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  1. #1
    Active Member zbunker's Avatar
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    Default '14 Engine Break In Question

    Hi all,
    Gonna be picking up my 2014 RT shortly. I was curious what the general consensuses is regarding breaking in this new three cylinder engine.

    Ron

  2. #2
    Very Active Member cuznjohn's Avatar
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    Default break in

    as a rule you should never ride at the same speed and rpm for long periods of time, other than that go for it. i have done this for years with out a problem
    NO BIKE AT THIS TIME

  3. #3
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    Varying the rpm levels... and just don't wring it's tail too tightly...
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

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    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default Have to agree..!!

    keep from crusing at a constant speed and rpm. Move through the gears ryde the different highways and byways so pretty much ryde it like your going to after you break her in with that one exception. Fastest way to get mileage is to get on the freeway and cruise but the least fun...enjoy your new ryde..!!
    Gene and Ilana De Laney
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  5. #5
    Very Active Member BikerDoc's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by zbunker View Post
    Hi all,
    Gonna be picking up my 2014 RT shortly. I was curious what the general consensuses is regarding breaking in this new three cylinder engine.

    Ron
    Go on the ride with us on Sat the 15th and we will have it broken in by the time we return..
    220,000 Mile Spyder Ryder, IBA Premier member #59352, Saddlesore 1000 (11), Bun Burner 1500 (3), Saddlesore 2000 (2), Bun Burner Gold, MILEEATER SILVER

  6. #6
    Active Member zbunker's Avatar
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    Default '14 Engine Break In Question

    Quote Originally Posted by BikerDoc View Post
    Go on the ride with us on Sat the 15th and we will have it broken in by the time we return..
    Can't make the 15th, Doc, but if everything goes like written in the brochures we should see you @ CFPS Sat. Mar. 1
    Ron

  7. #7
    Very Active Member ARtraveler's Avatar
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    Default

    Per page 56 of the owners manual:

    Operation during break in:

    During the first 3000 miles--

    : Avoid full throttle acceleration
    : Avoid prolonged riding
    : If cooling fan operates continuously...pull over and cool off the engine.

    All just basic information. Others have also recommended running the engine at different rpms and gears. This allows for parts to get seated in nicely.

    I would avoid "beating the crap out of it" or "ride it like you stole it" until later.

    After a couple hundred miles, I then start to pick up the pace a little bit.

    Tires and brakes need about 350 miles also.


    Enjoy your new ryde.

    Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.

    Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)

    MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles

    IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
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  8. #8
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    Default

    Avoid prolonged riding? Oh no, I don't think I can do that.
    2017 F3T-SM6 Squared Away Mirror Wedgies & Alignment
    2014 RTS-SM6 123,600 miles Sold 11/2017
    2014 RTL-SE6 8,600 miles
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  9. #9
    Very Active Member ARtraveler's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SpyderAnn01 View Post
    Avoid prolonged riding? Oh no, I don't think I can do that.
    I don't think your would dare require that of you.

    Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.

    Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)

    MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles

    IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
    2020 F3L , Magma Red

  10. #10
    Very Active Member ulflyer's Avatar
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    Default

    If you don't have diff type roads conducive to varying the rpm, use the gears to do it.
    Two Wheelers from 1963-2011

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  11. #11
    Active Member spyderyderjim's Avatar
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    Default 2014 Spyder RT-S breaking in awesome 1330 motor

    Quote Originally Posted by zbunker View Post
    Hi all,
    Gonna be picking up my 2014 RT shortly. I was curious what the general consensuses is regarding breaking in this new three cylinder engine.

    Ron
    http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

    I have used this method on all my many motorcycles over the years. Oil rings seal well, good compression, strong motors.
    Rolling off throttle letting de-compression slow you down is what seats the oil rings.
    Enjoy your new 1330 motor/smooth shifting trans RT!!!
    My 2014 RT-S SE6 is broke in, strong torque pulling throught the smooth shifting gears! Jim

  12. #12
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    Default

    The way they build engines these days, the materials and machining plus run in at the factory, there isn't nearly as much break-in care needed as in the old days. Especially with water cooled engines.

    Main thing is to not let it sit idling to warm up. Very bad for any engine but worse on a new engine with more blow-by. Start it, let it idle about 1 minute at most, and then ride it easy until it gets to operating temperature. That will probably make more difference in longevity and proper seating than most anything else.
    Last edited by BajaRon; 02-07-2014 at 11:56 PM.
    Shop Ph: 423-609-7588 (M-F, 8-5, Eastern Time)

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  13. #13
    Very Active Member ulflyer's Avatar
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    Default When is it Enough?

    With 400 miles on mine now and having varied the RPM's using the gears, I'm assuming the rings are sufficiently "seated" and I can ease off the varying speeds. I know there are other elements of the motor that need mating also, but believe the rings to be the most critical part of a break in.

    Is this basically true or should I keep working the RPM's?
    Two Wheelers from 1963-2011

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  14. #14
    Banged Up Member MouthPiece's Avatar
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    Was that your "purdy" 2014 Cognac spyder I saw at Seminole Power Sports yesterday (Thursday)??? Lookin good Ron.

    Chris

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    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ulflyer View Post
    With 400 miles on mine now and having varied the RPM's using the gears, I'm assuming the rings are sufficiently "seated" and I can ease off the varying speeds. I know there are other elements of the motor that need mating also, but believe the rings to be the most critical part of a break in.

    Is this basically true or should I keep working the RPM's?
    I'd say you're right on this. Start riding it harder. Cylinder pressure is what pushes the wrings against the cylinder walls and will help finish the break-in process. I'd say you can pretty much ride it whatever way you like.

    I also think lugging a new engine (even if they are OK with it) is not a good idea. You get back into the excessive blow-by possibility when you lug a new motor. This contaminates your oil and can decrease lubrication and increase wear.
    Shop Ph: 423-609-7588 (M-F, 8-5, Eastern Time)

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  16. #16
    Active Member zbunker's Avatar
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    Default '14 Engine Break In Question

    Quote Originally Posted by spyderyderjim View Post
    http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

    I have used this method on all my many motorcycles over the years. Oil rings seal well, good compression, strong motors.
    Rolling off throttle letting de-compression slow you down is what seats the oil rings.
    Enjoy your new 1330 motor/smooth shifting trans RT!!!
    My 2014 RT-S SE6 is broke in, strong torque pulling throught the smooth shifting gears! Jim
    Thanks. Quite an interesting article that makes sense.

  17. #17
    Active Member zbunker's Avatar
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    Default '14 Engine Break In Question

    Quote Originally Posted by MouthPiece View Post
    Was that your "purdy" 2014 Cognac spyder I saw at Seminole Power Sports yesterday (Thursday)??? Lookin good Ron.

    Chris
    As a matter of fact Chris, yes And if you looked carefully around the shop, there was another Cognac Spyder that looked like it had your name on it.

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