LH Front Panel Removal - '12 RT-S

[metman]

On a 2012 RT-S, how in the h _ _ l do you get those (3) screws out that sandwich the chrome aileron between the upper lip of the Bumper Cover and the lower lip of the Front Cover?

I want to remove the LH Lateral Support as discussed on page 740 in the Frame section. The front panel is referred to as item #2 in the diagram about body panel removal, but no where can I find details about how to remove it.

Mike in KY

[Bob Denman]

I believe that you'll need to pull the "frunk" off, and strip it down...
Good Luck!

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

On a 2012 RT-S, how in the h _ _ l do you get those (3) screws out that sandwich the chrome aileron between the upper lip of the Bumper Cover and the lower lip of the Front Cover?

I want to remove the LH Lateral Support as discussed on page 740 in the Frame section. The front panel is referred to as item #2 in the diagram about body panel removal, but no where can I find details about how to remove it.

Mike in KY

I think Bob meant to say frunk, not frank, in which case I agree with him. Looking at the 2013 service manual and parts list, and the 2012 parts list, it looks like the only viable option is to take the front cargo module off if this idea doesn't work.

Take out the rear screw for the front panel and the three plastic rivets that hold it to the trunk box, just under the hood. You might be able to spring that piece of plastic out enough to get to the screws for the lateral support without removing the front panel completely.

[metman]

My guess is that Bob was having a senior moment late on a Thursday night. The "a" key is too far away from the "u" key to have been a typo. But after 36K+ posts, the man's fingers have to be near worn out.

I wound up removing what I'm calling the "doghouse" tupperware and leaving the actual frunk in place. The frunk lid had to come off, but then the front tupperware came off rather easily. Then the LH fog light assembly, a bunch of wire ties, half a dozen or so screws and bolts, and finally the LH Lateral Support was out.

Now I can get to the front exhaust pipe to wrap it fairly easily. Then the rear pipe, then a gutted Cat, then BajaRon plugs and wires, a Stebel air horn, a (6) fuse auxiliary power hub, a couple Powerlet outlets front and back, a K&N filter from Ron, finish the canisterectomy, EBC rear pads from Ron, the Toyo Proxes 4, and a bunch of Ride-On and in the 622 trailer too.

With a little luck, I may get my spare set of castings re-powdercoated flat black so I can replace the current ones that were painted with Rust-Oleum truck bed paint.

I got to be ready to take off for Texas and points west come March the 30th for about 5K+ miles, eventually to SpyderFest 2014, my second one.

Mike in KY

[Bob Denman]

IPad keeps trying to tell me what I want to type...

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I wound up removing what I'm calling the "doghouse" tupperware and leaving the actual frunk in place. The frunk lid had to come off, but then the front tupperware came off rather easily. Then the LH fog light assembly, a bunch of wire ties, half a dozen or so screws and bolts, and finally the LH Lateral Support was out.

That may have been more work than taking the whole frunk off. It comes off with 8 screws and about 6 connectors. Well, there are 6 or 8 screws to take off the fascia in order to get the frunk off.

[Bob Denman]

You'll have some unlugging to do as well...
Mark where the cabling came from, and make notes as to the proper routing of them!

[3 Wheel Addict]

You have to take the whole front trunk off and remove the "cooling air tunnels" to get to the bolts that hold them in. This is also how you get in to remove or replace the fog lights, not the bulbs but the whole light itself.

[DR Buck]

IPad keeps trying to tell me what I want to type...

So what your say is "spell checker and predictive text has become your enema".

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

So what your say is "spell checker and predictive text has become your enema".

+1

[Bob Denman]

I have met the enema; he is me!