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Thread: She won't start

  1. #1
    Invalid Emails murphybrown's Avatar
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    Default She won't start

    OK experts. Here I am with 40 and 50 degree days..no snow on roads and Ms Spyder has an "attitude" and will NOT start. Have on trickle charger...Tries to turn over but won't catch...one good try, one weak, then the digital screen goes grey and striped. Immediate strong gas smell...like it is flooding out. This is the original battery. Almost 70k . 2010 RTSE5. I am 200 miles from dealer over 2 mountain passes and no trailer.
    If this was you where would you start. I can feel a "nasty attitude" coming my way if I can't ryde.... Soooo I come to you with humble (teachable) request. EEEEKKKKK murphybrown is getting desperate to ryde. Thanks I'll try anything and everything!!!! to all you gurus..
    My Motto Is:
    Live my life in such a way that when my feet hit the floor in the morning...Satan shudders & says "Oh, crap, SHE'S awake!"

    Red Stallion: 2016 F3t SE6 (from Pitbull PowerSports/ Springfield, MO)
    White Knight: 2014 RTS SE6 and matching 622 trailer (from Pitbull
    PowerSports/ Springfield, MO)
    Ms Spydee: 2010 RT SE5



  2. #2
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    This has the smell of not enough electricity...
    The question is: Why?
    The age of the battery yields a clue... it might have given it's all, and is in need of replacement.
    Before retiring it though; I'd check the condition and tightness of the connections to it.
    Good Luck! Please let us know what happens next!
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  3. #3
    Invalid Emails murphybrown's Avatar
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    Default Bob Bob Bob you forget

    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    This has the smell of not enough electricity...
    The question is: Why?
    The age of the battery yields a clue... it might have given it's all, and is in need of replacement.
    Before retiring it though; I'd check the condition and tightness of the connections to it.
    Good Luck! Please let us know what happens next!
    Who you are dealing with...the queen of what is that? OK give me a few more hints on where and how to check the condition and tightness of the connections... thanks.
    My Motto Is:
    Live my life in such a way that when my feet hit the floor in the morning...Satan shudders & says "Oh, crap, SHE'S awake!"

    Red Stallion: 2016 F3t SE6 (from Pitbull PowerSports/ Springfield, MO)
    White Knight: 2014 RTS SE6 and matching 622 trailer (from Pitbull
    PowerSports/ Springfield, MO)
    Ms Spydee: 2010 RT SE5



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    Uh-oh...
    You need to get directly to the battery and it's connections.
    Left side; kind of underneath the left passenger grab bar.
    Lamont has posted the exact removal procedures for that surgery; I just can't find it!
    I think that if you PM him about it; he can get you pointed in the proper direction.
    Once you can actually see the battery; you'll just need to check the tightness and cleanliness of the connections.
    Then; there a about a TON of folks in here who can tell you exactly how to test the battery's actual condition.
    But I'd ask Scotty first!

    If it sounds as if I'm pushing you off to other sources; I am!
    I'm far better with theory, than I am with wrenches!
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  5. #5
    Very Active Member Cruzr Joe's Avatar
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    If it sounds as if I'm pushing you off to other sources; I am!
    I'm far better with theory, than I am with wrenches! < From Bob our Theory consultant



    Cruzr Joe
    2018 F3 Limited, BRP Driver Backrest, Spyderpops Lighted Bump Skid, Dual Spyclops Light, Mirror Turn Signals, Laser Alignment, Engine LEDs, Fog Lights With Halo's, Cushion Handgrips, BRT LEDs, and Under Lighting, Lamonster IPS, (with Clock), F4 25" Vented Windshield with Wings, Airhawk "R" Cushions. Position 4 Brake setting, Short reach Handlebars, Dash Mounted Voltmeter and 12 Volt Plug. Set of 3rd pegs. Extended Passenger Seat. Exterior BRP Connect setup, Ultimate Trailer

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    I read, and I remember...
    I turn a wrench, and I bleed!
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  7. #7
    Thinks out loud Jeriatric's Avatar
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    Arrow

    Jump start it. Ride it to the nearest dealer. Do not.....turn it off until you get there. If you need fuel. Fuel it while it is running. Do not top it off. Or if that worries you and you need fuel. Have someone follow you to the station and jump it again. jm2c


    Identify what you have control over and find peace with what you don't.

  8. #8
    Very Active Member bruiser's Avatar
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    Are you comfortable with taking panels off?

    Open seat. Disconnect gas spring, support seat. On the left side there is a battery panel, remove the two screws. You will have to disconnect the heated grips if you have them, and the passenger pillion switch. Then you will have to remove the top rear side panel. You will be able to get to the battery then.

    I suspect a bad battery. Try a full charge first. Not a trickle. If the battery is bad it won't accept a trickle charge.



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    Yup!
    That works for me too! Especially if writing the check to the dealer isn't an issue.
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  10. #10
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    Default STARTING THIS

    I am not familiar with the RT .........But if you can access any terminals ( + & - ) from under the seat ( and these don't have to be directly on the BATTERY ....check your opr.manual ) you can jump start it with a car Battery ......You won't need to have the car/trk etc. running. If you don't have a car call a neighbor .......Good luck ....Mike

  11. #11
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default STARTING THIS

    I am not familiar with the RT .........But if you can access any terminals ( + & - ) from under the seat ( and these don't have to be directly on the BATTERY ....check your opr.manual ) you can jump start it with a car Battery ......or possibly a LAWN TRACTOR BATTERY ......You won't need to have the car/trk etc. running. If you don't have a car call a neighbor .......Good luck ....Mike

  12. #12
    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default Have to agree..!!

    jump start it. If this gets you going then you will know for sure your battery is your problem. You can check for a new one locally at auto parts as well as walmart sears target etc. Unless you have a full charger you may not be able to get it back up enough to start. Checking the connections you should start at the battery then the ground connections to the frame. I'm sure you will be able to jump it. Don't know if you or someone with you can do the work but if not then best jump it and make a run for the dealer. If gas is needed make stops a gas stations with shops that can jump start you again...good luck..
    Gene and Ilana De Laney
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  13. #13
    Doc - Riverside
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    Just had the same thing happen to me. 2010 RTS SE5. Went to start it and according to the volt gauge, it went to below 8 volt before the screen died. Just replaced to battery after 4 years with a battery from Interstate Battery. The other possible cause is the battery screw or screws worked loose. This causes a big voltage drop also and will give the same indication.

  14. #14
    Invalid Emails murphybrown's Avatar
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    Default That unfortunately not an option

    Quote Originally Posted by Jerbear View Post
    Jump start it. Ride it to the nearest dealer. Do not.....turn it off until you get there. If you need fuel. Fuel it while it is running. Do not top it off. Or if that worries you and you need fuel. Have someone follow you to the station and jump it again. jm2c
    i am 200 miles to a dealer over 2 mountain passes. Will file your advise for later when I can do that. Thanks for your input I really do
    My Motto Is:
    Live my life in such a way that when my feet hit the floor in the morning...Satan shudders & says "Oh, crap, SHE'S awake!"

    Red Stallion: 2016 F3t SE6 (from Pitbull PowerSports/ Springfield, MO)
    White Knight: 2014 RTS SE6 and matching 622 trailer (from Pitbull
    PowerSports/ Springfield, MO)
    Ms Spydee: 2010 RT SE5



  15. #15
    Very Active Member Sarge707's Avatar
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    http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...f-and-on-video

    If your safe and sound at home with the problem I would do the following-
    1- Watch Lamonts video of taking RT Tupperware off a few times -Then do it on the Left side.
    2-Check and tighten battery connections- For one pole you can just lift on plastic under seat and slip a 10mm wrench in to tighten.
    3-Research online and find a appropriate battery locally.
    4-Charge and install battery and put back on Tupperware once you know it starts.

    That's what I would do in your situation.

    2015 F3 sm6, Custom Dynamics fender lights.

    Sea Doo GTI-SE 90 Jet Ski!!

  16. #16
    Very Active Member jcthorne's Avatar
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    Order a battery. UPS and FedEx deliver. Charge and install new battery. Clean cable ends while you have it apart.

    Blue Flame Spyder F3-S
    2015 F3S , Blue Flame

  17. #17
    SpyderLovers Sponsor cptjam's Avatar
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    Default Battery

    Normally, a battery is a known good for 3 years. More than that is a bonus. Less is rare, but other problems might be at work. I am thinking it is "4", and needs to be replaced. If you can do the work, remove the side covers to access the battery. Lots of torx screws, but simple to do. Then remove the cables and remove the battery hold down. Remove battery, and take to any auto parts store to load test/charge. If, after a charge, it fails to hold up to the load, it needs to be replaced. There are several new kinds of batteries out that last longer, and are more powerful. I just found one called a Mirai. Very light, very powerful, and only 20 bucks more than a AGM battery. Order online, and you can have it in a couple of days. Or, source locally at batteries plus or an auto parts store. Check all connections that go to and come from the battery. The ground is a horrible design, and difficult to tighten. If it is at all loose, it will degrade the charging system. Good luck! Call SpyderAnn01 if you have any questions on the process - I am her pit crew! Good Luck!
    Joe Meyer



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  18. #18
    Very Active Member Cruzr Joe's Avatar
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    you could move closer to someone who likes to wrench on these things.

    Cruzr Joe
    2018 F3 Limited, BRP Driver Backrest, Spyderpops Lighted Bump Skid, Dual Spyclops Light, Mirror Turn Signals, Laser Alignment, Engine LEDs, Fog Lights With Halo's, Cushion Handgrips, BRT LEDs, and Under Lighting, Lamonster IPS, (with Clock), F4 25" Vented Windshield with Wings, Airhawk "R" Cushions. Position 4 Brake setting, Short reach Handlebars, Dash Mounted Voltmeter and 12 Volt Plug. Set of 3rd pegs. Extended Passenger Seat. Exterior BRP Connect setup, Ultimate Trailer

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    Karyl, I'm crossing my fingers for you that it is just in need of a new battery. If you have any friends or neighbors who are good with cars they could help you with a battery check or install. Don't need to be a Spyder mechanic to work on the battery.
    2017 F3T-SM6 Squared Away Mirror Wedgies & Alignment
    2014 RTS-SM6 123,600 miles Sold 11/2017
    2014 RTL-SE6 8,600 miles
    2011 RTS-SM5 5,000 miles
    2013 RTS-SM5 burned up with 13,200 miles in 13 weeks
    2010 RTS-SM5 59,148 miles
    2010 RT- 622

  20. #20
    Very Active Member Bootie's Avatar
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    Default Won't Start

    BAD BATTERY. BRP has a new heavy-duty battery that I had installed at Spyderfest last year on my RT. No battery problems since.
    If you jump start, make sure the car is turned OFF. Otherwise the voltage regulators will fight each other.
    My 2010RT has 70,000miles on it and I am on my third battery.
    My $0.02

    Bootie-The Grievous Angel
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  21. #21
    Very Active Member bscrive's Avatar
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    It does sound like your battery has bit the dust. You should be able to turn it over several times with out any problems. Just do not leave the starter on for more than 10 seconds or you could burn it out.

    Also, try not to turn the key off and on too many times or you will get gas in the oil and then you will have to change the oil to get it started. If you have too much gas in the oil, the engine will stay flooded and it will not start.

    If you have a warmer area that you could bring the bike into, that would help. The big problem here is that the colder a battery is the less power it has to turn the bike over.

    You only need 3 things for an engine to run. Spark, compression and gas. We know you are getting gas, by the smell. I don't think your engine is bad so you must have compression so the only thing you are lacking is spark which comes from the battery. If your battery cannot deliver enough power to turn the bike over and deliver enough to the coils then it won't start.

    It may help if you can take the plugs out and dry them off, crank the engine over a couple of times to get rid of any gas in the cylinders and then replace the plugs. Just hold the throttle at full so gas is not put back in the cylinders when the plugs are out and you hit the starter.

    Brian
    Last edited by bscrive; 01-15-2014 at 01:46 PM.

  22. #22
    Active Member Noral's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by murphybrown View Post
    OK experts. Here I am with 40 and 50 degree days..no snow on roads and Ms Spyder has an "attitude" and will NOT start. Have on trickle charger...Tries to turn over but won't catch...one good try, one weak, then the digital screen goes grey and striped. Immediate strong gas smell...like it is flooding out. This is the original battery. Almost 70k . 2010 RTSE5. I am 200 miles from dealer over 2 mountain passes and no trailer.
    If this was you where would you start. I can feel a "nasty attitude" coming my way if I can't ryde.... Soooo I come to you with humble (teachable) request. EEEEKKKKK murphybrown is getting desperate to ryde. Thanks I'll try anything and everything!!!! to all you gurus..


    If you might need a battery their is an interstate battery place in Chelan,Wa


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    Mill Bay Marine & Rv
    2245 Sr 150
    Chelan, WA 98816
    (509) 687-2628
    Open Saturday: No
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    Distance: 1.69 Miles

  23. #23
    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
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    Wow, it turns over and won't start until eventually the battery goes dead. Now somehow that's the battery's fault. Come on people, really!!!!

    Charge the battery up or hook up booster cables. Do a wide open throttle start procedure (WOT). Hold the throttle wide open then press the start button and let it crank for 30 seconds max. If it did not start wait 1 minute to let the starter cool and then do it again, max three times. If it still did not start then try a normal start. The WOT procedure turns the fuel injectors off helping to clear a flooded engine of fuel.

    Good Luck.

    2018 F3 LIMITED

  24. #24
    Very Active Member bscrive's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by billybovine View Post
    Wow, it turns over and won't start until eventually the battery goes dead. Now somehow that's the battery's fault. Come on people, really!!!!

    Charge the battery up or hook up booster cables. Do a wide open throttle start procedure (WOT). Hold the throttle wide open then press the start button and let it crank for 30 seconds max. If it did not start wait 1 minute to let the starter cool and then do it again, max three times. If it still did not start then try a normal start. The WOT procedure turns the fuel injectors off helping to clear a flooded engine of fuel.

    Good Luck.
    Billy,

    Murphy said that he only gets one good cranking, a week one and then nothing. To me, unless he is cranking the engine for a minute, that is a battery problem.

  25. #25
    Very Active Member wyliec's Avatar
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    I think billybovine has a good idea and doesn't require taking the spyder a part. If it doesn't work, no foul.

    Something similar happened to my gf's car. I did what billybovine suggests and it started. Will it work in this case? It won't hurt.

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