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  1. #26
    Very Active Member bmccaffrey's Avatar
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    Need to get to wires that are zipped tied to clip and lenghten

  2. #27
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default CAM-AM PARTS

    Quote Originally Posted by hchays View Post
    The ST bars are stock handlebars from a Spyder ST. So Your Can-Am dealer will be the only place you'll be able to get them. In an above post you
    l see a parts list that you will need to order for the install. I think all the parts total out to right around $200. The ST bars will bring the handlebar position up and back to give you a more upright and comfortable riding position. The really cool thing is, since they are stock Can-Am parts your Spyder still keeps the stock look.
    .... Wrong----there are lots of places to get genuine Can-Am parts other than the BRP dealer for lots less money ......PROCALIBER.COM --- CHEAPCYCLEPARTS.COM.........Mike

  3. #28
    Very Active Member IGETAROUND's Avatar
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    Default 2013 RS to ST handle bar swap

    Great write up, thanks. I'm getting ready to do this swap... one quick question - why do we need to remove the body panels? Also, is it three total panels to be removed?
    Much appreciated,
    Bodgerist

    Because the rule is you MUST remove at least three body panels to do ANYTHING other than dismounting from the seat and refueling!!!!
    All the great movements in the world began with a cup of coffee!

    2018 F3-T


    My mods: Can am Trailer hitch, USB and 12 volt power outlets, Gustason windshield, Bead rider seat cushion, battery harness for electric gear and battery tender, Time out trailer.
    2018 F3-T , Pearl White

  4. #29
    Registered Users cliffrider191's Avatar
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    Thumbs up So Much Better!

    Thanks hchays for the write up! it was super easy to follow and execute. I did not, however need to disassemble the ignition to remove it from the original bars. And a big thanks to alwaysontwowheels for selling me his black ST handlebars to put onto my 2013 matte orange and black RSS. Couldnt have done it otherwise.

  5. #30
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    Default Finally swapped RS for ST Handlebars - thanks for the excellent writeup!

    So, a year after buying the parts I finally made the handlebar swap. Thanks again for this excellent instruction set. A few comments:
    - DO IT! If you have an RS, swap out the handlebars! It doesn't take away from cornering at all, and it causes you to sit in a much more comfortable, neutral position. Motored around for over an hour with the ST bars and felt nothing in my lower back. Zero fatigue, Zero discomfort.
    - I agree with the earlier observation about the ignition pod. Once you remove the two 10mm bolts and remove the bar with threaded holes, you can lift the whole pod upward toward the direction of the ignition key and just rotate the top boss 1/6 turn counter-clockwise to unlock and remove it. Then the whole pod comes out.
    - I recommend buying new bolts for the handlebars and the handle tube clamps - the manual recommends to do so, and they come with loc-tite pre-applied.
    - The left hand side ST handlbar plastic cover was definitely a bit of a challenge to install. I finally got it by installing first the lower and back sides, then forcing the forward half around. The plastic is really bendy.
    - Routing of the wires on the left hand side goes forward of the hollow. It will all tuck into the plastic cover, except the clutch cable which has it's own recess in the plastic.
    - Handle tube clamps get 89 in-lbs of torque to install. Handlebar bolts get 28 foot-lbs. (P604 of the manual)
    - You'll need a total of 8 of the small bolts that hold the plastic covers on - you'll only have 4 from the RS.
    - My ST handlebar was used and didn't have the green metal cable retainer clips. I reused the ones from the RS, but found there was a clash when installing the left plastic cover, so i removed the clip and just tucked the cables in.
    - This took me a total of about 4 hours, but I work extremely slowly.
    - Did I mention to make the swap? Do it!

    Best of luck,
    Bodgerist

  6. #31
    Very Active Member Ron2andia's Avatar
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    Nice work thanks for sharing.
    Live, Love, and Ride! God Bless!

  7. #32
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    Great write up and install experience recommendations. For all that have done this how tall are you guys? Is the ST worth doing if you are say up to 5'-10" and above that should be the RT?

  8. #33
    Very Active Member bmccaffrey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmbspyderrss View Post
    Great write up and install experience recommendations. For all that have done this how tall are you guys? Is the ST worth doing if you are say up to 5'-10" and above that should be the RT?
    I'm 6'2" works fine if your shorter rt may be the way to go
    Spyder General Discussion


  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmccaffrey View Post
    I'm 6'2" works fine if your shorter rt may be the way to go
    Spyder General Discussion
    Sorry I'm confused by your answer. With your height you went with the RT? I'm 6'-1 and don't want ape hangers. Been there done that on 2 wheels.

  10. #35
    Very Active Member bmccaffrey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmbspyderrss View Post
    Sorry I'm confused by your answer. With your height you went with the RT? I'm 6'-1 and don't want ape hangers. Been there done that on 2 wheels.
    Go with RT Bar swap

  11. #36
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    Cool rs-st handlebar swap

    if you have an rs spyder, and the handle bars are just to low and unconfortable. then this swap is for you. i swapped out the bars on a sat. afternoon. the parts for an 2013 SE5 are 709400983, 709400987, 709400989. the st parts bolt right on with no trouble..

    have nice ride

  12. #37
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    Default 2012 RS SM5

    I know someone posted on this once, but they also said 2013-14 wasn’t probably interchangeable, but what about the 2013 RSS/ST to a 2012 RS sm5 handlebar swap? It would be nice to use the center bolts on the newer year bars for a gps mount etc, but also for the comfort.
    Last edited by The Ancients; 10-09-2018 at 12:02 PM.

  13. #38
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    Thank you so much for sharing this procedure. I was stumped by how to get the ignition switch out, but now I think that I can get it . Al in Wisconsin

  14. #39
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    Default Ignition switch spring

    Quote Originally Posted by Principalgrandpa View Post
    Thank you so much for sharing this procedure. I was stumped by how to get the ignition switch out, but now I think that I can get it . Al in Wisconsin
    Hi, While getting the ignition switch off of my oem handlebars, I had to take the ignition switch partially apart (st onto my rs) . In doing so, a little spring fell out (3/4" or so in length, similar to the spring in a ballpoint pen) .It has to do with the key turning in the key cylinder.

    The problem is that now I can't figure out how to get the spring back in.

    I have checked my service manual, but it doesn't even show the spring.


    If you can guide me on getting the spring in correctly, it would be greatly appreciated.

    Thank you very much. Al Schroeder
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 07-17-2022 at 07:08 PM. Reason: Removed extra [ ;-)

  15. #40
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    Hi,
    I'm doing the swap. Where does the little spring go? My spring fell out when I took the ignition switch apart.

    Thank you for any help that you can give.

    Al Schroeder

  16. #41
    Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie Peter Aawen's Avatar
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    Hi Al (principalgrandpa) I'm sorry that I can't help much with your problem, but you do really need to check the date on the other posts in this thread - the only person (so far, besides me now) who's posted in this thread since October 2018 is you with your last 3 posts, and from their profiles, I can see that the OP hasn't posted anything on the Forum since 2015 & most of the other main contributors who've done this swap & posted in this thread haven't even looked in on the Forum for over a year!! So there's a good chance that they won't respond no matter how many times you ask......

    You could try sending a PM to any of the other regular posters who've done this who are still actively posting, or maybe check out the parts listings & diagrams from BRP, Cheapcycleparts, etc to see if you can get an idea from them as to where that spring goes. There again, I'm pretty sure this isn't the only thread on dismantling/re-assembling the ignition switch (or the handlebar swap for that matter. ) so maybe doing a bit more searching & checking for any other threads that might help & possibly sending a PM to anyone from those who has a more recent 'last activity' date showing in their profile - bmccaffery maybe??

    Worth a shot, isn't it? Gotta be better than repeatedly asking the same thing in the same old thread anyway! But I am truly sorry I can't help you any more - I'm not in the same State as my Spyder atm, so I can't even pull its ignition apart to see where that spring goes/how it should fit back to help explain it to you. I do hope you get the help you're after soon! Good Luck.
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 01-25-2020 at 09:37 AM.
    2013 RT Ltd Pearl White

    Ryde More, Worry Less!

  17. #42
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    Default Worked Great!

    Thanks for the walkthrough, it helped a ton doing this on my 2013 RS! Rides much better now. I will say be careful tightening the bolts down on the rear handlebar trim and the handlebar clamps as they break easily. Also dropped an ignition bolt somewhere down in my plastics so watch that. Thanks!

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