Making the 2013 Spyder RT-S "Perfect"

[stewartj239]

Ok after all this it's not the be/yl wire, it's 2nd from the right, i believe the be/gy and it's the 0.4 volt wire, now if tech support can figure out how to tell me why throttle % reads 0 at idle but won't go past 6% wide open the bike may start running right?

What year is your RT? The directions that came with my PCV was for the 2011-2012 which did not have the proper wire color for the 2013. If you have a 2013, I think I may have documented it on the installation directions and I can look it up for you.

[rarerockmusic]

What year is your RT? The directions that came with my PCV was for the 2011-2012 which did not have the proper wire color for the 2013. If you have a 2013, I think I may have documented it on the installation directions and I can look it up for you.

2010 think i got it right, i upgraded the firmware, now i can get throttle to 40% bounces from 0 to 1 at idle. Close enough for now, but the juice box showed throttle through out, strange but will test ride tomorrow, tech says i need it dyno tested but $$$

[rarerockmusic]

2010 think i got it right, i upgraded the firmware, now i can get throttle to 40% bounces from 0 to 1 at idle. Close enough for now, but the juice box showed throttle through out, strange but will test ride tomorrow, tech says i need it dyno tested but $$$

Only problem now is when it starts it stumbles bad, takes a min then smooths out, 2 times erratic, like limp mode but no codes? Had to restart to get it to run right? tech was no help, they gave me new throttle position numbers to reset the throttle but throws it way off!

[rarerockmusic]

Well still no luck, dyno shop can't do the Spyder. Does anyone know where i can find the approximate TPS voltages? Would they be the same as the TAS voltage, i found those numbers and the low number is very close to my Idle TPS voltage. Worst case I'll have to strap the laptop on the bike and find a straight road....

[stewartj239]

Well still no luck, dyno shop can't do the Spyder. Does anyone know where i can find the approximate TPS voltages? Would they be the same as the TAS voltage, i found those numbers and the low number is very close to my Idle TPS voltage. Worst case I'll have to strap the laptop on the bike and find a straight road....

I couldn't find a dyno shop that could take the Spyder either. Sorry, but I can't help you with the TPS voltages. It is beyond what I know.

[stewartj239]

For the default map on the PCV, the blanket closed loop area is hardcoded to a value of 8%. Since the Spyder's map was now richer, the 8% was still being applied which now was causing the Spyder to run too rich.

Just an FYI that I have run the closed loop up to 4% now with NO fault codes being thrown, so I bumped it up to 6% today. I'll run it for the next week and check again for codes after every ride. We'll see what happens but I expect to get the fault codes again before I run it back up to 8%. I'd like to be able to verify that the ECM did indeed put on a richer map.

[rarerockmusic]

Now, how to use the software and use the Trim values that AutoTune provides:

You have THREE Tables to work with (when AutoTune is installed and configured correctly):

TARGET AFR Table (the AF ratio goal that you want your bike to run at. This Table you can edit yourself based on how you want your bike to run)
TRIM Table (being continously populated with values by AT)
FUEL Table (is being populated/updated when you accept the trim values, or manually by you).

These (all tables dependant on the number of add-on modules installed) three tables together are called the MAP.

Each PC V comes with a base map containing a TARGET AFR Table that is bike specific.
This TARGET AFR Table contains the target AF ratio for each throttle% / rpm combination.

So let's say you have a TARGET AFR of 13 in the cell for 60% throttle and at 5000 rpm of the TARGET AFR Table
Trim value for that cell after riding the bike is set to 10 in the TRIM Table by AutoTune
The FUEL Table for that cell initially contains 0. After accepting the trim values that AT generated for you while driving, the FUEL Table for that cell would contain 10. Meaning the PC V will add 10% of fuel at 60% throttle and 5000 rpm in order to achieve the TARGET AFR of 13 that you've set for that cell.

Now after the next ride, let's say AutoTune put a -4 into that cell of the TRIM Table. After you accept this trim value by using ACCEPT TRIM, the value in the FUEL Table for that cell would change from 10 to 6 (deducting 4 from 10). That is the way that the AT module continuously improves your FUEL Table. Once the TRIM Values in the TRIM Table are all 0 or close to 0 you have reached your goal. The PC V is adjusting the actual AFR to match the exact AFR values that you have eneterd into the AFR TARGET Table.

And AutoTune will continuously adjust the trim values (within the % bandwith that you setup in the Max % enrichment / Max % enleanment option of the AutoTune Configuration) caused by the external variables to make sure the PC V is able to meet the AFR TARGET values.





The base TARGET AFR Table that Dynojet provides can be edited by you. The FUEL Table that your tuner made on the dyno is a good starting point for the FUEL Table. As you drive more and after each ride accept the trim values, you will notice that the bike runs better after each run / acceptance of the trim values!


Question:
What is the difference between GET TABLE, SEND TABLE / GET MAP, SEND MAP and ACCEPT TRIMS etc...

Answer:

If you open the Help Index in the Control Center Software, you get a little bit more explanation on the commands and their context.

The GET TABLE and SEND TABLE, GET MAP and SEND MAP are used to retrieve / send the table / map (a map = all tables in a map) that you select in the left hand screen of the Control Center Software from / to the PC V.

Whereas Accept All Trims applies the trim values (that the AT module has written to the TRIM Table) to the FUEL Table. The values in the fuel table will change by the amount in the trim table and the trim table will then be cleared.

You must then click Send Map (or Send Table if you want to send only the Fuel Table to the PC V) to send the complete map containing the updated Fuel Table to the power commander.

So, GET and SEND read / write info from / to the PC V. This can be only a specific Table (Get/Send Table) or the entire Map (Get/Send Map).

ACCEPT trim table APPLIES the trim values in the trim table to the FUEL Table. ACCEPT Trim values only UPDATES the values in the FUEL Table but does NOT SEND that FUEL Table to the PC V.

That is why you then need to SEND that FUEL Table to the PC V by selecting SEND Table while the FUEL Table in the left side of the CONTROL CENTER SOFTWARE is selected (green). Alternatively you can also choose SEND MAP which sends all tables in that map to the PC V.


INFORMATION REGARDING THE O2 OPTIMIZER / CLOSED LOOP AREA / THROTTLE BODY SYNC
Provided by YamaPA in collaboration with ~TABASCO~ (Jaxon)

Here are the more fun facts Jaxon eluded to....

I had a conversation with a particular DynoJet tech person today who has been recommended by Jaxon in the past. I contacted him to clear some things up about the PCV, AT, optimizers, closed loop, etc. He is what I learned/reaffirmed. Some of this may be known to some, some of it I believe is completely new to everyone. I dont do this for a living, I didnt sleep at a Holiday Inn last night, I take no responsibility for your actions, you cant sue me because I said so, etc. Here you go........

1. DynoJet says that in MOST cases, an AFR of 13.0 to 13.2 will yield maximum power for a bike. DynoJet after finding the AFR which yields the most power for a bike will assign that AFR to the open loop portion of ALL maps for that model bike. There is no tweaking between low and high rpm, throttle position, etc. This is not to say that DynoJet's research for the maximum power AFR for a model bike is the same as what the manufacture of the bike came up with. In other words, DynoJet may say 13.2 to 1 but Yamaha came up with 12.9 to 1 or something else. This MAY be the very reason why we are seeing the PCVs overall fuel table showing more negative numbers than posite numbers. Yamaha may have speced the bike with very rich numbers in the open loop area. DynoJet may not have done all their research on this bike and it's dyno work. They may be close or they could be off. Who knows and go figure. What works for YOU is what is important. As I said before, until you have numerous well prepared maps and lots of dyno time to compare those maps on the same day, you will not know exactly what AFR produces the most power.


2. DynoJet says that MOST manufacturers will have a closed loop AFR around 14.6 to 1, and open loop AFR that yields maximum power. DynoJet's optomizers for the Tenere are configured to operate the closed loop at 13.6 to 1. This is a hard and fast number confirmed with Dynojet. There is NOTHING YOU CAN DO (until I explain later of course) to the DynoJet optomizers, PCV, AT, fuel table, etc. that will change that 13.6 to 1 number. The DynoJet optomizers ALWAYS try to strive to obtain 13.6 to 1 in the closed loop...ALWAYS MEANS ALWAYS. As stated above, DynoJet says that most manufacturers have their closed loop around 14.6 to 1. In the case of the Tenere, the DynoJet optomizers are richer than the stock Tenere configuration. In SOME MODEL bikes, the Tenere seemingly being one of them, when you install DynoJet optomizers which request a richer fuel mixture in closed loop than the stock configuration, the stock ECU cannot supply/adjust as much as necessary to meet the richer fuel mixture specification....this is why DynoJet has said "put some numbers in the fuel table map of the closed loop area ranging from 0 - 10". What this does it tells the PCV to add fuel to the closed loop specifications, but the system will still strive to obtain the 13.6 to 1 AFR being specified by the DynoJet optomizers. You could put numbers as high as 50 in the closed loop area on the DynoJet fuel map, but the optomizers will always try to achieve the specified 13.6 to 1 AFR...and WILL DO SO after 2 seconds...which is the time it takes for whole system to adjust "things" at a certain RPM and throttle position. Basically, by placing numbers in the fuel table in the closed loop area, you are ensuring that there is enough fuel being supplied to meet the specified 13.6 to 1 AFR for the closed loop. For example, let's say through testing that we know for 100% fact that the Tenere requires the addition of 5 "units" of fuel to achieve the 13.6 to 1 AFR. If you were to put a 3 in the closed loop area, that would not be enough fuel to satisfy the 13.6 to 1 AFR....you would be 2 units short. If you put in a 5, you are spot on. But since we dont know for sure what the number is (we are talking reality here), we put in an 8, and we are 3 units high, and the system corrects itself to achieve 13.6 to 1 AFR. There really is no harm in being high with your numbers in the closed loop area of the fuel map. I specifically asked DynoJet if using high numbers would cause the system to work "harder" and the answer was pretty much "NO". So feel free to place a 7 or 10 in the closed loop if you really want to be certain to have access to that 13.6 to 1 AFR for closed loop. Remember the reason we are doing this is because the stock ECU cannot adjust enough by itself to meet the new 13.6 to 1 AFR as stipulated by the DynoJet optimizers.

3. As eluded to above, the DynoJet optimizers CAN BE CONFIGURED TO AFRs OTHER THAN 13.6 TO 1. Yes, you read that correctly. And yes, above I said you can't do anything to change the configured optimizers. I lie or I get to you read further and become edjumacated. You come here for hard hitting facts, and that's' what we deliver. Here is how it's done. First, understand that not all PCVs come with optimizers. In some model bikes, optimizers are an optional purchase. In other cases, optimizers can be configured by opening them up and selecting/repositioning various dip switches to achieve difference AFRs for the closed loop. In still other cases, optimizers can be configured by simple USB connection to the MOST CURRENT DynoJet software. The later is the case for the Tenere. The optimizer control unit for the Tenere has a USB port....simply access the port, plug in a USB cable, plug in your "normal" USB connection for the PCV, and start your DynoJet tuning software. You need to have both cables connected to your computer. Across the top menu bar, select "O2 optimizer", select "configure" and you are there. A slider bar will appear with numbers positive and negative. Positive richens the mixture (lower AFR number) and negative leans the mixture (higher AFR number). If you select +2 you will richen the closed loop optimizer value from the standard 13.6 to 1 to 13.4 to 1. If you select -4, you lean the mixture to 14.0 to 1. Just keep in mind that whatever AFR you select for the closed loop area, that AFR applies to the ENTIRE closed loop area. NO EXCEPTIONS. Whether or not you decide to play with AFRs in the closed loop are up to you. Personally, I really don't see much value here because, well, if I want to go fast, I twist the throttle, and that action takes you out of closed loop because of throttle position you have requested which is outside closed loop control. The only reason to access this area for closed loop is if you want increased fuel mileage when in closed loop during cruise mode. If you want, go test out 13.8, 14.0, maybe even 14.2 to 1 AFRs and observe for surging of the bike. If its not surging, your probably good to go for increased mileage. Remember, most likely, Yamaha was at 14.6 to 1 in the closed loop so even at 14.2 to 1 you are still richer thatn stock.

4. As far as synchronzing the throttle goes....due to the fly by wire nature of the throttle on the Tenere, there remains some uncertainty as to whether you can sync the throttle for both the low end and the high end correctly without the use of dyno. Some say you can, some say you can't. DynoJet was not able to give me an accurate answer for the Tenere at the time of discusion (I didnt want him to look it up and take more time from the tech), but they did say that most of the recent Yamaha fly by wire throttles CANNOT be set at the high end unless the engine is spinning above a certain RPM. Such can only be achieved on a dyno or a good burnout in your garage! You CAN sync the low end without the use of dyno. If you dont have a dyno, and you need to sync your throttle, play it safe and only do the low end. Finally, you only have to sync the low end IF AND ONLY I, your completely warmed up bike, once connected to the DynoJet software, shows something other than 0% throttle when the throttle is at rest. If you show 1100 rpms and 0% throttle, your low end of throttle is synced correctly....dont mess with it.

Screenshot of the Optimizer closed loop configuration slider bar:

This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 600x491.

Some test results regarding closed loop AFRs and the number values you insert in the closed loop portion of the fuel table.

First, understand that without a load control dyno, holding a set engine rpm at a set throttle % position is not easy. There is a good amount of "wiggle". The below results were obtained trying to hold 4% throttle which equated to about 3200-3400 rpms when the bike was in neutral. I realize this is NOT the best way to test this, but it did give me some results.

Using the DynoJet optomizers set at their default value of 13.6 to 1 (as delivered with your Power Commander kit), here is what happens holding the above rpm and above throttle position......

1. When zeros are inserted in the closed loop portion of the fuel table, I was reading AFRs at about 16-15 to 1.

2. When 7s are inserted in the closed loop portion of the fuel table, I was reading AFRs at about 13.8 - 13.7 to 1.

3. When 8s are inserted in the closed loop portion of the fuel table, I was reading AFRs at about 13.7 - 13.6 to 1.

4. When 20s are inserted in the closed loop portion of the fuel table, I was reading AFRs at about 13.6 to 1.

Again, it isnt easy getting good stable numbers. The AFRs change so fast your basically reading blinks.

Now remember, this was a half ass test. I only tested 4% throttle and about 3200 tto 3400 rpms. You need a load control dyno to get truly meaningful results, but the above appears to confirm the following:

1. You need at least 8 in the closed loop portion of the fuel table to run with the DynoJet optomizers configured for 13.6 to 1. Let me add, I spoke again to DynoJet just now and the individual I got this time told me his "professional tuner notes" (which go out to the tuning centers) recommends values somewhere between 8 and 12. Amazing how my simple test confirms the 8 number. If you are well below the 8 number...say using numbers 2 to 6....you are unlikely ever achieve the 13.6 to 1 AFR and will be leaner. If you are excessively above these numbers, the ECM will eventually take out the excess fuel to achieve the 13.6 to 1 AFR...more below.

2. Numbers way above 8 (20 in my test case) does NOT drop the AFR below 13.6 to 1 with the optomizers in the default condition. Having big fat numbers allows the ECM to get to 13.6 to 1 "quicker" than the "just barely acceptable" 8 number. But, if you run big fat numbers like 20 or more, you will have a big excess of fuel for a BRIEF moment of time, which the ECM will remove because you will NOT overide the 13.6 to 1 AFR unless you changed it the optomizer screen. You will however be wasting fuel.


3. If you want AFRs in the closed loop richer than 13.6 to 1, you will have to access the optomizer screen, raise the value (a positive value being selected), and then add bigger numbers (larger than 8 - 12) in the closed loop portion of the fuel table. DynoJet said that if you drop the AFR 0.2, you will have to add 2 more points in the fuel table. So a 13.4 AFR will use 10-12 numbers in the closed loop portion of the fuel table, a 13.2 will use 12-14 numbers , etc. If you go leaner, for fuel mileage purposes, a 13.8 AFR will use 6-10 numbers, a 14.0 AFR will use 4-8 numbers, etc. These numbers kind of agree that with 0s in the closed loop fuel table you will be at the 15 or 16 to 1 AFR which I reported seeing. Interesting!

For clarification, and this may sound remedial, but let's confirm some terms and defintiions and directions.

- AFRs. 13.6 is the standard DynoJet optomizer AFR that comes with your Power Commander. 13.4, 13.2 are RICHER AFR numbers and use more fuel. 13.8, 14.0 are LEANER AFR numbers and use less fuel.

- On the DynoJet optomizer configuration screen....if you +1 the AFR, the AFR ratio actually lowers to 13.5 which provides a RICHER fuel mixture. A +3 on the optomizer screen gets you a 13.3 AFR. Negative numbers on the optomizer screen LEAN the mixture out and use less fuel.

- On the Power Commander FUEL TABLE (NOT the AFR table), a positive number RICHENS the mixture by that number percentage. A +3 means 3% more fuel. A negative number such as -4 means remove 4% fuel.

[stewartj239]

Now, how to use the software and use the Trim values that AutoTune provides:

You have THREE Tables to work with (when AutoTune is installed and configured correctly):

TARGET AFR Table (the AF ratio goal that you want your bike to run at. This Table you can edit yourself based on how you want your bike to run)
TRIM Table (being continously populated with values by AT)
FUEL Table (is being populated/updated when you accept the trim values, or manually by you).

These (all tables dependant on the number of add-on modules installed) three tables together are called the MAP.

This is a great find. Thanks for posting. I learned most of this by using the software, by trial and error and email support from DynoJet. One tip I can give is after you "think" you sent the updates to the PCV, always do a "Get Map" to verify that they were sent to the PCV and that operation will pull the map currently in the PCV memory.

Here are a couple of quotes that I keyed in on regarding my current testing:

"You could put numbers as high as 50 in the closed loop area on the DynoJet fuel map, but the optomizers will always try to achieve the specified 13.6 to 1 AFR...and WILL DO SO after 2 seconds...which is the time it takes for whole system to adjust "things" at a certain RPM and throttle position. Basically, by placing numbers in the fuel table in the closed loop area, you are ensuring that there is enough fuel being supplied to meet the specified 13.6 to 1 AFR for the closed loop."

"You need at least 8 in the closed loop portion of the fuel table to run with the DynoJet optomizers configured for 13.6 to 1 ..... say using numbers 2 to 6....you are unlikely ever achieve the 13.6 to 1 AFR and will be leaner. If you are excessively above these numbers, the ECM will eventually take out the excess fuel to achieve the 13.6 to 1 AFR...more below."

These quotes seem to contradict what DynoJet is having me do with the closed loop settings, but this post later discusses how the O2 Optimizer affects things. I have not mentioned this yet, but they also had me adjust the O2 Optimizer as well, so that may hold the key to confirming that the ECM update did include a richer map. Lastly, the PCV is configured to run the Spyder at an AFR of 13.2.

[rarerockmusic]

If the PCV for the spyder is configured for a 13.2 AFR then the maps they give out, from what I've read are wrong then? This would mean all the closed loop numbers should be higher than 8? The manual for my 2010 PCV says 13.6, is it different for the 2013? And would a 13.2 be better? I did set the throttle numbers to match the TAS and seems good for now until i can get it on a dyno, i also took a closer look at the map and saw 8's in fields at 0% throttle under 1400 rpm's which once changed to zero fixed my hard starting problem and initial rough idle at start up, it makes no sense they would put numbers for more fuel well below the bikes idle speed, which seemed to cause a flooding condition.

[stewartj239]

The manual for my 2010 PCV says 13.6, is it different for the 2013? And would a 13.2 be better?

The PCV for the 2010 has a different part number than the 2013 which would tell me that things are different. Actually the 2011-2013 all share the same part number. I trust that DynoJet knows what they're doing with the base settings. Mine runs great since installing it at all throttle and RPM ranges.

[BikerDoc]

great list, great work

[TEHelms]

You've got to look at the context of how I said what I did. I am not saying there is a design flaw by only having a rear brake. I'm saying that I ALWAYS ride a motorcycle with a finger on the front brake lever so I can react immediately if necessary. You cannot do that with the Spyder's rear brake pedal, so your reaction time for getting on the brakes is far worse than having a front brake setup. So for my personal riding style, it is a safety issue.

I just bought a Spyder and I keep reaching for that handbrake! Having a front handbrake with the ABS would seem to be a great addition to the machine.

[Omcge]

I just bought a Spyder and I keep reaching for that handbrake! Having a front handbrake with the ABS would seem to be a great addition to the machine.

ISCI Handbrake system, one of the sponsors.

[stewartj239]

I just bought a Spyder and I keep reaching for that handbrake! Having a front handbrake with the ABS would seem to be a great addition to the machine.

Yes! Thank you! Coming from 2 wheels makes it very difficult not having it there. On my last motorcycle, the brakes were linked so I often did the braking with the front brake only and as I've stated before, your reaction time is much quicker than having to use the foot brake.

ISCI Handbrake system, one of the sponsors.

That is exactly what I put on my Spyder and I love it. I now use the front lever 90%+ of the time and rarely touch the rear brake at all.

[stewartj239]

With the help of Dyno Jet and after much testing, I can now say that I am very confident that the ECM update for the 2013 RT did indeed include a richer fuel map.

Here is the history. Last winter I installed a PCV and AutoTune. I started with one of the Dyno Jet maps that closely resembled the modifications that I made. For the closed loop range of the map, Dyno Jet adds a flat 8% of fuel over the OEM map. I ran this map without issue for 1500 miles this past spring.

After the ECM update was announced, I decided not to have it installed for fear that it would mess up the existing PCV settings in the event it did contain a richer fuel map. Since I am one for adventure and also the fact that I wanted the other software updates that might have been included with the ECM update, I rolled the dice and had it done.

Almost immediately, the Spyder started throwing error codes. I consulted with Dyno Jet and gave them my theory that due to the ECM update, the (original) map had been richened up and because the PCV was still adding 8% more fuel on top of that, it was causing my problems. They told me that in order to dial it out, start by changing the closed loop range to 0% which would clear the error codes and then work back up to 8% until the codes start to appear again. In addition, the O2 Optimizer settings needed to be tweaked as well.

Here are the results. The map that Dyno Jet created for the Spyder prior to the ECM update had a flat closed loop setting of 8% and O2 Optimizer settings of 0 for both sensors / cylinders. My final numbers are as follows:

Closed Loop Setting = 4%
O2 Optimizer Sensor 1 = -4
O2 Optimizer Sensor 2 = 0

These final numbers tell me that the ECM update richened the RT fuel map by 3% to 4%. My science is not exact, but I think it is pretty clear that the map was altered by the ECM update and no doubt was richened. My guess is that this was done to help address the heat issue which does makes sense as a lean running engine will run hotter.

Here are my new fuel tables for each cylinder:

Fuel Map - Cylinder 1.jpg Fuel Map - Cylinder 2.jpg

Here are my new O2 Optimizer settings. Note that these settings, such as -4, are NOT measured as a percentage. Dyno Jet gave me the details on this and I can post the explanation if anyone is interested.

O2 Optimizer Setting for Closed Loop.jpg

Here are my notes that are specific to my map:

Map Notes.jpg

If anyone has a PCV and has modifications similar to mine, then I will be happy to send you this map. If you have a PCV and have had the ECM update done, then I would suggest that you reduce the closed loop settings from 8% to 4%.

My longer term plan is to have a custom map created by a local shop. They are in the process of creating a platform so that they can get the Spyder on their dyno. They don’t expect to have it done until the spring so I won’t be able to compare and share those numbers until then.

[stewartj239]

It has been a year since I started my updates and thought that after a year of riding with them implemented, it was time to provide some feedback on each of them.


Akrapovic Exhaust – 10 lbs. lighter than the stock exhaust and has a nice sound.

Cat Removal – Heat has definitely been reduced. I’ve heard a number of complaints about this particular bypass from Spyder1Attitude. I will admit that it was a tight fit and the hangars at the stock mounting bracket did not line up. However, it is so light, the hangars are not needed. The header pipes and the exhaust pipe can easily hold the weight.

PCV with AutoTune – The main reason for this update was due to my belief that the OEM fuel map was too lean – which it was. Out of the box, the PCV runs 8% richer than stock and my analysis has me convinced that the ECM update provided by the recall from earlier this year added a richer map to the ECM. This update allows the engine to run cooler and provides for a flawless FI map.

ELKA 1+R Suspension – The wandering has been greatly reduced. In addition, you can push the RT harder through the turns before the nanny kicks in. However, the nanny is still there. The Elka suspension allows you to push the limits more than before, but you will still hit the nanny sooner or later. Overall though, the handling is superb and the Spyder feels like it is riding on rails.

ISCI Front Brake – This update is very pricey, but is of great quality. Spending most of my life on 2 wheels, I could not get used to the front brake lever not being there and I now do 90%+ of my braking with just the front brake lever. In faster riding conditions, it allows you to ride with your finger on the brake for a quicker reaction if needed.

BRP Adjustable Wind Deflectors – I bought the chrome ones and they do look great. I leave them in the parallel / middle position all the time thinking that it will help draw air out of the upper vents of the Tupperware. I have no reason to believe that they are not doing that.

Ignition Wire Set & Plugs – No idea if these provided any benefit other than the fact that they didn’t cause any problems either, so I’d say they work well.

Spyderpops Bump Skid – Also with this update, I can’t say that I’ve seen any added benefit other than the fact that I think it is visually appealing. It enhances the look of the Spyder.

BajaRon Sway Bar & Chromoly Heim Joints – Just read one of the hundred other posts about this product. It speaks for itself.

KewlMetal Air Filter Kit – I’ve also seen many complaints about KewlMetal with slow shipping and difficult to reach customer service. It did take 6 weeks for mine to arrive. After the 5^th week, I was able to actually get a response via email regarding the ship date and it showed up a week later. I can’t speak to any added performance with this update, but my whole reason for buying it was to get rid of the 11 lb stock air box and to make the Spyder easier to work on. That and the added airflow in the Tupperware make this update worth the expense.

Evap Canister Removal – If your RT is filling the garage with gas fumes, then do this modification. It cost $12 in parts and it WORKS. I’ve and absolutely no smell of gas at all the entire year and I now don’t have to worry about the garage burning down because of it.

Ceramic Coating – I think this update could actually be the biggest factor in the heat reduction inside the Tupperware. When the engine is up to operating temperature, you can practically touch the header pipes and not burn your fingers. The benefits of ceramic coating are based on fact and it no doubt allows much less of the heat from the headers to be trapped in the Tupperware.

Belt Tensioner – The belt vibration is now gone. Worth every penny.



So I rode the entire 2014 season with these modifications and put about 4000 miles on the RT. I know that on this forum, the 2013 RT has a bad reputation primarily due to the heat issues. I can’t speak to that because my RT was stock for all of last year and the only complaint I had was the gas fumes. All I know is that with the modifications that I have made, the 2013 RT is now flawless. It has superb handling, great engine response, very little heat and the 10+ added HP is very noticeable. At this point, my RT is nowhere near stock, but with a little money, improvements can be made to alleviate problems that some owners may be facing. I hope that the information I have provided here will help others to determine what the proper updates are to make for themselves.

[spyderbirds]

Thanks for the thorough and informative update.

[spacetiger]

Thanks Stewart for all your shared R&D. Glad to hear all the mods worked; you will have to post back a year later. Also, what happened to the MPG?

jerry

[stewartj239]

Also, what happened to the MPG?

Due to the added fuel, there is a decrease in MPG. I get 30-32 MPG, but I am not light on the throttle either

[jcthorne]

Due to the added fuel, there is a decrease in MPG. I get 30-32 MPG, but I am not light on the throttle either

I would love to get 30 MPG. Our 2013s get 24 to 26. And the wife is MUCH lighter on the throttle than I am.

Our only lingering complaint is the gas fumes when we get home. We have to leave the garage open for several hours to let them air out or the house fills with the fumes. Yes, they have had canesterectomies. It helped while riding a great deal, but still have bad fumes after rides.

Your point about the SpyderAttitude cat bypass is dead on, would have been far easier if I had just cut off the hangers. Did not even think of that at the time. They are on now and if I ever replace, would be one from Lamonster garage, just MUCH higher quality for the money.

Thanks for the updates.

[Bob Denman]

24 to 26 mpg?

Something sure isn't right..
(Well; based on what preliminary knowledge we have...)
Let's talk about your bike...
How much do you weigh?
Where do you normally leave your windshield height set at?
What rpm level do you use as a shift point?
What is your normal cruising speed?
What fuel do you use?
Are you towing a trailer?
Is your bike in "Tow-Mode"?
How about tire pressures?

As a matter of reference: my 2010 RT was consistently in the 33 mpg range...
I weigh 205 "on the hoof and ready to go"
The windshield was a 25" off of a 2013, and it was always set about a quarter-inch off of the bottom stops
I shifted at 4800 -5200; depending on the gear
Normal cruising was at 55 mph on the two-lanes, and 63 mph on the interstates
93 octane
No trailer, and no Tow-Mode for me...
Tires: 19 psi front, and 28 rear
Oh! I had BRP's adjustable air deflectors, and they were always set in the center position...

[stewartj239]

Our only lingering complaint is the gas fumes when we get home. We have to leave the garage open for several hours to let them air out or the house fills with the fumes. Yes, they have had canesterectomies. It helped while riding a great deal, but still have bad fumes after rides.

Interesting. Without the canister, where do you think the fumes are coming from? What procedure did you use for removing it? I wonder if it might be different than what I did. I can only speak for myself, but my fumes are 100% gone since it was done.

Your point about the SpyderAttitude cat bypass is dead on, would have been far easier if I had just cut off the hangers.

Rather than cut them off, I just removed the OEM bracket that the hangars were supposed to mount to. I can't see myself doing it, but it would allow me to reverse things and go back to stock.

[stewartj239]

24 to 26 mpg?

As a matter of reference: my 2010 RT was consistently in the 33 mpg range...

Yes, 33 MPG is what I was consistently getting last year as well. With the PCV, I have lost 1-2 MPG, but that is expected, so I am pleased. When the wife and I are out on longer rides, I just have to be a little more conscious of where we can fill up, but adding the PCV was well worth it.

[jcthorne]

24 to 26 mpg?

Something sure isn't right..
(Well; based on what preliminary knowledge we have...)
Let's talk about your bike...
How much do you weigh?
Where do you normally leave your windshield height set at?
What rpm level do you use as a shift point?
What is your normal cruising speed?
What fuel do you use?
Are you towing a trailer?
Is your bike in "Tow-Mode"?
How about tire pressures?

As a matter of reference: my 2010 RT was consistently in the 33 mpg range...
I weigh 205 "on the hoof and ready to go"
The windshield was a 25" off of a 2013, and it was always set about a quarter-inch off of the bottom stops
I shifted at 4800 -5200; depending on the gear
Normal cruising was at 55 mph on the two-lanes, and 63 mph on the interstates
93 octane
No trailer, and no Tow-Mode for me...
Tires: 19 psi front, and 28 rear
Oh! I had BRP's adjustable air deflectors, and they were always set in the center position...

I weigh about 260, wife MUCH less than 200. Stock windshield and usually all the way up on the freeway. Bikes are always in tow mode, no trailer. normal shift if not in traffic is about 6k. Two lane roads unencumbered run about 70, Interstate or open freeway 75 to 80 in keeping with normal traffic flow. Tires are 17 and 26. I have the adjustable air deflectors, wife does not as they have very little effect.

As I said, both bikes get about the same milage when we ride together. Usually takes about 0.2 more fuel to fill mine than hers.

[jcthorne]

Interesting. Without the canister, where do you think the fumes are coming from? What procedure did you use for removing it? I wonder if it might be different than what I did. I can only speak for myself, but my fumes are 100% gone since it was done.



Rather than cut them off, I just removed the OEM bracket that the hangars were supposed to mount to. I can't see myself doing it, but it would allow me to reverse things and go back to stock.

Fumes are coming from the fuel tank. Its hot and spewing fumes from offgassing fuel. Sometimes we can hear it boiling, sometimes not. Does not need to be boiling to have a vapor pressure well above atmospheric and force fumes out. We removed the canister and routed the vent line to the rear of the bike. Where does your vent line go? Those fumes have to go somewhere.....