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Thread: Now mine....

  1. #26
    Very Active Member retread's Avatar
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    I sit here and take notes, do comparisons, choose what I want, buy the stuff and add it to the shelves to keep cabin fever away this winter. (if I'm busy, I don't notice the snow and ice). I'm beginning to womder if I can afford all the things I'm finding. Ah, well, told the kids my will reads "being of sound mind and body, I spent it, go make your own!"

  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by ataDude View Post
    ...easy, 30 minute install... maybe a little on the loud side... but sounds so much better. The photo flash makes the black look purple... but it's not. Magic Man rocks.

    Hey, ataDude, stop posting photos of my Spyder!

    Oh, wait. It can't be my ride--the garage is clean...

    (Looks, sounds, and performs great, doesn't it?!)

  3. #28
    Active Member SpydeeBite2's Avatar
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    My wife and I are new here. Our spyder is on order. This is good stuff. Please keep posting.

  4. #29
    Very Helpful Member bjt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpydeeBite2 View Post
    My wife and I are new here. Our spyder is on order. This is good stuff. Please keep posting.
    welcome
    Former Happy Spyder Owner
    Just decided it was time to move onto other things.

  5. #30
    Registered User Magic Man's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ataDude View Post
    ...easy, 30 minute install... maybe a little on the loud side... but sounds so much better. The photo flash makes the black look purple... but it's not. Magic Man rocks.


    Looking good!

    MM
    [URL="http://www.esicycleproducts.com/"]

  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by ataDude View Post
    This is a standard Yamaha-fit throttle lock carved down to fit the Spyder. The Spyder's throttle sleeve has a ridge under the rubber which also must be filed off. I may install an AudioVox cruise unit later... none of these mods inflict permanent changes which are meaningful.

    Did I say that I dislike the "universal" throttle locks with the ugly (IMHO) bar running across the top in plain view?

    The Grip Puppies assist in softening and enlarging the grips for comfort. All were "in stock" from other bike mods. I'll use these until I decide what to do for heated grips. They are, however, a "bear" to install even using soap and water.

    Did you cut the grips shorter?

  7. #32
    Mod Maniac ataDude's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blown34 View Post
    Did you cut the grips shorter?
    No, sir....just removed the grip while I was installing the throttle lock (had to drill and tap one 6-32 hole) and then reinstalled to fit.

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  8. #33
    Very Active Member retread's Avatar
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    Do you remember what size the Grip Puppies you used are? Looks like a good way to go.

  9. #34
    Mod Maniac ataDude's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by retread View Post
    Do you remember what size the Grip Puppies you used are? Looks like a good way to go.
    Unfortunately, no. I've had them for 3-4 years - originally bought for an ST-1300.

    Sorry.

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    There are two kinds of people: (1) those who can read, reason and apply the experiences of others; and (2) those who just have to pee on the electric fence. ataDude, 2009

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  10. #35
    Mod Maniac ataDude's Avatar
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    Default Kewl Metal's Bars

    I just installed the Kewl Metal bar set, including the black billet center piece with silver web. This thing is a work of art!

    The install took about three hours... that included a half a pack of Pall Malls Light 100s and three or four sit-down water breaks. It could probably be done in an hour and a half to two hours... but that wouldn't be fun for me.

    On a scale of 1 - 10 (10 being most difficult) this is a "5" installation. Most of the time is used in removing the stock stuff ... just like a 1" riser install. The instructions were clear and concise but even so, I had some trouble in removing and reinstalling the plastic key trim. Sometimes I don't read as thoroughly as I should.

    I also used the 5" rise handlebars from Kewl Metal. I was hoping for at least two inches of pull-back and I got it plus a little. The riding position is more upright but not overtly so... just enough for the elbows to slightly bend. For me, this pull-back was very necessary to eliminate the "ax-in-the-shoulder-blades" which usually started after about 150 miles.

    Update: I also bought the 7" bars to see the difference. I like the 7" ones even better!

    One thing was missing... the stock plastic switch assemblies (both clutch and throttle sides) have a round protrusion on the inside that mate to holes in the stock handlebars. The new bars do not have those alignment holes. You have two choices... drill the holes (one on each side) or grind the plastic protrusion down. I did the latter. You can do either... don't gripe at me.... I'm lazy... and I'm fully cognizant of what I did. I may go back and "pin" the throttle side for safety sake. The clutch side assembly, however, is not connected to the grip... I used HT RTV to reinstall the grip.

    IMPORTANT UPDATE: Do NOT grind the plastic protrusion off on the throttle side switch assembly like I mentioned above.... I suggest you drill the hole in the handlebars to match your final mounting location. After further testing today, the entire switch assembly and throttle could slide slide off the bar with enough force... like a high-G curve where you really push it. As Honda says, "Stupid hurts." I wound up opening the switch assembly, marking an appropriate spot, and drilling/tapping a small hidden hole for a "stop bolt" that the assembly will slide against... and stop.

    The existing tapped mounting holes on the both sides of the billet center piece were re-tapped by me to 1/4"x20 threads for use of the RAM mount balls. Unfortunately, I only had one 1/4" RAM ball but several 3/8" RAM balls. The Valentine One radar detector is mounted on the right. The GPS will be on the left once I get another RAM ball or three. There are also tapped holes on the bottom of the billet piece for more goodies.

    The only casualty of the day was my left Grip Puppy. I accidentally ripped it right down the middle when removing the left grip.

    Finally, the existing wiring loom is plenty long enough on both sides. The clutch hydraulic line is long enough as well. I did, however, remove the throttle cables from a small frame clip to allow more "slop" for them.

    Would I do it again? You can bet your bippy (click here for bippy definition) I would!





    Last edited by ataDude; 10-29-2008 at 01:58 PM.
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    There are two kinds of people: (1) those who can read, reason and apply the experiences of others; and (2) those who just have to pee on the electric fence. ataDude, 2009

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  11. #36
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    Looks nice to say the least.

    I assume that you could get more pullback - if needed - if you rotated the bars more?

    Are you saying that your hands are 2+ inches further back than stock?

    I assume there is more rise than stock - if so - how much?

    Any interference with the view in the mirrors?

    Thanks,

    Pete

  12. #37
    Mod Maniac ataDude's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ptoemmes View Post
    Looks nice to say the least.
    Thanks but thank Mad Matt and Big Joe for that!

    I assume that you could get more pullback - if needed - if you rotated the bars more?
    Yes, sir, a bit but... they also have 7" rise bars, also. If you're looking for more than about 2" back, I'd go with the 7" bars.

    Are you saying that your hands are 2+ inches further back than stock?
    Yes, sir!

    I assume there is more rise than stock - if so - how much?
    They're called 5" rise bars but I suspect they're more like 3-4" up and 2" back the way I have them set. Unfortunately, I didn't measure them.

    Any interference with the view in the mirrors?
    No, sir. I don't think the 7" will cause a problem, either. There is plenty of room to see.

    UPDATE: I bought the 7" bars just to compare. I like them better. The throttle cables are a little tight in a full right turn but not enough to cause problems. I removed the BRP 1" riser for a net gain of 1"with these bars.

    Thanks,

    Pete
    No problem.
    Last edited by ataDude; 08-18-2008 at 11:49 AM.
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    There are two kinds of people: (1) those who can read, reason and apply the experiences of others; and (2) those who just have to pee on the electric fence. ataDude, 2009

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  13. #38
    Mod Maniac ataDude's Avatar
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    Exclamation Corbin seat.....

    My opinions:

    THE GOOD


    The seats come very well packed in a very large box with extensive molded foam surrounding all of the pieces. I think it would be next to impossible for the shipping companies to damage the product in transit.

    As usual, the leather upholstery and overall appearance are excellent. The seat makes striking statements... "LEATHER" and "EXPENSIVE". And, it seems comfortable although I won't be able to test / ride until Saturday.

    The foam <used on these seats> appears to be somewhat different from that used on the five or six Corbin seats I've had in the past (I still have one on the Valkyrie). It seems to be a little softer, a little more compliant.

    The backrest (I only ordered one) seems to be what I was looking for to provide some support for my beat-up back. <<If not, I'll go to my "stock" of older Corbin backrests and find one that does the job >> It is adjustable (tilt forward/backward, but not up/down) with an Allen-head set screw. Combined with the Kewl Metal handlebar setup, I think the ride position and comfort will allow for extended rides without too many complaints.

    The rear seat bolted right up without problems except for one minor adjustment to the latch pin. The transfer of the rear seat passenger sensor from the stock to the Corbin was easy. See the next section for the front seat.

    I did not hook up the electric seat heater, yet. It will be a simple wiring job once the left panel is removed... I already have a fused connection waiting for it in the proper place. I just didn't have the time, today, to remove the panel and finish wiring it. For those who are not familiar with the Corbin heated seat, it has a built-in switch embedded in the seat's left side.

    The step-by-step printed installation instructions were adequate.

    THE BAD

    The four-page step-by-step instructions' pictures were not good... appeared to be copies of copies... making it difficult to view the details. You'd think that for $900+, a nice printed (color?) set of instructions would be provided. However, a good imagination helps.

    The front seat's alignment was difficult, at best. The two elongated holes/slots used for the main mounting (at the rear of the seat) were all-the-way forward on one, and all-the-way rearward on the other... with no reserve adjustment available. In other words, I was at the absolute limits for installation without pulling out the die grinder and performing a little "surgery". I can see now why Lamont had a difficult time with his install. See http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...ead.php?t=5776

    As others have already said, forget about re-installing the stock hydraulic seat riser... it is strong enough to torque the seat out of alignment (once you get it there) by 1/4 - 3/8". I gave it three attempts... then taped the riser to the stock seat for box storage.

    THE UGLY

    I have been an avid Corbin fan for a while now, BUT... if I ever opt for another Corbin product, I will order it from a dealer to avoid having to deal directly with Corbin. When I called Corbin, I was immediately asked whether I was a "dealer" or a "rider" before they transferred the calls. What's with that? Are there different / higher priorities for dealers or...?

    I hope dealers get better attention and information than I and some others here received... read on. See http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...in+seat+owners for more information. You can draw your own conclusions...some good reports, some bad. It's sporadic, at best.

    The Corbin "factory" is in California... "rider" customer service apparently is on the east coast... four time zones apart. When you call, the c/s rep has to contact the factory (by phone or email) and wait for a reply. In my case, I had two excellent c/s reps (thanks J.R. and Sergio!) to help but... they were at the mercy of the factory in terms of timely and accurate information. On at least two occasions, it appeared that the factory reps actually reported incorrect information. On another, the c/s rep could not even get a call back from the "factory" until the next afternoon.

    In my opinion, if you have to order a seat, take the time-frame they tell you and add about three weeks to the estimated receipt time. In other words, based on my experience, if they say "five weeks", expect eight weeks and then you won't be disappointed... you might even be pleasantly surprised. Just to be safe, don't plan any trips based on the original date.

    My payment was deducted from my credit card when the order was placed... not when the seat was complete or shipped. That's a little unusual for a company this size.

    In addition, cash or credit refunds are not provided under any circumstances, according to the "invoice" I received with the seat... exactly eight weeks from order.






    Last edited by ataDude; 02-26-2009 at 07:05 PM.
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    There are two kinds of people: (1) those who can read, reason and apply the experiences of others; and (2) those who just have to pee on the electric fence. ataDude, 2009

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  14. #39
    Very Helpful Member bjt's Avatar
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    Not sure how they did things in the past but Corbin is obviously dropping the ball in all aspects of the seat. Poor or erratic fit (DaddyDarko said his went on just fine), customer service is not efficient, long or misrepresented shipping times. Though the seat looks great installed on your Spyder, your report, along with the price, has virtually eliminated Corbin from my 'wanted mods' list.
    Former Happy Spyder Owner
    Just decided it was time to move onto other things.

  15. #40
    SpyderLovers Founder Lamonster's Avatar
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    I think you may have passed me in mods Bro. Spyder looks great.

  16. #41
    Registered Users Twodog185's Avatar
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    I have yet to see a pic of soomebody sitting on the seat. It appears the backrest is too far back to be useful while riding.
    Happy Owner
    Chances are the referenced post is positive in nature, may result in a solution, alteration, modification, or highlights an extraordinary event or ride, that's worth posting.

  17. #42
    Mod Maniac ataDude's Avatar
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    Smile Supertrapps...

    ... If you haven't figured it out yet, I like to "piddle" as much as ride.

    I just finished the install of a 4" Supertrapp black muffler (stock # 449-2218) using the Magic Man elbow pipe. I found only one black Supertrapp with a 2.25" inlet that would work... and it's touted as a "universal" and for a car. If you're not familiar with how this thing muffles, see http://www.supertrapp.com/technology/index.asp

    Summit Racing was the supplier, the price was right ($141 including shipping), and the shipping was very fast. The same muffler is also available in polished stainless if that rings your bell. See http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

    Although the pipe inlet is the right size for the Magic Man stainless elbow pipe, I had to fabricate a "hanger" from 1/8" x 1" mild steel. The one I made was about 5.5" long with the two drilled holes on 4.5" centers. You can see it in the pics. I opted not to make a stainless strap hanger as it would scratch the black finish without also incorporating a heat-resistant rubber backing. I also opted not to weld the hanger on "just because".

    I first removed the sound dampener tube from the muffler body by removing the two allen-head screws at the rear of the muffler. Because this was not a motorcycle-specific muffler, I had to drill a 3/8" hole through the wall of the exhaust about 11.75" from the rear edge to attach the hanger. That's just in front of the inner perf'd tube with the ceramic packing.

    I then inserted a 3/8" x 2" carriage-head bolt from the inside and used stainless washers and a stainess nut on the outside of the muffler body to cinch it up tight. Another stainless nut and washer completes the hanger attachment to the muffler. I used a liberal dose of Loc-Tite on these two nuts... I really don't want the thing to come apart at speed and "torpedo" someone following me.

    The Supertrapp uses a series of discs to "tune" the exhaust... more discs means more noise, less back pressure and more horsepower. Fewer discs mean less noise, more back pressure and more torque. I started at six discs (they provide 12), worked my way "up" and "down" from a noise perspective... settled for seven. With seven discs, the sound at full throttle is a little louder than a Hindle but quieter than a Micron. UPDATE: I changed back to five discs... seven was a little loud at WOT.

    The provided stock end-cap just yells "cheesy". I bought the optional aluminum Supertrapp end-cap ... I looked for a "Snuff-R-Not" (an adjustable end-cap by White Brothers), but they're no longer made. I also painted the Magic Man elbow pipe with flat black, 1200* high temperature paint.

    Performance appears better but will find out this weekend when I compare it to a highly modified Suzuki DL1000 ridden by one member of my small riding group. It can barely beat me in a 1/4 mile (5+/- lengths) with any of the stock, Hindle or Micron.

    Now, if you want LOUD, don't put the end-cap or discs on... it is rather extreme due to the muffler's shortness... more like insane, actually.

    The entire mod/drill/cut/grind/polish/paint/mount job took about three hours.

    Note that I left "stuff" on the garage floor this time just for draboo.









    Last edited by ataDude; 10-29-2008 at 02:01 PM.
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    There are two kinds of people: (1) those who can read, reason and apply the experiences of others; and (2) those who just have to pee on the electric fence. ataDude, 2009

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  18. #43
    Very Helpful Member bjt's Avatar
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    That exhaust looks sharp ataDude!
    Former Happy Spyder Owner
    Just decided it was time to move onto other things.

  19. #44
    Registered Users pphantom538's Avatar
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    Like the muffler. Any possibiltiy of a sound or utube file?

  20. #45
    Mod Maniac ataDude's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pphantom538 View Post
    Like the muffler. Any possibiltiy of a sound or utube file?
    Sorry, but I do not have a way to do that. But... if you've heard one Trapp, you've heard them all.

    I really want to see what it does for performance... this weekend.
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    There are two kinds of people: (1) those who can read, reason and apply the experiences of others; and (2) those who just have to pee on the electric fence. ataDude, 2009

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  21. #46
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    IMO,that is the best looking exhaust I ve seen yet on a Spyder,especially after the high temp paint on the elbow.

    side note:Is that a speck of dust I see on the garage floor?? LOL

  22. #47
    Mod Maniac ataDude's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by draboo View Post


    IMO,that is the best looking exhaust I ve seen yet on a Spyder,especially after the high temp paint on the elbow.

    side note:Is that a speck of dust I see on the garage floor?? LOL
    Thanks. Air compressors = good. You should see the rest of the garage, though.

    Update on the pipe... I originally painted the pipe with the can attached... no big deal, right... a little bit of tape and....

    Well, as I cleaned the pipe and muffler with spray brake cleaner, the paint on the muffler just ran off... not too good.

    I repainted both with 900* paint and, shazammmmm.... by the time I got to coffee last night with the Crazies (small bike riding group), the paint had already blistered on parts of both the pipe and can.

    Back to the drawing board... will strip and repaint it with 1200* flat black tomorrow. The new end cap should be here today.

    I do like the looks and the sound... mild at idle << at least not embarrassingly loud >> and a nice, somewhat loud growl at throttle (with six discs).... not too bad on the freeway, either.

    If I can get the paint right, this may be a keeper.

    Last edited by ataDude; 07-30-2008 at 11:39 AM.
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    There are two kinds of people: (1) those who can read, reason and apply the experiences of others; and (2) those who just have to pee on the electric fence. ataDude, 2009

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  23. #48
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    Since you have had your lights mounted on the suspension arms for some time now, have you had any problems with the vibration causing the bulbs to fail?

  24. #49
    Mod Maniac ataDude's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BRPjunkie View Post
    Since you have had your lights mounted on the suspension arms for some time now, have you had any problems with the vibration causing the bulbs to fail?
    Not really... had to replace a bulb on the left one but that was immediately after beating on it while tinkering. I've run lights on the unsprung parts of other bikes, too, and never had those problems (i.e., lights on the lower fork tubes of an ST-1300).

    I did finally come up with a low-tech solution to keeping the light body in place... it would be pointed higher after a spirited ride. A small glob of RTV (not where you can see it) holds it down just fine and... it's not permanent.

    Update: I had to replace one that took a rock right in the lens. That could also happen to any light, any mount, including the headlights.

    .
    Last edited by ataDude; 02-02-2009 at 05:33 PM.
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    There are two kinds of people: (1) those who can read, reason and apply the experiences of others; and (2) those who just have to pee on the electric fence. ataDude, 2009

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  25. #50
    SpyderLovers Founder Lamonster's Avatar
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    Do you have a part number for this throttle lock?

    Quote Originally Posted by ataDude View Post
    This is a standard Yamaha-fit throttle lock carved down to fit the Spyder. The Spyder's throttle sleeve has a ridge under the rubber which also must be filed off. I may install an AudioVox cruise unit later... none of these mods inflicts any permanent changes which are meaningful.

    Did I say that I dislike the "universal" throttle locks with the ugly (IMHO) bar running across the top in plain view?

    The Grip Puppies assist in softening and enlarging the grips for comfort. All were "in stock" from other bike mods. I'll use these until I decide what to do for heated grips. They are, however, a "bear" to install even using soap and water.


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