Now mine....

[ataDude]

Accessory wiring:

To ensure that I didn't make the computer nannies mad, I ran an entirely new set of circuits (front to back) from the battery, through a relay, to a 30-amp Blue Sea fuse block mounted in the front compartment. The relay is activated by fuse three in the Spyder's standard front fuse block... therefore, all of my new circuits are on only when the ignition is on. An advantage to using fuse #3 is a built-in 15 second delay after the ignition is switched off.

As with all of these mods, I had the parts already "in stock" from other past bike projects. The Blue Sea box accommodates six fused circuits and six ground points. I'm only using three at this point... the Corbin heated seat will make four. All handlebar stuff (V1, GPS, etc) are low amperage and running on one circuit.

All wiring is run through plastic wiring looms available almost everywhere. I buy the looms from JC Whitney in boxes containing 100' each. :



Update: If I were to do this again, I'd mount the Blue Sea box not IN the front box but immediately behind it. Reason - if the luggage "box" needs to be removed, the "though-the-firewall" wiring complicates matters tremendously.
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[ataDude]

These are Pilot 55w ultra-blue (very bright) driving lights I had "in stock" from other bike projects.... they are about 3-4 years old. You may be able to find them at Pep Boys, AutoZone, etc. I used these instead of others because the plastic finish exactly matches the plastic trim / guards on the front suspension.

The lower plastic light mounts (came with the lights) were reduced in size and re-shaped with a die-grinder. Mounting them on the bike required drilling one 1/4" hole (each side) through the plastic suspension guards... which can later be capped off if desired. All mounting hardware and brackets are virtually invisible.

I like the suspension mounts because the "bounce" produces a "modulator" effect without a modulator (I like modulators, BTW).

Update 7/21/2008: The bounce produces more than a modulator effect . Over time, the lights also tend to swivel up on the mounts even though they're as tight as I can get them. More work coming to fix that.

Update 7/30/2008: The low-tech fix? A small glob of RTV between the swivel mount parts. It's not permanent and seems to work fine.

[Rotaxrocket]

Does your driving lights stay on all the time or do you have a switch mounted? Looks great. I will probably mount some on mine. Great idea.......

[ataDude]

Does your driving lights stay on all the time or do you have a switch mounted? Looks great. I will probably mount some on mine. Great idea.......

There's a switch in the black plastic shroud just beneath and to the left of the instrument cluster. Left side is always better for switches and the like as your right hand is busy with the throttle.

[Rotaxrocket]

You are so right......Thanks for the reply.....

[ataDude]

This is a standard Vista Cruise / Yamaha-fit, throttle lock carved down to fit the Spyder. The Spyder's throttle sleeve has a ridge under the rubber which also must be filed off. I may install an AudioVox cruise unit later... none of these mods inflicts any permanent changes which are meaningful.

Did I say that I dislike the "universal" throttle locks with the ugly (IMHO) bar running across the top in plain view?

Installation instructions for the throttle lock are here:
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...7&postcount=51

The Grip Puppies assist in softening and enlarging the grips for comfort. All were "in stock" from other bike mods. I'll use these until I decide what to do for heated grips. They are, however, a "bear" to install even using soap and water.

[blown34]

This is a standard Yamaha-fit throttle lock carved down to fit the Spyder. The Spyder's throttle sleeve has a ridge under the rubber which also must be filed off. I may install an AudioVox cruise unit later... none of these mods inflict permanent changes which are meaningful.

Did I say that I dislike the "universal" throttle locks with the ugly (IMHO) bar running across the top in plain view?

The Grip Puppies assist in softening and enlarging the grips for comfort. All were "in stock" from other bike mods. I'll use these until I decide what to do for heated grips. They are, however, a "bear" to install even using soap and water.

Did you cut the grips shorter?

[ataDude]

Did you cut the grips shorter?

No, sir....just removed the grip while I was installing the throttle lock (had to drill and tap one 6-32 hole) and then reinstalled to fit.

.

[retread]

Do you remember what size the Grip Puppies you used are? Looks like a good way to go.

[ataDude]

Do you remember what size the Grip Puppies you used are? Looks like a good way to go.

Unfortunately, no. I've had them for 3-4 years - originally bought for an ST-1300.

Sorry.

.

[Lamonster]

Do you have a part number for this throttle lock?

This is a standard Yamaha-fit throttle lock carved down to fit the Spyder. The Spyder's throttle sleeve has a ridge under the rubber which also must be filed off. I may install an AudioVox cruise unit later... none of these mods inflicts any permanent changes which are meaningful.

Did I say that I dislike the "universal" throttle locks with the ugly (IMHO) bar running across the top in plain view?

The Grip Puppies assist in softening and enlarging the grips for comfort. All were "in stock" from other bike mods. I'll use these until I decide what to do for heated grips. They are, however, a "bear" to install even using soap and water.

[ataDude]

Do you have a part number for this throttle lock?

I had it for a while but this is it:

http://www.casporttouring.com/store/...e=Vista-Cruise

They've gone up a bit. I think I paid about $15 in 2003/2004.

How to install:
(1) Use a Dremel (or similar) to cut off the positioning prongs... they don't work on the Spyder.
(2) Remove the right rubber grip ... so you can get a clean shot at drilling later.
(3) File, or grind, off the small ridge molded into the throttle sleeve that's next to the switch assembly.
(4) Install the lock on the throttle sleeve next to the plastic switch assembly box.
(5) Adjust it so it functions correctly... locks when down, slips when up.
(6) PUT IT IN THE LOCKED POSITION to center it up before drilling.
(7) Drill a small hole through the both the lock and the switch box casing side. <The switch casing is about 1/8" thick>. Mark your drill bit with tape so you don't drill too deep into the throttle cables.
(8) Either tap, or use a very short, self-tapping screw to secure. If you use one too long, you can interfere with the throttle operation.
(9) Before you put the grip on, check for proper functioning.
(10) Reinstall grip placing the large plastic washer that came with the throttle lock between the throttle lock and the grip... I used RTV to secure the grip. Leave a little clearance (1/32") between the throttle lock and the grip flange. << Lamont, I know you don't need these instructions but they could help someone else >>

See below for where to drill the small hole mentioned in (7) above (at the bottom... barely visible - which is the idea).



The Audiovox died, huh? Any clue on that?

.

[ataDude]

... if you haven't ordered your axle caps yet, you're missing a good trim piece.

As others have already stated, they're standard on the newer roadsters being built. The MSRP: A total of $7 and change including tax. Part numbers 705501022 and 705501081 as was mentioned in another thread by the pioneer. Thanks!

I suggest you also dab a little RTV on the inner stems so you don't lose them on a spirited ride.

[ataDude]

... Well, those of you who bought Grip Puppies because of me, uh, well, uh....

I accidentally ran across a new grip while ordering stuff for my grip heaters. They are the Sunline Grand Touring grips from California Sport Touring. I used these over the heating elements and I love them. Not too hard, not too soft... shaped just right! $11. (I had previously lost one of the stock grip end-caps... I didn't need to replace it due to these closed-end grips)



Heat-Troller:


This will be the third install of the Symtec Grip Heaters, also from CA Sport Touring. They're about $30. Look closely at the above pic and you can see the wiring exiting from under the grip and tied to the existing cables/wires.

I prefer an infinitely-variable control to an on-off switch. So... as with the past installations, I chose Heat-Troller - a solid state device. It controls the voltage to the grips by pulsing it - not by "burning off" the excess in a resistor. The Heat-Troller is about $55 from the same place.


Use caution concerning other cheaper, non-solid-state controllers... they're variable resistors which get really hot!

BTW, I've never liked the low/off/high switches... the grips, when in use, were always too cool or too hot.

I've never had problems with either part of this set up. However, I suggest you use HIGH TEMP RTV to put the grips back on over the heating elements.




<< Disclaimer: I'm not associated with CST but wish I was on commission. >>

Did you notice that the Spyder is yellow this week?
.

[katnapper]

... if you haven't ordered your axle caps yet, you're missing a good trim piece.

As others have already stated, they're standard on the newer roadsters being built. The MSRP: A total of $7 and change including tax. Part numbers 705501022 and 705501081 as was mentioned in another thread by the pioneer. Thanks!

Ok, got the part numbers but where do I get them?

[Spyderman62]

The Grip Puppies assist in softening and enlarging the grips for comfort. All were "in stock" from other bike mods. I'll use these until I decide what to do for heated grips. They are, however, a "bear" to install even using soap and water.

The nest time you want to install a set of Grip Puppies, try using compressed air. Simply put the nozzle in the open end while pushing the other end onto the existing grip. Then squeeze the remainder of the grip around the nozzle, and squeeze trigger to allow air to flow - lots of air to flow. The air blast will swell the grip puppy and allow you to push it onto the existing grip. Hope this helps.

[ataDude]

...try using compressed air....

Thanks.

.

[ataDude]

... I finally found a black, very high-temp paint/ceramic coating that works... that won't burn off of the exhaust elbow or Supertrapp muffler. O'Reilly Auto Parts has it in my area as well as Summit Racing online.



Update 3/2009: I found a better solution. Works well, applies evenly and produces a better result that lasts longer:

[bjt]

Glad you found that. I was going to post a similar product I saw in the Motosports catalog I just got. DEI silicone coating. Its listed as good for up to 1500 degrees.

[ataDude]

... I just installed "araneae"...Bryan's... highway peg mount. Very easy to install (15 minutes) and will serve it's purposes well. Contact "araneae" on this forum for his current price. The "stubs" that extend out to the side, BTW, were already threaded 1/2" x 20 tpi. Bryan does provide another metric threaded option, I think.

I spent an hour or so browsing the local Harley mega-dealership for options. I informed the parts guy what I was making and he was more than helpful to someone without a HD... great service!

These HD accessories are what I used for my pegs:

1. 34023-08 HD Black billet shift and brake lever SET, MSRP $129.95; and
2. 34690-08 HD Diamond Black Shifter Pegs, MSRP 16.95 each, times two.

As always, I wanted something just a little different and BLACK. Sooner or later, there will be NO silver on my tricycle.

I wouldn't want to stand on these but... for intermittent change of feet position, these work well... plus they look just downright cool.

As an added "plus", they are locked in place two ways... (1) 1/2"x20 jam nuts on the back sides and (2) pinch bolts built into the levers. I did have to tap the large HD lever holes to match Bryan's mounts... that's no big deal IF you have the 1/2"x20 tap.

My lower leg position is relatively straight-up (knees at a 90* angle) with my feet on the new pegs.

[Roaddog2]

This is a standard Vista Cruise / Yamaha-fit, throttle lock carved down to fit the Spyder. The Spyder's throttle sleeve has a ridge under the rubber which also must be filed off. I may install an AudioVox cruise unit later... none of these mods inflicts any permanent changes which are meaningful.

Did I say that I dislike the "universal" throttle locks with the ugly (IMHO) bar running across the top in plain view?

Installation instructions for the throttle lock are here:
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...7&postcount=51

The Grip Puppies assist in softening and enlarging the grips for comfort. All were "in stock" from other bike mods. I'll use these until I decide what to do for heated grips. They are, however, a "bear" to install even using soap and water.

[bjt]

This is a standard Vista Cruise / Yamaha-fit, throttle lock carved down to fit the Spyder. The Spyder's throttle sleeve has a ridge under the rubber which also must be filed off. I may install an AudioVox cruise unit later... none of these mods inflicts any permanent changes which are meaningful.

Did I say that I dislike the "universal" throttle locks with the ugly (IMHO) bar running across the top in plain view?

Installation instructions for the throttle lock are here:
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...7&postcount=51

The Grip Puppies assist in softening and enlarging the grips for comfort. All were "in stock" from other bike mods. I'll use these until I decide what to do for heated grips. They are, however, a "bear" to install even using soap and water.

I finally got this same throttle lock put on my Spyder the other day. Took a little bit of futzing around to get to where I think it works okay. I may still need some tweaking to the mount as the one screw in the bottom seems to force it to lean into the grip. As far as locking the throttle and ease of use, its great. If I don't have the mount dialed in by the time we meet in Oklahoma, maybe you can give me some tips.

[ataDude]

bjt... the key is to drill it only after you have it in the locked position...

I finally got this same throttle lock put on my Spyder the other day. Took a little bit of futzing around to get to where I think it works okay. I may still need some tweaking to the mount as the one screw in the bottom seems to force it to lean into the grip. As far as locking the throttle and ease of use, its great. If I don't have the mount dialed in by the time we meet in Oklahoma, maybe you can give me some tips.

[bjt]

Thanks, I think I did that. If not, its too late now as I have the hole drilled. Probably wouldn't be too good if I ended up with the Vista Cruise or my right control module looking like swiss cheese trying to get it 100%. I'm thinking of finding a piece of the 3M VHB tape and affixing it to the lower, stationary portion of the Vista Cruise and to the right controls. I think that'll do what I think I need. I'll see how it goes during the next few weeks as is. Right now, I have totally free throttle motion when the Vista Cruise is unlocked and it appears to hold the throttle rock solid when locked. I'll find out better when we take our first long trip of the season tomorrow.

ps. I don't know how many of these they make for different bikes and how different each one is but it appears that the one Vista Cruise they had at the dealership is the same one you had sitting in your garage... Looks to me like they could make a Spyder specific one by just making that tab with the screw mount longer to fit the Spyder's controls. There is a screw on the bottom of the controls that the tab could use.

[zzneonzz]

I just installed the vista cruise latnight on my Spyder. If you have the ISO/Flame Kuryakyn grips have the dremel handy. To get it to fit clush against the control mechanism you have to sand out part of the inner circle to fit over the large lip at the end of the grip. Works great though now that its complete took about 45 minutes to install.