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  1. #1
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    Default Need a hand, electrical system is dead.

    Last time I rode, I came home on fumes. It sat a few months. Next time I tried to start it, starter cranked but it didn't fire. So I put in a splash of gas. Tried it again got a limp mode warning then a pop sound. Now nothing. Battery is a few months old and I checked all accessible fuses. All appear good. Where to go from here.

  2. #2
    Very Active Member otter28169's Avatar
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    I wish there was a way I could help more, but I am not mechanically gifted. My reply will, however, keep your post up here so one of our more technically savy members can help out. Good look, and I will be watching and learning.

    Just sayin'............
    Three in the garage, and I think I can fit at least one more in.....and then we will have to build another garage.
    The roads in NY are so bad that I am glad we bought a Ryker Rally

    Just sayin'............

  3. #3
    Very Active Member captblack's Avatar
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    Hey, I haven't seen you on here for a while - hope life is good out there.

    Sounds like a voltage issue. Check voltage at the battery posts. I don't think the computer will play with less than 11.8 or so. You might try a slow charge and see what happens. Mine died a few weeks ago and I had ridden it just a week before. Battery would not hold a charge and only read 6.2 volts, even after charging all night.

    If the voltage is good, check all the fuses in the frunk and the relays under the seat as well. I hope you find out it is something simple.
    Bill
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  4. #4
    Very Active Member bruiser's Avatar
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    When you turn the key on do you get anything at all? Does the screen light up? If not, check the voltage at the battery. Anything less than 12 volts won't work. If all voltages are good and connections tight, check main fuse. I suspect you have a bad/weak battery. Make sure too that you have enough fuel for the pump to pick it up. A splash in an empty tank may not be enough.



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  5. #5
    Very Active Member Magdave's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lifeisadaydream View Post
    Last time I rode, I came home on fumes. It sat a few months. Next time I tried to start it, starter cranked but it didn't fire. So I put in a splash of gas. Tried it again got a limp mode warning then a pop sound. Now nothing. Battery is a few months old and I checked all accessible fuses. All appear good. Where to go from here.
    Not good without a battery tender. If you plan on a long ride jump it and see if it starts then put a battery tender on it if you plan on leaving it set. You did not say what you have but RT's eat batteries setting for more than a couple of weeks.
    2013 Mag Silver SE5 RT BahaRon Sway bar & Sway bar links, Grip Puppies, Kuryakyn Helmet locks , Ultimate Seat w/Utopia Backrest, Dash power outlet, Spyderpops BumpSkid, Swagman Cup holders, Full size Brake Pedal, Seal DLX Floorboards, Freeway Blaster horns, Sylvania Super Bright fender LEDs, Scotchlite 680 Rear & Fender Reflectors, BRP Fog Light Kit, LED Mirror turn signal strips, 2014 RT grille mod. Outlaw Laser Alignment




  6. #6
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    I think it is a low battery. I Had an old trickle charger on over night but I guess it's time to chuck that one. Put my new charger on for a few minutes and I have power now. I'll leave it an hour or two n see. Thanks everyone. This is such a great bunch of people.

  7. #7
    Very Active Member Magdave's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lifeisadaydream View Post
    I think it is a low battery. I Had an old trickle charger on over night but I guess it's time to chuck that one. Put my new charger on for a few minutes and I have power now. I'll leave it an hour or two n see. Thanks everyone. This is such a great bunch of people.
    A trickle won't do much besides maintaining a charge. Good idea to go with more uumph.
    2013 Mag Silver SE5 RT BahaRon Sway bar & Sway bar links, Grip Puppies, Kuryakyn Helmet locks , Ultimate Seat w/Utopia Backrest, Dash power outlet, Spyderpops BumpSkid, Swagman Cup holders, Full size Brake Pedal, Seal DLX Floorboards, Freeway Blaster horns, Sylvania Super Bright fender LEDs, Scotchlite 680 Rear & Fender Reflectors, BRP Fog Light Kit, LED Mirror turn signal strips, 2014 RT grille mod. Outlaw Laser Alignment




  8. #8
    Motorbike Professor NancysToy's Avatar
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    You need three things for an engine to run...spark, fuel, and air. After long storage any of these could be at fault. The starter cranks, so if the display reads normally, the elecric end of it is probably OK. If you have a multimeter you can do some tests. If you open the throttle all the way to prevent starting and crank the starter, the battery voltage should remain at 10 volts or more. Charge the battery and then check the voltage after the charger is removed. A good battery will read 13 or more volts fresh off the charger. Anything 12.7 volts or higher is acceptable. Check again after letting things sit for several hours to overnight. The voltage should remain above 12.6. You may also wish to check the battery connections (inside the body, not the jump start connections under the seat) to be sure they are clean and tight.

    I worry about you letting the tanks sit dry for that long. Bad things happen in storage if there is any gas at all left in the tank. Moisture will condense and can be pulled into the fuel system and block it. A "splash" of gas won't help. Add a full tank (or at least half) of fuel stabilized with a moisture remover. Marine Stabil or Seafoam would be good. Try again after adding the fuel. You may have to crank a while to get any water in the system absorbed. The stabilizer will help in lengthy storage...and a full tank will limit further condensation. You may just have had insufficient fuel despite the "splash". Adding a half to full tank will cure that, too.

    In storage mice can wreak havoc with a vehicle. Examine the air intake and air filter for mouse nests. These will block the air and prevent starting.

    If nothing works, you may also have spark plug or plug wire problems, chewed wires, or other ills. You will have to troubleshoot and chase them or have the Spyder towed to a dealer who can. Wishing you luck.....
    -Scotty
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  9. #9
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    In the end it was a bad 4 month old battery. And as an aside, don't buy motorcycle batteries from Auto Zone they only have a 90 day warranty. That lesson cost me a C note.

  10. #10
    Very Active Member Magdave's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lifeisadaydream View Post
    In the end it was a bad 4 month old battery. And as an aside, don't buy motorcycle batteries from Auto Zone they only have a 90 day warranty. That lesson cost me a C note.
    You definitely kill them if they go totally dead. Glad you found the problem
    2013 Mag Silver SE5 RT BahaRon Sway bar & Sway bar links, Grip Puppies, Kuryakyn Helmet locks , Ultimate Seat w/Utopia Backrest, Dash power outlet, Spyderpops BumpSkid, Swagman Cup holders, Full size Brake Pedal, Seal DLX Floorboards, Freeway Blaster horns, Sylvania Super Bright fender LEDs, Scotchlite 680 Rear & Fender Reflectors, BRP Fog Light Kit, LED Mirror turn signal strips, 2014 RT grille mod. Outlaw Laser Alignment




  11. #11
    Very Active Member Wiredux's Avatar
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    Glad you found out problem.

  12. #12
    Very Active Member captblack's Avatar
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    Glad you found the problem. Get a good maintainer (different than a trickle charger) and keep it on there when are not riding. Fill your tank and add some Startron or Stabel to deal with the alcohol in the gas.
    Bill
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by NancysToy View Post
    You need three things for an engine to run...spark, fuel, and air. After long storage any of these could be at fault. The starter cranks, so if the display reads normally, the elecric end of it is probably OK. If you have a multimeter you can do some tests. If you open the throttle all the way to prevent starting and crank the starter, the battery voltage should remain at 10 volts or more. Charge the battery and then check the voltage after the charger is removed. A good battery will read 13 or more volts fresh off the charger. Anything 12.7 volts or higher is acceptable. Check again after letting things sit for several hours to overnight. The voltage should remain above 12.6. You may also wish to check the battery connections (inside the body, not the jump start connections under the seat) to be sure they are clean and tight.

    I worry about you letting the tanks sit dry for that long. Bad things happen in storage if there is any gas at all left in the tank. Moisture will condense and can be pulled into the fuel system and block it. A "splash" of gas won't help. Add a full tank (or at least half) of fuel stabilized with a moisture remover. Marine Stabil or Seafoam would be good. Try again after adding the fuel. You may have to crank a while to get any water in the system absorbed. The stabilizer will help in lengthy storage...and a full tank will limit further condensation. You may just have had insufficient fuel despite the "splash". Adding a half to full tank will cure that, too.

    In storage mice can wreak havoc with a vehicle. Examine the air intake and air filter for mouse nests. These will block the air and prevent starting.

    If nothing works, you may also have spark plug or plug wire problems, chewed wires, or other ills. You will have to troubleshoot and chase them or have the Spyder towed to a dealer who can. Wishing you luck.....
    This is the best post for anybody with or without issues on any ride. Thank a mil.
    2012 Spyder RT SE5 Brake pedal mod

  14. #14
    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    If you don't go better stay with OEM have found those off brands will not last and in the end you pay the same or more than staying with the brand it came with....

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