-
Registered Users
Hard jerks when down shifts
This is all a bit overwhelming. I have a 2013 RT Limited....the other day, right after I started off....when I came to a red light, twice, it would really jerk hard when it downshifted. It only happened twice, but in every gear down. Then it smoothed out and has not done it since. Anyone experience this? Should I take it to the shop to have the transmission checked? It has about 6500 miles on it.
-
Very Active Member
if this is something unusual about your Spyder, i would have the dealer check it the first chance i get.
Cruzr Joe
2018 F3 Limited, BRP Driver Backrest, Spyderpops Lighted Bump Skid, Dual Spyclops Light, Mirror Turn Signals, Laser Alignment, Engine LEDs, Fog Lights With Halo's, Cushion Handgrips, BRT LEDs, and Under Lighting, Lamonster IPS, (with Clock), F4 25" Vented Windshield with Wings, Airhawk "R" Cushions. Position 4 Brake setting, Short reach Handlebars, Dash Mounted Voltmeter and 12 Volt Plug. Set of 3rd pegs. Extended Passenger Seat. Exterior BRP Connect setup, Ultimate Trailer
-
The computers will normally "rev' the engine a bit on the downshift. This is supposed to help take some load off of the drivetrain by making sure that the engine's higher rpm level, will match up smoother once the clutches grab tight again.
Are you letting the "ESSIE" downshift automatically? Try kicking it down through the gears yourself, and see if that makes any difference.
Good Luck!
-
Very Active Member
I usually manually downshift the tranny at about 4000 rpm (2nd to first about 3000 rpm). I don't like the manual downshifts with the rev/clunk feel. I find a smooth, seamless shift by doing it manually. As mentioned above though, if you are experiencing a different action than you are used to, it might be a good idea to visit the shop.
Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.
Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)
MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles
IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
-
Registered Users
Thanks to all
I just took it out to wash it and it did it again. It is accelerating big time on the shifts....and this just started. It's going to the shop first thing in the morning.....funny thing is, once it warms up, it doesn't do it any more....it's smooth as silk both manual shift and auto shift....just when it first starts up and maybe 2 or 3 slow downs. But it accelerates hard enough that I could rear end someone....so I stay way back and keep braking. It's pretty scary.....so we'll see. Thanks for the replies.
-
Registered Users
Originally Posted by Cruzr Joe
if this is something unusual about your Spyder, i would have the dealer check it the first chance i get.
Cruzr Joe
Thanks Joe....shop first thing in the morning.
-
Registered Users
Originally Posted by Bob Denman
The computers will normally "rev' the engine a bit on the downshift. This is supposed to help take some load off of the drivetrain by making sure that the engine's higher rpm level, will match up smoother once the clutches grab tight again.
Are you letting the "ESSIE" downshift automatically? Try kicking it down through the gears yourself, and see if that makes any difference.
Good Luck!
Thanks Bob......I will try that in the morning when I take it to the shop.
-
Registered Users
Originally Posted by akspyderman
I usually manually downshift the tranny at about 4000 rpm (2nd to first about 3000 rpm). I don't like the manual downshifts with the rev/clunk feel. I find a smooth, seamless shift by doing it manually. As mentioned above though, if you are experiencing a different action than you are used to, it might be a good idea to visit the shop.
I was told to always shift between 5000 and 6000 rpm. I keep the rpms high....maybe too high. Will talk to the mechanic in the morning.
-
Very Active Member
you are good on the 5- 6000 rpm shifting
Joe
2018 F3 Limited, BRP Driver Backrest, Spyderpops Lighted Bump Skid, Dual Spyclops Light, Mirror Turn Signals, Laser Alignment, Engine LEDs, Fog Lights With Halo's, Cushion Handgrips, BRT LEDs, and Under Lighting, Lamonster IPS, (with Clock), F4 25" Vented Windshield with Wings, Airhawk "R" Cushions. Position 4 Brake setting, Short reach Handlebars, Dash Mounted Voltmeter and 12 Volt Plug. Set of 3rd pegs. Extended Passenger Seat. Exterior BRP Connect setup, Ultimate Trailer
-
Very Active Member
Hopefully it's just a minor glitch!
That's a nice lookin' Spyder you have there!
-
Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Sandysandals
I was told to always shift between 5000 and 6000 rpm. I keep the rpms high....maybe too high. Will talk to the mechanic in the morning.
Quote from post #4: "I usually manually downshift the tranny at about 4000 rpm (2nd to first about 3000 rpm). I don't like the manual downshifts with the rev/clunk feel. I find a smooth, seamless shift by doing it manually. As mentioned above though, if you are experiencing a different action than you are used to, it might be a good idea to visit the shop. "
My suggestion for the shifting rpms had to do with "downshifting" only. I always use the 5000-6000 rpms on the upshifting--just like you were recommended.
Last edited by ARtraveler; 03-06-2014 at 07:13 PM.
Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.
Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)
MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles
IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
-
Registered Users
If I let my 2013 RT-S downshift on it's own it does surge forward just a bit when going from 2nd to 1st. If I down shift myself, which I do 95% of the time, it's nice and smooth. You RPM sensor, that tells the transmission to down shift, may be waiting until the RPMs drop too much and then the RPM increase seems excessive. It will be interesting what the BUDS shows. Keep us posted.
-
I've noticed on my ST-Ltd that when the oil is good and full it shifts nicely but after a 1000 miles or so it starts to clink a little. Hows the oil level?
-
Registered Users
Originally Posted by Flamewinger
I've noticed on my ST-Ltd that when the oil is good and full it shifts nicely but after a 1000 miles or so it starts to clink a little. Hows the oil level?
I will have the oil checked and possibly changed tomorrow....I need to learn how to check it myself. The oil was changed about 2500 miles ago so it should be ok....but I'll find out.
-
My manual says to check it every 300 miles. I did a 1500 miles weekend and the dip stick read low but OK. I added a 1/4 of a qt and feel good. If the level goes below the dip stick then its about 1/2 qt low and many with automatics have serious shifting problems. Like it won't shift at all.
Its not that hard, the complicated part is getting the side cover back on! :-)
-
Registered Users
Originally Posted by Purple Guy
Hopefully it's just a minor glitch!
That's a nice lookin' Spyder you have there!
Thank you....I love my Viking chariot. It's so much fun. I'm putting it on the auto train in June and going from Sanford Florida to Lorton Virginia, then ride the Blue Ridge home...can't wait. Love my Spydee.
-
Active Member
Originally Posted by Sandysandals
I will have the oil checked and possibly changed tomorrow....I need to learn how to check it myself. The oil was changed about 2500 miles ago so it should be ok....but I'll find out.
If you have not checked it in 2500 miles it is probably low. It will do what you are describing when it gets low.
Have them show you how to take that panel off and check it.
-
low oil = hard shifts
It sounds like your oil is low my Wife's RT has had similar shifting issues when the oil got low one time. Have your dealer show you how to check it it is really quite simple
-
Registered Users
Have done the new update for the 13 teens, and oil ck after a long hard ride would be good to do? Ck all update and oil very important to do ASAP..
-
Oil
I had a problem with my 2012-low oil-I learned quickly check the level often!
-
Very Active Member
My 2011 did that from the time I got it at 250 miles. The surging was so violent I hated it. It wasn't until I had a loaner that I realized that this was not supposed to happen! I had my tech check it and found the clutch was shot. Apparently the fellow that put the first 250 mils on it ran at too low RPM. The new clutch fixed the problem. I too believe it may be low clutch oil.
2015 an Am Spyder RT Limited
2013 Yamaha WR250R - Sold
2011 Can Am Spyder RT-S SE5 Limited - Sold
2011 Aspen Sentry Trailer
2003 BMW K1200LT - Sold
2007 Unigo Trailer - Sold
2001 BMW K1200LT - Sold
2001 Honda 750 NightHawk - sold
2015 RT Ltd , Canamspyderaccessories Brake pedal ext. Red
-
Our 13' since day one has used 1/2-3/4 quart every 1,000 miles
and I am guessing yours is low on oil. I manually downshift ours at 2,800 rpms and when it has the correct oil level it shifts up and down smoothly. I would have anticipated when you purchased your Spyder the dealer during delivery would have demonstrated how to check your oil. You can do a search here and there is a wealth of info. on the topic.-Good Riding.
Lets ride!!!!
-
One more "agree" for low oil...
Our '13 ST-L also exhibited rough shifting pattern when we bought her initially...come to find out I wasn't checking the oil frequently enough. We were doing 600-800 miles each weekend, and I was checking the oil every 2-3 weeks. I now check it pretty much after each weekend trip and keep her topped off.
As a side note, when it's cold outside, the RPM's vacillate on our Spyders anywhere from 1300 to 1900 RPMs. This only lasts a few minutes, then they both settle down to between 1350 and 1400 RPMs. If you are hopping on your bike without letting it properly warm up, it may explain the surging...especially if it only lasts a short while as you indicated. During the cold months, I let the Spyder warm up for a few before backing her out of the driveway.
In any case, here's to hoping it is a minor problem!!!
You might want to have the dealership perform the ECM update for the '13 campaign as well...if you haven't already done so, that is.
-
Tyranny issues
My 2013 rt ltd started to give me shifting problems Wednesday afternoon, by yesterday didn't want to shift at all. It is in shop being tended to, pump problem!
-
Very Active Member
trailor mode
i now keep my bike in trailer mode and it down shifts better than it did b4
NO BIKE AT THIS TIME
Posting Permissions
- You may not post new threads
- You may not post replies
- You may not post attachments
- You may not edit your posts
-
Forum Rules
|