Making the 2013 Spyder RT-S "Perfect"

[spacetiger]

Most excellent news! I'm glad you quickly pinned it down and have achieved the initial results you were targeting.

Whats next on the agenda?

Jerry

[stewartj239]

Thanks for the update let us know when you get few miles on and how things are working out great job on sharing your entire adventure.

I certainly will report back how things are once I get it out. The weather is not looking good, so it might be another couple of weeks. I gave it a good 20-30 minutes of run time, revved it up a bit and drove it around the driveway in only 1st gear and reverse. Based on all of the PCV changes, I am pretty confident right now that things will be OK. I figure that if something was going to go wrong, it would be with the installation since there is some wire tapping and grounds that need to be done, and that the Spyder would complain at the first startup - like how it did because of the missing temp sensor. Right now, I think I am over the hump.

[stewartj239]

Most excellent news! I'm glad you quickly pinned it down and have achieved the initial results you were targeting.

Whats next on the agenda?

Jerry

Thanks! The only thing that is left is to get the bodywork back on and wait for some nicer weather.

[stewartj239]

I do have a couple of quick observations:

Evap Canister Removal:
I had the bike in the driveway running numerous times and moved it into the garage afterwards each time with the garage door down. I did not realize it until late in the day that I did not not notice any of the gas fumes that were always emitted from the bike after bringing it into the garage before the evap canister removal. I think this fix is for real as I am not the first one to do it.

Ceramic Coating:
I do not have a heat gun, so my testing is kind of lame, but when I did the thorough warm-up, I placed my finger about an inch off of each header at numerous locations. I could easily keep it there for as long as I wanted. Also, after I shut the bike down, I was able to touch the headers within 5 minutes. Like I said, my testing was not real scientific, but knowing what the ceramic coating is supposed to do, I could easily tell that there is significant heat reduction.

[3 Wheel Addict]

So I had a little bit of a scare yesterday. I now have everything hooked up (headers, cat bypass, Akrapovic, KewlMetal air filter, PCV, O2 Optimizer and AutoTune. Before I put the bodywork back on, I wanted to make sure it runs. Getting sick of waiting for warmer weather, I decided to pull it out into the driveway. It was 35 degrees, I turned on the ignition, hit the start button and it fired right up. All joy quickly faded when I saw the check engine light come on

After letting it run for a little while, I noticed that the temperature reading on the display was bouncing all over the place. It was going from -70 to +50 degrees. It was all over the map. I shut it down and decided to do some research. Come to find out, If the temperature sensor (AAPTS) gives incorrect readings, it will cause the check engine light to come on. I was glad to discover that as it explained what I was seeing. I then opened my shop manual for the Spyder to determine where the temp sensor resides. Much to my surprise, it resides in the frunk. When I saw that, a smile came across my face as I had not put the frunk back on yet, meaning that the temp sensor was disconnected.

Today, I got the frunk out of the basement, brought it to the garage and put it back on the bike. There are 8 connectors that needed to be hooked up and then the wire to pop the lid of the frunk. Once completed, I rolled the Spyder back out to the driveway. Today it was just 15 degrees, but I didn't care as I had to verify that the problem was resolved.

I hit the start button and it fired right up with NO check engine light. It is gone. I stopped and restarted the bike numerous times throughout the day and the light is now gone - as it should be now that the temp sensor is hooked up. I let the bike get a thorough warm up and made sure the fan kicked on. It sounds great and the throttle seems to be much more responsive than before. With the cat, stock air box and stock muffler gone, I'm sure the engine is no longer choked up.

At this point, I am extremely pleased that adding the PCV, O2 Optimizer and AutoTune is working just fine with no issues. That was my biggest fear. I'm now going to proceed with putting the bodywork back on and and getting it ready to ride

The air temp sensor unplugged will cause a MAP sensor code because the sensor is part of the ground loop needed to complete the system.
Who made your cat bypass??

[stewartj239]

The air temp sensor unplugged will cause a MAP sensor code because the sensor is part of the ground loop needed to complete the system.

Thanks for the explanation. It makes me even more confident that the check engine light had nothing to do with the PCV.

Who made your cat bypass??

Spyder1Attitude. Unless you build your own, I think they are still the only option out there. I saw that Lamont might be selling one though.

[Ramjet]

I do have a couple of quick observations:

Evap Canister Removal:
I had the bike in the driveway running numerous times and moved it into the garage afterwards each time with the garage door down. I did not realize it until late in the day that I did not not notice any of the gas fumes that were always emitted from the bike after bringing it into the garage before the evap canister removal. I think this fix is for real as I am not the first one to do it.

Ceramic Coating:
I do not have a heat gun, so my testing is kind of lame, but when I did the thorough warm-up, I placed my finger about an inch off of each header at numerous locations. I could easily keep it there for as long as I wanted. Also, after I shut the bike down, I was able to touch the headers within 5 minutes. Like I said, my testing was not real scientific, but knowing what the ceramic coating is supposed to do, I could easily tell that there is significant heat reduction.

I will tell you that if you got that close then you are managing the heat well my heat gun showed the back header after idle of 10 minutes of over 450 deg F by the factory O2 sensor. I will shoot it again after the heat shield is installed.

[spacetiger]

Get close when you use the IR gun, it makes a little difference. If you take the measurement of your hand at different differences, you'll see what I mean. If possible, measure the distance so the same measurement is taken again when you test something else.

Jerry

[stewartj239]

I will tell you that if you got that close then you are managing the heat well my heat gun showed the back header after idle of 10 minutes of over 450 deg F by the factory O2 sensor. I will shoot it again after the heat shield is installed.

Get close when you use the IR gun, it makes a little difference. If you take the measurement of your hand at different differences, you'll see what I mean. If possible, measure the distance so the same measurement is taken again when you test something else.

Jerry

Another thing worth emphasizing as well is that was only 15 degrees out when I did this, so the results probably won't be as good in the warmer weather, but we did have cold days like this in the fall before I tore the bike apart where I did the same test and there is a definite improvement.

[spyderrock]

Stewart I would like to say this, this has to be honestly one of the best threads on Spyderlovers. The amount of detail you have invested in your pictures and explanations is nothing short of amazing. I have not posted anything here in quite a while, last time I did I had my Ass chewed out for some thing I had said. I read a lot of threads on here but this one you have compiled is great. Because of this I am going to be removing my cat and add Baha Rons plugs and wires. I will also add a kewl metal air intake. Thank you for taking some serious time to document all this great work....oh and just a note im a big fan of ceramic coating.

[stewartj239]

Stewart I would like to say this, this has to be honestly one of the best threads on Spyderlovers. The amount of detail you have invested in your pictures and explanations is nothing short of amazing. I have not posted anything here in quite a while, last time I did I had my Ass chewed out for some thing I had said. I read a lot of threads on here but this one you have compiled is great. Because of this I am going to be removing my cat and add Baha Rons plugs and wires. I will also add a kewl metal air intake. Thank you for taking some serious time to document all this great work....oh and just a note im a big fan of ceramic coating.

Thank you. I appreciate the feedback and am glad that this thread has helped you. I've owned more bikes than I can count over the last 25+ years and I always fine tune each bike and make it as good as it can be - and that is what this thread is all about. I try to be as thorough as I can so that others who might be a little apprehensive of attempting some of these updates might feel a little more confident about taking them on. Also, they can always ask for help as well.

As you get into the work on your bike, feel free to post back here as I'm sure there are others that can benefit from your changes as well.

[stewartj239]

I was originally planning to NOT re-install the left and right skid plates thinking that it would allow more air to flow from the bottom of the engine compartment up through the top. However, there are a number of exposed wires down there on both sides that could be damaged from debris getting kicked up. Since my wife and I go on some pretty long day and weekend trips, I decided that it wasn't worth the risk.

What I decided to do instead was go out and buy a hole saw for the drill. As you can see, there are some spots where you can open up the skid plate that have nothing around them that they are actually protecting. This picture shows the right skid plate from the back side of the engine looking forward. These are the 4 spots that I decided to drill. I used a 2-1/4" hole saw.

The left side belly pan is a little different as BRP has a couple of vents on that side that actually direct the air up into the engine compartment. On that side, I ended up only drilling a single hole at the very front. I am pretty pleased how it came out as I don't believe I have compromised anything and it will certainly allow for better air flow.

Belly Pan - Hole Saw.jpg

[stewartj239]

I want to thank my friend spyderyderjim for this next enhancement. They just showed up in my mailbox last weekend and Jim said that I need them. I have never seen these before but they are a great addition. Basically, they are tethers for the side panels. The side panels just pop on and off and are not secured with a bolt. I know that people lose these things every year and they aren't cheap to replace. I actually lost one on my 1986 Honda VF500F way back in the day and it was the same style side panel.

On each side panel, I just looped the wire on the inside, opposite of where the can-am logo is. I then crimped the connector on to wire.

Tether - 1.jpg

Here is the right side panel. I just clipped it to the open hole next to the high beam adjuster.

Tether - 2.jpg

If the panel pops off, then it will just hang off the bike as follows and you won't lose it.

Tether - 3.jpg

Jim - please chime in with some of the details so that others can get these installed as well. I'm not sure if you bought them or made them.

[spyderyderjim]

I want to thank my friend spyderyderjim for this next enhancement. They just showed up in my mailbox last weekend and Jim said that I need them. I have never seen these before but they are a great addition. Basically, they are tethers for the side panels. The side panels just pop on and off and are not secured with a bolt. I know that people lose these things every year and they aren't cheap to replace. I actually lost one on my 1986 Honda VF500F way back in the day and it was the same style side panel.

On each side panel, I just looped the wire on the inside, opposite of where the can-am logo is. I then crimped the connector on to wire.

Tether - 1.jpg

Here is the right side panel. I just clipped it to the open hole next to the high beam adjuster.

Tether - 2.jpg

If the panel pops off, then it will just hang off the bike as follows and you won't lose it.

Tether - 3.jpg

Jim - please chime in with some of the details so that others can get these installed as well. I'm not sure if you bought them or made them.

It is 1/16" stainless steel 1 foot long cables, (2 each).
Two Cable protectors, 4 crimps, 2 quick disconnect key holders in your choice of color.
Loop cable around protector, crimp, hook up key holder.
Loop cable threw inside can-am logo, crimp cable with vise grips.
All parts are from Ace Hardware store.
I built them for myself & friends.
Enjoy side panel safety.
Jim K

[stewartj239]

Here are some final shots before all of the bodywork goes back on.

Under the seat, I've got the PCV and AutoTune on the left. The left side panel actually fits snug to where they are placed, so the best way to route the cables is up by the gas cap. It is there where a gap opens up and the wires can run down from there without fear of getting pinched. On the right side is the O2 Optimizer and that side pretty much has a gap the whole length of the side panel, so you can tuck that wire in just about wherever you want with no fear of pinching it.

ReAssembly - 4.jpg

Here's a good view of the front. Notice how I have the O2 sensor for the AutoTune run on the rear header pipe. If going with the AT-300, then that is literally the only place you can put it. The way it is angled, the side panel will go on without coming in contact with the sensor.

ReAssembly - 3.jpg

This just shows the Akrapovic. I've already had it running and the bike sounds so much better. It actually has a growl to it now instead of a sewing machine sound. With the Akrapovic and the cat removed, I am still a little concerned about how much louder it will be. In the driveway, it did not sound a whole lot louder, even when I revved it up. I won't really know for sure until I take it out and flog it. If it is too loud, then I might consider putting the stock muffler back on.

ReAssembly - 2.jpg

What I really like about this picture is how much open space there is now around the engine with the stock airbox, resonator and evap canister removed.

ReAssembly - 1.jpg

[stewartj239]

It was 41 degrees today and I got sick of waiting for spring, so I took the Spyder out for the “maiden” voyage. I was able to cover 32 miles, had a maximum speed of 72 MPH and varied the throttle so that I had light and hard acceleration points. Here is a list of my observations:

1. There is a very noticeable power gain in gears 2, 3 & 4. This is great because that is where the meat of the power is anyway and where I spend most of my time. I did not really notice any significant gains with 5^th gear, so in my mind, that is still just the overdrive gear and I usually don’t get into it unless I’m doing at least 65 MPH.
2. The Elka suspension was noticeable immediately starting out. The best way to explain it is that the Spyder does not wander like how it used to and the bike feels very firm and planted on the road. It does that while still giving a very comfortable ride. I did get into a few of my corners and the nanny only kicked in once which is far less than before. The Elkas help considerably with the nanny, but does not eliminate it.
3. The FI mapping provided by the PCV and AutoTune was flawless. The bike has never run this “clean” before. There were no stutters or skips anywhere. No backfiring either. Also, the throttle was much more responsive to input. If you gave it gas, it took it. Considering that the base map I put in the PCV does not exactly match my changes and that the AutoTune does have some tuning to do, I was more than pleased with the performance. It exceeded my expectations.
4. The ISCI hand brake is awesome. It takes some getting used to as far as how much pressure to apply to get the stopping power you need, but that took all of about 15 minutes to get down. The whole time out, I never used the brake pedal and I’m sure I never will again.
5. The noise produced by the cat removal and Akrapovic is far less than I was anticipating. When you are heavy on the throttle, it definitely is much louder, but at cruising speeds, it is very tolerable and not much louder than stock. It now has a very healthy growl to it.

Luckily, it was a great outing - except for the cold. There were no check engine lights thrown and I was also worried about seeing the dreaded limp mode screen, but the ride was uneventful and everything ran absolutely perfect. I think in some future posts, I’ll show the process for committing the AutoTune changes to the base map. Here are a few pictures of the bike all buttoned up before I took it out.

Spyder Complete - 1.jpg Spyder Complete - 2.jpg Spyder Complete - 3.jpg

[Ramjet]

Great report thanks I am waiting for my Viritka intake panels to come back from the hydro-graphics place have my headers wrapped Y-pipe installed Elka shocks should be here next week, the tank is insulted and Kewl metal air box installed and the plastic monstrosity removed from the engine compartment, belt tensionor is on order and should ship Monday. Then the machine goes to the dealer for the service bulletin and the new MAP then I will run it awhile and see how things feel and run if they are acceptable I will skip the PC installation. If I am not satisfied then I will do the PC next winter along with the rest of my body panels. We will have close to 60 today that is coming your way stewert.

No work this weekend on my Spyder this weekend was dedicated to the Russian Ural with sidecar and getting it ready for the riding season....to own a Ural is too love working on them but one of the most fun bikes I have ever owned we just love it. Like working on an old International tractor.......

[stewartj239]

I am waiting for my Viritka intake panels to come back from the hydro-graphics place have my headers wrapped Y-pipe installed Elka shocks should be here next week, the tank is insulted and Kewl metal air box installed and the plastic monstrosity removed from the engine compartment, belt tensionor is on order and should ship Monday.

It sounds like you're making great progress too. I am looking forward to seeing what your perceptions are regarding your changes. Once I get more time on mine, I hope to fine tune my initial observations. I want to do some more experimenting with the engine to see how broad the power gains are and to really push the Elkas.

Then the machine goes to the dealer for the service bulletin and the new MAP then I will run it awhile and see how things feel and run if they are acceptable I will skip the PC installation.

Since mine ran so great yesterday, I am now thinking about NOT doing the service bulletin with the ECM update. I am torn at the moment.

We will have close to 60 today that is coming your way stewert.

Tuesday is the day that they're calling for that. I hope that will be the first day that I can take the Spyder to work and back.

[stewartj239]

I have 2 more observations from yesterday:

1. The belt tensioner seems to be working since I did not experience the usual vibrations between 55 and 65 MPH.
2. Once I parked the Spyder in the garage following the ride, there was indeed NO smell of gasoline. The evap canister removal works beyond a doubt. It is simple to perform and pretty much of no expense at all.

[stewartj239]

I think you are wise to not get ECM fuel ratio updates. Your current PCV fuel ratio set up sounds perfect for your 2013 RT-S!!
I would like to see the smile on your face when you take your favorite high speed corners much faster with your Elka shocks!!
Enjoy your Spyder RT-S rydes, after all your hard work over the winter!
Jim

Thanks Jim. That is the way I'm leaning right now. If things are going good, then I don't see the need to update it. My main question about it though is whether there are other updates (other than the FI map) bundled in with the ECM update that I could benefit from. I plan to talk to my dealer about it and see if they can tell me exactly what is included with the update.

[OldCowboy]

I agree that you probably shouldn't get the ECM update. But as I understand it, that service bulletin also covered waterproofing the fuse boxes. You probably should have that part done.

[stewartj239]

I agree that you probably shouldn't get the ECM update. But as I understand it, that service bulletin also covered waterproofing the fuse boxes. You probably should have that part done.

I'll check with the dealer to see if they will do one update as opposed to another and what exactly is included in the ECM update. I'll post back when that happens.

[Ramjet]

I have 2 more observations from yesterday:

1. The belt tensioner seems to be working since I did not experience the usual vibrations between 55 and 65 MPH.
2. Once I parked the Spyder in the garage following the ride, there was indeed NO smell of gasoline. The evap canister removal works beyond a doubt. It is simple to perform and pretty much of no expense at all.

Number one makes me happy I just received mine today will install it the end of the week along with the Elka Shocks.

[stewartj239]

I went to check the Trim tables on the AutoTune today and much to my surprise, they were both at zero. I then noticed that the Target AFR table values were all zero (see below) as well which means that the AutoTune was being told that it had nothing to adjust for.

AutoTune Target AFR Table (Corrupt).jpg

I then decided to start over. I got the proper Dyno Jet base map and configured it for the dual channel AutoTune (AT-300). When you do that, it complains because the base map is configured for the single channel AutoTune (AT-200) and if you continue, it clears both of those tables - which is the root cause of the problem.

Once you commit it, it creates a new structure for the map for the AT-300. The other thing I noticed is that the new structure created a separate Fuel table for each cylinder. I think it got messed up because when I configured things over the winter, I did it off the bike without the AutoTune connected and powered. The only thing now left to do was duplicate the values for the Target AFR and Fuel tables from the original base map.

AutoTune Target AFR Table (New).jpg AutoTune Fuel Table (New).jpg

So now, my game plan is to run it and see if the problem is resolved. If anyone is installing the AT-300, I can send you this base map to save you the trouble of having to create it.

[Mike,P]

What belt tensioner did you go with??? Thx