A question for Over-Heated Riders

[Magdave]

These links don't go to specific parts. I've sesn people post these links before....they get you to the general area....and I appreciate that...but what exact part numbers do I need to make this work?

In the link it says four panels, but which four panels for a ST-S?

Read the first thread Lamont shows the one and the part numbers are mentioned later in it.

[SNOOPY]

Lamont only says part number 479 and 480.....everyone else mentions 4 parts?

And no one says if that is for an RT or an ST ?

Confusing

[SNOOPY]

Read the first thread Lamont shows the one and the part numbers are mentioned later in it.

oops, just saw you're pic, that may help thanks!

[Magdave]

Lamont only says part number 479 and 480.....everyone else mentions 4 parts?

And no one says if that is for an RT or an ST ?

Confusing

If you keep reading 422 and the opposite is needed too( I think) You will have to drill down on the parts link I gave you the below is for STL check Body and acc. Best bet is to go to a dealer.

[SNOOPY]

dealer?



LOL


.

[SNOOPY]

If you keep reading 422 and the opposite is needed too( I think) You will have to drill down on the parts link I gave you the below is for STL check Body and acc. Best bet is to go to a dealer.

Do we know that these parts will actually bolt in place...or just guessing????



.

[Magdave]

dealer?



LOL


.

That will make you hair stand up? Look at all those parts I can't tell heads or tails. Glad the RT is simpler

[BajaRon]

I've done more looking at this product and it appears to be quite viable.

There is mention that the thermostat turns the fan on at about 225 and off at about 215 degrees. The thing is, some Spyders, in hot weather, continue to get hotter even with the fan running.

Some have put a switch in line so they can turn their fan on manually. If you're sitting in stop and go traffic on a hot day, why wait for the engine to get to 225 degrees?

Of course, a down side to this would be drawing that much current with the engine at idle you're running a negative charging factor. If you do this a lot you'd need to put a volt meter in the system to be sure you're not running the system below 12 volts.

Bottom line is, I like the looks of this product. If it really runs that much cooler than Engine Ice and Redline, that could be a real plus. Not only for those with heating issues but for anyone that wants a better cooling system. I'd say the very worst that you would see is no change at all.

I have not been able to confirm that it is Silicate free. But I'm almost positive that it will be since virtually all motorcycles, and many automobiles, now require silicate free antifreeze.

Note; Definitely pull the lower radiator hose. DO NOT mess with the drain plug. You'll be sorry....

[Magdave]

Note; Definitely pull the lower radiator hose. DO NOT mess with the drain plug. You'll be sorry....

And the product does look very interesting I think it will run cooler on the highway but not sure it will help much in stop and go traffic. If we had the 2014 alternator charge would not be an issue. I just do not get why BRP would use a drain plug that is so substandard and prevents us from doing what is suggested for a fluid change without ruining the radiator. I hope everyone now believes me when I ( and Cuznjohn) said pull the hose to drain it. I am not totally stupid Use to be (in the Corvette world) a place to put a bi metallic switch in the block that would turn the fan on/off at a lower temp. Too bad the same is not true on the Rotax. Since I have a cig plug in my dash I do have a volt meter that plugs into it so I may be up for a try at doing this next summer.

[BajaRon]

And the product does look very interesting I think it will run cooler on the highway but not sure it will help much in stop and go traffic.

Any increase in heat transfer from the coolant to the radiator fins will help in every situation except where there is no air moving through the radiator. But there is more to it than that. You will also get a better heat transfer from the hot metal engine parts to the coolant. Typical antifreeze inhibits heat transfer at both ends of the cooling process.

If we had the 2014 alternator charge would not be an issue.

Probably true. But you're only going to have issues with the current charging system in extreme cases as it is. I just mentioned it so people would be aware of the possibility.

I just do not get why BRP would use a drain plug that is so substandard and prevents us from doing what is suggested for a fluid change without ruining the radiator.

It is possible that you can pull your drain plug without creating a problem. But you won't know until it's too late and it is an unnecessary risk. Even if the drain plug were not a potential disaster, the lower hose is a better option. You get a much better flow out of the hose giving you a better flush.

My question is, why doesn't BRP simply eliminate the drain plug and change the manual to say 'Disconnect the lower drain hose'.

I hope everyone now believes me when I ( and Cuznjohn) said pull the hose to drain it.

I think people believed both of you. Your advise certainly does not need my endorsement to be believed...

Use to be (in the Corvette world) a place to put a bi metallic switch in the block that would turn the fan on/off at a lower temp. Too bad the same is not true on the Rotax.

There are plenty of aftermarket offerings that would do the job. This is an adjustable temperature (from 150-240), radiator probe kit. (About $45.00). My suggestion would be to have the unit shut off at 200~205 degrees. The 'On/Off' interval us usually fixed at 10~15 degrees spread. You want to keep the lower end somewhat above full flow on the thermostat. Setting it lower will do you no good and simply wear out your fans and draw needless current. The Spyder is designed to run at temperatures over 200 degrees without a problem.

Since I have a cig plug in my dash I do have a volt meter that plugs into it so I may be up for a try at doing this next summer.

Let us know how it goes.

[Bob Denman]

I wonder if it works for hot flashes!

Ann,
Chocolate and rum seem to help... and tell Joe to stay out in the garage!


...LOTS of Rum...

[Cruzr Joe]

Dogs can't read directions anyway.

Cruzr Joe


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[SNOOPY]

Dogs can't read directions anyway.

Cruzr Joe


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Good point.

[Bob Denman]

Bill
Go to a delaer that has a 2014 ST in the showroom...
Take careful notes of how those parts hook together...
It should be so easy; that a DAWG could do it!
And that's no Bull!

[docdoru]

Since I have a cig plug in my dash I do have a volt meter that plugs into it so I may be up for a try at doing this next summer.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Digit-Red-...item5af8dda930

[SNOOPY]

Bill
Go to a delaer that has a 2014 ST in the showroom...
Take careful notes of how those parts hook together...
It should be so easy; that a DAWG could do it!
And that's no Bull!

In Virginia?


.

[Bob Denman]

So go to Maryland... Delaware... North Carolina... Shoot; you could even find a dealer in Pennsylvania if you were in a bit of a mood to travel!

[3 Wheel Addict]

Are the 2013 overheating or hot to ride? I thought it was the latter.

Exactly, my bike is not overheating as far as engine temp goes, but the heat under the plastic is just unreal. Was just checking with my dealer on Friday to see if they have heard about a fix coming down the pike. While they have not heard of a fix they did finally fess up that they have several more bikes out with similar complaints, they are also perplexed as to why some and not others...

[SNOOPY]

So go to Maryland... Delaware... North Carolina... Shoot; you could even find a dealer in Pennsylvania if you were in a bit of a mood to travel!

Im not allowed to leave the city w my ankle bracelet.

[MikeinGA]

I am currently running a 70/30 mix with Water Wetter. It dropped me some but I'm always looking for better. I don't see any downside at this point.

Water Wetter works for me here in the N.E. Georgia mountains year round. You must be careful that in cooler to cold temps. that the engine does not run to cool, everything has it's operating temp. If you go lower than that it can cause engine problems and other problems with the engine computer mapping. That's IMHO.


Mike

[Marker]

Have you tried this? Though I have not had heating issues I may give it a run after a bit more research. The chart does not compare this product to standard anti-freeze/coolant. But you'd assume it would be higher than any of the tested products. Then again, you know what ASSUME(ing) will get you!

An important item that is always a question with high performance coolant products is boil-over and freeze protection. This one has very good numbers in that respect also.

• Note: Boiling point protection up to 260°F (126.6°C); freezing point protection down to -30°F (-34°C).

I am not promoting or even recommending this product because I have not tried it myself. But it does look very interesting.

Living in the Great White North, I would be concerned with the freeze protection rating .

[Bob Denman]

Im not allowed to leave the city w my ankle bracelet.

That "invisible fence" has you in it's clutches??

[SNOOPY]

[Bob Ledford]

I wonder if it works for hot flashes!

Ann

if find a cure for hot flash's let us know my significant other has been bugged since 1990!!!!

[SNOOPY]

Maybe some muscle will help the hot flashes?







lol