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Does your '14 RT" wander" more than your 10,11, or 12 RT?
Rode 125 miles this afternoon, 100 of that on secondary roads and the RT definitely wanders about more than my previous '11 which had Elkas and Ronbar. Not significantly so, but enough that I expected it to at least be comparable if not better.
Swapped with a buddy who has a 12 with just the Ronbar and he agreed the '14 does wander more than his '12. I immediately noticed his '12 was more stable, exactly like my '11 was.
My question is, have any of you '14 owners who have or had previous 998's noticed this same thing? If not, then I have a small problem. Could be alignment and if that doesn't fix it, then perhaps a Ronbar will.
Would apprec any ideas you folks might have.
Two Wheelers from 1963-2011
Three Wheelers:
2011 RT(Red)
2014 RT(white)
2016 F3T(red)
2022 RT current ride(silver)
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Banged Up Member
Originally Posted by ulflyer
Rode 125 miles this afternoon, 100 of that on secondary roads and the RT definitely wanders about more than my previous '11 which had Elkas and Ronbar. Not significantly so, but enough that I expected it to at least be comparable if not better.
Swapped with a buddy who has a 12 with just the Ronbar and he agreed the '14 does wander more than his '12. I immediately noticed his '12 was more stable, exactly like my '11 was.
My question is, have any of you '14 owners who have or had previous 998's noticed this same thing? If not, then I have a small problem. Could be alignment and if that doesn't fix it, then perhaps a Ronbar will.
Would apprec any ideas you folks might have.
I believe an alignment will help. I'll even go further and say that every spyder that leaves the manufacturer needs to have the laser alignment. Of course the exception would be if you have the laser alignment performed, and they say you don't need it. (the obvious)
Chris
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Interesting that it seems like handling/wandering has been one of the hot topics since the new frame/suspension came on the scene in 13'
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Very Active Member
couple of things to check on the 14.
Air pressure in front tires especially, try 16 1/2 to 17 lbs of pressure and make sure both tires are equal. 29 + OR - 1 LB IN THE REAR
check to make sure that the (Directional) tires are on the correct side (don't laugh it happens).
my feeling is that if you come from a Spyder that had Ron Bar and Elkas and set up the way you liked it ..... the 14 will feel a little squirrely at first.
Get a Lazer Alignment, make sure they have the buds and reset the steering sensor to zero.
and if necessary take your front wheels off the Spyder and take them to a reputable local tire shop and have them check the tire balance.
The 14 is a more stable ride if all is correct
Cruzr Joe
2018 F3 Limited, BRP Driver Backrest, Spyderpops Lighted Bump Skid, Dual Spyclops Light, Mirror Turn Signals, Laser Alignment, Engine LEDs, Fog Lights With Halo's, Cushion Handgrips, BRT LEDs, and Under Lighting, Lamonster IPS, (with Clock), F4 25" Vented Windshield with Wings, Airhawk "R" Cushions. Position 4 Brake setting, Short reach Handlebars, Dash Mounted Voltmeter and 12 Volt Plug. Set of 3rd pegs. Extended Passenger Seat. Exterior BRP Connect setup, Ultimate Trailer
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Registered Users
2014 RT
I had the Laser alignment included with my deal on my 2014 RT-L. It is very smooth, no wandering. I will still have the BaJaRon Bar installed at Spyderfest.
Baja Ron Anti-sway bar
Spyder Pop's skid plate
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Active Member
Thanks Ted......
For allowing me to test ryde your 14.
Observations:
- Shifts smoothly
- Brakes greatly improved over the 12
- Shortened turn up time before start
- Cornering stability is fantastic
- Torque curve is much improved, you can accelerate in 5th gear without down shifting
I think you may want to consider your next move to be the laser alignment, that may cure the wandering situation.
2012 RT LTD Lava Bronze, Ultimate seat, backrests and fuel door. Two Brothers Titanamium. Laser Alignment, Seals Floorboards. BajaRon Sway Bar and links, Spyderpops blockoff, Grilles, Missing Belt Guard, Bumpskid, Gold Wing Windshield Vent, Kewlmetal Helmet Locks, Rumbling Pride Flag Holders, Cup holders, Signal LED's on mirrors, Baker Built belt stabilizer, gremlin bell, Bad Boy air horn, TricLed 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th taillights and fender LED strips. RT-622 trailer, ........More to come.
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Originally Posted by Cruzr Joe
couple of things to check on the 14.
Air pressure in front tires especially, try 16 1/2 to 17 lbs of pressure and make sure both tires are equal. 29 + OR - 1 LB IN THE REAR
check to make sure that the (Directional) tires are on the correct side (don't laugh it happens).
my feeling is that if you come from a Spyder that had Ron Bar and Elkas and set up the way you liked it ..... the 14 will feel a little squirrely at first.
Get a Lazer Alignment, make sure they have the buds and reset the steering sensor to zero.
and if necessary take your front wheels off the Spyder and take them to a reputable local tire shop and have them check the tire balance.
The 14 is a more stable ride if all is correct
Cruzr Joe
Good info JOe. I had about 17 1/2 in the fronts and 28 in rear but have dropped it back to 16 and 22 in the ....what i ran in my '11. Going to ride again today to see if that makes a diff. As to Laser....I had it included in my deal but put if off till I've had a chance to get used to the bike. Also, my mechanic, although trained by ROLO (I think), has not done an alignment since. I wish they had more experience but they're good mech's and will make it right, one way or the other. I did notice that one front wheel has a slew of weights and the other only one, so the fronts might need re-balancing before doing the laser. Perhaps I can get them to do that as a freebie. Will let you all know how it rides today.
As a sidebar: with my '11 I'd back out of my garage, still slightly rolling, and hit paddle for 1st and it would shift right away. Did same thing yesterday (first time I'd done a reverse with the '14) and it wouldn't go into 1st. I thought "OMG, I've got troubles already". This happened a couple times during my ride until I figured out you have to HOLD BRAKE (or come to a dead stop...not sure which) before shifting from reverse to first!
Two Wheelers from 1963-2011
Three Wheelers:
2011 RT(Red)
2014 RT(white)
2016 F3T(red)
2022 RT current ride(silver)
__________________
2016 Slingshot
2018 Vanderhall
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Plyrod38
Thanks Ted......
For allowing me to test ryde your 14.
Observations:
- Shifts smoothly
- Brakes greatly improved over the 12
- Shortened turn up time before start
- Cornering stability is fantastic
- Torque curve is much improved, you can accelerate in 5th gear without down shifting
I think you may want to consider your next move to be the laser alignment, that may cure the wandering situation.
Bill, glad you enjoyed it...that was a heck of a nice route you took me on. Bill and I just met yesterday although we've communicated by email a time or two. He's got a really pretty brown '12, set up nicely, and I was hard put to keep up with him. Either he was showing off or just in a hurry to get home cause his wife had a fresh pot of coffee waiting.
Two Wheelers from 1963-2011
Three Wheelers:
2011 RT(Red)
2014 RT(white)
2016 F3T(red)
2022 RT current ride(silver)
__________________
2016 Slingshot
2018 Vanderhall
2019 Slingshot
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Active Member
Hey Ted,
I hope you get the laser alignment done soon. I'm chomping at the bit to get my byke done, but don't want to be the first to be experimented on. Just kidding (sort of).
Thanks for the education on the M-1 carbine, you know your stuff.
Bill
2012 RT LTD Lava Bronze, Ultimate seat, backrests and fuel door. Two Brothers Titanamium. Laser Alignment, Seals Floorboards. BajaRon Sway Bar and links, Spyderpops blockoff, Grilles, Missing Belt Guard, Bumpskid, Gold Wing Windshield Vent, Kewlmetal Helmet Locks, Rumbling Pride Flag Holders, Cup holders, Signal LED's on mirrors, Baker Built belt stabilizer, gremlin bell, Bad Boy air horn, TricLed 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th taillights and fender LED strips. RT-622 trailer, ........More to come.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by ulflyer
Good info JOe. I had about 17 1/2 in the fronts and 28 in rear but have dropped it back to 16 and 22 in the ....what i ran in my '11. Going to ride again today to see if that makes a diff. As to Laser....I had it included in my deal but put if off till I've had a chance to get used to the bike. Also, my mechanic, although trained by ROLO (I think), has not done an alignment since. I wish they had more experience but they're good mech's and will make it right, one way or the other. I did notice that one front wheel has a slew of weights and the other only one, so the fronts might need re-balancing before doing the laser. Perhaps I can get them to do that as a freebie. Will let you all know how it rides today.
As a sidebar: with my '11 I'd back out of my garage, still slightly rolling, and hit paddle for 1st and it would shift right away. Did same thing yesterday (first time I'd done a reverse with the '14) and it wouldn't go into 1st. I thought "OMG, I've got troubles already". This happened a couple times during my ride until I figured out you have to HOLD BRAKE (or come to a dead stop...not sure which) before shifting from reverse to first!
22 is probably way too low for the rear.
Cruzr Joe
2018 F3 Limited, BRP Driver Backrest, Spyderpops Lighted Bump Skid, Dual Spyclops Light, Mirror Turn Signals, Laser Alignment, Engine LEDs, Fog Lights With Halo's, Cushion Handgrips, BRT LEDs, and Under Lighting, Lamonster IPS, (with Clock), F4 25" Vented Windshield with Wings, Airhawk "R" Cushions. Position 4 Brake setting, Short reach Handlebars, Dash Mounted Voltmeter and 12 Volt Plug. Set of 3rd pegs. Extended Passenger Seat. Exterior BRP Connect setup, Ultimate Trailer
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Cruzr Joe
22 is probably way too low for the rear.
Cruzr Joe
Joe, it seems to work for me, at least on my previous '11. After wearing out the OEM and then the General Altimax in the middle I graduated down to 20 which I was running the Pirelli P4. It had about 12K with lots of tread left with the center and sides worn evenly. I don't ride two up or pull a trailer, if this makes a difference.
Anyway, with 16 fronts and 22 rear I rode 75 miles yesterday with a very noticeable improvement in handling, about comparable, as best as I can remember (how quick one forgets), to the '11 .
Will have the laser done also as soon as the wx improves enough to ride to the dealer....our couple of warm days are turning cold again.
Two Wheelers from 1963-2011
Three Wheelers:
2011 RT(Red)
2014 RT(white)
2016 F3T(red)
2022 RT current ride(silver)
__________________
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2018 Vanderhall
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Motorbike Professor
Originally Posted by ulflyer
Joe, it seems to work for me, at least on my previous '11. After wearing out the OEM and then the General Altimax in the middle I graduated down to 20 which I was running the Pirelli P4. It had about 12K with lots of tread left with the center and sides worn evenly. I don't ride two up or pull a trailer, if this makes a difference.
Anyway, with 16 fronts and 22 rear I rode 75 miles yesterday with a very noticeable improvement in handling, about comparable, as best as I can remember (how quick one forgets), to the '11 .
Will have the laser done also as soon as the wx improves enough to ride to the dealer....our couple of warm days are turning cold again.
Glad it worked for you. For most owners it will not, however, because the thin carcassed tire wants to balloon at freeway speeds. If you do a lot of highway riding, you're probably going to need to crank the pressure up.
-Scotty
2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
Mutant Trikes Forever!
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Very Active Member
how it relates
i keep 19 lbs. in the fronts, provides good handling. 20 lbs. in the rear tire, provides good ride, and has greatly extended the life of the tire. i m at 12 k miles, and it's good for another season. i should get 15- 16 k out of it. i would think 22 lbs would be good on an RT, maybe a bit more 2 up. i ride solo. somebody has to live to tell the story.
it was fun while it lasted.
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Very Active Member
Lot of good info on different tire pressures, thanks
Cruzr Joe
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2018 F3 Limited, BRP Driver Backrest, Spyderpops Lighted Bump Skid, Dual Spyclops Light, Mirror Turn Signals, Laser Alignment, Engine LEDs, Fog Lights With Halo's, Cushion Handgrips, BRT LEDs, and Under Lighting, Lamonster IPS, (with Clock), F4 25" Vented Windshield with Wings, Airhawk "R" Cushions. Position 4 Brake setting, Short reach Handlebars, Dash Mounted Voltmeter and 12 Volt Plug. Set of 3rd pegs. Extended Passenger Seat. Exterior BRP Connect setup, Ultimate Trailer
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Originally Posted by coz
i keep 19 lbs. in the fronts, provides good handling. 20 lbs. in the rear tire, provides good ride, and has greatly extended the life of the tire. i m at 12 k miles, and it's good for another season. i should get 15- 16 k out of it. i would think 22 lbs would be good on an RT, maybe a bit more 2 up. i ride solo. somebody has to live to tell the story.
We run pretty much the same pressures. I'm right at 10k and a good friend is at 14k. Plenty of tire tread left all the way around.
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Registered Users
Just got the 14 RTS. Traded in my 12 RTS. The dealer had no idea what a laser alignment was. I do say,,, I put about 180 miles on the 14 and it rides like a dream. My 12 did not ride as well especially on the highway. I was riding the 14 with 2 fingers. Handles great. A little adjusting cause very sensitive to the movement.... All I had on my 12 was the bajaron bar. Gotta go out for more riding...
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my dealer
my dealer did a regular alignment on my bike w/o the laser ant there was a bud difference in the bike but i would like to get the laser done one day
NO BIKE AT THIS TIME
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Very Active Member
Got Lasered
Took mine in last week and two techs spent an hour, measuring, checking, remeasuring, etc. till they were satisfied they had everything lined up correctly. I watched all this from nearby which is always satisfying to see what goes on.
They said the fronts were toed out 3/4 inch and they toed it in slightly...forget what number...maybe 1/4?
Since then I've only been able to put many miles on; 30 coming home on smooth but curvy road and it felt better...less wandering. But then yesterday I rode about 6-8 mi on curvy uneven surface and it was all over the place. Just didn't feel as good as I think I remember my '11 handling that same road.
Another few miles on smooth interstate behind 18 wheelers and it was Steady Eddy! Since most of my riding is on relatively smooth roads, I'm happy enough for now. I'll play with the air pressure a bit more to see how that affects anything, and wait to see how the Ronbar affects the '14.
Pretty sure I'll want to get one. Will anyone be installing these at Springfield?
Two Wheelers from 1963-2011
Three Wheelers:
2011 RT(Red)
2014 RT(white)
2016 F3T(red)
2022 RT current ride(silver)
__________________
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Changing Gears From Netual to Anything- (sidebar)
Originally Posted by ulflyer
Good info JOe. I had about 17 1/2 in the fronts and 28 in rear but have dropped it back to 16 and 22 in the ....what i ran in my '11. Going to ride again today to see if that makes a diff. As to Laser....I had it included in my deal but put if off till I've had a chance to get used to the bike. Also, my mechanic, although trained by ROLO (I think), has not done an alignment since. I wish they had more experience but they're good mech's and will make it right, one way or the other. I did notice that one front wheel has a slew of weights and the other only one, so the fronts might need re-balancing before doing the laser. Perhaps I can get them to do that as a freebie. Will let you all know how it rides today.
As a sidebar: with my '11 I'd back out of my garage, still slightly rolling, and hit paddle for 1st and it would shift right away. Did same thing yesterday (first time I'd done a reverse with the '14) and it wouldn't go into 1st. I thought "OMG, I've got troubles already". This happened a couple times during my ride until I figured out you have to HOLD BRAKE (or come to a dead stop...not sure which) before shifting from reverse to first!
Yeah, me too when I tried to shift from reverse to 1st- or neutral to anything. Apparently, the brake now plays a part when changing direction
Ron
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by zbunker
Yeah, me too when I tried to shift from reverse to 1st- or neutral to anything. Apparently, the brake now plays a part when changing direction
Ron
Because it has a different clutch engagement. Hydraulic vs centrifugal is the reason for the change. In older model the clutch was not engaged at all. With lower torque band and hydraulic clutch you have a chance of it jumping much more.
2013 Mag Silver SE5 RT BahaRon Sway bar & Sway bar links, Grip Puppies, Kuryakyn Helmet locks , Ultimate Seat w/Utopia Backrest, Dash power outlet, Spyderpops BumpSkid, Swagman Cup holders, Full size Brake Pedal, Seal DLX Floorboards, Freeway Blaster horns, Sylvania Super Bright fender LEDs, Scotchlite 680 Rear & Fender Reflectors, BRP Fog Light Kit, LED Mirror turn signal strips, 2014 RT grille mod. Outlaw Laser Alignment
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Registered Users
2014 wander and 2013 wander
I just completed 500 miles on my new 2014 RTS (Got it Friday Feb 14th), and as for the wander, this one is the best for not wandering. 2011 RTS Always wandered, 2013 LTS was much better, but not great, 2014 RTS, this one is the best of 3 for less wandering.
As for cornering, I didn't think I had a problem with the 2011, but I also did know better. Got my 2013 and oh heck was it soft in the corners, got the RONBAR and it was much better. And for sure, the RONBAR is going on the 2014.
Allan
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Magdave
Because it has a different clutch engagement. Hydraulic vs centrifugal is the reason for the change. In older model the clutch was not engaged at all. With lower torque band and hydraulic clutch you have a chance of it jumping much more.
Good info. Thanks Dave.
Two Wheelers from 1963-2011
Three Wheelers:
2011 RT(Red)
2014 RT(white)
2016 F3T(red)
2022 RT current ride(silver)
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2018 Vanderhall
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Simple answer - no
I cannot say my '14 is better than my '12, but I never had a problem with my '12. And I love my '14!!
Doug Barnes
James 4:17
all on two wheels. More on four or more. Guess I may need to start multi-coloring for three wheels.
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Registered Users
Ron bar and a set of Elka's cured the handling woes of my 13 RTS. The Elka's also stopped the bottoming out but I think the 13's had issues with factory shocks.
Sold my 14 RTS went back to 2 wheels.
2014 Kawasaki Vaquero SE
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