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  1. #1
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    Default I'm replacing my rear shock What tricks do I need to know?

    Help from anyone that has done this before . Is there anything that I would need to know to make it Easier. Changing the rear shock on my 2011 RT. I was going to have it done at a shop but because of time restraints and the fact that I will not even get it until the 16th Sept. and I'm going to the Spyderquest on the 18th , looks like I will need to crawl under the bike , which should be a funny video at best. I did look under and it appears there are two bolts one top and one bottom.


    Do I need to have the weight off the rear wheel ore is it better to not have the wheel in the air? I'm going to get a motor cycle jack today . I have ramps that I use to get under the bike but its time to have a jack that will lift her up safely. BRP say Best does not cover this under their Warranty so I have a feeling I will be doing more and more of my on work. I have changed shocks on cars before , so how hard could it be?

  2. #2
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    We need the experts to jump in here...
    I believe that there are some very TENDER spots up under there that you can damage if they get in your way...
    Scotty will have the answers; if he doesn't jump in here... PM him!
    (See you in Lake George!)
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  3. #3
    Motorbike Professor NancysToy's Avatar
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    If you jack it up so the wheel is off the ground and disconnect the shock, you will have to disconnect the ACS link first if you have an RTS or LTD. Otherwise the link or sensor can be damaged. I recommend disconnecting the link whenever the shock bolts are removed...just in case. I'd leave the wheel touching the ground...barely. It may have to be adjusted up or down to take the tension off the shock bolt. Make sure you note the bolt and spacer positions carefully. It should be a no sweat deal getting it out if you have sufficient vertical clearance. The real trick is changing the spring to the new shock without killing yourself. You need the proper spring compressor and some careful work. Play it safe! Those springs pack a heck of a wallop.
    Last edited by NancysToy; 09-13-2013 at 07:59 AM.
    -Scotty
    2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
    2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
    2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder



    Mutant Trikes Forever!

  4. #4
    SpyderLovers Founder Lamonster's Avatar
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    Having done this several times it's much less pain to just remove the rear wheel so you have room to get to the top bolt. I've done it both ways and I need to do it again soon and the wheel will be coming off.

  5. #5
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    You got BOTH of the "Big Guns" out for this one!
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  6. #6
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    Default Well I guss I have no choice if I want to ride at spyderquest in 4 days

    Here it is 4 days and I do not even have the shock in my hand. Told the dealer to order one the middle of Aug . Nope they ,someone there forgot to do that. So ordered an ELka rear shock from Missouri on the 5th of Sept. waited for it , on the 11th I called to find out were it was . Asked for a tracking number, got the tracking number and opps it had not been shipped. Shipped on the 11th suppose to arrive here on the 16th . So no time to take it to a dealer unless I can beg and pled enough to for them to feel sorry for me. I guess I can just hope I can get away with all mu fingerers and the rear wheel goes in a straight line when I'm done. wish me luck

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