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  1. #1
    Active Member Texas's Avatar
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    Default 2014 Spyder RT Oil Change

    Well I decided to do my first oil change on my Spyder RT-S tonight. Even though the process is somewhat documented in the Operator's Guide, I find it a bit difficult to follow. That, combined with the fact you will need several parts to complete the job, I thought I would document the procedure the best I could to fill in some of the gaps that BRP left out.

    Besides the tools you will need to do the job, you will also need the following parts to perform the oil change:
    • 5.3L/5.6qts (SE6), or 4.9L/5.2qts (SM6)
    BRP's Recommendation: (XPS 4-STROKE SYNTH. BLEND OIL (SUMMER) (P/N 293 600 121) or a 5W40 semi-synthetic (minimum) or synthetic motorcycle oil meeting the requirements for API service SL, SJ, SH or SG classification
    • Oil Filter - BRP #420956743 - $15.99
    • Large Oil filter O-Ring - BRP #420850482 - $9.99
    • Small Oil filter O-Ring - BRP #420950812 - $9.99
    • Small Oil filter O-Ring - BRP #420650927 - $9.99
    • Engine Gasket Ring - BRP #420430623 - $1.49
    • Engine O-Ring - BRP #420250460 - $5.99
    • Engine O-Ring - BRP #420430115 - $5.99
    • Copper Washer for Gearbox Drain Plug - BRP #420250640 - $0.99
    Total Cost of Parts - $60.42 + Cost of Oil

    Step 1:
    As in the guide, remove the following RH body panels.
    – Side panel
    – Top side panel
    Once these are removed, the oil filter will be exposed as seen just to the right of the middle of the following picture:


    Step 2:
    Place an appropriate drain pan under the RT. This drain pan will need to be large enough to capture the oil. You will need to remove two drain plugs on the bottom of the RT to allow the oil to flow into the pan. Most of the oil will come out of the engine (I'm guessing about 80%), so if your drain pan isn't large enough to capture all of the oil, then you can do one plug; discard the oil; then do the other plug. Discard both crush washers.

    The gearbox drain plug is located just under the oil dipstick. This requires a T40 tool to remove. The engine drain plug one is located on the left side of the RT and requires a T45 to remove. You can view the Operator's Guide for a drawing that depicts their exact locations, however, it lists the descriptions of each of these drain plugs incorrectly (it has them reversed). So please make special note of this. While there is no magnet on the engine drain plug, notice the amount of metal deposits that collected on the magnet of the gearbox drain plug in just over the first 1,000 miles:


    Step 3:
    Remove the dipstick.

    Step 4:
    You will need a 36mm socket to remove the oil filter cover:


    Using the 36mm socket and a socket driver, unscrew oil filter cover:


    You can now lift the cover off, but hold a paper towel under the cover as you lift it off to catch the dirty oil as it will drip off:


    Notice there is more to the cap than just a cap, so keep this in mind as you raise the cap. Also notice the o-rings that need to be replaced:


    Step 5:
    Check and clean the oil inlet and outlet orifices in crankcase for dirt and contaminants.

    Step 6:
    Replace the o-rings with new ones on the filter cover.

    Step 7:
    Install the new filter:


    Step 8:
    After cleaning the filter cover and installing new o-rings, install the filter cover.

    Step 9:
    Using new sealing washers and o-rings, install both engine and gearbox drain plugs.
    (From the Operator's Guide - Torque engine drain plugs 25 N•m to 30N•m. Torque gearbox drain plug 18 N•m to 20N•m)

    Step 10:
    For SE6 Model - Pour 5.3 L of the recommended oil into the engine.
    For SM6 Model - Pour 4.9 L of the recommended oil into the engine.

    Step 11:
    Start engine and let idle for two minutes. Check for leaks at the Engine oil filter, as well as the engine and gearbox drain plugs.

    Step 12:
    Once the oil temperature reaches 176°F/80°C, stop the engine, check the oil level, then add missing quantity of oil.

    Step 13:
    Install all removed body panels.
    -Texas

  2. #2
    Invalid Emails murphybrown's Avatar
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    Default NICE very well done

    I was very impressed with your step by step directions and pics. I read every word and at the first "pick up tool". I made decision...yep this is a dealer service for me .. Probably be prudent to have plastic handy as my quick calculations says if I get out for $200 plus oil (which I provide-AMSOIL fan that I am) I will 'feel' OK...how long did it take..kinda want to estimate shop hrs...I realllly love surprises BUT not when it comes to my budget...thanks again.
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  3. #3
    Very Active Member ulflyer's Avatar
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    Does the old oil filter come out with the cover, or do you just pull it out with your fingers?
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  4. #4
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    Default Mirror?

    Still have to remove the RH mirror to remove the body panels? Please say no .
    2016 F3-L Special Series? Mods: Lamonster IPS end caps w/ Gripper 3rd pegs, GPS mount, Power Plate, Perf. Muffler; Backoff Brake Light Strobe; CD Front (amber/red) Brightsides & Tip Kit; ISCI Flag Holder w/Long Poles; BRP Signature Light, Aux Lights, Saddlebag Liners, Garmin 590 GPS; TricLED foam Grips, LEDs (Aux/headlights); Pitbull Driving Lights; RDL seat; Ultimate backrest


    Previous ryde: 2012 RT-L, 26,636 miles on it when traded; 2014 RT-L, 34,147 miles on it when traded


  5. #5
    Very Active Member Highwayman2013's Avatar
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    Default

    Looks like they don't have a kit for the 2014 oil change yet with all the parts listed.
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  6. #6
    Motorbike Professor NancysToy's Avatar
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    Nice job on the tutorial! I was surprised when you didn't say anything about inspecting and cleaning the oil tank screen. In looking at the parts list I found no oil tank? I take it from that the new engine is a wet sump system? You learn something new every day.
    -Scotty
    2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
    2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
    2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder



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  7. #7
    Very Active Member PMK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NancysToy View Post
    Nice job on the tutorial! I was surprised when you didn't say anything about inspecting and cleaning the oil tank screen. In looking at the parts list I found no oil tank? I take it from that the new engine is a wet sump system? You learn something new every day.
    Like the OP, I have been getting prepared for the first service which I too may accomplish very soon.

    In reading the manual, and looking at parts books, the engine is described as a Dry Sump. It sounds as if the engine scavenge pump is routing the fluid back to the gearbox and using the gearbox area as a holding tank. The oil is common to the engine and gearbox.

    In regards to removing all the body work on the right side, the OP can comment, but I do believe it will require removing the mirror and some trim, then the side fairing.

    This topic sure made some some details better explained. By chance, did you happen to photo the engine drain plug. It sounds like and from the parts book, this drain has two o rings plus a crush washer. Do you recall?

    Thanks
    PK

  8. #8
    Active Member Texas's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by murphybrown View Post
    I was very impressed with your step by step directions and pics. I read every word and at the first "pick up tool". I made decision...yep this is a dealer service for me .. Probably be prudent to have plastic handy as my quick calculations says if I get out for $200 plus oil (which I provide-AMSOIL fan that I am) I will 'feel' OK...how long did it take..kinda want to estimate shop hrs...I realllly love surprises BUT not when it comes to my budget...thanks again.
    I don't know what tools are included with the Spyder, as I don't use those tools as my main tools. I haven't had the chance to get around to opening that bag to see what is in there. However, most people will not generally have a 36mm socket, or the T40 & T45 Torx bits. I had the T40 and T45, but didn't have the 36mm socket. I didn't mind having to go out and purchase this, as it gives me an excuse to buy a tool I didn't have I can justify the cost of any tool because not only am I saving a lot of money by doing my own service, but doing my own service helps me to learn more about the RT that I would not have known if I had the dealership perform the work, and it eliminates any fear of taking the plastic off (this is my third time for taking the plastic off).
    -Texas

  9. #9
    Active Member Texas's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ulflyer View Post
    Does the old oil filter come out with the cover, or do you just pull it out with your fingers?

    You simply pull it out with your fingers. It is simple to do and if you had let the oil drain for about an hour, the filter is not covered in oil, so it isn't messy at all.
    -Texas

  10. #10
    Active Member Texas's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Highwayman2013 View Post
    Looks like they don't have a kit for the 2014 oil change yet with all the parts listed.
    I wasn't able to find a kit either. That's why I listed all of the part numbers; so you can put them on your smart phone and take it in to the dealership and just rattle off the part numbers to the parts guy. It makes it a lot quicker than having the parts guy/gal look them up.
    -Texas

  11. #11
    Active Member Texas's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PMK View Post
    Like the OP, I have been getting prepared for the first service which I too may accomplish very soon.

    In reading the manual, and looking at parts books, the engine is described as a Dry Sump. It sounds as if the engine scavenge pump is routing the fluid back to the gearbox and using the gearbox area as a holding tank. The oil is common to the engine and gearbox.

    In regards to removing all the body work on the right side, the OP can comment, but I do believe it will require removing the mirror and some trim, then the side fairing.

    This topic sure made some some details better explained. By chance, did you happen to photo the engine drain plug. It sounds like and from the parts book, this drain has two o rings plus a crush washer. Do you recall?

    Thanks
    PK
    Yes, there are two o-rings and a washer that will need to be replaced on the engine drain plug (I had listed those parts in the list at the beginning of my first post). I didn't bother taking a picture of the plug.

    The plastic that will need to be removed is the main right side cover (BRP refers to this as the 'Top Side Panel'), the panel behind that panel, the small, black, right corner cover that is found when you open the frunk, and the mirror.
    Last edited by Texas; 03-09-2014 at 12:09 PM.
    -Texas

  12. #12
    Thinks out loud Jeriatric's Avatar
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    Red face

    Well done Texas.


    Identify what you have control over and find peace with what you don't.

  13. #13
    Active Member Texas's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpyRyd View Post
    Still have to remove the RH mirror to remove the body panels? Please say no .
    Yes, the mirror has to be removed in order to take off the main side panel. If this scares you and you want to do your own service, I suggest you go out to your garage and pop the mirror off right now. It is very simple to do it, and while hitting your Spyder may seem wrong, hitting the mirror to get it off is the way BRP designed the removal of the mirror. The attachment system was engineered for this, so you are not going to break it (known as a 'break-away' mirror). Once you have the mirror off, and the turn signal plug disconnected, spend some time inspecting the mirror's attachment system. I provided this picture for you:



    Notice how the top clip only attaches one way. This means that this is the first clip to be attached. Once you move that clip into position, you simply hit the mirror from the right, toward the attachment system. Your hand sort of acts like a 'soft hammer'.

    Doing this gives you an excellent indication as to how the mirror has to be taken off. Other people may have a different way, but I first hit the far side of the mirror (on the blinker side). This will disconnect the left clip you see in the picture. I then hit the mirror from the bottom, which forces the mirror to disconnect the bottom right clip you see in the picture. After that, the mirror simply lifts off the top right clip.

    I don't know how to be more descriptive than that. I suggest you practice this a few times. You'll get it, and once you do, taking the plastic off the RT is no big deal. I've taken the plastic off of many motorcycles before, and BRP has done one of the best jobs I've ever seen for being the most "user friendly"; without being a Spyder RT certified technician.
    -Texas

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Texas View Post
    Yes, the mirror has to be removed in order to take off the main side panel. If this scares you and you want to do your own service, I suggest you go out to your garage and pop the mirror off right now. It is very simple to do it, and while hitting your Spyder may seem wrong, hitting the mirror to get it off is the way BRP designed the removal of the mirror. The attachment system was engineered for this, so you are not going to break it (known as a 'break-away' mirror). Once you have the mirror off, and the turn signal plug disconnected, spend some time inspecting the mirror's attachment system. I provided this picture for you:



    Notice how the top clip only attaches one way. This means that this is the first clip to be attached. Once you move that clip into position, you simply hit the mirror from the right, toward the attachment system. Your hand sort of acts like a 'soft hammer'.

    Doing this gives you an excellent indication as to how the mirror has to be taken off. Other people may have a different way, but I first hit the far side of the mirror (on the blinker side). This will disconnect the left clip you see in the picture. I then hit the mirror from the bottom, which forces the mirror to disconnect the bottom right clip you see in the picture. After that, the mirror simply lifts off the top right clip.

    I don't know how to be more descriptive than that. I suggest you practice this a few times. You'll get it, and once you do, taking the plastic off the RT is no big deal. I've taken the plastic off of many motorcycles before, and BRP has done one of the best jobs I've ever seen for being the most "user friendly"; without being a Spyder RT certified technician.
    Thanks. I've owned a12 RT Ltd for about 22 months now and have taken the mirrors off several times for various reasons. As you mentioned it's not a big deal after doing it a few times. Thanks for the detailed, picture documented, oil change procedures. I've bookmarked this post for future use. I'm not a 14 owner...yet. Taking a test ryde on Tuesday. It's my understanding that the ACE 1330 w/ 6 speed tranny is a hard combo to resist. Just hope I'm not so enamored by the test ryde that I wind up not negotiating a reasonable deal. Thanks again.
    2016 F3-L Special Series? Mods: Lamonster IPS end caps w/ Gripper 3rd pegs, GPS mount, Power Plate, Perf. Muffler; Backoff Brake Light Strobe; CD Front (amber/red) Brightsides & Tip Kit; ISCI Flag Holder w/Long Poles; BRP Signature Light, Aux Lights, Saddlebag Liners, Garmin 590 GPS; TricLED foam Grips, LEDs (Aux/headlights); Pitbull Driving Lights; RDL seat; Ultimate backrest


    Previous ryde: 2012 RT-L, 26,636 miles on it when traded; 2014 RT-L, 34,147 miles on it when traded


  15. #15
    Motorbike Professor NancysToy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PMK View Post
    In reading the manual, and looking at parts books, the engine is described as a Dry Sump. It sounds as if the engine scavenge pump is routing the fluid back to the gearbox and using the gearbox area as a holding tank. The oil is common to the engine and gearbox.
    Interesting! Thanks for the update. I have never heard of anything quite like this...very innovative. I like the idea that the gearbox is always wet. That should help prevent corrosion and other problems caused by oil draining off in long-term storage.
    -Scotty
    2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
    2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
    2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder



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  16. #16
    Very Active Member Purple Guy's Avatar
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    Thanks for posting this, very informative!
    2014 RT-Ltd , Cognac

  17. #17
    Very Active Member ulflyer's Avatar
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    Default '14 Oil Drain quite Messy

    Did mine this PM and while BRP was kind enough to make openings in the belly pans for the oil to drain, the openings aren't quite large enough and some oil drained onto the belly pans and puddled on the floor. I'll know next time and devise some solution to prevent this; probably just dremel out the openings a little.

    The plug on the left side, the one with the O rings, Torx 40, wouldn't budge. Had the same problem with my '11. Took a small chisel and gave it a couple taps on the edge with a hammer and it loosened right up.

    Five quarts brought it half way between the fill lines (knobs). When filling, the oil goes in fairly slow so don't give it a big dump or you may have oil running all over.

    Now that I know the drill, it'll be easier next time, and hopefully not so messy.

    I used Castrol Actevo Blend 10-40 motorcycle oil. Jaso Ma2. My Walmart carrys this now $5.98 qt. Can be ordered online cheaper tho.
    Last edited by ulflyer; 03-13-2014 at 05:10 PM.
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    Very Active Member Jim&Teresa's Avatar
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    Really nice job of documenting - thanks....

    Do you have a picture of the engine drain plug? Just interested on what that looks like.

    Thanks for taking time to share the procedure and photo's....
    Happy and safe rydin'
    2014 Spyder RT Limited - January 2014, Cognac/Black Seat, #958, born on 1-8-14
    2014 RT Limited , Cognac

  19. #19
    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
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    Default Oil tank

    Quote Originally Posted by NancysToy View Post
    Interesting! Thanks for the update. I have never heard of anything quite like this...very innovative. I like the idea that the gearbox is always wet. That should help prevent corrosion and other problems caused by oil draining off in long-term storage.
    The whole front of the engine is the oil tank. A plastic bowl for the front and sides and the back wall is the engine. A dry sump engine without an oil tank that's pretty funny guys.
    See item 37 that's the oil tank. Item 22 is the engine oil tank screen.

    2014 oil tank.jpg

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  20. #20
    Very Active Member Jim&Teresa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ulflyer View Post
    Did mine this PM and while BRP was kind enough to make openings in the belly pans for the oil to drain, the openings aren't quite large enough and some oil drained onto the belly pans and puddled on the floor. I'll know next time and devise some solution to prevent this; probably just dremel out the openings a little.

    The plug on the left side, the one with the O rings, Torx 40, wouldn't budge. Had the same problem with my '11. Took a small chisel and gave it a couple taps on the edge with a hammer and it loosened right up.

    Five quarts brought it half way between the fill lines (knobs). When filling, the oil goes in fairly slow so don't give it a big dump or you may have oil running all over.

    Now that I know the drill, it'll be easier next time, and hopefully not so messy.
    I discovered this useful post from "sinkhole" posted back in 2010 -- used the hose on my 2012 RT Limited (and it worked great), but have not done an oil change on the 2014 RT Limited yet so I don't know if this trick still applies to keep oil off the belly pans....FYI (I bought a short piece of this clear hose at Ace True Value -- you can buy it by the foot there):

    To prevent oil from running onto the pan beneath the oil tank when draining the oil, insert a 2" long section of 1" diameter clear plastic hose through the hole in the pan, and over the boss on the bottom of the tank. This will allow passage of the hex extension through the hose so that the plug can be removed. Once the oil has been drained, the hose can be removed and the plug replaced. Attached Thumbnails
    Happy and safe rydin'
    2014 Spyder RT Limited - January 2014, Cognac/Black Seat, #958, born on 1-8-14
    2014 RT Limited , Cognac

  21. #21
    Motorbike Professor NancysToy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by billybovine View Post
    The whole front of the engine is the oil tank. A plastic bowl for the front and sides and the back wall is the engine. A dry sump engine without an oil tank that's pretty funny guys.
    See item 37 that's the oil tank. Item 22 is the engine oil tank screen.

    2014 oil tank.jpg
    Thanks. Apparently there is no oil screen to clean? It is not listed in the maintenance schedule.
    -Scotty
    2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
    2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
    2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder



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  22. #22
    Very Active Member PMK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by billybovine View Post
    The whole front of the engine is the oil tank. A plastic bowl for the front and sides and the back wall is the engine. A dry sump engine without an oil tank that's pretty funny guys.
    See item 37 that's the oil tank. Item 22 is the engine oil tank screen.

    2014 oil tank.jpg

    I guess my bad then, I was under the impression that there was no tank based on the method of checking the oil level. The engine must be run then shut down to check the level t be on the dipstick. The true oil level is a hot oil check.

    As for dry sump engines with no oil tank. How would we classify the modern four stroke Japanese MX machines.

    PK

  23. #23
    Active Member Texas's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ulflyer View Post
    Did mine this PM and while BRP was kind enough to make openings in the belly pans for the oil to drain, the openings aren't quite large enough and some oil drained onto the belly pans and puddled on the floor. I'll know next time and devise some solution to prevent this; probably just dremel out the openings a little.

    The plug on the left side, the one with the O rings, Torx 40, wouldn't budge. Had the same problem with my '11. Took a small chisel and gave it a couple taps on the edge with a hammer and it loosened right up.

    Five quarts brought it half way between the fill lines (knobs). When filling, the oil goes in fairly slow so don't give it a big dump or you may have oil running all over.

    Now that I know the drill, it'll be easier next time, and hopefully not so messy.
    I didn't even have one drip on the floor. However, the clearance between the bottom of the RT and the floor is not ideal, so it was very difficult to accomplish. My thinking is that next time I will drive the front end of the RT onto my vehicle ramps, then lift the rear to be the same height (however I haven't done any research on the lift point for the rear). This would give ample clearance making it not only much easier to remove the drain plugs, but also give me the opportunity to properly clean the bottom of the RT.

    As far as removing the drain plugs; I used a torque wrench, which made it very easy.

    I didn't have any issues filling the oil. I use a funnel with a small orifice, so that forces me to keep the flow at a rate under that which the RT can accept. At the rate I had to fill at, it took a while to add the 5.6qts.
    -Texas

  24. #24
    Very Active Member ulflyer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Texas View Post
    I didn't even have one drip on the floor. However, the clearance between the bottom of the RT and the floor is not ideal, so it was very difficult to accomplish. My thinking is that next time I will drive the front end of the RT onto my vehicle ramps, then lift the rear to be the same height (however I haven't done any research on the lift point for the rear). This would give ample clearance making it not only much easier to remove the drain plugs, but also give me the opportunity to properly clean the bottom of the RT.

    As far as removing the drain plugs; I used a torque wrench, which made it very easy.

    I didn't have any issues filling the oil. I use a funnel with a small orifice, so that forces me to keep the flow at a rate under that which the RT can accept. At the rate I had to fill at, it took a while to add the 5.6qts.
    I jacked mine up and put 8" wood blocks I had made for my previous '11 under all three wheels so that gave me lots of room. My issue with my T40 socket is that it was not a good tight fit and almost felt like it might strip, and that would have been a real problem; I doubt any dealer even has a plug in stock. Thats why I used the chisel, a method used by old timers for many years.
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    2019 Slingshot

  25. #25
    Active Member Texas's Avatar
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    Oct 2013
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    Austin, TX
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    292
    Spyder Garage
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    Quote Originally Posted by ulflyer View Post
    I jacked mine up and put 8" wood blocks I had made for my previous '11 under all three wheels so that gave me lots of room. My issue with my T40 socket is that it was not a good tight fit and almost felt like it might strip, and that would have been a real problem; I doubt any dealer even has a plug in stock. Thats why I used the chisel, a method used by old timers for many years.
    Yeah, the T40 fits, but it does twist a bit in the drain plug. I wasn't very happy about that. The upside is that the T45 fits perfectly in the other drain plug with no twist.
    -Texas

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