belt tension 2013 rt

[gkerrs]

I have a 2011 rt I set the belt tension with a krikit 140/160# [approx. 450 N] does anyone what the belt tension in # would be on the 2013 rt which is 1050N[+/- 150]

[HuckFin]

Multiply 1050N by .225 to get pounds. 1050x.225=236.25.

[NancysToy]

Multiply 1050N by .225 to get pounds. 1050x.225=236.25.

Please note that the Krikit reading does not translate directly to the sonic gauge reading, so this relationship may not be true for this particular case.

[HuckFin]

Please note that the Krikit reading does not translate directly to the sonic gauge reading, so this relationship may not be true for this particular case.

My 2013 BRP service manual states in the technical section: Drive belt tension (rear wheel lifted)....1050N +/- 150N (236LBF +/- 33.7LBF). Also when I picked up my new 2013 RS-S at the dealer, I checked the belt tension with wheel on ground with the Krikit tool for reference. Got 200 lb reading, on the low side but decided to stay with it. So far so good.

[NancysToy]

My 2013 BRP service manual states in the technical section: Drive belt tension (rear wheel lifted)....1050N +/- 150N (236LBF +/- 33.7LBF). Also when I picked up my new 2013 RS-S at the dealer, I checked the belt tension with wheel on ground with the Krikit tool for reference. Got 200 lb reading, on the low side but decided to stay with it. So far so good.

Because the sonic gauge and the Krikit measure the tension differently, and because the BRP procedure is done with the Spyder jacked up and the belt at lowest tension (where a Krikit reading is more likely to be done on the ground), the readings cannot be directly compared. You can do the math conversion to read in the same units, but the reading will not directly translate. The only way to get an accurate Krikit target is to have the Spyder adjusted using a sonic gauge, then taking a Krikit reading to compare. That compensates for the differences in instrument types as well as any differences in procedure.

Please also realize that belt tensions at delivery are only approximate, and the belts also stretch a bit at first. That is the reason that adjusting the belt tension is part of the first dealer service. The best time to take a comparison reading is right after that service, if it is done properly and thoroughly. If you can get the exact reading or the average of the three readings from the dealer, so much the better.

[HuckFin]

Scotty, I agree with your answers but what I was referring to, was the part about you saying "this relationship may not be true in this for this particular case." So I just wanted to point out that I got the information from the BRP service manual. Also when I picked up my RS-S at the dealer, (Clems) I had faith in them that they had set the belt tension correctly, especially since I told them in advance that I was going to check the tension myself with the krikit gauge before I left the dealership. Also I rechecked the belt tension at 600 miles and was still the same, I also checked it with the back wheel in the air but don't remember the difference. As a side note, I changed the belt tension to 230 lbs but had second thoughts and changed it back because I wasn't having any problems.

[billybovine]

Scotty, I agree with your answers but what I was referring to, was the part about you saying "this relationship may not be true in this for this particular case." So I just wanted to point out that I got the information from the BRP service manual. Also when I picked up my RS-S at the dealer, (Clems) I had faith in them that they had set the belt tension correctly, especially since I told them in advance that I was going to check the tension myself with the krikit gauge before I left the dealership. Also I rechecked the belt tension at 600 miles and was still the same, I also checked it with the back wheel in the air but don't remember the difference. As a side note, I changed the belt tension to 230 lbs but had second thoughts and changed it back because I wasn't having any problems.

I think you are missing one real important fact. I don't know the brand of krikit gage you got but if you got the Gates one the instruction clearly state that the krikit gage cannot be used for multi toothed belts like the one used on the Spyder. It is for the measurement of tension on V-belts and narrow micro V-belts only. So the reading on the krikit gage compared to the BRP's spec is meaningless. Now if you use the krikit gage for checking as a comparison to what the dealer set it to can be useful for seeing if something has changed.

[HuckFin]

I think you are missing one real important fact. I don't know the brand of krikit gage you got but if you got the Gates one the instruction clearly state that the krikit gage cannot be used for multi toothed belts like the one used on the Spyder. It is for the measurement of tension on V-belts and narrow micro V-belts only. So the reading on the krikit gage compared to the BRP's spec is meaningless. Now if you use the krikit gage for checking as a comparison to what the dealer set it to can be useful for seeing if something has changed.

Sorry, I guess I didn't make myself clear enough. That's exactly what I'm using the krikit tool for, in comparison to the sonic reading, the dealer uses. That's why I'm sticking with the original 200 lb reading I got. I know its not exact, but its the best I got for now. In the spring when I take the spyder in for updates I will have them check the belt again and go from there.

[NancysToy]

Sorry, I guess I didn't make myself clear enough. That's exactly what I'm using the krikit tool for, in comparison to the sonic reading, the dealer uses. That's why I'm sticking with the original 200 lb reading I got. I know its not exact, but its the best I got for now. In the spring when I take the spyder in for updates I will have them check the belt again and go from there.

We are really on the same wavelength here, although it was difficult to determine that from your initial post. If a properly adjusted belt at 1050 N +/- 150 was measured jacked up, and the Krikit translated directly, it would read 236 lbf +/- 34. It would read even more when sitting on the ground. It is unknown what the dealer actually set yours at, but assuming it was exactly 1050 N, the Krikit should have read around 250 lbf on the ground. Yours read lower. Take that reading as your baseline, and adjust to that point in the future, not to a mathematically derived equivalent. BTW, don't forget to take an average of three readings at evenly spaced spots around the belt. The tension at different points can vary. Always roll the wheel forward when changing belt position to adjust the belt or to read the measurement, too.

[HuckFin]

Ok, thanks Scotty for the info.