Fuzeblock switched connection

[Topshotta]

Getting ready to install my fuzeblock. What wire/circuit towards the middle and back of the spyder can I tap into that's already running on the power-sheding relayed, I don't want to piss off the nanny by taping the wrong wire.

thank you

[fastfraser]

I have the Beaver fuse block 6 switched and 2 unswitched circuits and I went all the way back to the battery with an inline fuse.

[wyliec]

I also connected my Eastern Beaver Fuse Block directly (through an in-line fuse) to the battery. It sits under the channel that is below the Y panel on my 2008. I have no idea what this is: power-sheding relayed

[coz]

+1 on going straight to the battery. i would never tie it into the bikes wiring. i used the switched power lead up front to activate the fuzeblock relay. never had a problem with it.

[jerpinoy]

Tap your wire directly from your battery and use inline fuse. Nanny won't care.

[mrfats]

Rattigan_Roger, where are you? Assistance needed.

[retread]

Use the switched power from F3 in the Spyder fuse block to drive the relay that powers your aux fuse block, take the power for your fuse block from a fused link direct from the battery.
Ran a setup like this on my '08 for 5 years with no problems.
One suggestion - use dielectric grease on all your connections, helps keep corrosion down.

john

[NancysToy]

I agree with Retread, the best spot on an RS is the switch accessory circuit up front. In the back the running light (orange) wire should be able to pull in the relay without CANbus or nanny issues, however I would suggest a diode on the relay feed.

[Atonic]

There is an available plug under the tail that is used for the GPS kit power. Female plug is wired to the bike, empty male is plugged into it. You would need to find out which holes in the male to use. I could have told you yesterday, but I put the bodywork back on last night.

Wherever you get it, use the connection to power the relay in the fuseblock, get actual power from the battery.

[Topshotta]

I agree with Retread, the best spot on an RS is the switch accessory circuit up front. In the back the running light (orange) wire should be able to pull in the relay without CANbus or nanny issues, however I would suggest a diode on the relay feed.

Scotty,
my understanding is the Fuzeblock has 2 diodes, are you saying I should add one before the relay feed?

[NancysToy]

Scotty,
my understanding is the Fuzeblock has 2 diodes, are you saying I should add one before the relay feed?

If it is already protected, that's all you should need. I expect you will have not problems. Hook her up and go.

[Topshotta]

If it is already protected, that's all you should need. I expect you will have not problems. Hook her up and go.

Thanks Scotty.........just curious what diode would you use in such a case?

[Topshotta]

Is the FZ-1 safe For CanBus (BMW) systems?


Yes. The main issue with the CanBus system is its susceptibility to transient voltages.
A standard relay has a coil and when the electrical field on that coil collapses the energy needs to go somewhere. The voltage travels back through the wiring and, if not blocked, to the bike. The FZ-1 provides two diodes to prevent this from happening. Both diodes provide protection ensuring that any transient voltages are sent to ground or blocked from traveling back into the bike wiring.

[NancysToy]

Thanks Scotty.........just curious what diode would you use in such a case?

I am not anything close to knowledgeable about electronics, so I couldn't recommend a diode. I have always specified the diode option for my Eastern Beaver fuse blocks, so someone else did the thinking. Plug-n-play is always handy.

[quickster47]

Thanks Scotty.........just curious what diode would you use in such a case?

I think something like a 1N4001 should do just fine. I also think you can get them at Radio Shack.

Carl