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  1. #1
    Very Active Member ulflyer's Avatar
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    Default Motor Drain Plug?

    http://rivaracing.onlinemicrofiche.c...JECTION-SYSTEM

    Looking at the above fiche, part nr. 24 is the oil drain plug I assume, but what are the two different "O" Rings for (parts 25 &26) ? And theres a gasket on top of those! Seems strange to me. I'm still a good ways off before changing my oil but want to know in advance if those O rings are something that has to be replaced each time.
    Last edited by ulflyer; 02-25-2014 at 04:11 PM.
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    Unless they changed some thing drastic the only o rings are on the oil filter housings engine and transmission and usually a crush washer on the drain plugs it self.

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    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ulflyer View Post
    http://rivaracing.onlinemicrofiche.c...JECTION-SYSTEM

    Looking at the above fiche, part nr. 24 is the oil drain plug I assume, but what are the two different "O" Rings for (parts 25 &26) ? And theres a gasket on top of those! Seems strange to me. I'm still a good ways off before changing my oil but want to know in advance if those O rings are something that has to be replaced each time.
    I would love to have parts in my hand to know for sure, but by looking at the fiche there is one crush washer and 2 o-rings that fit in groves in the drain plug bolt. I would change them every time, but that's me. Now my question is, are those the o-rings that caused trouble on bluestratos RT giving him the tranny trouble?

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    Thinks out loud Jeriatric's Avatar
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    http://rivaracing.onlinemicrofiche.c...JECTION-SYSTEM

    Guessing here but would suspect #10's failure to seal #5, and #9 are the likely culprits of bluestraros' problem.

    Looks like a bad guess based on what bluestratos just posted.




    Quote Originally Posted by billybovine View Post
    I would love to have parts in my hand to know for sure, but by looking at the fiche there is one crush washer and 2 o-rings that fit in groves in the drain plug bolt. I would change them every time, but that's me. Now my question is, are those the o-rings that caused trouble on bluestratos RT giving him the tranny trouble?
    Last edited by Jeriatric; 02-25-2014 at 05:40 PM.


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    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jerbear View Post
    http://rivaracing.onlinemicrofiche.c...JECTION-SYSTEM

    Guessing here but would suspect #10's failure to seal #5, and #9 are the likely culprits of bluestraros' problem.
    I don't think so. Quote from bluestratos.

    He found a torn O ring that separates the tranny reservoir from the engine reservoir (the new high tech drain plug) and for good measure he replace the entire clutch, clutch cover and the hydraulic actuators (I think that is what he said).

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    Thinks out loud Jeriatric's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by billybovine View Post
    I don't think so. Quote from bluestratos.

    He found a torn O ring that separates the tranny reservoir from the engine reservoir (the new high tech drain plug) and for good measure he replace the entire clutch, clutch cover and the hydraulic actuators (I think that is what he said).
    Just read that myself. Edited and so noted in my previous post. Learn as we go.


    Edit:
    That's the price one must pay when willing to think out loud.
    Last edited by Jeriatric; 02-25-2014 at 05:54 PM.


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    Very Active Member ulflyer's Avatar
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    I'm confused, which is not at all unusual, but is it being said that the O rings on the drain plug were the problem, and may be something that definitely should be changed each time the oil is drained? If so, then so be it, but dang, those O rings are pricy critters.
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    I have no idea why BRP would put O Rings on a oil drain plug. If the drain hole is threaded all the way to the surface the O rings do nothing to seal, the crush washer is more of a seal.

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    Very Active Member Cruzr Joe's Avatar
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    why have two "O" rings with different part numbers and does it make a difference which one goes on first??

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    Thinks out loud Jeriatric's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edmarino View Post
    I have no idea why BRP would put O Rings on a oil drain plug. If the drain hole is threaded all the way to the surface the O rings do nothing to seal, the crush washer is more of a seal.

    As I understand it the '0' rings serve as oil containment - chamber seperaters. If that is wrong. Someone please correct me.


    Having a background in pnedraulics. I can say with certainty '0' rings installed over threads or any sharp edges requires the utmost of care. Or......failure is imminent.


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    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cruzr Joe View Post
    why have two "O" rings with different part numbers and does it make a difference which one goes on first??

    Cruzr Joe
    The O-rings are 2 different sizes and they fit in 2 different size grooves in the drain plug.

    O-rings 2014.JPG

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    Very Active Member Cruzr Joe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by billybovine View Post
    The O-rings are 2 different sizes and they fit in 2 different size grooves in the drain plug.

    O-rings 2014.JPG
    Thanks, i will store that info for further use.

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    They sure DO like like a part that needs "closer than normal" scrutiny...
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    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jerbear View Post
    Having a background in pnedraulics. I can say with certainty '0' rings installed over threads or any sharp edges requires the utmost of care. Or......failure is imminent.
    What part of the drain plug is threaded the base or the tip? I can't tell from the parts catalog.

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    Thinks out loud Jeriatric's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by billybovine View Post
    What part of the drain plug is threaded the base or the tip? I can't tell from the parts catalog.
    Best guess is it is threaded on the driver end. That said if the edges the '0' rings pass over for installation are not rounded(?). That's a problem, if care is not taken during '0' ring installation.
    Last edited by Jeriatric; 02-27-2014 at 11:48 AM.


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    The IPB does not indcate this, nor have I seen the drain plug but, it may be tappered. Thus the two different sizes of '0' rings. Pure speculation on my part. Surely someone here has seen how it is designed. Input?


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    Quote Originally Posted by Jerbear View Post
    The IPB does not indcate this, nor have I seen the drain plug but, it may be tappered. Thus the two different sizes of '0' rings. Pure speculation on my part. Surely someone here has seen how it is designed. Input?
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    Question Oil filter and oil tank question

    After looking at the diagram of the oil filter and oil tank cover I have a couple questions for you new 2014 RT owners. Maybe some of you have looked into doing your own oil change.

    It appears that the oil filter comes out from the top. If it comes out from the top, it seems like it's going to be a pretty messy job to do an oil change. Maybe that's why the interval has been made longer for the new engine? Is my assumption correct or is the diagram turned upside down so you can see the filter better on the diagram? Also how difficult will it be to get to the oil filter? What has to be removed to get to it? The other question is on what they are calling the oil tank cover. It has a large gasket around it. Is it really a cover or is a tank? and why do they need it? The housing for oil filter seems connected somehow to it. How does that work?

    Is the oil changing process described in detail the owner's manual?

    I don't have the 2014 RT Spyder, but I am interested in one.

    I like to do all my own work on my bikes so like to investigate how all the maintenance is done when doing research on bikes.

    I'm looking forward to seeing some YouTube videos on doing all the maintenance on the new 2014 RT's.

    Thanks

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    Very Active Member ulflyer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Redevil06 View Post
    After looking at the diagram of the oil filter and oil tank cover I have a couple questions for you new 2014 RT owners. Maybe some of you have looked into doing your own oil change.

    It appears that the oil filter comes out from the top. If it comes out from the top, it seems like it's going to be a pretty messy job to do an oil change. Maybe that's why the interval has been made longer for the new engine? Is my assumption correct or is the diagram turned upside down so you can see the filter better on the diagram? Also how difficult will it be to get to the oil filter? What has to be removed to get to it? The other question is on what they are calling the oil tank cover. It has a large gasket around it. Is it really a cover or is a tank? and why do they need it? The housing for oil filter seems connected somehow to it. How does that work?

    Is the oil changing process described in detail the owner's manual?

    I don't have the 2014 RT Spyder, but I am interested in one.

    I like to do all my own work on my bikes so like to investigate how all the maintenance is done when doing research on bikes.

    I'm looking forward to seeing some YouTube videos on doing all the maintenance on the new 2014 RT's.

    Thanks
    The OM says to take off top right panel; this involves removing the mirror, wind deflector, and top panel, then wrap a rag around the filter as you pull it out. Basically thats it. I've had panels off on my previous '11 and its no problem especially since the filter is good for 9000 miles. I've yet to be convinced that any oil will last 9K miles and will be testing it at 4 or 5K to see if I can syphon a sample out of that top tank. I'm leaning more towards a 5K change until proven otherwise.

    I'm still about 1000 miles from when I want to change mine and thus far the dealer doesnt have any filters in stock, although they are on order.

    Then you have those O rings to deal with on one of the drain plugs as well as the filter. Betcha anything the dealer won't have those in stock!
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    If you change all the o rings and filter cartridge plus oil and do it yourself and pay oem prices you are looking at a hundred plus dollars. Give it to a dealer and you probably will get a two hundred dollar bill for an oil change. It sure seems a bit pricey to me.

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    Active Member spyderyderjim's Avatar
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    Default 2014 RT oil drain plug small Green O ring #25 in fiche is part# 420430115

    Quote Originally Posted by ulflyer View Post
    The OM says to take off top right panel; this involves removing the mirror, wind deflector, and top panel, then wrap a rag around the filter as you pull it out. Basically thats it. I've had panels off on my previous '11 and its no problem especially since the filter is good for 9000 miles. I've yet to be convinced that any oil will last 9K miles and will be testing it at 4 or 5K to see if I can syphon a sample out of that top tank. I'm leaning more towards a 5K change until proven otherwise.

    I'm still about 1000 miles from when I want to change mine and thus far the dealer doesnt have any filters in stock, although they are on order.

    Then you have those O rings to deal with on one of the drain plugs as well as the filter. Betcha anything the dealer won't have those in stock!
    Dealer does not carry 2014 RT oil drain plug O rings yet, need to order.
    The small green O ring #420430115 needs to be replaced every oil change, (buy a spare).
    The engine drain plug is angled slightly toward rear, if dealer is not careful when installing drain plug at an angle,
    the small green O ring is torn, like I found mine was when I changed the oil in 2014 RT!!!
    The rest of O rings should be good to use over & over for oil changes.
    I bought 1 of each O ring, 12 & 14mm copper washers for a spare if needed; (expensive price, will kill a $100 bill).
    The 2014 RT oil change is super easy compared to a 2013 RT!!!
    Texas has a great 2014 RT oil change blog with list of O ring#, & photos.
    Enjoy.
    Jim
    2014 RT torn green O ring engine drain plug.jpg2014 RT engine oil drain plug.jpg

  22. #22
    Very Active Member Jim&Teresa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by spyderyderjim View Post
    Dealer does not carry 2014 RT oil drain plug O rings yet, need to order.
    The small green O ring #420430115 needs to be replaced every oil change, (buy a spare).
    The engine drain plug is angled slightly toward rear, if dealer is not careful when installing drain plug at an angle,
    the small green O ring is torn, like I found mine was when I changed the oil in 2014 RT!!!
    The rest of O rings should be good to use over & over for oil changes.
    I bought 1 of each O ring, 12 & 14mm copper washers for a spare if needed; (expensive price, will kill a $100 bill).
    The 2014 RT oil change is super easy compared to a 2013 RT!!!
    Texas has a great 2014 RT oil change blog with list of O ring#, & photos.
    Enjoy.
    Jim
    2014 RT torn green O ring engine drain plug.jpg2014 RT engine oil drain plug.jpg
    Thanks for the "heads up" and photos....
    Happy and safe rydin'
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    2014 RT Limited , Cognac

  23. #23
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    Have an extra drain plug on hand as a spare. My extra bit if advice.


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  24. #24
    Very Active Member ulflyer's Avatar
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    Default Northern Tool has nice Torx

    Picked up a T40 and T45 3/8 drive socket for $3.98 ea. Made in Taiwan and looked like nice quality. They also had them in 1/2" drive if you prefer.
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