Trailer/Camper towing question.

[Magdave]

In SC trailers do not need a license plate. What happens if I get a trailer and go on a road trip? Can I expect to get pulled over a lot while observing the speed limits and laws?

Secondly who has a Sentry camper and how does it tow? What did you do to make the wiring compatible with a Spyder.

Thirdly what is the pinout for a 4 square plug like on the 2013. My wife wants to do an east coast Lighthouse tour from Maine to Florida sorta bucket list thing and I am working on the planning. Thanks in advance.

[Cruzr Joe]

that was 3 questions and i am not authorized to answer any of them.

Cruzr Joe

[cuznjohn]

move my bike plate to the trailer when traveling

[bmwlarry]

First of all, I have towed the Aspen Sentry all over the US without a plate and never had a problem. The sentry tows like a dream! Mine has electric brakes but I have never installed the controller. I have a lot of towing experience and you just need to know what is happening around you! You must ride VERY defensively and always expect some one to do something stupid. I brake early at every stop to avoid overworking the brakes.

[Magdave]

First of all, I have towed the Aspen Sentry all over the US without a plate and never had a problem. The sentry tows like a dream! Mine has electric brakes but I have never installed the controller. I have a lot of towing experience and you just need to know what is happening around you! You must ride VERY defensively and always expect some one to do something stupid. I brake early at every stop to avoid overworking the brakes.

Good info and I hear you on the brakes I have towed a lot with my Terrain but never on a motorcycle. I do also know about the towing mode setting on pre 2014s. How did you convert the round 6 wire plug?

[NancysToy]

Can't help you with the trailer plate question. I'd carry a copy of your state law exemption with you, in case you get stopped along the way. My wife does that with her '63 Falcon to explain the lack of seat belts.

The Sentry tows well as long as you watch both the total weight (remember that a loaded cooler can weigh 80 pounds or more) and the tongue weight. Any trailer will "hunt" if the tongue weight is too low. The Sentry is more subject to wind influence than smaller trailers, and will cost you some gas mileage as it is like towing a sheet of plywood through the air.

There are a couple of ways to address the 5-wire system of the Sentry. You can replace the amber turn signal lenses with red ones, then wire it as a 4-wire stsyem, either replacing the round-6 or just splicing in a square-4 connector. You could also make an adapter from square-4 to round-6. Another alternative is to wire a 5-wire pigtail directly into the Spyder lighting system, and don't use the OEM harness. That will also require a different connector on the Sentry, or an adapter. I took another approach. I separated the brake lights on the Sentry and added a wire running forward for the disconnected one. The brake lights were then able to used as both brake and turn on a 4-wire system. I spliced in a 4-wire connector, but retained my 6-wire plug (I replaced the round with a rectangular) for use with the adapter my other trailers use. With a jumper in my adapter I can use the trailer for either 4-wire or 5-wire systems...or the oddball early BRP 6-wire version without the jumper to connect the right and left brake circuits.

I don't remember the standard pinout for the square-4, but it is confusing anyway as it reverses depending on which half of the connector is being viewed. I believe BRP has reverted to standard trailer wiring colors leading to the square-4 connector, although this should be confirmed. In that case brown = running lights, green= right turn/brake, yellow = left turn/brake, and white = ground. Always best to just ring them out with a voltmeter, since I have seen some that were not standard patterns.

[Magdave]

Can't help you with the trailer plate question. I'd carry a copy of your state law exemption with you, in case you get stopped along the way. My wife does that with her '63 Falcon to explain the lack of seat belts.

The Sentry tows well as long as you watch both the total weight (remember that a loaded cooler can weigh 80 pounds or more) and the tongue weight. Any trailer will "hunt" if the tongue weight is too low. The Sentry is more subject to wind influence than smaller trailers, and will cost you some gas mileage as it is like towing a sheet of plywood through the air.

There are a couple of ways to address the 5-wire system of the Sentry. You can replace the amber turn signal lenses with red ones, then wire it as a 4-wire stsyem, either replacing the round-6 or just splicing in a square-4 connector. You could also make an adapter from square-4 to round-6. Another alternative is to wire a 5-wire pigtail directly into the Spyder lighting system, and don't use the OEM harness. That will also require a different connector on the Sentry, or an adapter. I took another approach. I separated the brake lights on the Sentry and added a wire running forward for the disconnected one. The brake lights were then able to used as both brake and turn on a 4-wire system. I spliced in a 4-wire connector, but retained my 6-wire plug (I replaced the round with a rectangular) for use with the adapter my other trailers use. With a jumper in my adapter I can use the trailer for either 4-wire or 5-wire systems...or the oddball early BRP 6-wire version without the jumper to connect the right and left brake circuits.

I don't remember the standard pinout for the square-4, but it is confusing anyway as it reverses depending on which half of the connector is being viewed. I believe BRP has reverted to standard trailer wiring colors leading to the square-4 connector, although this should be confirmed. In that case brown = running lights, green= right turn/brake, yellow = left turn/brake, and white = ground. Always best to just ring them out with a voltmeter, since I have seen some that were not standard patterns.

Thanks Scotty that was exactly what I wanted to know about the wiring. I like your solution as I was wondering about the turn/brake separation. Do you remember where the junction for the brake light wire you cut was?

[Magdave]

I just found this great solution to make an adapter for the 4 square to flat 4 connector. Looks like Scotty was spot on with the colors too.
http://myspyderstuff.wordpress.com/2...4-pin-adapter/

[gwritesel]

Can't help you with the trailer plate question. I'd carry a copy of your state law exemption with you, in case you get stopped along the way. My wife does that with her '63 Falcon to explain the lack of seat belts.

The Sentry tows well as long as you watch both the total weight (remember that a loaded cooler can weigh 80 pounds or more) and the tongue weight. Any trailer will "hunt" if the tongue weight is too low. The Sentry is more subject to wind influence than smaller trailers, and will cost you some gas mileage as it is like towing a sheet of plywood through the air.

There are a couple of ways to address the 5-wire system of the Sentry. You can replace the amber turn signal lenses with red ones, then wire it as a 4-wire stsyem, either replacing the round-6 or just splicing in a square-4 connector. You could also make an adapter from square-4 to round-6. Another alternative is to wire a 5-wire pigtail directly into the Spyder lighting system, and don't use the OEM harness. That will also require a different connector on the Sentry, or an adapter. I took another approach. I separated the brake lights on the Sentry and added a wire running forward for the disconnected one. The brake lights were then able to used as both brake and turn on a 4-wire system. I spliced in a 4-wire connector, but retained my 6-wire plug (I replaced the round with a rectangular) for use with the adapter my other trailers use. With a jumper in my adapter I can use the trailer for either 4-wire or 5-wire systems...or the oddball early BRP 6-wire version without the jumper to connect the right and left brake circuits.

I don't remember the standard pinout for the square-4, but it is confusing anyway as it reverses depending on which half of the connector is being viewed. I believe BRP has reverted to standard trailer wiring colors leading to the square-4 connector, although this should be confirmed. In that case brown = running lights, green= right turn/brake, yellow = left turn/brake, and white = ground. Always best to just ring them out with a voltmeter, since I have seen some that were not standard patterns.

I replaced the lenses on my Aspen Classic, I think they were less than 20 bucks from Trailmaster

[Magdave]

I replaced the lenses on my Aspen Classic, I think they were less than 20 bucks from Trailmaster

I was thinking about that too when I order it. It is a ways off but doing my planning now.

[Magdave]

Is the Aspen Ambassador to big for the Spyder? I might have a line on one is why I am asking.

[NancysToy]

Thanks Scotty that was exactly what I wanted to know about the wiring. I like your solution as I was wondering about the turn/brake separation. Do you remember where the junction for the brake light wire you cut was?

I clipped it near the socket on one side in the rear. I don't remember the details, I just clipped off the wire running to the second brakelight from the one directly fed from the main harness. I then ran a new wire from that light to the tongue/connector. I don't remember which side was fed directly and which was secondary, but it's pretty easy on the Sentry as the wires aren't deeply buried.

Is the Aspen Ambassador to big for the Spyder? I might have a line on one is why I am asking.

We considered an Ambassador. They are heavier, and would further limit your cargo capacity, but I expect they will work. We went with the Sentry because we are old and wounded, and climbing over the back and going down the stairs to trot off to the potty in the middle of the night sounded dangerous for folks with arthritis and bionic parts. We also liked the attached dressing room of the Sentry vs. the aisle of the Ambassador. It's a good place for the porta-potty or a couple of chairs. The Sentry can be set up or taken down by one person, too, which is difficult with the hardtop Ambassador. A bargain Ambassador would certainly be worth looking at, however. JMHO

[Larry rt]

I use a time out pop up trailer. Opens up to 14 ft. Long , takes about 15 minutes. Has a cooler in front accessible from camper. Also an opening for an A/C unit .
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1393024640.188899.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1393024683.270167.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1393024731.887346.jpg

[Larry rt]

Can use a 4 wire or 5 wire flat hook up also

[Mettlerk]

In SC trailers do not need a license plate. What happens if I get a trailer and go on a road trip? Can I expect to get pulled over a lot while observing the speed limits and laws?

Secondly who has a Sentry camper and how does it tow? What did you do to make the wiring compatible with a Spyder.

Thirdly what is the pinout for a 4 square plug like on the 2013. My wife wants to do an east coast Lighthouse tour from Maine to Florida sorta bucket list thing and I am working on the planning. Thanks in advance.

I to live in SC and found out that the trailer falls under the laws of the state in which the vehicle towing the trailer is license in. I have pulled my utility trailer across country and have never had a problem. Even the trailer I tow behind my spyder doesn't require a plate.

Hope this helps.

[Magdave]

I use a time out pop up trailer. Opens up to 14 ft. Long , takes about 15 minutes. Has a cooler in front accessible from camper. Also an opening for an A/C unit .
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1393024640.188899.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1393024683.270167.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1393024731.887346.jpg

Hmm looks nice too gonna have to check them out.

[Bob Denman]

I to live in SC and found out that the trailer falls under the laws of the state in which the vehicle towing the trailer is license in. I have pulled my utility trailer across country and have never had a problem. Even the trailer I tow behind my spyder doesn't require a plate.

Hope this helps.

It does!
I think that Scotty has the right idea; carry along the regulations that cover licensing (or not!) for your State...

Dave!
You're gonna be passing up through New York when you undertake the lighthouse Tour...
Let us know when that happens, and the New York contingent will meet you along the way!

[oldrider]

if my mind works right any thing in tow has to have plate on it.i live in NE and Mass . NH Maine has plate law for tow trailer

[bodymanpainter]

I just found this great solution to make an adapter for the 4 square to flat 4 connector. Looks like Scotty was spot on with the colors too.
http://myspyderstuff.wordpress.com/2...4-pin-adapter/

I like this idea! I was wondering how to wire a trailer into the harness on the new connectors.
Thanks,
Toby

[ingramsail]

Sometime buying two plugs is ok but just go Napa and have them order the sq. 4 pin plug .It's only 5 to 6 buck.

[Magdave]

Here is an interesting one albeit pricey

[Magdave]

And a little more cost friendly but harder to put tighter. They also toss in some nice options

http://www.ebay.com/itm/360861513995...84.m1423.l2649

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Another alternative is to wire a 5-wire pigtail directly into the Spyder lighting system, and don't use the OEM harness. That will also require a different connector on the Sentry, or an adapter.

You can use the OEM harness, with modification. The harness is a Y harness that plugs inline into the cargo interconnector and into the OEM trailer isolator. Basically what I did was use the OEM Y harness and connect it to a Goldwing trailer isolator, which is 5 wire output. Connect the 5 wire cable to the 5 wire trailer harness with your preferred connector. You can connect the isolator to the Y harness with a 6 pin Deutsch connector, available on eBay and elsewhere online, or cut the connector off and splice the wires together. This way you protect the bike wiring from any trailer shorts and power the trailer lights directly from the battery. The Y harness has a fused power lead in it. If you want you could tie into the power lead and add a sixth wire to the trailer to carry constant, with key on, power to the trailer. Then you would use a 6 pole connector to the trailer.

The isolator is very low power draw so it won't upset the turn signal load like the added trailer lights may.

[Magdave]

another one on my radar



http://www.openroadoutfitters.com/ti...riginal-camper

[MoonChaser213]