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  1. #1
    Very Active Member rcturner's Avatar
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    Default Vacuum bleeding brakes

    I have read several threads about bleeding brakes. None of them really addresses if it can be done without having to hook to the BUDS system. My question is: can it be done using a vacuum bleeder and without the need hook to BUDS ? I realize that the system may not be completely purged in the area of the ABS module but, the bulk of the fluid would be changed.

  2. #2
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    Default Vacum Bleeding

    Did my brakes and clutch thousands of miles ago with no problems to date.

  3. #3
    Teddys favorite human CyncySpyder's Avatar
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    Thumbs up Its in the Maintenance & Repair Manual if you have one

    I've not done it yet myself, but will be attempting to do so soon. If you have the Repair Manual, there is a section in it that lists the procedure step by step for doing it manually, at least our 2010-2012 Manual from GreenManuals does.

    If you don't have the manual yet, its less than $10 & totally worth it Here's a link for the 2012 RT's
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/2012-CanAm-C...ht_2113wt_1178

  4. #4
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rcturner View Post
    I have read several threads about bleeding brakes. None of them really addresses if it can be done without having to hook to the BUDS system. My question is: can it be done using a vacuum bleeder and without the need hook to BUDS ? I realize that the system may not be completely purged in the area of the ABS module but, the bulk of the fluid would be changed.
    I did it this summer with no problem. However, I used the old-fashioned method of pumping the pedal and opening/closing the bleeder screw a zillion times. I have a vacuum bleeder but was afraid of it pulling air in around the bleeder screw. Normally this isn't a problem as the air goes back out thru the bleeder nipple into the tubing to the vacuum pump. But BRP's calipers don't have the bleeder screw at the top -- they have them in the middle. So if any air were introduced around the bleeder screw, it could immediately go to the top of the caliper where it would remain trapped. BRP's manual says to remove the calipers and orient them so the bleeder screw is in the upmost position and then use cable ties to hold it there while you bleed it. Sounded ridiculous to me. I kept the calipers in their mounted position and just made sure I was pumping fluid out and not getting any air back in.

    RT and Gold Wing States & Provinces

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