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Ok guys her is the results of todays findindings Had batery charger on all night. full tank of gas and oil is reg on stick. NO CODES
Followed the directions to retrive codes and " NONE " just a blank screen !
turned key on and no limp modes and yes it made me use mode as always. YEA/With my fingers crossed i hit the start and it barly started and died instantly even for that split second it did not sound good ( i think motor ) this is going to suck ass with only 4123 miles does any one know if ( CAN AM / BRP COVER THE ENGINE UNDER WARRENTY) well i think it is time to take it to dealer as much as i hate to say.got it loaded in trailer now
BUT
If any one can give me any more advise im game to try . I was going to break out the tools and start looking for something ovious but was afriad that when it goes to dealer they might have a **** fit that i started taking things apart.
thanks chris
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Motorbike Professor
Originally Posted by funco4all
Ok guys her is the results of todays findindings Had batery charger on all night. full tank of gas and oil is reg on stick. NO CODES
Followed the directions to retrive codes and " NONE " just a blank screen !
turned key on and no limp modes and yes it made me use mode as always. YEA/With my fingers crossed i hit the start and it barly started and died instantly even for that split second it did not sound good ( i think motor ) this is going to suck ass with only 4123 miles does any one know if ( CAN AM / BRP COVER THE ENGINE UNDER WARRENTY) well i think it is time to take it to dealer as much as i hate to say.got it loaded in trailer now
BUT
If any one can give me any more advise im game to try . I was going to break out the tools and start looking for something ovious but was afriad that when it goes to dealer they might have a **** fit that i started taking things apart.
thanks chris
First, you can only retrieve active codes. There are very few without the engine running or the problem actively happening, so it is no surprise that you saw none. It probably does rule out a throttle body or something else persistent, however. Your dealer can pull up the past codes and their sequence with BUDS, to try to determine what is wrong.
I would highly recommend that you check your battery connections (at the battery itself and not at the jump start terminals) for tightness and lack of corrosion, before proceeding further. I would also check the battery voltage in a couple of tests with a multimeter. A multimeter can be obtained inexpensively if you don't have one. A good battery should read 13 or better right after charging, although 12.7 up is acceptable. After sitting overnight or at least for several hours after removing from the charger, it should show 12.6 or above. You can also do a crude load test. The battery should read 10.0 or better while cranking with the throttle held wide open (to prevent starting).
Because you said you had just filled with gas, the gas is still the primary suspect. Bad gas or water in the gas will do this readily. Your symptms are classic for bad gas. As I said above, siphon out as much gas as you can (if you can), add Marine Stabil, Seafoam, or Startron, and fill with fresh, name brand gas. It may take numerous tries before the fuel system cleans out enough to keep running. If it does start and run, run out that tank of gas and then repeat the procedure with the stabilizer/drier and good gas.
If these are not successful, have the Spyder towed to a dealer. In about 90% of the cases like this the battery, battery connections, or the fuel supply are at fault, however.
-Scotty
2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
Mutant Trikes Forever!
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Very Active Member
Sounds like a weak spark condition, like a loose or corroded battery connection somewhere.
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Very Active Member
USAF '69-'89 E7
Thailand/Vietnam 1972
Member: Royal Order of Rat Bastards
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Thanks for the feed back i will put it back on lift in grage and try that and see.
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Very Active Member
Another suggestion...don't be afraid of the Spyder. Keep trying to start it until the battery gives out. If it's the TB it will start after a time. I had a bad TB and rode it for 6 months and about 4,000 miles before I had it changed. If it starts, then dies, start again until it starts correctly. The first few seconds it runs, it will surge and act crazy, then die. Eventually the TB will set right and you are good to go. Another possibility is a leaking vacuum line and that's a pistol to find. I have had both these issues and never stopped riding.
2008 GS SE5 in 2008
Traded at 43,000 miles for a left over
2010 RT SM5 in 2011
Traded at 57,000 for a left over
2014 RTS SE6 in 2015, which has 35,000 miles
Oct 19th, 2017, totaled 2014 RT while killing a Javaline
Dec 12th, 2017 drove a 2017 F3L home. What an awesome machine!
Never had any breakdown stranded issues.
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Very Active Member
Bad Gas
Sound to me that it may be a case that you got some bad gas with water in it. It happened to me once with another bike after a long ride and before I got home I always fill the tank with gas. I almost didn't make it home because it was cutting out and back firing all the way home. I went back the the station that I got the gas from and the manager said that the attendent at the time was suppose to turn the pumps off whenever they are getting a tank load of gas as it will stir up the water that has settled in the under ground tank. I hope this is your problem and its a easy fix to drain the tank as stated above. I would also replace the fuel filter. Keep us informed on your problem.
2017 F3 Limited in Intense Red Pearl
2008 Triumph Rocket (SOLD)
2002 Honda VTX 1800 C ( SOLD)
2014 Triumph Thunderbird Commander
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UP date i took all the plastic off and drained all gas and recharged battery ( had 12 .3 befor i put charger on ) checked all battery conections and looked over motor for any thing ovious.put new gas in and pushed the botton Same results. So off to dealer gave them the wole storey and the made coments like has oil screen been removed ? ??? bets me was my anwser and then they tried to start it and quickly said not good / well here goes $320.00 for them to look at it and i have half of the bike apart.If their is any good news they said they have never seen a motor go bad. Time for all of us to start preying.they said it will be a week before they will let me know what they find i will keep everyone posted. have a safe NEW year to all and thanks for all the advice.
chris
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by funco4all
UP date i took all the plastic off and drained all gas and recharged battery ( had 12 .3 befor i put charger on ) checked all battery conections and looked over motor for any thing ovious.put new gas in and pushed the botton Same results. So off to dealer gave them the wole storey and the made coments like has oil screen been removed ? ??? bets me was my anwser and then they tried to start it and quickly said not good / well here goes $320.00 for them to look at it and i have half of the bike apart.If their is any good news they said they have never seen a motor go bad. Time for all of us to start preying.they said it will be a week before they will let me know what they find i will keep everyone posted. have a safe NEW year to all and thanks for all the advice.
chris
I put money its either the throttle body sensor (dirty, defective) or the throttle body itself. Good luck!!!
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Very Active Member
They could have hooked up the laptop and gotten a code in less than 10 minutes and they charged you $320 for doing absolutely NOTHING! RUN!
2008 GS SE5 in 2008
Traded at 43,000 miles for a left over
2010 RT SM5 in 2011
Traded at 57,000 for a left over
2014 RTS SE6 in 2015, which has 35,000 miles
Oct 19th, 2017, totaled 2014 RT while killing a Javaline
Dec 12th, 2017 drove a 2017 F3L home. What an awesome machine!
Never had any breakdown stranded issues.
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Motorbike Professor
Originally Posted by Dudley
They could have hooked up the laptop and gotten a code in less than 10 minutes and they charged you $320 for doing absolutely NOTHING! RUN!
In this case I certainly have to agree. Diagnostics not involving a teardown should not cost more than an hour's labor...andf that is a stretch but a fairly typical rate. If the engine has to be torn down, the ante would go up, but they should explain that after the initial BUDS check and inspection.
-Scotty
2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
Mutant Trikes Forever!
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Very Active Member
Not to invade the thread, but what makes the throttle bodys bad? Too tight a clearance making codes be thrown?
I had a throttle body I paid a $1000 for before go bad and they took it back, cleaned it up, reduced the clearances and it's been good for years now.
(not on a motorcycle to be clear)
Wondering if it's that type of problem?
.
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more info
Originally Posted by SNOOPY
Thanks
Hi Snoopy. I am a new spyder owner RT-S se5. Please help me understand about all the mods you listed and do you have a heat issue also. Thanks a bunch. Ted.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by funco4all
UP date i took all the plastic off and drained all gas and recharged battery ( had 12 .3 befor i put charger on ) checked all battery conections and looked over motor for any thing ovious.put new gas in and pushed the botton Same results. So off to dealer gave them the wole storey and the made coments like has oil screen been removed ? ??? bets me was my anwser and then they tried to start it and quickly said not good / well here goes $320.00 for them to look at it and i have half of the bike apart.If their is any good news they said they have never seen a motor go bad. Time for all of us to start preying.they said it will be a week before they will let me know what they find i will keep everyone posted. have a safe NEW year to all and thanks for all the advice.
chris
How did it turn out Chris?
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by tedlmac
Hi Snoopy. I am a new spyder owner RT-S se5. Please help me understand about all the mods you listed and do you have a heat issue also. Thanks a bunch. Ted.
I need to update my list.
I got my bike in August and have had no real heat issue IMO.
Ive never owned a bike before either so I'm assuming the little bit of heat I feel is normal and maybe that is what others are calling hot.
I added heat/sound insulation to both sides just to make sure that once it gets hot out I don't have the problems others speak of. I also wrapped my exhaust pipes best I could to reduce noise and under plastic heat.
As far as other mods, I added the 12v outlet for convenience, though don't know if I'd ever need it, also hard wired the connector for a battery tender. Best bike mod so far has been the Bajaron sway bar which makes a noticeable difference in/out of corners. Hope to upgrade the shocks also in the future if I find a deal lol
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Shut down
I had same problem. Some module to do with ABS system. It was replaced no problem with that since then. 2012 4000 miles now it's in the shop with a leaking water pump. Maybe I should have bought a TRI GLIDE.
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UP date Guys
Here is where im at it semes the shop i took bike to let the bike sit for 2 weeks (You know it was the holidays) and then decided to check it out and their anwser was no codes on computer and no signs of any failures.Yep it is Broke. (not sure if that is god or bad for me ) but i did call brp and let them know of the problem and they were surprizeinly concerned and said they would work with shop. and that motor had its own warrantee.YEA.well after 3 more week and no call i contacted shop to see what was going on (ready for this Nothing ) they need instructions from brp for proper teardown.oh and some one to aprove costs. (line of **** if you ask me ) so i went to shop to see what realy is the isue and it is they are too bussy and cant free up 2 techs ( are you serious i said ) yep he tried to tell me it take two tecks to do the tear down due to how compact the bike is. Can it get any better then this. Well i called Brp to see if they have herd anything and they said NO im starting to get pissed now so i asked if i could take it to a different shop? yes only if i want to pay another 320 evaluation prior to tear down and they wont pay that back.so i left it their and will continue to wait and see but at least with my complaint I have been assigned to a BRP supervisor who hopefuly will kick some ass and maybe i will get to ride befor next year.
Chris
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Active Member
Wow!!! That is a sad story.
2014 RTS SE6 White
BajaRon Swaybar
Elka front shocks supplied by Pitbull Power sports.
Aligned By Squared Away
Smooth Spyder belt tensioner
Sprderpops Bump skid
BRP TRI AXSIS Handle bars
Luggage rack
2013 STS SE5 Circuit Yellow. The Jenny Mobile!
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Nils888
Wow!!! That is a sad story.
Wow, after this gets fixed, I would find a new dealer.
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Very Active Member
Sorry if i missed it, Who is this dealer and where are they??
Cruzr Joe
2018 F3 Limited, BRP Driver Backrest, Spyderpops Lighted Bump Skid, Dual Spyclops Light, Mirror Turn Signals, Laser Alignment, Engine LEDs, Fog Lights With Halo's, Cushion Handgrips, BRT LEDs, and Under Lighting, Lamonster IPS, (with Clock), F4 25" Vented Windshield with Wings, Airhawk "R" Cushions. Position 4 Brake setting, Short reach Handlebars, Dash Mounted Voltmeter and 12 Volt Plug. Set of 3rd pegs. Extended Passenger Seat. Exterior BRP Connect setup, Ultimate Trailer
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time to look into
LEMON LAW if your state has it for bikes. just on time lost you are a winner
NO BIKE AT THIS TIME
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California...
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RT Shop Talk
bike shut down while riding and not go into limp mode.and now have engine noise.
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