Making the 2013 Spyder RT-S "Perfect"

[cuznjohn]

The next step was to remove the right handlebar cover and route the brake line. Routing the line took some time. I ran it through the main wire bundle and it took a bit of maneuvering to get it through.



This picture shows the new ISCI mounting bracket attached to the throttle clamp.



The next step was to put the handlebar cover back on, mount the front brake, attach the brake line and bleed the brake.



Here is a top view of the finished product. It gives a good visual of how the brake mounts to the handlebar bracket.



It is pretty neat to see how this was engineered. The front brake simply actuates the braking system at the rear brake. When you pull in the front brake, the rear brake pedal depresses as well. The hardest part of the installation was getting the 4 screws for the handlebar cover back in. It took me 30 minutes and a lot of patience.

Overall, I am very impressed with the quality of the ISCI front hand brake. It is expensive, but after seeing how well it was built and seeing it actually work makes it all worth it.

i have the hand brake also, did you have a problem bleeding it. i had a bear of a time getting all the air out of it

[Bob Denman]

Thanks for the great pictures!
I'm gonna speed-dial you, if I ever get the opportunity to add one of these setups to my bike!

[stewartj239]

i have the hand brake also, did you have a problem bleeding it. i had a bear of a time getting all the air out of it

No problem at all. I used a brake bleeder to do it. I just filled the master cylinder with fluid, attached the brake bleeder to the slave cylinder down at the bracket and let it draw the fluid through the line. It only takes a few minutes.

[stewartj239]

Thanks for the great pictures!
I'm gonna speed-dial you, if I ever get the opportunity to add one of these setups to my bike!

Feel free to if you ever need help. I'm hoping that my posts are detailed enough to get others through the job or at least give them enough information to get them started.

[Bob Denman]

Don't worry...
They have!

[stewartj239]

Today I got the SmoothSpyder belt tensioner installed. The picture on the left shows what it looks like when you take it out of the box. If you pull down on it as you see it, there is upward tension which had me confused as to how it should be oriented. I realized that you have to loosen the tensioner bolt in the middle and extend it as seen in the second picture. Once I did that, the upward tension was reversed which is how it is supposed to go on the bike.

Belt Tensioner - 1.jpg Belt Tensioner - 2.jpg

The 2013 RT tensioner is awesome because there is no drilling. It bolts directly to frame just inside of the left frame rail. Installation was very simple.

Belt Tensioner - 3.jpg

Here is a picture taken from under the right side of the bike showing the inside of the tensioner. With the recommended tension set (10-12 lbs.), you can see the upward pressure it puts on the belt. One thing to note is that you need to trim the belt guard in order for the tensioner to clear. Behind the tensioner, you can see how I trimmed mine. I used cutters and a dremel and just cut it straight. It looks fine because from the left side of the bike, this part of the guard is hidden behind foot peg / footboard assembly.

Belt Tensioner - 4.jpg

This part too seems be of high quality. It is pretty heavy and just feels very well built. I did have belt vibration under certain conditions, so I hope this takes care of it.

[stewartj239]

I learned something new about the Spyder today. I noticed that on the left front corner of the bike, there are battery posts. After looking it up in the manual, you can indeed hook up a battery tender to it and that is exactly what I did. Once I get the frunk back on, I'll just hide the pigtails in there which will make it much easier for charging the battery.

Battery Tender.jpg

[spacetiger]

Today I got the SmoothSpyder belt tensioner installed. The picture on the left shows what it looks like when you take it out of the box. If you pull down on it as you see it, there is upward tension which had me confused as to how it should be oriented. I realized that you have to loosen the tensioner bolt in the middle and extend it as seen in the second picture. Once I did that, the upward tension was reversed which is how it is supposed to go on the bike.

Belt Tensioner - 1.jpg Belt Tensioner - 2.jpg

The 2013 RT tensioner is awesome because there is no drilling. It bolts directly to frame just inside of the left frame rail. Installation was very simple.

Belt Tensioner - 3.jpg

Here is a picture taken from under the right side of the bike showing the inside of the tensioner. With the recommended tension set (10-12 lbs.), you can see the upward pressure it puts on the belt. One thing to note is that you need to trim the belt guard in order for the tensioner to clear. Behind the tensioner, you can see how I trimmed mine. I used cutters and a dremel and just cut it straight. It looks fine because from the left side of the bike, this part of the guard is hidden behind foot peg / footboard assembly.

Belt Tensioner - 4.jpg

This part too seems be of high quality. It is pretty heavy and just feels very well built. I did have belt vibration under certain conditions, so I hope this takes care of it.

Keep an eye out for the gap between the arm and the belt guard you had to trim. Over time, the belt will stretch a little and the arm will take up the slack - up to the point the arm hits the belt guard. Then it doesn't work like it should.

"Mind the Gap" and you will really like how this smooths out the bike on the road.

Jerry

[Ramjet]

So here is question maybe a dumb one.

the (uppers) body panels around the seat have a torx-head screw but they have dimples in the center is there a special torx head driver with hole to accommodate this?

[stewartj239]

So here is question maybe a dumb one.

the (uppers) body panels around the seat have a torx-head screw but they have dimples in the center is there a special torx head driver with hole to accommodate this?

Yes there is. The first time I took the panels off, I went out and bought those bits and come to find out, those screws don't come out. On the other side is a post that you pull out on to get the panel off. So the screw secures the post for "popping" that part of the bodywork in and out.

[Ramjet]

Yes there is. The first time I took the panels off, I went out and bought those bits and come to find out, those screws don't come out. On the other side is a post that you pull out on to get the panel off. So the screw secures the post for "popping" that part of the bodywork in and out.

See thats why no question is stupid question........

Thanks.

[stewartj239]

The KewlMetal Air Filter Kit has finally arrived. This is pretty much all there is to it.

KewlMetal Air Filter Kit - 3.jpg

Here are a couple of pictures of the OEM air filter system. It is massive. Take note of how much space it takes up both horizontally and vertically. There is no room for air circulation in the upper part of the Tupperware with this thing in there. Oh yeah, it is impossible to work on the upper engine as well.

KewlMetal Air Filter Kit - 1.jpg KewlMetal Air Filter Kit - 2.jpg

Here is a comparison of the two systems.

KewlMetal Air Filter Kit - 4.jpg KewlMetal Air Filter Kit - 5.jpg

As stated, two straight forward benefits are that it provides easier access to the engine and it adds a bunch of open space for air to circulate. Another benefit is that it will let the engine breath. I am adding the cat bypass and the Akraprovic silencer, but those mods would be handicapped by not opening up the intake.

Lastly, the OEM system weighs a whopping 11 lbs. The KewlMetal system only weighs 2 lbs. When I am done with this project, I will post what the total weight savings is. The Akrapovic subtracted 10 lbs. The KewlMetal kit subtracted 9 lbs and I have yet to compare the catalytic converter with the Y-pipe. I think when I'm done, there will easily be a 20 - 25 lb weight reduction.

[Ramjet]

Great info my Kewl Metal AF is on order along with the cat bypass Y pipe.

Heat tape xtra hvy duty.

I am going with Two Bros muffler carbon fiber.

I bet the Cat weighs 40 lbs could wrong but that thing is as large as pot belly stove.

I also will add the new Vertika Trikes upper louvre intake vents for better flow to get the hot air out while moving.

The real estate that stock AF takes up is crazy it acts like an air dam not allowing much "flow" of air.

Great at updates keep it up it is helpful.

[frenchek]

Great info my Kewl Metal AF is on order along with the cat bypass Y pipe.

Heat tape xtra hvy duty.

I am going with Two Bros muffler carbon fiber.

I bet the Cat weighs 40 lbs could wrong but that thing is as large as pot belly stove.

I also will add the new Vertika Trikes upper louvre intake vents for better flow to get the hot air out while moving.

The real estate that stock AF takes up is crazy it acts like an air dam not allowing much "flow" of air.

Great at updates keep it up it is helpful.

if you add the kewl intake do you have to add a juice box--will it change how rich or lean the engine runs ?

[stewartj239]

Great info my Kewl Metal AF is on order along with the cat bypass Y pipe.

Heat tape xtra hvy duty.

I am going with Two Bros muffler carbon fiber.

I bet the Cat weighs 40 lbs could wrong but that thing is as large as pot belly stove.

I also will add the new Vertika Trikes upper louvre intake vents for better flow to get the hot air out while moving.

The real estate that stock AF takes up is crazy it acts like an air dam not allowing much "flow" of air.

Great at updates keep it up it is helpful.

I have weighed the catalytic converter and believe it or not, it is just 12 lbs. I too thought it was heavier. I'm waiting to get my Y-pipe back so I can weight it, but it too has some weight to it. I bet it will be about half the weight.

Yes, that stock air box is an absolute monstrosity. No wonder why you can't get any real air moving through the upper vents on the Tupperware.

It's great to hear about your upgrades as they will only make the bike run and perform better. Feel free to post back here with your progress. I don't mind.

[stewartj239]

if you add the kewl intake do you have to add a juice box--will it change how rich or lean the engine runs ?

It depends on what else you've done to your bike. It seems that the 3 main things that people do that would affect the FI are adding a silencer, removing the cat and opening up the air intake. These will typically make the bike run leaner. The stock ECU seems to adjust just fine to any one of these mods. It's when you do two or more that people start noticing the lean conditions. If you have a 2013 RT / ST, there is a new ECM that was just released which I'm guessing will richen up the FI map, so that update might allow for even more adjustability from the stock unit. Since I am doing all three, I am playing it safe and going straight to the PCV.

[Ramjet]

It depends on what else you've done to your bike. It seems that the 3 main things that people do that would affect the FI are adding a silencer, removing the cat and opening up the air intake. These will typically make the bike run leaner. The stock ECU seems to adjust just fine to any one of these mods. It's when you do two or more that people start noticing the lean conditions. If you have a 2013 RT / ST, there is a new ECM that was just released which I'm guessing will richen up the FI map, so that update might allow for even more adjustability from the stock unit. Since I am doing all three, I am playing it safe and going straight to the PCV.

I fully agree and would do it add the Fuel control module. After much deliberation I think the Auto Tune is the way to go that is what i ma doing. I am only going to do the single channel. I am convinced the changes discussed here will make at least 30-70 deg F difference under the Tupperware and will validate that with an infared temp gun. While moving I think it will stabilize slightly over ambient plus 50 deg. Yes I am convinced it will make that big of a difference.

[stewartj239]

I fully agree and would do it add the Fuel control module. After much deliberation I think the Auto Tune is the way to go that is what i ma doing. I am only going to do the single channel. I am convinced the changes discussed here will make at least 30-70 deg F difference under the Tupperware and will validate that with an infared temp gun. While moving I think it will stabilize slightly over ambient plus 50 deg. Yes I am convinced it will make that big of a difference.

I think the AutoTune is a good investment. Just knowing that your bike is always being adjusted for the conditions in real time is awesome. For the single channel, I'm guessing you'll be using the front header pipe for the O2 sensor bung. I only found one spot on the rear header where it can go and even with that, it will barely clear the frame rail and outer body panel. I was hoping to get them back today so that I could photos of their locations, but the shop still hasn't been able to finish them. I am hoping to get them next weekend.

I'll be looking forward to the results of the before and after heat gun readings. I fully agree that there will be a big difference. Even though the airbox removal doesn't do anything to directly reduce heat, like the heat wrap or ceramic coating, I think the amount of open space it creates will be significant for moving the hot air out of there.

[Ramjet]

I think the AutoTune is a good investment. Just knowing that your bike is always being adjusted for the conditions in real time is awesome. For the single channel, I'm guessing you'll be using the front header pipe for the O2 sensor bung. I only found one spot on the rear header where it can go and even with that, it will barely clear the frame rail and outer body panel. I was hoping to get them back today so that I could photos of their locations, but the shop still hasn't been able to finish them. I am hoping to get them next weekend.

I'll be looking forward to the results of the before and after heat gun readings. I fully agree that there will be a big difference. Even though the airbox removal doesn't do anything to directly reduce heat, like the heat wrap or ceramic coating, I think the amount of open space it creates will be significant for moving the hot air out of there.

I absolutely agree on the Auto Tune and the mechanic I am working with has connections with some folks at Power Commander so they are chatting about the initial MAP. The dealership I have is outstanding they listen they discuss and with me doing a good deal of the work and they are doing the under the hood stuff because they will be under there anyways to do the recall work in addition to the changes discuss above. They are also going to look into the laser alignment system and the owner is talking seriously about getting one for the Wisconsin area.

I was thinking the single wide band sensor may be better off in the rear cylinder because it is the one running lean but that may change with additional air movement the machine will now have. When you get your pipes back post some pics I appreciate the discussion and ideas.

[stewartj239]

I was thinking the single wide band sensor may be better off in the rear cylinder because it is the one running lean but that may change with additional air movement the machine will now have. When you get your pipes back post some pics I appreciate the discussion and ideas.

I'd check your plugs first before deciding which header to put it on. My rear cylinder is running richer than the front which is the opposite of what I expected.

I called the shop and they still don't have my headers done yet. They are promising me that I will have them by this up coming Friday. If I get them, I'll post photos right away so you can see where I had them place the O2 bungs for each header pipe.

[stewartj239]

This weekend I got the KewlMetal air filter installed along with the BajaRon ignition wire set. I replaced the ignition wires because I have seen posts where there have been problems with the OEM wires and since I have the bike all torn apart, now is the time to replace them.

Here are pictures that show how much space has been opened up by getting rid of the OEM air box. The first picture is from the left side and the second is from the right.

Air Filter - Left Side.jpg Air Filter - Right Side.jpg

This picture really gives a good perspective of how much open space there is now in the upper part of the Tupperware. There is a benefit of letting the engine breath better, but I see the main advantage as being able to access the motor and everything else in there.

Air Filter - Right Side - 2.jpg

[stewartj239]

While I was working on the bike today, I happened to notice that there are grease fittings at the top of where each A-arm connects to the frame. There are 4 on each side for a total of 8. I had no idea they were there. I greased them up and am now looking for others.

Grease Fittings.jpg

[Ramjet]

Got the Kewl Metal AF today on the agenda for Sunday

[stewartj239]

Got the Kewl Metal AF today on the agenda for Sunday

Have you removed the OEM airbox / resonator yet? The KewlMetal installation only takes 10 minutes. Removing the OEM stuff is where all the pain is. If you haven't done it yet, then make sure that you are in the right frame of mind because you will need a lot of patience to get it out. I almost took a saw and cut that POS out of there

[Ramjet]

Good to know I will make sure I am in the correct state of mind.