it to be a 6mm allen. That means one drain is a T45 and the other is a 6mm. Now the replacement is the 6mm. There's no way of telling what the original drain was, I buggered it really bad getting it off. The reason for the differing types of tool is perhaps european logic.

Haven't figured out how to show it, but I've got a '15 RT_S SE6.

.....It's absolutely a 6 mm Allen....I checked with a Mirror and flashlite first, because my 08 GS and 11 RSS both had 6 MM Allen's too................Mike

[TerryTheSpyderRyder]

After nearly stripping the transmission drain plug, I bought a new one. Close, and I mean close, examination showed it to be a 6mm allen. That means one drain is a T45 and the other is a 6mm. Now the replacement is the 6mm. There's no way of telling what the original drain was, I buggered it really bad getting it off. The reason for the differing types of tool is perhaps european logic.

Haven't figured out how to show it, but I've got a '15 RT_S SE6.

replace both of those "T" drain plugs with Gold Plugs, MP-18 and MP-01.. They have direct replacements for both and use hex heads-17mm, easy to get and use. No more stripped or buggered drain plugs and also the Gold Plugs are both magnetic.

[jcthorne]

replace both of those "T" drain plugs with Gold Plugs, MP-18 and MP-01.. They have direct replacements for both and use hex heads-17mm, easy to get and use. No more stripped or buggered drain plugs and also the Gold Plugs are both magnetic.

Nope, no stripped head, just a snapped off thread end stuck up inside your engine. Yea great trade off. Just use the right tools on the oem plugs.

[PatrickH]

Hello MurphyBrown,

I noticed in your info piece about your '14 RT, White Knight (that was the name, btw, of the White GL1800 I traded for my new '14 RT) that you listed Baker Bilt in your equipment listing. Is that Baker Bilt Wind WIngs? If YES, how do you like them? I had them on my GL1800 and liked them a lot.

Regards,
Patrick H

I was very impressed with your step by step directions and pics. I read every word and at the first "pick up tool". I made decision...yep this is a dealer service for me .. Probably be prudent to have plastic handy as my quick calculations says if I get out for $200 plus oil (which I provide-AMSOIL fan that I am) I will 'feel' OK...how long did it take..kinda want to estimate shop hrs...I realllly love surprises BUT not when it comes to my budget...thanks again.

[kngfsh27]

Well I decided to do my first oil change on my Spyder RT-S tonight. Even though the process is somewhat documented in the Operator's Guide, I find it a bit difficult to follow. That, combined with the fact you will need several parts to complete the job, I thought I would document the procedure the best I could to fill in some of the gaps that BRP left out.

Besides the tools you will need to do the job, you will also need the following parts to perform the oil change:
• 5.3L/5.6qts (SE6), or 4.9L/5.2qts (SM6)
BRP's Recommendation: (XPS 4-STROKE SYNTH. BLEND OIL (SUMMER) (P/N 293 600 121) or a 5W40 semi-synthetic (minimum) or synthetic motorcycle oil meeting the requirements for API service SL, SJ, SH or SG classification
• Oil Filter - BRP #420956743 - $15.99
• Large Oil filter O-Ring - BRP #420850482 - $9.99
• Small Oil filter O-Ring - BRP #420950812 - $9.99
• Small Oil filter O-Ring - BRP #420650927 - $9.99
• Engine Gasket Ring - BRP #420430623 - $1.49
• Engine O-Ring - BRP #420250460 - $5.99
• Engine O-Ring - BRP #420430115 - $5.99
• Copper Washer for Gearbox Drain Plug - BRP #420250640 - $0.99
Total Cost of Parts - $60.42 + Cost of Oil

Step 1:
As in the guide, remove the following RH body panels.
– Side panel
– Top side panel
Once these are removed, the oil filter will be exposed as seen just to the right of the middle of the following picture:


Step 2:
Place an appropriate drain pan under the RT. This drain pan will need to be large enough to capture the oil. You will need to remove two drain plugs on the bottom of the RT to allow the oil to flow into the pan. Most of the oil will come out of the engine (I'm guessing about 80%), so if your drain pan isn't large enough to capture all of the oil, then you can do one plug; discard the oil; then do the other plug. Discard both crush washers.

The gearbox drain plug is located just under the oil dipstick. This requires a T40 tool to remove. The engine drain plug one is located on the left side of the RT and requires a T45 to remove. You can view the Operator's Guide for a drawing that depicts their exact locations, however, it lists the descriptions of each of these drain plugs incorrectly (it has them reversed). So please make special note of this. While there is no magnet on the engine drain plug, notice the amount of metal deposits that collected on the magnet of the gearbox drain plug in just over the first 1,000 miles:


Step 3:
Remove the dipstick.

Step 4:
You will need a 36mm socket to remove the oil filter cover:


Using the 36mm socket and a socket driver, unscrew oil filter cover:


You can now lift the cover off, but hold a paper towel under the cover as you lift it off to catch the dirty oil as it will drip off:


Notice there is more to the cap than just a cap, so keep this in mind as you raise the cap. Also notice the o-rings that need to be replaced:


Step 5:
Check and clean the oil inlet and outlet orifices in crankcase for dirt and contaminants.

Step 6:
Replace the o-rings with new ones on the filter cover.

Step 7:
Install the new filter:


Step 8:
After cleaning the filter cover and installing new o-rings, install the filter cover.

Step 9:
Using new sealing washers and o-rings, install both engine and gearbox drain plugs.
(From the Operator's Guide - Torque engine drain plugs 25 N•m to 30N•m. Torque gearbox drain plug 18 N•m to 20N•m)

Step 10:
For SE6 Model - Pour 5.3 L of the recommended oil into the engine.
For SM6 Model - Pour 4.9 L of the recommended oil into the engine.

Step 11:
Start engine and let idle for two minutes. Check for leaks at the Engine oil filter, as well as the engine and gearbox drain plugs.

Step 12:
Once the oil temperature reaches 176°F/80°C, stop the engine, check the oil level, then add missing quantity of oil.

Step 13:
Install all removed body panels.

You can get a 36mm socket at Northern Tools for $14. With the amount of oil the 1330 holds, I am going to start out with an oil pig and vacuum out the majority of oil before removing the plugs. I did this with my Harley to get most of the oil out of the tank. It really cut down on possible oil messes.

[TerryTheSpyderRyder]

For the 2017 F3-S, use a 6mm hex key on the transmission plug. Also before loosening the two drain plugs, check to make sure the bits fit snugly into the heads of the plugs. NO ROCKING, NO SLOP. Your bits should be high-quality pieces, not Chinese-made cheapos because they are often sloppy and brittle. Use a long-enough ratchet to give good torque. And remember counter-clockwise when looking at the plug loosens it. Ok, the socket's in the plug head and your hand is on the ratchet, so give the ratchet a good swift and sharp tug. Don't overdo it, just make it QUICK!. This will break the plugs loose without giving them time to think about stripping! And, I recommend replacing those plugs with Gold Plugs..MP01, one for the engine, one for the tranny (they're both the same number, you have to specify when ordering)..

Thanks, and happy Ryding.

[JKMSPYDER]

There are two different sizes of Gold Plug foe the 1330 engine. The engine plug is MP-18 and the transmission plug is MP-01.

[TerryTheSpyderRyder]

One thing, on the F3-S Spyder anyway, remove the oil filter together with the inner bolt. Don't try to remove the bolt and then the cover-it won't come out. Take it all out together, cover, bolt and filter as one piece. Give them a chance to finish draining, and therefore leaving less of a mess, by removing them slowly. Put the new filter, cover and bolt back in together too. It's a lot easier. Also, once you've removed the T-45 and T-40 drain plugs, replace them with Gold Plugs that have a hex head (as God intended bolts to be!). They're also magnetic and are pretty inexpensive and can be installed/removed with a good old fashioned 17mm socket. Not to mention you will also have two magnetic drain plugs for added protection!

[jcthorne]

One thing, on the F3-S Spyder anyway, remove the oil filter together with the inner bolt. Don't try to remove the bolt and then the cover-it won't come out. Take it all out together, cover, bolt and filter as one piece. Give them a chance to finish draining, and therefore leaving less of a mess, by removing them slowly. Put the new filter, cover and bolt back in together too. It's a lot easier. Also, once you've removed the T-45 and T-40 drain plugs, replace them with Gold Plugs that have a hex head (as God intended bolts to be!). They're also magnetic and are pretty inexpensive and can be installed/removed with a good old fashioned 17mm socket. Not to mention you will also have two magnetic drain plugs for added protection!

So much wrong with this statement.

There is no bolts on the F3 oil filter.
There are no drain plugs that use a T40 Torx
Lastly, big troubles with the Gold plug on the engine side. Poor design with a thin wall where the hole for the magnet is far too close to the o-ring groove. Plug snaps off inside the engine on removal. Have seen two of them do this and one was a very expensive engine tear down to fix. We will not install them. Use the RIGHT tools for removal and there is no trouble with the OEM plugs.

[RudyB]

Your totally overthinking it