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Active Member
Originally Posted by NancysToy
Yeah, that's what some dealers have said, and the same part number just about cinches the rumor. Unfortunately, BRP still specifies a full synthetic. They need to come out with a service bulletin saying what is appropriate and what is not. Their own darned oil now fails to meet their spec. That opens up any number of ugly scenarios! This whole business is totally unacceptable!!!
-Scotty
I am now wondering if the oil can have an effect on the SE5 shifting. The clutch is a centifical operation depending on the RPM's of the motor. If the oil is too thick, etc. would that have an effect on how that clutch will operate. I have (dealer installed) Amsoil 10-40 and not the 5-40 recommended. Do you think that would make the clutch sluggish?
Anyone, Scotty, Lamonster...
Juice
Happy owner of 2014 White RTS - SE6
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SpyderLovers Founder
Originally Posted by Spyderjuice
I am now wondering if the oil can have an effect on the SE5 shifting. The clutch is a centifical operation depending on the RPM's of the motor. If the oil is too thick, etc. would that have an effect on how that clutch will operate. I have (dealer installed) Amsoil 10-40 and not the 5-40 recommended. Do you think that would make the clutch sluggish?
Anyone, Scotty, Lamonster...
Juice
It might have a slight effect when it's cold but I wouldn't think that the difference between 5-40 and 10-40 is enough to matter.
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Registered Users
Rotella in the BLUE Bottle
You can not use any oil that is rated SM or ILSAC GF-4 in any wet clutch engine system.
I believe if you read the back of the Shell Rotella in the blue 1 gal bottle you will find it is not in the above catagory.
You must use an oil which is rated SL, SJ, SH or SG for wet clutches.
I break-in all my machines with the rotella 5/40 in the blue bottle. I have never had one clutch slip because this oil has the correct rating.
Break-in oil change schedule for me is... and before anyone says "over kill" on oil/filters changes... remember all those tiny glittering particles you can see in the sunlight are metal machining particles.
I change oil and filter after first 50 to 60 miles, Then again at 800 miles then the next change is at 1800 to 2000 miles. After that I go to the regular schedule for the leading synthetic oil. Also if there is a differential as with the GL series of road cruisers. That gets changed at the 800 mile oil change and again at 1800 to 2000. This is the way that most racers break them in... "knock on wood" I've never had an engine, clutch or tranny problem.
Last but not least... I never ever let a dealer touch my oil and filter. Some do what they say but there are many that do not and you really don't know what you are getting unless you do it yourself. Don't believe me? Try using a felt tip marker and you may find I'm right and if you are lucky enough to get a good dealer... well then... I'll be wrong. There is always an exception to every rule.
Last edited by krb1945; 04-26-2009 at 05:20 AM.
Ken krb1945 "Happy Owner"
USN DAV 100% 'er
Proud grandfather of a former United States Marine
1 2008 SM5 PE 548
1 2008 SM5, 1 2009 SE5
2008 GL1800
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Registered Users
[quote=krb1945;92451]You can not use any oil that is rated SM or ILSAC GF-4 in any wet clutch engine system.
I believe if you read the back of the Shell Rotella in the blue 1 gal bottle you will find it is not in the above catagory.
You must use an oil which is rated SL, SJ, SH or SG for wet clutches.
Make sure you look closely at the blue bottle Rotella oil. They have changed the formula. It now has an SM rating. I looked at all the bottles at my local Walmart and they were all the new formula. I did find (and bought) the last 3 gallons at Auto Zone. I am sure when they reorder it will be with the new formula so look closely and buy up all the older gallons you can find!
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Registered Users
Oil and clutch plates
Be sure when you change your oil to "NEVER" use any oil that says "Energy Conservation" on the bottle. This type of oil has friction modifiers in it and it will definitely make a wet clutch slip.
Only use oil that is designed for wet clutches and motorcycles.
Now I'll go back to sleep...
Ken krb1945 "Happy Owner"
USN DAV 100% 'er
Proud grandfather of a former United States Marine
1 2008 SM5 PE 548
1 2008 SM5, 1 2009 SE5
2008 GL1800
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Very Active Member
Rotella oil
[quote=ima rider;92965]
Originally Posted by krb1945
You can not use any oil that is rated SM or ILSAC GF-4 in any wet clutch engine system.
I believe if you read the back of the Shell Rotella in the blue 1 gal bottle you will find it is not in the above catagory.
You must use an oil which is rated SL, SJ, SH or SG for wet clutches.
Make sure you look closely at the blue bottle Rotella oil. They have changed the formula. It now has an SM rating. I looked at all the bottles at my local Walmart and they were all the new formula. I did find (and bought) the last 3 gallons at Auto Zone. I am sure when they reorder it will be with the new formula so look closely and buy up all the older gallons you can find!
I have some motorcycle buddies that use Rotella oil, and I know of no real issues they are having; However, that being said, Rotella T is Truck oil and it is not certified for motorcycle use. The ONLY certification for motorcycles that use a common sump for the clutch, tranny, and engine is: JASCO MA. I will not put a drop of anything in my motorcycles unless it is certified "JASCO MA."
WE DON'T QUIT PLAYING BECAUSE WE GROW OLD; WE GROW OLD BECAUSE WE QUIT PLAYING
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there are two different blue bottles of Rotella T 5-40 synthetic, one that i found in walmart is sm and GF4 rated, the one i got in Pepboys is rated CI/4plus-SL and says ADVANCED SOOT CONTROL in 1/4" letters above rotella on the front of the bottle, it shifts the same as the amsoil to me
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